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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #26  
Old 07-16-2010, 09:01 AM
Penguin Penguin is offline
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Anyone found suitable LED replacement bulbs for the rear hatch lights? I also leave the rear hatch open for a while when camping and am thinking of switching those lights to LEDs to reduce current drain. With the power hatch, you are kind of stuck, as opening and closing the hatch a lot is not very good for battery drain either...
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  #27  
Old 07-16-2010, 09:08 AM
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0428 0428 is offline
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" PM me and I will tell you what I did with my 2008 X5 that was riddled with problems. You'll find that BMW is quite helpful (not the dealership). "
Most people here share their experiences freely with others while some........
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Last edited by 0428; 07-16-2010 at 09:12 AM.
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  #28  
Old 07-16-2010, 09:28 AM
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Nick9597 Nick9597 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0428 View Post
" PM me and I will tell you what I did with my 2008 X5 that was riddled with problems. You'll find that BMW is quite helpful (not the dealership). "
Most people here share their experiences freely with others while some........
There is no need to be nasty. I'm just trying to help if the person wants it. Please don't assume that I'm not willing to share info.
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  #29  
Old 07-16-2010, 10:21 AM
jblumhorst jblumhorst is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penguin View Post
Well, yes and no. You can deactivate the interior lights, which will solve the open door problem, but you cannot deactivate the rear hatch lights.

If you read the Owner's Manual, which has lots and lots of useful information, you'll see that by holding the interior light switch down for a few seconds, it will deactivate the interior lights.
Thank you so much!!! I now can disable the interior lights. That should **help** keep me from being stranded. I had asked my service advisor and salesman how to turn off the interior lights and they advised me that there was no way (sic). Apparently they don't know much about the car! I should have read the manual myself.

How can I disable the rear hatch light so we can tailgate?

From what others have said, I'm starting to think that there's something really wrong with my car. I don't sit in the car with the phone on, or radio on or with the key in the ignition. The dealer is telling me that the way **I** use the car is causing probems, but I'm using it the same way I've used every other Mercedes, Toyota, Chrylser (trucks), Honda and Ford I've every owned. Never had dead battery problems with any other car batteries before.

I just bought a spare digital multimeter to keep in the car. I'm going to start monitoring battery voltage. Can somebody tell me what I ought to see and when? My car has 4-zone climate, navigation, everything except comfort seating.

BTW, I'm toing to install a solar system to keep the battery charged when we're out boondocking: 11 watt Uni-Solar US-11 flexible PV module with a Flexcharge PV7 controller, with quick disconnect between the controller and the PV module . I haven't figured out where to put it yet, but it's easy enough to try different locations. Unforturnately, the car's going to get uncomfortably hot parked in the sun rather than shade.

This AIN'T a good car for boondocking.

Last edited by jblumhorst; 07-16-2010 at 10:34 AM. Reason: included quote
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  #30  
Old 07-16-2010, 12:02 PM
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Nick9597 Nick9597 is offline
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I had a 2008 X5 that was riddled with Problems. One ofter the other. From chattering engine, to squeaking brakes, rattling interior components, sunroof visor that constantly "clunked" when in vented position, Nav screen always going blank etc. etc. All of these items were looked at by the dealer and only the chattering engine was fixed (after several attempts). The other noisy items were deemed by the dealer and the BMW regional tech to be "normal".
This was unacceptable to me to I called BMW customer service and filed a complaint. After a little convincing on my part, and many other calls, BMW finally stepped up and "bought back" the X5 (even after having it for a year and a half!).

So, my advise to you would be to first see if the dealer can satisfy you.....if not....get on the phone to BMW right away.

Hope this helps.

P.S. BMW stated that one of the main reasons they made this decision is because of our loyalty to their brand. We have owned BMW's for over 10 years now...including our new 2011 X5 35d.
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  #31  
Old 07-16-2010, 12:49 PM
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0428 0428 is offline
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9597, thanks for the insight!
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  #32  
Old 07-16-2010, 01:25 PM
Penguin Penguin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblumhorst View Post
How can I disable the rear hatch light so we can tailgate?
The only way I know of is to remove the bulbs. I am looking into possible LED bulb replacements to reduce the current draw of the tailgate lights.

I have not had a battery problem, but I carry one of these in the back when I go camping, just in case:

http://www.cloreautomotive.com/site_prod.asp?sku_pk=264

P.S. Much as I hate to say it, most (not all) of the sales people know little about the cars they are selling. Few have ever read the entire Owner's Manual, and anyone who has read the manual probably knows more than they do about the vehicle.

There are a some good sales people, but they are few and far between.
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  #33  
Old 07-17-2010, 10:57 AM
spyderdoc spyderdoc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Penguin View Post
I am looking into possible LED bulb replacements to reduce the current draw of the tailgate lights.
I'm no electrical engineer, but I understand if you replace lights with LED versions, you have to put in a resistor to fake out the computer so it doesn't think the light is burnt out. If this is the case, won't you still get the same current draw due to the resistors? Perhaps this does not apply to interior lights (needing resistors), but I understand it to be true for signals and tail lights......
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  #34  
Old 07-17-2010, 12:52 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderdoc View Post
I'm no electrical engineer, but I understand if you replace lights with LED versions, you have to put in a resistor to fake out the computer so it doesn't think the light is burnt out. If this is the case, won't you still get the same current draw due to the resistors? Perhaps this does not apply to interior lights (needing resistors), but I understand it to be true for signals and tail lights......
Precisely true- any 'monitored circuit' than needs a resistor to create a current draw for the computer will be the identical battery drain as the conventional lamp it replaced.

As you point out, probably not needed for interior lights (since they are not safety items I suspect they are not monitored).
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  #35  
Old 07-17-2010, 01:07 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblumhorst View Post
I just bought a spare digital multimeter to keep in the car. I'm going to start monitoring battery voltage. Can somebody tell me what I ought to see and when? My car has 4-zone climate, navigation, everything except comfort seating..
Judy-

There is a specific test procedure that must be used to trouble shoot your issues- a digital multimeter is useless. It will only tell you what you you probably know at that point: if you cannot start the car, the multimeter will say the battery is low, period. Battery voltage is maintained up until the point that the charge 'crashes' and you no longer have current. So looking at the voltage will not warn of impending discharge. You can have modules draining the battery here and there and the multimeter will tell you nothing. All of a sudden, when the battery starts running out of charge the voltage tails off. But again, it will not tell you how much CURRENT has been draining...

You want to pull your old work orders and determine what exactly they did. If they didnt do the SIB I posted, find a dealer to do a PROPER, BMW Specified, diagnostic. At no charge. Once they diagnose faulty modules, THEN demand the $300 for the battery.

Good luck

A
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Last edited by ard; 07-17-2010 at 01:09 PM.
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  #36  
Old 07-17-2010, 05:31 PM
Penguin Penguin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderdoc View Post
I'm no electrical engineer, but I understand if you replace lights with LED versions, you have to put in a resistor to fake out the computer so it doesn't think the light is burnt out. If this is the case, won't you still get the same current draw due to the resistors? Perhaps this does not apply to interior lights (needing resistors), but I understand it to be true for signals and tail lights......
could be, but I am going on the assumption that interior lights are not monitored, as removing the bulb completely does not result in any error messages.
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