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  #1  
Old 11-26-2003, 10:37 PM
Scott ZHP's Avatar
Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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Thumbs up Bixenon retrofit - Full DIY (finally)!

See postings below for the full DIY with photos; sorry for the delay.

So my ZHP didn't come with bixenon lights and, after driving my wife's X5, I really wanted them. I've spent quite a bit of time and energy figuring out how to retrofit them - and get the bixenon shutters to actuate. To make a long story short, they are *finally* working.

I (we) owe a great deal of thanks to Bluer1. Without Cody's help mapping the facelifted LCM/light module pinouts - not to mention the endless photos and questions - I'd still be in the dark.

I have quite a bit of info to post, but to make a long story short, Bluer1/Cody and I have figured out how to retrofit working bixenon lights into cars originally equipped with H7 halogens. Yes, lots of folks have installed bixenon lights and coded the xenon lows to work, but getting the high beam/aka bixenon function to work has been elusive.

I will post a DIY with part numbers and photos when I get time, but all you need are ~$30 worth of parts and an hour or two of labor. The parts include a pair of plugs for the bixenon shutter sockets on the ballasts (61 13 8 365 348), a pair of contact leads for the same (61 13 0 006 665), 20 feet of wire, a 12V relay, (and a diode and a fuse if you are really anal). The halogen LCM/light control module is retained.

In a nutshell: After coding for bixenons, pushing the highbeam stalk forward sends +12v to pins 2/36 on the light module (pin 2 is left highbeam shutter, pin 36 is right). Connect pins 2/36 of the LCM to the center pin of the bixenon shutter plugs via a relay. The bixenon shutter is grounded through the lowbeam/xenon light wiring, so there is no need to route a seperate ground to the light (but you need one for the relay).

Thats it. I got mine working tonight, I just need to tidy up the wiring and find an inconspicous home for the relay.

--Scott
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Last edited by Scott ZHP; 12-28-2003 at 11:10 AM.
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2003, 08:17 AM
Jupiter19 Jupiter19 is offline
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I just installed my bixenon's a couple of weeks ago, can't wait for the high beams to work Thanks for making up a DIY for it
  #3  
Old 11-27-2003, 10:09 AM
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yamato yamato is offline
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The parts are only ~$30?? It is really a good deal!! I would consider installing one more set of xenons on my roof!!
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  #4  
Old 11-27-2003, 11:29 AM
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SergioK SergioK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamato
The parts are only ~$30?? It is really a good deal!! I would consider installing one more set of xenons on my roof!!
I think it was $30 to get the highbeam portion of the bi-xenons to work. Not sure how much it costs to purchase the bi-xenons and the cooresponding ballasts but it's definitely more than $30!
  #5  
Old 11-27-2003, 05:32 PM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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The figure quoted is only for the parts required to activate the bixenon shutters. Obviously the lights are substantially more.

So far this is what I have spent to retrofit the lights:

Left side bixenon: $250, eBay
Right side bixenon: $200, eBay
Plugs, wiring, relays: $30 Circle BMW
Autolevel sensors/brackets: $162 Circle BMW
Coding: $43 Daniels BMW
Old Speckled Hen Ale $34 Shangys Beer Heaven

I bought a used Bixenon LCM just in case, (eBay, $35), I'll probably just relist that as I ended up not needing it.

Total: $719.
  #6  
Old 11-27-2003, 10:59 PM
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ItchyNScratchy ItchyNScratchy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott ZHP
So my ZHP didn't come with bixenon lights and, after driving my wife's X5, I really wanted them. I've spent quite a bit of time and energy figuring out how to retrofit them - and get the bixenon shutters to actuate. To make a long story short, they are *finally* working.

I (we) owe a great deal of thanks to Bluer1. Without Cody's help mapping the facelifted LCM/light module pinouts - not to mention the endless photos and questions - I'd still be in the dark.

I have quite a bit of info to post, but to make a long story short, Bluer1/Cody and I have figured out how to retrofit working bixenon lights into cars originally equipped with H7 halogens. Yes, lots of folks have installed bixenon lights and coded the xenon lows to work, but getting the high beam/aka bixenon function to work has been elusive.

