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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-06-2010, 06:14 PM
e39BMW e39BMW is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 BMW 540i
Battery light on, New battery, alternator is good

last night I came home from las vegas and the car had no red battery light on and everything worked perfectly. Today i went to pepboys to get some parts and once i restarted the car, the red battery light came on. At home i took out the alternator and drove it to pepboys to get tested and it passed all the tests. Cleaned everything off, put it back in the car and red light is still on. Then i did the OBC voltage test and at idle it was 14.4v (seems a little bit too high) and while reving at 4K it was 14.6v
The battery is less then 5 month old.

What could be the problem?
thanks
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  #2  
Old 07-06-2010, 09:12 PM
Spokane540ia Spokane540ia is offline
I need to replace what?
Location: Spokane, Wa
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e39BMW View Post
last night I came home from las vegas and the car had no red battery light on and everything worked perfectly. Today i went to pepboys to get some parts and once i restarted the car, the red battery light came on. At home i took out the alternator and drove it to pepboys to get tested and it passed all the tests. Cleaned everything off, put it back in the car and red light is still on. Then i did the OBC voltage test and at idle it was 14.4v (seems a little bit too high) and while reving at 4K it was 14.6v
The battery is less then 5 month old.

What could be the problem?
thanks
Maybe it will take a few sessions for your light to turn off.

Realize the "Battery Light" is all about the charging system- not about your battery. When you have a RED Battery light means your alternator charging system is not working right. You're running 14.4 volts- sounds like you alternator is fine, maybe you just need to run your engine a few more times to clear the code.

Clean off your battery posts once again. Tighten. Re post if you still have problems.
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  #3  
Old 07-06-2010, 09:26 PM
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ganesht ganesht is offline
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i had a similar problem were i was getting 14v at the engine but was only getting 11.5 at the battery. after a ton of hunting around i found that the wire from my starter to the battery was partially corroded

on the i6 motors the pos cable goes from the alt to the jump point to the starter then through the firewall to the batt.
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Old 07-06-2010, 09:35 PM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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+1. Check the wires that mount to the clamp that attaches to the positive post on the battery. On most cars (not sure on BMW) one of those wires is the "S" wire or sensor wire that feeds back to the alternator the battery voltage. If that is broken or not connected, the "batt" light will come on. A friend had this very issue on another make car...the wire was molded into the positive clamp, and unless you looked closely, it looked like it was still attached....it was not. He stripped the wire, and soldered on a couple more inches of wire, crimped on a ring mount, and bolted to the clamp, no more "batt" light.
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  #5  
Old 07-07-2010, 06:51 PM
e39BMW e39BMW is offline
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Problem fixed. It turned out that the Fuse 15 was blown.
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Old 07-07-2010, 07:10 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e39BMW View Post
Problem fixed. It turned out that the Fuse 15 was blown.
You might want to check oil level sensor:
http://www.bba-reman.com/content.asp...s_and_problems
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Old 07-07-2010, 11:25 PM
e39BMW e39BMW is offline
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why? how would that help?
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Old 07-08-2010, 12:38 PM
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ganesht ganesht is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e39BMW View Post
why? how would that help?
Quote:
-No transmission range display in the instrument cluster.
-Charge indicator lamp can flicker or it is permanently on.
-Fuse 15 (E39) is blown.

This can be due to a faulty oil level switch which can cause the fuse to blow. If this happens a loss of input to EWS from the Transmission Range Switch can occur.
.
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