Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-26-2010, 12:12 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,509
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
AAA is towing my car in 30 minutes (total electrical failure)

AAA is towing my car in 30 minutes (total electrical failure).

Unfolding story:
- E39 wouldn't start this morning for some reason (unknown);
- Charged with a battery charger for 1/2 hour; car started fine;
- No lights on the dash whatsoever; no abnormal running
- Drove 25 miles; enough to charge battery; shut down car;
- Car would not start. Nothing. Got another jump from a passerby;
- With jumpers, car started in seconds; didn't even sound groany;
- No indicator lights; can't tell if battery indicator is green/yellow/black;
- Looks black but you can't get your head inside the trunk to really see;
- Drove car heading home for about 15 miles; But then ...
- Radio started cutting in and out;
- Red battery symbol showed up on dash for the first time;
- TRANS FAILSAFE PROGRAM flashed on the cluster a minute before it died;
- Car died midway in the road; luckily I was able to roll off to the side;
- Got a jump from a passerby; let it sit charging the battery for 5 min;
- Passerby had to go; started driving; red battery light is lit solid;
- E39 didn't get a half mile; stumbled; and then just shut down;
- Pulled over to the side; called a friend; she picked me up;
- Called AAA; they're on the way (will have to go back out to car).

Will research, after they tow me, whether it's:
- Alternator perhaps not charging (but why the red light so late?)
- Battery bad (new BMW battery in 2008); no sign of deterioration
- FSU was replaced in 2008 or 2009 (no signs of erratic A/C blower)
- ???

Will need debugging hints. TIA
Reply With Quote
Advertisement
  #2  
Old 07-26-2010, 12:53 PM
jarhed1964 jarhed1964 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Charlotte, NC
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 500
Mein Auto: 97 &99 528i, 05 e60 530i
Hmm...

My mind says alternator and/or bad battery. I've bought brand new batteries that were dead within four months. It happens on occasion. I'd have it checked to see if it will even hold a charge. At the same time, I'd get that alternator tested.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-26-2010, 12:59 PM
s140s s140s is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Schaumburg IL
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 168
Mein Auto: 2001 530i Sport AW
Souds like

1. Internal Alternator Part Failure - Brushes
2. Voltage Regulator
3. Battery
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-26-2010, 01:11 PM
mmm635's Avatar
mmm635 mmm635 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Jackson, MS
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,179
Mein Auto: '02 525i Sp/5, 95 FJ80 LC
Blue...looks like you need a new alternator from that description.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-26-2010, 01:34 PM
E39 Paul E39 Paul is offline
Registered User
Location: Ireland
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 82
Mein Auto: e39 530i
+1 on alternator. Had exact same symptoms years ago on Renault Clio Williams I have. Was stuck 30ish miles from home. Mate turned up and towed to his garage. Replaced alternator and battery!!!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-26-2010, 02:00 PM
paferri's Avatar
paferri paferri is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Long Island, NY
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 494
Mein Auto: '98 Alpine White E39 528i
classic alternator symptoms....agreed
__________________

1998 528iA MFD Date: 6/1998
Lets go Islanders!!!!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-26-2010, 02:43 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,509
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Just got E39 off the flatbed. Was interesting to see him tow it.

He towed from the front hook that I pulled out of the trunk kit (wish I had a reflector in that kit given the danger in the roadway when it happened).
1. He pushed with his finger at the arrow in the front bumper
2. Off popped the toe-hook hole cover
3. He asked me for the tow hook which I pulled out of the trunk kit
4. He screwed it in hand tight - then with a pry bar really tightly
(He said when they pop out, people get killed.)
5. He hooked his winch up to that tow hook
6. He put the keys in the ignition and steered it to the flatbed
7. Twice he had to stop pulling to re-steer into the flatbed
8. Once flat, he strapped the front wheels
9. And he chain-hooked the rear suspension
10. He kept the tow hook engaged all the time

Once it was flat, he strapped the front wheels and chain-hooked the rear suspension from the aluminum "hinged beam" parts. When I mentioned to him not to "bend" anything, he said a lot of drivers bend this part by putting too much tension on it. He said the trick is to keep the hook close the the center and as far from the wheel as possible.

