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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 07-26-2010, 08:54 PM
jarhed1964 jarhed1964 is offline
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I usually pull my battery out completely to charge it.
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  #27  
Old 07-26-2010, 10:55 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
If you run TEST 9 ... With the engine running, you should have voltage numbers between 12.8 - 14+ volts
Hi QSilver7,

Thanks for the advice (we'll need to add this to the eventual alternator-testing DIY).

I have the high instrument cluster (i.e., two buttons, 20-digit readout at the bottom center, oil-service interval to the left) and the high MID (BC button); and I already unlocked it (for the KTMP tests prior) but, for some reason, it showed up as LOCK=ON for the tests .

I promptly re-un-locked it, using these three OBC references:
- OBC Tests (Unlocking the High & Low Instrument Cluster)
- Summary of how to tell if you have the high or low instrument cluster
- Exploring the E39 OBC
which basically consisted of adding the last five VIN digits and pressing the RESET button that many times in test #19).

With or without the car running, the voltage remained below 12 volts.

But, reading page 121-12 of the Bentleys tells me that it can take up to 15 seconds before a BMW alternator puts out correctly ... so I should have rev'd the engine and waited fifteen seconds while doing so (note to self and others).

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Last edited by bluebee; 07-27-2010 at 01:13 AM.
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  #28  
Old 07-26-2010, 11:17 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
when running, my alt shows about 13.7V ... Not sure about the alternator brand
Mine showed less than 12 volts at idle. I forgot to rev it up so I'll try that next and see if it changes the number at all ... but it's looking like the alternator is kaput (maybe that's the noise I heard over in this thread).

As for the brand of alternator, I was confused by REALOEM because it showed three for my serial number:
- 90 amp Valeo alternator
- 120 amp Bosch generator <=== why do they call this a "generator" and not an "alternator"?
- 120/140 amp Valeo alternator

So I took a mechanic's mirror and snapped a shot to get your advice. (This shot below is flipped horizontally so that we can read the mirrored lettering.)

I can make out "BOSCH120", and the number "0 124 515 050" and "NCB1 14V 70-120A" and "7 501 595 GL" and "Made in Great Britain 806".

I hope it's the same one cn90 rebuilt ... 'cuz then the parts would be the same ... but I doubt it (given the different year).

Is the right approach either to rebuild (as per cn90) or to replace with a 1:1 Bosch 120 amp remanufactured unit? Or new?

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Last edited by bluebee; 07-27-2010 at 01:50 AM.
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  #29  
Old 07-27-2010, 12:24 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarhed1964 View Post
I usually pull my battery out completely to charge it.
It seemed suspicious to me that the battery, even after hours of charging from the engine compartment, was still sucking 5 amps ... so I moved it to the rear, after disconnecting the negative cable to isolate just the battery.

Guess what. A full 5 amps. So it didn't make any difference. I'll leave it charging overnight. (Just checked after about 4 hours, it's still charging at 4 amps.) I need to go on an interview tomorrow (I pushed it off today ... got laid off ... no fun) ... anyway ... it will be interesting to see how far the E39 can go on a full battery charge ...

Doing some research, REALOEM lists the 120 amp alternator as part number 12317501599 for $561. However, a remanufactured Bosch 120 amp alternator is easy to find at roughly $175 (plus tax & shipping); but I may take up cn90's advice and go for the rebuild when I figure out what is really wrong with diagnostic tests (it could be the belts, for instance). Time to parts will be a major consideration ... as is the troubleshooting and R&R procedure.

For troubleshooting:
- Pelican has a 3-series alternator troubleshooting DIY
- The BMW 2002 FAQ has a description of the charging system
- Test of a 120 amp BMW alternator puts out 142 amps (youtube)

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Last edited by bluebee; 07-29-2010 at 12:38 AM.
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  #30  
Old 07-27-2010, 12:55 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record (from the Bentleys, starting at page 121-5), it looks like the first test is to check the specific gravity of a fully charged battery.