I will post a DIY with part numbers and photos when I get time, but all you need are ~$30 worth of parts and an hour or two of labor. The parts include a pair of plugs for the bixenon shutter sockets on the ballasts (61 13 8 365 348), a pair of contact leads for the same (61 13 0 006 665), 20 feet of wire, a 12V relay, (and a diode and a fuse if you are really anal). The halogen LCM/light control module is retained.

In a nutshell: After coding for bixenons, pushing the highbeam stalk forward sends +12v to pins 2/36 on the light module (pin 2 is left highbeam shutter, pin 36 is right). Connect pins 2/36 of the LCM to the center pin of the bixenon shutter plugs via a relay. The bixenon shutter is grounded through the lowbeam/xenon light wiring, so there is no need to route a seperate ground to the light (but you need one for the relay).

Thats it. I got mine working tonight, I just need to tidy up the wiring and find an inconspicous home for the relay.

--Scott

Wow Scott,

Congrats! I know how long and hard you worked on getting the Bi Xenon shutter to open up! Can't wait for the DIY....hopefully even someone that's wire-phobic like myself can accomplish this!

Take care
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2003, 12:45 PM
mickey513 mickey513 is offline
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Please Post the DIY SOON. You are the first person I seen to successfully retrofit bi-xenon.
  #8  
Old 11-29-2003, 09:54 AM
bluer1 bluer1 is offline
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Awesome, Scott! Glad to be of help - don't discount yourself though, you did all the work. I just probed around with a meter and passed along some info I'd collected.

I noticed you even put the little "electrocution" stickers on there!
  #9  
Old 11-29-2003, 05:34 PM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer1
I noticed you even put the little "electrocution" stickers on there!
Yeah, how sad is that. I really wanted the OEM look though: 63 12 8 362 473 ($2.59 ea) is the part# for anyone interested. The labels were backordered too, or I would have had this done a week sooner...

I need to snap a few more photos and "production-ize" the wiring at the LCM, and I'll make a full DIY.

--Scott
  #10  
Old 11-30-2003, 07:34 PM
Mike330ZHP Mike330ZHP is offline
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Shangys Beer Heaven over in Allentown is the best. They have everything. A great place to go before a long DIY.
  #11  
Old 12-01-2003, 06:01 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike330ZHP
Shangys Beer Heaven over in Allentown is the best. They have everything. A great place to go before a long DIY.
2000 different beers in stock and a warehouse the size of a football field (no kidding).
  #12  
Old 12-01-2003, 11:33 AM
Jeff_DML Jeff_DML is offline
doh!!!
Location: San Diego
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott ZHP
The figure quoted is only for the parts required to activate the bixenon shutters. Obviously the lights are substantially more.

So far this is what I have spent to retrofit the lights:

Left side bixenon: $250, eBay
Right side bixenon: $200, eBay
Plugs, wiring, relays: $30 Circle BMW
Autolevel sensors/brackets: $162 Circle BMW
Coding: $43 Daniels BMW
Old Speckled Hen Ale $34 Shangys Beer Heaven

I bought a used Bixenon LCM just in case, (eBay, $35), I'll probably just relist that as I ended up not needing it.

Total: $719.
not bad Who was selling it on ebay and why?
  #13  
Old 12-01-2003, 05:44 PM
Scott ZHP's Avatar
Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_DML
not bad Who was selling it on ebay and why?
I didn't know the sellers; I just put in the bids and rode the auctions out.

I asked if they had broken tabs (a universal sign of theft) and both were fine. Actually, one had a cracked tab, but not broken off. The other one was mailed from a dealership address in the original packaging with the part number on the box (?!) I suspect this one was removed from a customer's car at delivery because the lens was slightly scuffed. It looked brand new. I used my old lenses on both (~5mo old but in better shape).

I also think it helped that I bought the left and right in seperate auctions. Buying a pair together is bound to be more expensive.
  #14  
Old 12-07-2003, 09:55 PM
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sp330i sp330i is offline
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Please post your DIY soon

Also, you mentioned Autolevel sensors/brackets. Did you actually install the sensor in the rear of the car that autolevels the lights and better yet, wire them successfully to the car? If not, what was the bracket for?
  #15  
Old 12-08-2003, 06:52 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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There are two level sensors, one front, one rear. Both on the passenger side (US spec cars). I have not installed the autoleveling parts yet, but it doesn't look like a big deal.