Anyway, as soon as I submit this impromptu "DIY towing" post, I'll be digging for alternator DIYs.

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	tow_bmw_001.jpg
Views:	1584
Size:	160.2 KB
ID:	239778   Click image for larger version

Name:	tow_bmw_002.jpg
Views:	363
Size:	149.5 KB
ID:	239779   Click image for larger version

Name:	tow_bmw_003.jpg
Views:	1392
Size:	239.9 KB
ID:	239780   Click image for larger version

Name:	tow_bmw_004.jpg
Views:	5605
Size:	226.2 KB
ID:	239781   Click image for larger version

Name:	tow_bmw_005.jpg
Views:	6239
Size:	111.3 KB
ID:	239782  


Last edited by bluebee; 07-26-2010 at 02:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-26-2010, 02:44 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Oregon
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,222
Mein Auto: '99 528i, M52TU w/stick
Would CN90's alternator rebuild be a good preventative?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-26-2010, 03:19 PM
540 M-Sport's Avatar
540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,035
Mein Auto: 01' 540 M-Sport cdn, F355
+3 on the alternator...classic symptoms described. While it might be okay to hook to the suspension, I have always seen the tow truck operator to leave the front winch attached as shown, but to only secure the car to the flat bed with nylon straps through each wheel. I suppose hooks on the suspension would be the only choice the straps cannot go through the wheels...
__________________
Factory M-Sport package with factory installed M-tech bumpers, factory Bluetooth, factory M-Audio 10" dual voice coil subs, Homelink, M5 rear stabilizer bar, Bilstein B14 PSS coil overs, Stop Tech ss brake lines, Akebono Euro Ceramic brake pads, oem Brembo and Zimmerman rotors, Dinan Stage 1 software, Strong Strut front upper stress bar.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-26-2010, 03:51 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,509
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Would CN90's alternator rebuild be a good preventative?
I don't disagree it's likely either the alternator or the battery.
What I need first, is a good DIY for testing what the bad component is.

Testing a battery is reasonably straightforward but I have little clue how to test an alternator.

MY GUESS HOW TO TEST A BATTERY:
- Note dash indicators (red battery light now; but not before)
- Note the date (this one is just a couple of years old)
- Note the indicator lamp (hard to see, but looks pretty black to me)
- Note the voltage after charging (is taking 5 amps on the charger now)
- Note the voltage drop with lights on as a load (need to do after it charges)
- Note each cell's specific gravity (need to find my almost-never used hygrometer)
- Note whether it takes a charge (it seems to take a charge so far)
- What else do we test to see if it's the battery?

MY GUESS HOW TO TEST AN ALTERNATOR:
- Note the brand & model of alternator (need to figure that out)
- Note dashboard indications (red battery light only now; not before)
- With charged battery, note voltage before & after starting (I assume the voltage will go UP after starting the car due to alternator output)
- Put an ammeter on the output from the alternator (need to find my ammeter hookup and need to find WHERE the wire comes out of alternator)
- Anything else to test alternator?

To find how to test an alternator, I first went to the best-links and searched for "alternator", finding only these two DIYs:
- cn90 alternator rebuild DIY
- Massive cn90 DIY Oil Line ---> Vanos, CCV, ICV and Alternator Air Duct

Using the search button, I am overwhelmed by over 1,000 results for "alternator", so I need to narrow it down to the threads which show how to TEST the alternator!

- This post says to identify if it's Bosch or Valeo first (with a mirror)
- If it's the battery, QSilver7 says consider the Duralast 49DL (or 94R?)
- If it's the alternator, QSilver7 says to check belts, pulleys & tensioners
- cn90 lists alternator removal instructions in step #6 of this post
- cn90 lists rebuild alternator parts here ... (and the Greely source here, 8am - 4pm MST, M-F)
- This post says alternator should be putting out 14.5 volts
- This post says to check the positive cable mechanical connection
- Here, 540M-sport recommends this $100 alternator tester
- Here they say autozone can test the alternator off the car
- Fast-Bob says the regulator is inside the alternator; cleaning cables sometimes helps
- A DMM test of the alternator is proposed in this post
- E46 Alternator Removal DIY
- Edjack suggests a test for alternator not putting out enough juice
- cn90 suggests what to look out for in a rebuilt alternator
- cn90 suggests a test for bad cabling
- doru find of range rover bosch alternator rebuild

Still haven't seen a comprehensive step-by-step DIY for testing the alternator (but will keep searching).