0. Check that the cables are tight and free of corrosion
1. Load the battery with 15 amperes for one minute (by turning the headlights on with car off)
2. Remove the sticker on top of the battery covering the cell caps
3. Remove the cell caps
4. Test the specific gravity with a hygrometer

The next test seems to be the battery open circuit voltage test.
1. Load the battery with 15 amperes for one minute (by turning the headlights on with car off)
2. Put a DMM across the battery terminals to check voltage
3. See chart below for analysis

This is the load voltage test:
0. Disconnect the battery cables
1. Apply a 200 amp load for fifteen seconds
2. Check the voltage across the battery terminals
3. See chart below for analysis
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-29-2010 at 12:38 AM.
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  #31  
Old 07-27-2010, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarhed1964 View Post
I usually pull my battery out completely to charge it.
That seems to be what the Bentleys recommend, on page 121-9.
- Remove battery from trunk to charge
- Keep charge current below 6 amperes
- Keep charge voltage below 16.5 volts
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-29-2010 at 12:39 AM.
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  #32  
Old 07-27-2010, 01:10 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TemporarySanity View Post
I had the same symptoms when my alternator went south.
It looks like I have an alternator with multi-function control (MFR). For MFR alternators, the red battery light goes on given any of the following:
- Drive belt failure
- Electrical fault
- Excitation circuit fault
- Defective controller output stage
- Fault in charge line
- And finally, alternator fault

Yikes. These seem more complex than just whether the alternator is putting out or not ...
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-29-2010 at 12:39 AM.
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  #33  
Old 07-27-2010, 01:30 AM
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Moving on to summarize Bentley suggested checks for the charging system, it seems the first test we've already done which is the battery voltage test under charge:

0. Check voltage across battery with key off
1. Check voltage across battery with engine idling
2. Wait at least 15 seconds for the alternator output to rise
3. Results should jive with the chart below
Note: Also check voltage from the engine + terminal to ground (it should be the same).

While I read elsewhere a test of the alternator is to disconnect the battery negative cable while the car is running, the Bentleys expressly forbid that. Curiously, they suggest not using analog multimeters in favor of digital multimeters.

The next step is to check for battery voltage at the alternator:
- Completely remove engine air filter housing as described below

Once access to the alternator is gained (V6 is vastly easier than V8):
- Check the voltage from the alternator #30 post and ground
- It should be the same as the battery voltage

Now disconnect the harness connector to the alternator:
- Check voltage from terminal 15 and ground (field voltage)
- It should be the same as the battery voltage

Last is the operational check as shown above. If this fails, the alternator is toast.
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-29-2010 at 12:40 AM.
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  #34  
Old 07-27-2010, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
If you confirm it is indeed your alternator, here are some DIYs for alternator replacement. Sorry, don't have one for the 525.
\

Thanks Fudman for gathering up the BMW alternator R&R DIYs together as little nuances always get me when mine is different than the description so it helps to have multiple descriptions.

Here's what the Bentleys say (page 121-15) for the I6 engine that I have:
0. Remove air filter housing
1. Remove alternator drive belt
2. Remove radiator cooling fan and fan shroud
3. Unbolt power steering fluid reservoir & bracket (keep hoses attached)
4. Disconnect alternator air-cooling tube
5. Disconnect wiring from rear of alternator
6. Remove upper mounting bolts from alternator
7. Remove lower mounting bolts from alternator
8. Remove idler pulley cover and retaining bolt if necessary

Of course, the devil is in the details!
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  #35  
Old 07-27-2010, 04:02 AM
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Shires Shires is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
why do they call this a "generator" and not an "alternator"?
Translation error?
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  #36  
Old 07-27-2010, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shires View Post
Translation error?
Yeah, or maybe, in German, there isn't a reverse distinction between the alternator (rectified AC) and a generator (DC).

This morning, the battery charge dropped to less than an amp (as it's supposed to), so that battery must've been deeeeep discharged. The fisheye is still hard to tell, but, it looks pretty green when I use a flashlight.

I'm a bit scared, this is one job that disables the car totally while in progress (and I tend to take my time when I'm not sure what to do). The instructions for replacing the alternator (I may as well replace the belts too) don't look too bad. I'll need to read all the DIYs first (I spend more time researching & reporting than doing sometimes).