The real challenge will be the wiring. The harness is not available seperately. I'll need to make this. I have a block diagram from the retrofit kit that deciphers the wiring - the sensors talk to the LCM and the LCM talks to the lights, but it looks like a major PITA to fish the harness where it needs to go.

Also, I'm fairly certain the stock (halogen) LCM must be replaced, I dont think it has the circuitry to interprit the signals from to the levelers.

Update: I'm using a generic 12v relay at the moment, but it only has one trigger for the coil (one pin of the LCM controls both shutters). I ordered a handfull of relays from the dealer and the correct contact bushings for the light module. When I get the parts, I'll finalize the install and post photos. Ideally the relay will have two triggers (85, 85A) and two load (87 contacts) and a diode across the coil.

It looks like the SMG relay might fit the bill, it should be here on Friday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sp330i
Also, you mentioned Autolevel sensors/brackets. Did you actually install the sensor in the rear of the car that autolevels the lights and better yet, wire them successfully to the car? If not, what was the bracket for?
  #16  
Old 12-13-2003, 08:15 AM
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sp330i sp330i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott ZHP
I will post a DIY with part numbers and photos when I get time, but all you need are ~$30 worth of parts and an hour or two of labor.
--Scott
Hope you find time for the DIY soon. If you have limited time, concentrating on the connections for the bi-xenon flap would be a big help!

Thanks!
  #17  
Old 12-25-2003, 11:18 AM
aznyeast aznyeast is offline
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Hi Scott, if you ever can find the time. please try to see if you can finish up the diy. Been waiting for it for a while. Thanks
  #18  
Old 12-25-2003, 01:36 PM
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BlackChrome BlackChrome is offline
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Great job retrofitting the bi-Xenon!

May I ask why you didn't order the car with them? It would have saved you more trouble...
  #19  
Old 12-25-2003, 06:26 PM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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Yeah, I know... it's been a while.

I was off most of this week and had some time to play with the wiring install to make it look more "factory". Wife and kids are off to visit the inlaws tomorrow AM; look for the DIY on Friday night or Saturday along with photos.

--Scott

Quote:
Originally Posted by aznyeast
Hi Scott, if you ever can find the time. please try to see if you can finish up the diy. Been waiting for it for a while. Thanks
  #20  
Old 12-28-2003, 09:05 AM
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RKT BMR RKT BMR is offline
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Scott -- any insight/advice on what is involved for a car that already has the older single-mode xenons (i.e. not bi-xenons)?
  #21  
Old 12-28-2003, 09:25 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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Dunno about fitting bixenons to xenon cars. At a minumum, the LCM needs to be replaced (it wont have the right pins to activate the shutter solenoids). This might be possible, but would require extensive research. I have a bixenon LCM (light switch) that I'd sell you for cheap if you want to try it. PM me if interested.

The headlights themselves would be relatively simple to retrofit, just swap the housing innards and the front lens.

Actually, if you dont mind losing your inner flash to pass circuit on the highbeams this could be done pretty easily - just route the high beam +ve lead to the bixenon shutter socket. Should work fine... I might be able to whip up a circuit to keep the flash to pass too. PM me for more detail, I need to think a bit.

The DIY is done and will be posted this afternoon. It took longer to author than to actually do!


Quote:
Originally Posted by RKT BMR
Scott -- any insight/advice on what is involved for a car that already has the older single-mode xenons (i.e. not bi-xenons)?
  #22  
Old 12-28-2003, 10:34 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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Mein Auto: 03 ZHP, 01 X5, 73 MGB
Models: Facelifted E46 with halogen lights fitted as OEM.

Parts:

BMW OEM parts:
61.13.8.365.348 (qty 2) bixenon shutter socket $0.96
61.13.0.006.665 (qty 2) contact bushing for socket $1.68
61.36.8.373.700 (qty 1) relay $7.92
61.13.0.008.998 (qty 1) contact bushing for LCM $1.00
63.12.8.362.473 (qty 2) warning label xenon lights $2.59

The next three part numbers were sourced from Radio Shack:
2701079 (qty 1) 5 amp blade fuse $1.39
2701213 (qty 1) blade fuse holder $2.29
6403039 (qty 2) female disconnect lugs $1.69

The remaining bits were found laying around my garage:
¼ ring terminal for 16 gauge wire, found in toolbox.
Copper crimping lug, see above.
Misc lengths of 16gauge stranded wire (about 20 feet).
Misc diams of heat shring tubing, 2 ft of corrugated wire wrap.
Expoy, Electrical tape, solder, wire ties, double sided tape.
¼-28 chrome plated acorn nut, ¼ star lock washer.