BTW, I put the charger on it and it immediately took almost 6 amps and then slowly started to take fewer amps. It's still charging as we type.


Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	alternator_bmw.jpg
Views:	12253
Size:	233.7 KB
ID:	239784  

Last edited by bluebee; 07-26-2010 at 07:27 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-26-2010, 03:57 PM
Fooljam's Avatar
Fooljam Fooljam is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Location
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 151
Mein Auto: Unknown error...
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Just got E39 off the flatbed. Was interesting to see him tow it.

He towed from the front hook that I pulled out of the trunk kit (wish I had a reflector in that kit given the danger in the roadway when it happened).
1. He pushed with his finger at the arrow in the front bumper
2. Off popped the toe-hook hole cover
3. He asked me for the tow hook which I pulled out of the trunk kit
4. He screwed it in hand tight - then with a pry bar really tightly
(He said when they pop out, people get killed.)
5. He hooked his winch up to that tow hook
6. He put the keys in the ignition and steered it to the flatbed
7. Twice he had to stop pulling to re-steer into the flatbed
8. Once flat, he strapped the front wheels
9. And he chain-hooked the rear suspension
10. He kept the tow hook engaged all the time

Once it was flat, he strapped the front wheels and chain-hooked the rear suspension from the aluminum "hinged beam" parts. When I mentioned to him not to "bend" anything, he said a lot of drivers bend this part by putting too much tension on it. He said the trick is to keep the hook close the the center and as far from the wheel as possible.

Anyway, as soon as I submit this impromptu "DIY towing" post, I'll be digging for alternator DIYs.

Another moronic tower...Do not tow a bimmer through suspension parts...
There is one hole on the front, one on the rear.
Once the car is lifted, secure through the wheels, not the suspension.
Make sure once you have the car back everything is fine with the suspension.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:03 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,509
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by 540 M-Sport View Post
I suppose hooks on the suspension would be the only choice the straps cannot go through the wheels...
He put straps thru the front wheels but not the rear wheels (which are the same style). Dunno exactly why.

I'm gonna let the battery charge for a few hours, and then test the voltage this way (does this look like the right approach)?

A quick survey of about two dozen "alternator" articles nets me the following DIY test for the alternator (so far):

0. With a mirror, identify brand and type of alternator (what am I looking for)?
1. Test voltage across battery with car off (look for around 12-14 volts)
2. Test voltage across engine terminals with car off (should be the same)
3. Turn headlights on for at least one minute & then turn them off; test voltage at engine or battery (shouldn't drop too much ... how much is too much?)
4. Start car ... test voltage across engine terminals (should be higher than 14 volts if the alternator is working)
5. Check current going INTO the battery positive terminal (should be ?? amps)
6. Check current coming out of back of alternator (should be ?? amps)
7. If the alternator isn't putting out, then you need to (somehow) check the belts and or tensioners for tension (I'm not sure how). At least I can check if the alternator is "turning" ... is that enough?

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	straps.jpg
Views:	9451
Size:	175.6 KB
ID:	239801  
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:05 PM
87vert's Avatar
87vert 87vert is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Pittsburgh,PA
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 339
Mein Auto: '02 BMW 525i
I am thinking the alternator also.

Not really DIY but PepBoys can usually test alternators if you pull it and bring it in. I used to do them all the time when I worked there.
__________________
'02 525i - Titanium Gray
Blitz Safe AUX Audio Connector

Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:10 PM
dms540i's Avatar
dms540i dms540i is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Massachusetts
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 540
Mein Auto: 1999 BMW 540iA
My two cents: TRANS FAILSAFE often is triggered by a bad ignition switch.
__________________
BMWCCA#401441
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:24 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,509
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
(I am just now starting to flip through the Bentleys to see how to test the alternator while the battery is charging).