Are these my only viable options if it's the alternator?
- Replace the alternator with a Valeo or Bosch 120 amp unit, new or refurbished
- Rebuild the alternator with quality components (ala cn90)

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  #37  
Old 07-27-2010, 09:37 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Just an FYI: when ever the car loses power...the instrument cluster/OBC "RE-LOCKS" itself...so that's why you had to UNLOCK it again.

Good luck with the alternator replacement.
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2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
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  #38  
Old 07-27-2010, 09:37 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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bluebee,

By definition, a generator is a generator. It basically produces current, which could be either DC (bicycle) or AC (household current or car current).
So the German is correct.

Rebuilding the Alternator takes time to order parts.
Maybe easier to order a rebuilt Bosch from local autoparts store.

Too bad you don't live in L.A. otherwise my cousin could help you (he owns a BMW indy shop).
Perhaps another member from San Jose can give you a hand.
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  #39  
Old 07-27-2010, 09:44 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
The instructions for replacing the alternator (I may as well replace the belts too) don't look too bad.
I spoke too soon. The Bentleys stink when it comes to the alternator removal.
And there's no 1:1 DIY for the 525i (AFAIK).

Here's what (little) the Bentley says about the four steps:
1. Remove air filter housing (Bentley 121-15, not too bad)
2. Remove alternator drive belt (Bentley 020-16, almost wholly useless)
3. Remove radiator fan and shroud (Bentley 170-14, nearly useless)
4. Remove alternator (Bentley 121-15, pretty sparse, but probably usable)

1. Alternator removing & installing (6 cylinder engine) page 121-15
Note: The alternator removal instructions aren't too bad; they don't show many pics; but they describe the tasks ...
- Disconnect negative battery cable
- Remove complete air filter housing
* Loosen intake duct hose clamp at throttle assembly
* Loosen clamp and remove idle control hose from intake duct
* Disconnect idle speed control valve harness connector
* Disconnect harness connector from mass air flow sensor
* Remove air filter housing mounting screw
* Disconnect vent tube
* Loosen air intake duct clamp
* Lift air filter housing out of engine bay

2. Remove alternator drive belt (see page 020-16)
NOTE: These Bentley alternator belt removal instructions are almost useless!
* The inner, longer drive belt turns the alternator, waterpump, and power steering pump
* The outer, shorter drive belt turns the AC compressor
* 32mm cooling fan nut has left hand threads
* If necessary, remove fan cowl from radiator
* Use long-handled wrench to turn A/C belt tensioner release lug clockwise against spring tension
* Remove AC belt
* Similarly turn main engine drive belt tensioner lub clockwise and remove belt (presumably the longer belt)
* Some models have a dust cover over belt tensioner release lug, which must be pried off prior to removing belt

3. Remove radiator cooling fan and fan shroud (see page 170-14)
Note: These Bentley instructions are horrible for removal of the fan and shroud!
* It is possible to remove the fan without the shroud
* From the top of fan shroud, remove expansion tank bleed screw
* Remove expansion tank locking tabs
* Push top of expansion tank oward engine and lift to free from lower mounts
* Remove two expansion rivets in upper corners of fan shroud
* Unclip expansion tank bleed hose located under shroud
* Remove rubber trim strip between top of shroud and radiator
* Using 32mm wrench on fan clutch nut, turn wrench clockwise (working from front of car) with BMW special tool 11 5 040
* At the same time, counterhold pulley (which pulley?) with BMW special tool 11 5 030
* The radiator cooling fan 32 mm nut has left-hand threads
* For M54 engines, unclip AUC air quality sensor from shroud
* Disconnect auxiliary coolant pump from base of fan shroud (what is this?)
* Lift fan and shroud together out of engine compartment
* To replace fan clutch, remove fan mounting bolts and separate viscous clutch from fan

4. Remove alternator (Bentley page 121-15)
- Unbolt power steering fluid reservoir and bracket & suspend
- Disconnect alternator air-cooling hose
- Disconnect wiring from rear of alternator
- Remove upper alternator mounting bolt
- Remove lower alternator mounting bolt
- If idler pulley interferes, remove pulley cover & retaining bolt

As you can see, the Bentleys are really lousy. They don't provide pictures, they skip what looks like a half dozen steps at a time, and unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a 535i -specific DIY extant. For example, the Bentley says "disconnect auxiliary coolant pump" but it doesn't even provide a picture. I didn't even know we had an auxiliary coolant pump at the base of the fan shroud, for example. I would think a picture would be appropriate. Likewise, the instructions for the belt removal are almost wholly useless. Frustrating this is.