Tools: Various hand tools, (see photo #1). Install time is about 4 hours, depending on your skill level. I’m a novice, you may be able to do it in less time.

First, a legal disclaimer: This DIY assumes you have a *reasonable* level of mechanical aptitude/skill/patience/tools as well as a basic understanding of your vehicles 12 volt electrical system. Please read and understand this text before ordering any parts or dissasembling your vehicle.

The author cannot be held accountable for omissions/inaccuracies in the following text. Proceed at your own risk. If in doubt, seek help (i.e. email/PM me) or have a qualified professional carry out the install. Damage may be caused by improper installation and may void portions of the manufacturer's original warranty. By proceeding, you hereby agree to absolve the author of any and all damages, financial or otherwise. This is an entertainment guide only as a courtesy to the BMW community. If you screw up your car you are on your own. Do not pass go, do not collect $200.

Sorry, but in the litigious world in which we live I have to cover my a$$. Ok, now that’s out of the way, let’s play…

Prepwork:

1. I was after a stealth looking install – I wanted an OEM appearance. Take your time and the dealer will never notice the additional wiring.

2. Remove drivers side under-dash panel (3 Phillips-head screws, 1 twist nut near the pedals , 1 weird push pin at right knee, 2 slide clips under the steering wheel).

3. Remove the trim piece surrounding headlight switch (gently pry it off from the drivers side using a rag around a thin blade screwdriver).

4. Remove the fusebox/relay rack cover under the hood on the drivers side using a ? mm hex key, 5mm maybe? (see photo #2).

Wiring:

The relay leads are as follows:

87 – power output to shutter solenoid.
87 – power output to shutter solenoid. (relay has two pins labeled 87)
30 – power input for the relay
85 – ground lug for relay coil; stud near airbox.
86 - bixenon activation for the relay coil; lead from pin 2 on the LCM


1. Carefully insert the contact bushings into the shutter socket plugs – they only go in one way. (see photo #3). Use a magnifying glass if need be. Cover the leads with heat-shrinkable tubing, leaving about 6 in exposed. Shink the tubing, but don’t melt the wire. Set aside.

2.Solder a 2 ft long 16 gauge lead onto the LCM contact bushing end. This eventually connects to pin 86 on the relay. Cover the solder joint with heat shrink tube and shrink it. The shutters are controlled separately at the LCM, however we’re only using a single relay for both shutters, so for our purposes we only need one lead.

3. Cut the cap off the fuseholder. Insert a 5 amp blade fuse. Epoxy the fuse-holder to the side of the relay with the part number on it (see photo #4). Cut one of the fuseholder leads to length of 4in. Slide heat shrink tube over the lead. Solder a female lug onto the lead. Slide the tube over the solder joint and shrink it. Plug this lug into pin #30 on the relay. Leave the other lead for later.

4. Prepare the remaining relay leads as follows: solder a female lug onto two 8ft lengths of 16 gauge wire. Don’t forget the shrink tube. Connect both of these to pins #87 (the relay has two 87 pins). Solder another female lug onto a 4ft long 16 gauge wire. Connect this to pin 85. You should now have a harness that looks something like photo #4.

5. Set the harness aside. Have a beer.

Install

1. With the dash trim removed, unscrew the Phillips head screw securing the LCM and pull out the light switch module. Wiggle/pull as necessary, it will eventually come out.

2. Release the white clip holding the multi-pin connector to the LCM. Unplug it from the LCM.

3. Set the LCM aside.

4. Gently pry the sides of the LCM multi-pin connecter apart.

5. Slide the blue/brown plugs out of the plastic retainer (see photo #5). NOTE WHICH SIDE GOES WHERE in the connector.

6. Set the retainer aside.

7. CAREFULLY insert the LCM contact bushing into PIN #2 on the blue plug – (see photo #6) – insert ONLY as shown. Double check that it goes to pin #2.