While it's charging, may I ask if it matters whether I charge the battery from the engine compartment or from the trunk?

BTW, it's taking 4 amps, even an hour after I hooked it up!

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	where_to_put_charger.jpg
Views:	4314
Size:	251.8 KB
ID:	239812  
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:47 PM
QSilver7's Avatar
QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Northeast Indiana
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,963
Mein Auto: 1997 740iL / 2006 X5 4.4
No mention of TEST 9?

A quick check BMW owners can do is TEST 9. If you've unlocked your instrument cluster...with the ignition in position 1 or 2...it will show the BATTERY's voltage. Check this BEFORE you start or charge the battery because you want to check it BEFORE it receives a "surface charge"...which can give you an untrue reading of the battery's health.

If you run TEST 9 with the engine running...you will get an idea of the car's charging system voltage. With the engine running, you should have voltage numbers between 12.8 - 14+ volts....this is required since you have a 12 volt battery...in order to "replenish" the battery, it needs to receive more than it gives.

Blue, I don't remember if you have the high or the low instrument cluster...so you'll have to go to my CarDomain site and scroll down to which ever one you have to see the instruction on how to UNLOCK the instrument cluster's OBC to access the 21 TESTs: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3134093/6


Low Cluster (do TEST #19 to UNLOCK the cluster): (a bit more complicated since there's only 1 button on the instrument cluster)



High Cluster:
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 07-26-2010 at 04:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:59 PM
xraye39 xraye39 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: usa
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 298
Mein Auto: 530i
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
AAA is towing my car in 30 minutes (total electrical failure).

Unfolding story:
- E39 wouldn't start this morning for some reason (unknown);
Bluebee,
This is where you should have stopped and saved yourself a bunch of aggravation, just like a human your car was giving you symptoms of an underlying problem.

I would have whipped out my multimeter and checked the charge of the battery and then once I jumped it I would have checked the output of the alternator.

If you do not possess a multimeter you can buy a pretty simple cheap one a Home Depot, Radio Shack etc.

You could also utilized the built in voltage meter by unlocking your cluster.

Just some food for thought
__________________
2003 530iA Sport - Titangrau Metallic/Schwarz Montana
Build Codes: ZSP/ZPP/ZCW. Born on date: 09/02, Dingolfing, Deutschland

NAV MKIV | PP | CWP | Xenons | Style 42s | Rear Shades | OEM ULF Bluetooth | Euro Armrest | Beisan Vanos Seals |

2003 530i/5Spd Sport - Titanium Silber/Schwarz Montana
| PP | Xenons | Style 42s | OEM TCU Bluetooth | Euro Armrest | Beisan Vanos Seals |

2001 525iA - Anthracite Metalic / Grau Montana
Sold but in the "family"
| Euro Armrest | Beisan Vanos Seals |
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 07-26-2010, 05:16 PM
TemporarySanity's Avatar
TemporarySanity TemporarySanity is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Linden,MI
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,561
Mein Auto: 02 530, 02 540, 07 525
I had the same symptoms when my alternator went south.
__________________

I discovered I scream the same way whether I'm about to be eaten by a great white shark or if a piece of seaweed touches my foot.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 07-26-2010, 05:35 PM
borderchris's Avatar
borderchris borderchris is offline
Ich liebe meine Funfers!
Location: San Diego
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 628
Mein Auto: 550i and E34 530i
Quote:
Originally Posted by dms540i View Post
My two cents: TRANS FAILSAFE often is triggered by a bad ignition switch.
Based on the symptoms, I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one. The failsafe mode is simply a sign of the low system voltage in this case. The transmission computer uses quite a bit of juice to do it's thinking, and when you cut the power down significantly, you pay for it in limited function.

Happened to me on the '01 530iA, and the first thing to go was the shifting. I though I had a blown transmission- turned out later that I needed a new alternator... Another reason I love my 5 speed, now!
__________________


550i . Sport . Nav . L7 . Sirius . Cold . Eibachs . Bilsteins . 19" TSW . K&N . MTech V3
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 07-26-2010, 06:08 PM
Fudman's Avatar
Fudman Fudman is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Sudbury, MA
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,257
Mein Auto: '02 530i Sport auto
Bluebee:
If you confirm it is indeed your alternator, here are some DIYs for alternator replacement. Sorry, don't have one for the 525. But these should be close. Good luck andplease post what the cause of your problem actually is when you know. Thanx.