Anyway, this is a start. I think the Bentleys are terrible for this though. I'm going to look at some of the DIYs now to get clues.


Last edited by bluebee; 08-17-2010 at 08:32 PM.
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  #40  
Old 07-27-2010, 09:55 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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In brief, the Bentleys are just being redundant to a T.

You need to get all the air-filter related bits out of the way... You need to remove the fan/shroud (and all that that entails) simply to be able to remove the belt and unbolt the alternator-related bits.

The auxiliary pump. If you have one, it should be clamped to the lower left (driver-side) corner of the fan shroud along with attached hoses; these all have to be slipped out of the shroud so that you can pull the shroud up and out of there (with the unbolted clutch fan). It's small but easy to see from underneath if you have the bottom cover off.... Do it once and you'll be the master.
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  #41  
Old 07-27-2010, 09:57 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
Jif the car loses power...the instrument cluster/OBC "RE-LOCKS" itself
Hi QSilver7,
Thanks for reading that post and noticing that subtlety.

It was confusing to me that it was locked, since I KNEW I had unlocked it for the Koolaid Temperatur test. This morning, I reran the test, this time rev'ing up to about 3K rpm and allowing the requisite 15 seconds for the alternator to get into the groove. It didn't matter.

First, I reconnected the battery, then I turned the ignition to the first position, then I held the Check (aka CC) button for ten seconds until the first test prompt showed up; I stepped through to the 9th test; it was locked so I pressed the RESET button the requisite number of times to unlock based on the sum of the last five digits of my VIN; and then I started the car, snapping pictures of the voltage. It dropped and stayed at about 11.6 even after fifteen seconds at 3K rpm.

At this point, I'm pretty sure it's the alternator drive system. Could be the belt slipping. Could be a broken pulley. Probably is the alternator. My problem now is getting the parts. And taking it all apart correctly, and writing the DIY for other 525i owners to benefit. So any help you give will end up in the DIY for 525i owners!

I wonder if I can drive 25 miles or so on the fully-charged battery?

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Last edited by bluebee; 07-27-2010 at 11:08 AM.
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  #42  
Old 07-27-2010, 10:02 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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bluebee,

To replace the Alternator:

1. D/C battery positive terminal in the trunk

2. Air mass-Air Filter Housing Off (a few screws).

3. 32-mm Thin wrench to undo the Fan Clutch and set it inside the Fan Shroud.
(No need to take it out).

4. Apply Clockwise tension of the Tensioner to remove the drive belt.
Check your tensioner with a mirror to see if you have Allen or Torx head.

5. D/C red cable on the back of Alternator (13-mm nut).
Also D/C rectangular connector in the back.

6. Undo the PS Reservoir (13-mm) and set it aside.
No need to disconnect any hoses.



7. Alternator is held by two (2) 16-mm bolts. The UPPER bolt also holds the idler pulley.
NOTE: It swivels around the LOWER bolt so wiggle it a bit to remove it.
It is a tight fit in the LOWER bolt, so tug on it to remove it.



That is it.

Torque (IIRC):
M8 bolts: 22 Nm
M10 bolts: 33 Nm

Linky:
[http://wwww.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?p=4719959

Last edited by cn90; 07-27-2010 at 10:03 AM.
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  #43  
Old 07-27-2010, 12:25 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Air mass-Air Filter Housing Off (a few screws).
Yeah. A few screws. Easy for you to say. You've done it. You even wrote the DIY for your model year. Even after doing it (see below), I don't understand the instructions in the Bentley. These lines (from the Bentley) below make no sense to me!

