Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > 5 Series DIY

5 Series DIY
Knowledge Is Power! ~ The place for do-it-yourself threads on a variety of topics. Start a thread describing a particular job (oil change, cooling system overhaul, brakes, shocks and springs, etc.) or search for one you need help with!

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-02-2003, 12:04 PM
GOKOOLJAPAN GOKOOLJAPAN is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: gokool1@yahoo.com
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 23
Mein Auto: 1997 528i
DIY: How to change your belt, thermostat and Waterpump in your 528i

Belt Replacement, Thermostat Replacement, and Waterpump Replacement Instructions for 1997 528i


Disclaimer:
The procedure below is to be done at your own risk. I have changed the following parts using these procedures with positive results, but may not work for you. The instructions below were performed on a 1997 528i. Other years and models may differ, but I do not know for a fact. I will not be held accountable for any mishaps or accidents. Again, please perform these procedures at your own risk.





Tools needed:

32mm open end wrench
16mm socket
13mm socket
10mm socket
3/8 ratchet
Phillips screwdriver
Mallet
Flathead screwdriver

Parts needed:

Antiseize grease
Aluminum Thermostat Housing
New Orings for the thermostat and housing (looks kinda square or diamond shaped)
New Thermostat from BMW
New Metal Propellar Waterpump
New Belts (if needed)
New Hoses(if needed)
New screw type hose clamps from kragen, 5/16 size, the smallest size available




Drain the coolant by removing the plastic bolt on the bottom right of the radiator. You will need to remove the bottom plastic cover that covers the whole front of the car (jacking the car up may be needed, be cautious and use jacks stands). Possibly 9-11 phillips screws. <<

Now you need to remove the fan. This fan is attached to the waterpump and needs a little patience to be removed. Use a 32mm open ended wrench to remove the large bolt that the fan is attached to. Keep all belts on at this point. You will remove it clockwise instead of counterclockwise as you would normally remove a bolt. So righty loosey on this one bolt. The bolt is NOT on there very tight. Use a mallet to tap the bolt loose. This may take several taps to get it loose. Once the fan is loose, leave it hanging their because you need to remove the shroud with the fan. After the shroud is loose and dangling, you can either pull the fan with the shroud or wiggle it underneath the shroud(which is what i did).

Removing the shroud: Remove and set aside plastic fan shroud by removing the 2 plastic inserts on top and the cooland resorvoir holder up top. You do not necessarily have to remove the resorvoir completely, just let it sit in the shroud. The fan shroud just slides up and you will need to remove some of the hosing attached below by plastic C clips. Remove the 5/16 hose off of the resorvoir. You can either remove the C clip closests to the resorvoir or the one that is at the nipple. Be careful not to break the nipple part that sticks out of the the radiator. That thing is brittle. Don’t worry if you do break it, you can buy it seperately and you do not need to buy a whole radiator like some people have stated in here.



Now the belts. The tensioners are self adjusting, so please review the mechanisms and how it works (see pics below). Remove the accessory belt first (the one connected to the AC). Use a 13mm socket for this one and place it in the picture below. This will release the tension and you can slide the accessory belt off. Now work on the main drive belt. See the picture below for proper instructions. You may not get it at first, but just analyze it and you will get it. There are two holes that you would line up in order to stick something through it to keep tension loose. Use an allen wrench to keep the tension loose while you remove the belt.




















Once you slide the belt off, now you have access to the pump and the thermostat. Remove the housing and thermostat first. Make sure you make a note in which way the thermostat goes. When you replace the everything back, it goes in this order:
1. thermostat
2. 2. NEW O ring
3. 3. thermostat Housing.

Now let’s move onto the water pump. Remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the plastic pulley onto the waterpump. Now remove the bolts that hold the water pump to the block. “Gently” use a flat head screw driver to kind of pry the waterpump out. The reason why you can’t really pull it out is because the O ring is set in there. If you did not releive coolant from the block, then a lot of coolant will come out. You have been warned, so have a pan underneath that area. Re-installing the waterpump is straight forward and there shouldn’t be any problems there.


That is pretty much it, all you would have to do is replace everything in reverse order. Install new radiator hoses if applicable, Use the NEW generic 5/16 hose clamp from Kragen on the resorvoir hose that goes all the way to the top of the radiator nipple thingy. BTW: use antiseize grease on the bolts.

If you have any questions, email me at gokool1@yahoo.com

Last edited by GOKOOLJAPAN; 05-11-2005 at 04:20 PM.
Ads by Google
  #2  
Old 12-04-2003, 04:57 PM
Ågent99's Avatar
Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
Moderator, 5-Series
Location: Bay Area, CA
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,931
Mein Auto: Trek 6500 MTB
Nice!