8. Route and wire-tie the contact bushing wire lead into the LCM harness and fish it back into the footwell.

9. Reassemble the blue/brown plugs into the retainer. THEY ONLY GO IN ONE WAY, make sure to match the pin/plugs to the retainer. See photo #5.

10. Plug the retainer into the LCM and snap the white collar over the connector.

11. Install the LCM; waste 10 minutes searching for the screw.

12.Fish the contact lead down into the drivers footwell and out the firewall adjacent to the harness, to the left (see photo #7, little red wire, right side halfway up). Be patient, it will eventually reappear in the relay rack under the hood.

13. Open the hood and remove the fuse box cover on the driver’s side (if you have not done so already).

14. Gently wiggle the plastic tray upward in the relay rack. (see photo #8).

15. Loudly curse the insane Bavarian engineer who designed this !@#$% tray.

16. Locate the lead you just fished from the LCM and tape it to the side of the plastic tray near the front of the car.

17. Retrieve the relay from wherever you have stored it. Tape the 87 and 85 leads leads the entire length to make a cool looking harness.

18. Fish the two 87 leads and the 85 lead under the tray and out the corrugated rubber boot toward the headlights. See photo #9 . I used the nipple underneath the rubber boot, as it was unused on my car.. First cut an X with an exacto knife. Tape the leads to MIG welding wire (or a coathanager), and push them out the nipple. Pull remaning harness through leaving about 6 in to work with. (see photo #10).

19. Plug the sockets into the bixenon shutters on the ballast.

20. Cut the drivers side bixenon lead to length and solder it to one of the 87 leads. (see photo #11). Seal the solder joint with heat shrink tube (you did put the tube on, right?).

21. Remove the air snorkel and set is aside (pry the 3 pins upward and remove the pushpins and the retainers).

22. Insert the other lead 87 into a 2ft section of wire-wrap tubing. (see photo #12).

23. Fish the wire wrap tubing ABOVE the radiator, but underneath the radiator support brace (see photo #13).

24. Secure the wire-wrap tubewith 3 wire-ties into the cutouts on the brace.

25. Reassemble the air snorkel.

26. Cut the passenger side bixenon lead to length and solder it to the other 87 lead; seal the solder joint with shrink tube. (see photo 14).

27. Locate the body jig stud adjacent to the airbox – this will be the ground for the relay. Cut the 85 lead to length and solder a ¼ in round lug; seal the solder joint with heat shrink tube (see photo #15). Secure the lug with a ¼-28 nut and a star washer. Double nut it with a chrome plated acorn nut if you are a detail freak like me.

28. Have another beer and congratulate yourself; as you are nearly done.

29.Untape the LCM lead from the relay rack, trim to length and solder a female lug onto it. Connect this to pin 86 on the relay. This is the +ve lead to the relay coil.

30. Locate the 4 red/white wires crimped together in the fusebox/relay rack. Crimp the lead from the fuseholder (remember that lead?) to these (see photo #16#). I used a copper crimping connector because I had one laying around, but you may be able to just solder them together. Tape the connections (see photo 17).

Testing

31. Get out your multimeter. ( a cheap meter is $10 from Harbor Freight, buy one, it is extremely handy).

32. Set the scale to 20vDC. Connect the ground lead of the meter to the lug near the airbox. DISCONNECT PIN 86 ON THE RELAY and connect it to the +ve lead on the meter.

33. Turn on the meter; it should read 0 volts.
34. Start the car and turn on the headlights.
35. Switch on the highbeams.
36. The meter should read 12 volts.
37. If so, shut off the car. If not, you have a wiring issue. Retrace your connections, especially the ground.
38. Reconnect the LCM lead to pin 86.
39. Repeat steps 33 and 34.
40. Watch in awe as the bixenons operate.
41. Tidy up the leads in the fuse box/relay rack and reinstall cover (see photo #16).
42. Have another beer and admire the install (see photo #18)

Enjoy!
--Scott
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Last edited by Scott ZHP; 12-28-2003 at 10:42 AM.
  #23  
Old 12-28-2003, 10:46 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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  #24  
Old 12-28-2003, 10:56 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
We want the Lion!
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  #25  
Old 12-28-2003, 10:59 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
We want the Lion!
Location: PA, USA
 
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Mein Auto: 03 ZHP, 01 X5, 73 MGB
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