* Loosen clamp and remove idle control hose from intake duct
* Disconnect idle speed control valve harness connector

Anyway, like Frankie back in good ole' NYC, I did it my way, and documented the steps here (copious pictures to follow later).

Steps to remove your air cleaner in preparation to remove the alternator in a 2002 BMW 525i:
- Set up your computer in your work area with Internet access to Bimmerfest
- Grab a box of nitrile gloves and a solvent cleaner & roll of paper towels
- Disconnect both battery cables with a 10mm box wrench (to be safe)
- Optional: Put battery on a charger of less than 16.5V, 6amps capacity
- Remove complete air filter housing
* Loosen intake duct hose clamp at throttle assembly with a 3/16th flathead
(or, better yet as I belatedly learned, with a 6mm socket on an extension)
* Spread plastic clip to remove remove 1/4" idle control hose from intake duct
* Spread open two metal clips holding mass air flow sensor
* I tried to disconnect idle speed control valve harness connector but
I just can't find it, not from the Bentley pictures, nor from looking
* Disconnect harness connector from mass air flow sensor (press & pull)
* Remove air filter housing mounting screw with a 10mm socket or box wrench
* Disconnect vent tube by pulling back on the soft rubber with your hands
* Loosen air intake duct clamp with a 3/16ths flathead screwdriver
* I had to remove the MAF sensor housing in order to gain room
* I had to remove the engine air filter in order to gain leverage
* I had to twist the hard plastic vent tube out of the way to gain room
* Nobody tells you there is an unclamped hose at the BOTTOM of the
engine side of the air intake hose just after the MAF that holds it all up!
* Since there was no clamp on that bottom hose, I was on my own
(no instructions in the Bentleys mentioned any of this!)
* I elected to remove the two hose clamps near the engine on the large
3-inch air intake hose with a 3/16ths flathead screwdriver (or better yet,
with a 6mm socket on a 1/4 inch ratchet driver handle)
* Only after loosening those additional two hose clamps was I able to lift
the engine air intake up and back over the engine.
* This engine air intake is still connected to the engine by a pair of
what looks like vacuum hoses which I couldn't get loose for fear of
breaking the plastic nipple, so I left it all connected draped over
the engine
* Optional: I dumped leaf remnants out of the air filter housing inlet
* Optional: I put the 10mm bolt back so as not to lose it
* Optional: I tightened the three hose clamps so as to not lose them
in the ensuing battle; it was then that I realized a 6mm
socket on a 1/4" socket handle would have been easier than
the screwdriver (and updated the appropriate step above)
* Optional: While the MAF was removed, I hit it with a dozen pulses of
special MAF cleaner (aka xylene) and let air dry
* For the first time, I was able to feel the alternator belt tension,
which felt solid

Note: I still don't know if I was supposed to disconnect those two small
hoses still connected, or if I was supposed to pull on the one-inch
wide hose w/o a clamp that is still connected under the MAF closer
to the engine. But the air cleaner is off and to the side for now.

There is decidedly only one electrical harness connector despite the Bentleys being clear that there are two (one for the MAF and one for something that doesn't exist called the "idle speed control valve harness connector").

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Last edited by bluebee; 07-27-2010 at 12:35 PM.
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  #44  
Old 07-27-2010, 12:44 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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bluebee,

Forget what Bentley says.

The picture you posted above shows you that you are already 60% of your way through!
The alternator is in plain sight!
Just follow the Steps 1-7 as I mentioned above and you should be fine.

Then post an autopsy picture of the alternator!
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  #45  
Old 07-27-2010, 02:05 PM
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supradupe supradupe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Doing some research, REALOEM lists the 120 amp alternator as part number 12317501599 for $561. However, a remanufactured Bosch 120 amp alternator is easy to find at roughly $175 (plus tax & shipping); but I may take up cn90's advice and go for the rebuild when I figure out what is really wrong with diagnostic tests (it could be the belts, for instance). Time to parts will be a major consideration ... as is the troubleshooting and R&R procedure.
If you have got close to 100k miles with this alternator, my recommendation is to just get the remanufactured one and be done with it. Don't bother to rebuild on your own. There are several things that will fail in an alternator.
1. bearings (probably not your current problem)
2. voltage regulator (most likely the culprit)
3. rectifier diodes (they do die with age, and heat)

I learn this the hard way. Rebuilt my bosch alternator (with 99k miles on it, in a ML320) last year, replaced with new bearings, new voltage regulator. Only to find out it dies after 1 year. The autopsy shows that the rectifier diodes are not converting ac to dc. Also please note that the rectifier assembly is not widely available so when it dies, you are pretty much stuck with a rebuilt or a brand new alternator.

If you insist on rebuilt, there is a great DIY bosch rebuild from some range rover guy. Search the web and you shall find it. Two bearings plus voltage regulator will run you close to $100. Also your time, you will need a small 2 prong puller to pull the internal small bearing out. Everything is in plain sight and pretty straight forward. But like I said, your rebuild may last a short time and problem persits when the rectifier diodes are dead.

Also, fyi, the remanufactured alternators from REMY, they are very likely bosch units. If you see the website that shows REMY remanufactured alternator, there is a 99% change you will get a remanufactured unit that has all the bosch shell and guts, down to the regulator.

To sum up, it will be time better spent to just replace with a remanufactured unit and get on with your life.
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  #46  
Old 07-27-2010, 02:09 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
The alternator is in plain sight!
Just follow the Steps 1-7 as I mentioned above
Yeah, easy for you to day (you've done it before).

I am going to replace both belts so I think I have to remove the fan shroud, right?

I tried to remove the fan clutch nut w/o removing the fan shroud; but so far no luck. That's another reason I might remove the fan shroud. Right?

As for the auxiliary water pump, is this picture of an electrical liquid thing on the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side that auxiliary water pump?

I'm so frustrated because (a) I've never done this before, and (b) the Bentleys are wrong wrong wrong, and (c) there is no 1:1 DIY for the 525i.

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  #47  
Old 07-27-2010, 02:17 PM
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supradupe supradupe is offline
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Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Yeah, easy for you to day (you've done it before).

I am going to replace both belts so I think I have to remove the fan shroud, right?

I
No need to remove fan shroud or fan clutch. you can loop the belt out of the fan. There is enough space to do so. I have a 525 and did it this way. Look carefully and you shall find the way.
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  #48  
Old 07-27-2010, 02:27 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Originally Posted by supradupe View Post
No need to remove fan shroud or fan clutch.
Are you sure I don't have to remove the fan clutch nut to replace both belts and get the alternator out? Most DIYs (admittedly for other years) say we need at least to remove the fan clutch nut.

Well, it might have to be that way anyway because I must be doing something wrong as my fan clutch nut won't budge. This is what I'm trying (see below).

My carpenter's hammer is hitting the end of the 32mm fan clutch nut wrench while I have the holding tool on two of the bolt heads on the fan clutch itself, but, it won't budge.

Any ideas?

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  #49  
Old 07-27-2010, 02:32 PM
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supradupe supradupe is offline
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we have the same model car, I did it without taking anything out. Once you slacken the belt, take it out of the track, you will loop it over the fan, into the space between the fan and fan shroud. then you will be able to take it out from there. trust me. careful observation is the key. You will need to turn the fan by hand, a blade at a time to completely get the belt out into the space between the shroud and the fan.
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Last edited by supradupe; 07-27-2010 at 02:34 PM.
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  #50  
Old 07-27-2010, 02:47 PM
xraye39 xraye39 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supradupe View Post
we have the same model car, I did it without taking anything out. Once you slacken the belt, take it out of the track, you will loop it over the fan, into the space between the fan and fan shroud. then you will be able to take it out from there. trust me. careful observation is the key. You will need to turn the fan by hand, a blade at a time to completely get the belt out into the space between the shroud and the fan.
Supradupe, yes it can be done with fan on but you have to be nimble and it definitely helps if you are handy with engines, it may be easier for her to just take the fan off.

Bluebee, the beisian site has a good step by step on fan and shroud removal, taking the alternator off is pretty easy once fan and shroud are out of the way.

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
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