Thanks a lot!

Chris
  #3  
Old 12-04-2003, 08:43 PM
kowached kowached is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: MI
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 77
Mein Auto: 1998 540iA Sport
Bravo!

Here is where this forum really shines, great DIY procedures (like many) that are EASY to find (unlike most).
__________________
bimmerfest 5-Series Welcome

Later,
Dave

E39 - 1998 540iA Sport (11/97 Production)
E30 - 1989 M3 (44k miles)
1979 Triumph TR7, still have my first car ;-)
Past cars:
E21 - 1980 320i (sold at 130k)
E23 - 1986 735i

Avatars under the signature are MUCH more prestigious than to the left of the post...
  #4  
Old 12-05-2003, 09:01 AM
GOKOOLJAPAN GOKOOLJAPAN is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: gokool1@yahoo.com
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 23
Mein Auto: 1997 528i
I updated the pics to be larger so you can actually read them. i drew those pics from scratch using paint....at work, so please don't make fun of them =P


MEMBERS: If something does not look correct or if there was something I missed, please let me know, and I will edit and update it.


Funny thing is that I am new to the BMW world, and I already performed a lot of maintanence and repairs. Soon I will have a full DIY write up on suspension upgrade!

Last edited by GOKOOLJAPAN; 12-05-2003 at 09:13 AM.
  #5  
Old 12-15-2003, 07:36 AM
GOKOOLJAPAN GOKOOLJAPAN is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: gokool1@yahoo.com
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 23
Mein Auto: 1997 528i
FYI:

just an FYI, i had to edit the fan part because I failed to mention that you need to remove the bolt prior to removing the shroud. In order to remove it, you need to pull the fan with the shroud. OR you can wiggle the fan underneath the shroud, once the shroud is loose.

Thanks!~
  #6  
Old 12-15-2003, 10:41 AM
rookie528 rookie528 is offline
Registered User
Location: san diego
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 17
Mein Auto: 2000 528i
gokool, what area are you from?

i've seen the name before but in the jdm import scene-I think mostly frm mira mesa. What was your previous car before the 528. I also jumped from the honda world to bimmers-2000 528i.
  #7  
Old 12-15-2003, 11:55 AM
GOKOOLJAPAN GOKOOLJAPAN is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: gokool1@yahoo.com
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 23
Mein Auto: 1997 528i
Quote:
Originally Posted by rookie528
i've seen the name before but in the jdm import scene-I think mostly frm mira mesa. What was your previous car before the 528. I also jumped from the honda world to bimmers-2000 528i.
You guessed right!

I used to have a 93 Mugen Integra w/ 16" M7's. Gokool is our car club that is mainly friends. I miss my car though, but I have a family now and needed to relax a bit on the modding, according to my wife <<<
where are you from and what color is your 5er? any mods? usually i see all the 5ers in my area, what rims are you rolling on?

peace
  #8  
Old 12-15-2003, 01:25 PM
rookie528 rookie528 is offline
Registered User
Location: san diego
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 17
Mein Auto: 2000 528i
small world-

i've seen yer car a couple of times at some meets. I had a red ek w/ bronze advan rgs. i'm in the exact same boat as you, the civic was too hard to transport my baby boy around. I just bought the car a mth ago and just got some 18 inch mutecs. saving up for the AE and m5 frnt & bk. I think you know my cuz, will. We all went to hooters after a meet. from jdmcivic to bimmerfest...lol any bmw meets around the daygo area?
  #9  
Old 12-15-2003, 02:23 PM
rookie528 rookie528 is offline
Registered User
Location: san diego
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 17
Mein Auto: 2000 528i
...

i have a 2000 528i-aspen silver, steptronic . what color is your car and what wheels?
  #10  
Old 05-03-2005, 09:13 AM
89 325i 89 325i is offline
Registered User
Location: Concord, MA
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 32
Mein Auto: 1989 325I
Great tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

Any idea how different the procedure would be with a '89 325i? That's probably not a question you would have any reason to have an answer to but I'm thinking of doing my timing belt and was wondering how applicable your info would be. Thought i'd ask th e question.