This is for a 540:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1463422

This is for a 740i:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/355405

This si for a 528i:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...alternator+DIY

Follow cn90s steps 1-6 here:
http://wwww.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?p=4719959

An abbreviated cn90 DIY for alternator DIY:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...alternator+diy
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 07-26-2010, 06:29 PM
cn90 cn90 is online now
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,914
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
bluebee,

PM edjack (he is in San Jose too) to see if he can help you.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 07-26-2010, 06:46 PM
doru's Avatar
doru doru is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Calgary
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,507
Mein Auto: 2003 530iA
And Donna, what Qsilver said: test #9. Very easy to do, and gives you tons of info.
FYI, when running, my alt shows about 13,7V and my car is a 2003, so quite close to yours in terms of manufacturing. Not sure about the alternator brand.
Might need to swap those brushes out as mentioned above. but do test #9 first.
If you swap the brushes, test the bearings too.

Cheers
__________________
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 07-26-2010, 08:24 PM
540 M-Sport's Avatar
540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,035
Mein Auto: 01' 540 M-Sport cdn, F355
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fooljam View Post
Another moronic tower...Do not tow a bimmer through suspension parts...
There is one hole on the front, one on the rear.
Once the car is lifted, secure through the wheels, not the suspension.
Make sure once you have the car back everything is fine with the suspension.
It was not towed by the suspension, it was only secured to the flat bed via the suspension bits. Still not ideal. At the minimum, I would have used nylon straps rather than metal hooks to the arms.
__________________
Factory M-Sport package with factory installed M-tech bumpers, factory Bluetooth, factory M-Audio 10" dual voice coil subs, Homelink, M5 rear stabilizer bar, Bilstein B14 PSS coil overs, Stop Tech ss brake lines, Akebono Euro Ceramic brake pads, oem Brembo and Zimmerman rotors, Dinan Stage 1 software, Strong Strut front upper stress bar.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 07-26-2010, 08:27 PM
540 M-Sport's Avatar
540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,035
Mein Auto: 01' 540 M-Sport cdn, F355
Quote:
Originally Posted by borderchris View Post
Based on the symptoms, I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one. The failsafe mode is simply a sign of the low system voltage in this case. The transmission computer uses quite a bit of juice to do it's thinking, and when you cut the power down significantly, you pay for it in limited function.

Happened to me on the '01 530iA, and the first thing to go was the shifting. I though I had a blown transmission- turned out later that I needed a new alternator... Another reason I love my 5 speed, now!
+1, same happened to me when my alternator failed.
__________________
Factory M-Sport package with factory installed M-tech bumpers, factory Bluetooth, factory M-Audio 10" dual voice coil subs, Homelink, M5 rear stabilizer bar, Bilstein B14 PSS coil overs, Stop Tech ss brake lines, Akebono Euro Ceramic brake pads, oem Brembo and Zimmerman rotors, Dinan Stage 1 software, Strong Strut front upper stress bar.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 07-26-2010, 08:28 PM
540 M-Sport's Avatar
540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,035
Mein Auto: 01' 540 M-Sport cdn, F355
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
(I am just now starting to flip through the Bentleys to see how to test the alternator while the battery is charging).

While it's charging, may I ask if it matters whether I charge the battery from the engine compartment or from the trunk?

BTW, it's taking 4 amps, even an hour after I hooked it up!

Safest to charge from the engine compartment, less chance of igniting battery gases. That is why BMW recommends that way.
__________________
Factory M-Sport package with factory installed M-tech bumpers, factory Bluetooth, factory M-Audio 10" dual voice coil subs, Homelink, M5 rear stabilizer bar, Bilstein B14 PSS coil overs, Stop Tech ss brake lines, Akebono Euro Ceramic brake pads, oem Brembo and Zimmerman rotors, Dinan Stage 1 software, Strong Strut front upper stress bar.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms