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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-08-2016, 07:35 PM
DaytonaSteve DaytonaSteve is offline
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Mein Auto: 325 CI
Convertible top stuck

Was putting the top up on my 2005 - 325. When the top reached the point where the windshield latches would engage, the process stopped and the switch light started blinking. Top would not latch and it would not allow me to put the top back down. The light just kept blinking. Closed the top using the manual process but it will not open. If I push the button, the light just blinks.

Any suggestions as to what I should do to rectify would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 05-08-2016, 08:59 PM
cvx5832 cvx5832 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaytonaSteve View Post
Was putting the top up on my 2005 - 325. When the top reached the point where the windshield latches would engage, the process stopped and the switch light started blinking. Top would not latch and it would not allow me to put the top back down. The light just kept blinking. Closed the top using the manual process but it will not open. If I push the button, the light just blinks.

Any suggestions as to what I should do to rectify would be appreciated.
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Old 05-09-2016, 06:06 AM
DaytonaSteve DaytonaSteve is offline
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Perfect. That's exactly where the problem is. It was poorly repaired before using butt end connectors and the repair failed. This video showed me exactly where to look . Thank you very much.
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:22 AM
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All2kool All2kool is offline
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Mein Auto: '02 BMW 325Ci Convertible
Did this repair myself just last week. Mine was the GREEN wire at the bend point. I spliced in a 3" and folded it over so the new bend point is in the new wire. I used some very flexible wire I had already, soldered it in of course. I strongly suggest using the soldering iron to open up the sheathing. I used scissors and it looked like hell when I got done but I re-wrapped it all in electrical tape; it's out of sight and out of mind. Also - the clip the YouTube poster removed will actually slide down the cable with very little effort - no need to remove (and destroy) it.

It's also a good idea to know where the Manual Release Button and Hex Wrench are for when you need to close it.

Last edited by All2kool; 05-09-2016 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:41 AM
cvx5832 cvx5832 is offline
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Originally Posted by DaytonaSteve View Post
Perfect. That's exactly where the problem is. It was poorly repaired before using butt end connectors and the repair failed. This video showed me exactly where to look . Thank you very much.
No problem! Same with the elephant trunk fix, best to pull new wire so it doesn't bend on the solder joints.
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:31 AM
DaytonaSteve DaytonaSteve is offline
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Correct...all fixed and working fine. Did you find a source for the wires with a higher strand count as to increase the longevity of the repair?
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:10 AM
cvx5832 cvx5832 is offline
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Originally Posted by DaytonaSteve View Post
Correct...all fixed and working fine. Did you find a source for the wires with a higher strand count as to increase the longevity of the repair?
Not so much strand count, but better insulation quality. It's the sheath that evens out the curvature of the deflection. When the sheath breaks is when you get a concentration of bending forces around the crack.

If you really want to get into it, check the material printed on the wire and compare it to the guide below. Those known for long term flexibility are identified and is what you want.

The better the insulation material, the longer it keeps bending.

http://www.awcwire.com/insulation-materials.aspx
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