Thanks
  #11  
Old 05-03-2005, 09:33 AM
Ågent99's Avatar
Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
Moderator, 5-Series
Location: Bay Area, CA
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,931
Mein Auto: Trek 6500 MTB
Probably somewhat similar but try your hand in the 3-series forum to be sure.
  #12  
Old 02-14-2009, 12:43 PM
bmerking bmerking is offline
Registered User
Location: Atlanta, GA
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 6
Mein Auto: 2000 528i
This is an awesome tutorial... are the pics still available?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOKOOLJAPAN View Post
Belt Replacement, Thermostat Replacement, and Waterpump Replacement Instructions for 1997 528i


Disclaimer:
The procedure below is to be done at your own risk. I have changed the following parts using these procedures with positive results, but may not work for you. The instructions below were performed on a 1997 528i. Other years and models may differ, but I do not know for a fact. I will not be held accountable for any mishaps or accidents. Again, please perform these procedures at your own risk.





Tools needed:

32mm open end wrench
16mm socket
13mm socket
10mm socket
3/8 ratchet
Phillips screwdriver
Mallet
Flathead screwdriver

Parts needed:

Antiseize grease
Aluminum Thermostat Housing
New Orings for the thermostat and housing (looks kinda square or diamond shaped)
New Thermostat from BMW
New Metal Propellar Waterpump
New Belts (if needed)
New Hoses(if needed)
New screw type hose clamps from kragen, 5/16 size, the smallest size available




Drain the coolant by removing the plastic bolt on the bottom right of the radiator. You will need to remove the bottom plastic cover that covers the whole front of the car (jacking the car up may be needed, be cautious and use jacks stands). Possibly 9-11 phillips screws. <<

Now you need to remove the fan. This fan is attached to the waterpump and needs a little patience to be removed. Use a 32mm open ended wrench to remove the large bolt that the fan is attached to. Keep all belts on at this point. You will remove it clockwise instead of counterclockwise as you would normally remove a bolt. So righty loosey on this one bolt. The bolt is NOT on there very tight. Use a mallet to tap the bolt loose. This may take several taps to get it loose. Once the fan is loose, leave it hanging their because you need to remove the shroud with the fan. After the shroud is loose and dangling, you can either pull the fan with the shroud or wiggle it underneath the shroud(which is what i did).

Removing the shroud: Remove and set aside plastic fan shroud by removing the 2 plastic inserts on top and the cooland resorvoir holder up top. You do not necessarily have to remove the resorvoir completely, just let it sit in the shroud. The fan shroud just slides up and you will need to remove some of the hosing attached below by plastic C clips. Remove the 5/16 hose off of the resorvoir. You can either remove the C clip closests to the resorvoir or the one that is at the nipple. Be careful not to break the nipple part that sticks out of the the radiator. That thing is brittle. Don’t worry if you do break it, you can buy it seperately and you do not need to buy a whole radiator like some people have stated in here.



Now the belts. The tensioners are self adjusting, so please review the mechanisms and how it works (see pics below). Remove the accessory belt first (the one connected to the AC). Use a 13mm socket for this one and place it in the picture below. This will release the tension and you can slide the accessory belt off. Now work on the main drive belt. See the picture below for proper instructions. You may not get it at first, but just analyze it and you will get it. There are two holes that you would line up in order to stick something through it to keep tension loose. Use an allen wrench to keep the tension loose while you remove the belt.




















Once you slide the belt off, now you have access to the pump and the thermostat. Remove the housing and thermostat first. Make sure you make a note in which way the thermostat goes. When you replace the everything back, it goes in this order:
1. thermostat
2. 2. NEW O ring
3. 3. thermostat Housing.

Now let’s move onto the water pump. Remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the plastic pulley onto the waterpump. Now remove the bolts that hold the water pump to the block. “Gently” use a flat head screw driver to kind of pry the waterpump out. The reason why you can’t really pull it out is because the O ring is set in there. If you did not releive coolant from the block, then a lot of coolant will come out. You have been warned, so have a pan underneath that area. Re-installing the waterpump is straight forward and there shouldn’t be any problems there.


That is pretty much it, all you would have to do is replace everything in reverse order. Install new radiator hoses if applicable, Use the NEW generic 5/16 hose clamp from Kragen on the resorvoir hose that goes all the way to the top of the radiator nipple thingy. BTW: use antiseize grease on the bolts.

If you have any questions, email me at gokool1@yahoo.com
__________________

2000 528i with Cosmo Racing SRI
  #13  
Old 03-08-2009, 09:49 AM
mosearch mosearch is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Point Richmond, CA
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 278
Mein Auto: 528i, Y2K
SOUNDS like a good DIY...but i'm not getting any pictures at all...is it just me?
  #14  
Old 03-11-2009, 02:12 PM
barneyhyphen barneyhyphen is offline
Registered User
Location: Nashville, Tn
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 89
Mein Auto: 2000 323i sedan
me 2
Closed Thread

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > 5 Series DIY
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms