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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 11-18-2010, 10:26 PM
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dvsgene just posted a very nice list of the hoses you will want to consider replacing so I repeat his list here:

- Passenger lower Radiator to Water Pump 11531741409
- Expansion tank Hose to Manifold CRP 11531741404
- Upper Radiator Hose 11531745595
- Vent Hose expansion to radiator 17111427156
- Hose F Engine Inlet & Water Valve 64218391005
- Hose F Radiator & Engine Return 64218391013
- Hose F Water Valve & Right Radiator 64218391017
- Hose F Water Valve & Left Radiator 64218367929

I'm not sure if those part numbers apply to all hoses, but it's a nicely sorted list of the 8 hoses you'll want to replace so that THIS doesn't happen!

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  #52  
Old 11-18-2010, 10:42 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
- Passenger lower Radiator to Water Pump 11531741409
- Expansion tank Hose to Manifold CRP 11531741404
- Upper Radiator Hose 11531745595
- Vent Hose expansion to radiator 17111427156
- Hose F Engine Inlet & Water Valve 64218391005
- Hose F Radiator & Engine Return 64218391013
- Hose F Water Valve & Right Radiator 64218391017
- Hose F Water Valve & Left Radiator 64218367929

I'm not sure if those part numbers apply to all hoses, but it's a nicely sorted list of the 8 hoses you'll want to replace so that THIS doesn't happen!
These are for the early V8s. The great thing about these earlier hoses is they use simple worm gear hose clamps you can get at any home Depot or hardware store not those annoying built in connectors on the later hoses.

So basically for the M62 engine.
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  #53  
Old 12-28-2010, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
In the entire E39 search, I couldn't find a specification for just the green O-ring that everyone says fails ... but searching outside the E39 cars, I do find the E46 guys have been active in finding replacements for the $1 O-ring (either made of Viton or Buna N material).

I opened an E39 thread specifically asking someone to MEASURE their new coolant temperature sensor O-ring ... and I'll add the part number I found to the post above for recommended parts for a cooling system overhaul.

I think the O-ring part number is: 13.62.1.743.299



REFERENCES:
- Coolant Temp Sensor O-Ring is a BMW Part Number
- DIY - Temp. sensor coolant leak repair
- E46 Cooling system temperature sensor part number
- Replacing the coolant temperature sensor DIY
- Recommended parts list for a cooling system overhaul
- E46 lower radiator hose coolant temperature sensor
- BrassCraft 0567 replacement for coolant temperature sensor o ring
- BrassCraft and Viton replacements for coolant temperature sensor o-ring
- Coolant temperature sensor o-ring dimensions
- Replace coolant temperature sensor o-ring with viton from macro rubber
Hello Donna. Found the O-ring for the temp sensor here - 1.25$. It's genuine BMW.
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  #54  
Old 01-23-2011, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
Found the O-ring for the temp sensor here - 1.25$. It's genuine BMW.
This is a wonderful find!

You gotta love those ECS Tuning guys!

Time and time again, they devise a way to solve our needs!

BTW, isn't it a "replacement o-ring for the thermoswitch" and not for the "temperature sensor"?

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Last edited by bluebee; 01-23-2011 at 07:57 AM.
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  #55  
Old 02-21-2011, 09:02 PM
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While you're getting o-rings, the o-ring to use for the DISA is listed here:
- Where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1)

And, for those of you contemplating a belt-drive overhaul, notice these pictures posted today where the idler roller broke off the bolt!

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  #56  
Old 03-02-2011, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
RECOMMENDED BELT-DRIVE SYSTEM PARTS LIST:
Just for the record, I doubt many of us would "recommend" replacing "just" the mechanical pulley ... but ... since the question came up recently here:
- Check my pulleys?

To be complete, you "can" replace just the pulley on the mechanical tensioner:
- What is the part number for "just" the mechanical tensioner pulley?

Dayco #89133

Also, you "can" replace your mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic tensioner:
- WHY would a hydraulic belt tensioner be any quieter than a mechanical belt tensioner?

More information about the mechanical tensioner spring is here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
The tensioner spring will out last three pulleys. Just get the pulley, put a couple drops of Tri-flow lub, you are as good as new
And, for the bearings themselves, look here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by WagonTheDog View Post
An interesting discussion on bearing grease: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1273667

I didn't drill down and identify the actual bearing by part number, I just spoke to a friend of mine in industrial sales who advised me that one of these two mfgs would definitely have it, or an equivalent:

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/p...g=en&newlink=9
or
http://www.astbearings.com/



Last edited by bluebee; 03-03-2011 at 12:27 AM.
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  #57  
Old 03-05-2011, 02:23 PM
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Bluebee - thanks for all the info (I'll thank CN90 later)

I'm preparing for cooling system overhaul, and have spent hours reading all the related posts I could find, and still have a question:

Should I use any sealant on the thermostat housing & housing bolts? One thread used black silicone if the head was in rough shape.

On other cars I've always used Permatex (II I think is the non-hardening kind), but I don't recall seeing this covered.

Thks in advance
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  #58  
Old 03-05-2011, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexgo View Post
Should I use any sealant on the thermostat housing & housing bolts?
I had asked the same question but for my 2002 525i (where the thermostat and plastic housing are a single unit).

The answer came back emphatically "no" (by all whom I asked who should know).

But I don't have a clue if the 97 528i is similar so the question needs be answered by someone else. Sorry.

See: BMW oils, lubricants, sealants, & thread lockers (pdf) (gif).


Last edited by bluebee; 04-05-2011 at 05:30 PM.
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  #59  
Old 03-06-2011, 10:12 AM
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Wish i saw this thread months ago. My temp sensor kept leaking so we used teflon plumbers tape to add to the O-ring and that fixed it
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  #60  
Old 03-07-2011, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z168 View Post
Wish i saw this thread months ago.
The good news is that future users will benefit, even if you didn't!

When we researched for this thread, we went back a few years (to about 2009) to gather the complete list of cooling system parts to buy when doing an overhaul.

For the record, an old thread from 2006, resurrected today by someone, shows a nice parts list for a cooling system overhaul for a 2000 528i:
- Thermostat replacement....diy

I wish I had had that parts list below when I did this thread!

So that future users benefit, I include it below:

*******>********>
Part NumberBrand / DescriptionDescriptionPriceQtyTotal
17111436381Behr Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir$67.54 1$67.54
11531438632Metzeler Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir Hose$23.98 1$23.98
11531438633BMW (OE) Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir Hose; Expansion Tank to Additional Water Pump$22.98 1$22.98
17111712963BMW (OE) Fan Shroud Rivet/Fastener; Plastic Expanding Rivet For 8mm Hole, 15mm Diameter Face$0.23 2$0.46
82141467704BMW (OE) Miscellaneous Fluids/Treatments; BMW Antifreeze; 1 Gallon$23.57 2$47.14
17111436060Nissens Radiator$129.95 1$129.95
11531705224BMW (OE) Radiator Hose; Lower with Temperature Sensor Fitting$22.66 1$22.66
99000003352BMW (OE) Radiator Hose; Radiator Vent Hose Fitting Nipple$1.60 1$1.60
11531705223BMW (OE) Radiator Hose; Upper with Bleeder Screw Fitting$23.50 1$23.50
17111427156Elaplast Radiator Hose; Vent Hose from Radiator to Expansion Tank$5.58 1$5.58
5PK0863 Conti-Contitech Serpentine Belt/Ribbed Drive Belt; A/C Compressor$9.59 1$9.59
6PK1538 Conti-Contitech Serpentine Belt/Ribbed Drive Belt; Alternator/Power Steering/Water Pump$16.58 1$16.58
11530139877Wahler Thermostat; Thermostat Kit with Housing and Seal$53.74 1$53.74





$425.30
EXTRAS




17111712788Vaico Coolant Bleeder Screw; At Expansion Tank/Radiator - Reuse old one if in good condition$3.42 1$3.42
17111723580BMW (OE) Coolant Bleeder Screw; Mounting Clip for Expansion Tank - Reuse old one if in good condition$1.78 1$1.78
17111742231Reutter/CRP-Continental Radiator Cap/Expansion Tank Cap; 2.0 Bar - Reuse old one if in good condition$8.80 1$8.80
17111737706BMW (OE) Radiator Mount; Lower Left Radiator Mounting Bracket - Reuse old one if in good condition$7.75 1$7.75
17111737707BMW (OE) Radiator Mount; Lower Right Radiator Mounting Bracket - Reuse old one if in good condition$7.95 1$7.95
17112246750BMW (OE) Radiator Mount; Rubber Lower Mount- Reuse old one if in good condition$12.13 2$24.26
11537509357VictorReinz Thermostat Gasket/Seal; Thermostat Housing to Block - New pump should have gasket$4.20 1$4.20
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  #61  
Old 03-11-2011, 01:07 AM
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There is a very good discussion of the various cooling system overhaul parts to consider replacing in this 2-part video referenced today by bobdmac:

BMW Cooling System Failure Points, Part 1 (e36, e46, e34, e39):


BMW Cooling System Failure Points, Part 2 (e36, e46, e34, e39):
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  #62  
Old 03-21-2011, 06:52 PM
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For the record, someone asked today a relevant question:
- how many heater hoses do we have?

I suspect the answer is "it depends" on a few factors:
- Model & year & engine
- Transmission

I calculated my 2002 525i automatic has eight (8) cooling system hoses that can fail at any time (not counting the air conditioning, power steering, and automatic transmission hoses which don't carry coolant). Does this seem accurate?


Last edited by bluebee; 03-21-2011 at 07:18 PM.
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  #63  
Old 04-03-2011, 10:12 AM
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In another thread today, cn90 kindly listed the o-ring part number for those who wish (for whatever reason) to just replace the water pump o-ring:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > 02' e39 Water pump gasket?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
The PN for WP O-ring for all I6 engines of the E39 is 11511711484, $4-5 at dealer.
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  #64  
Old 04-05-2011, 05:29 PM
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And, it looks like people are also looking for a source of the upper and lower radiator hose o-rings:
- need oring for lower radiator hose
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  #65  
Old 04-12-2011, 03:26 PM
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This summary of what to look for in the cooling system to replace was written for the E34 but it applies equally well to the E39 and is great reading!
- E34 (1989 - 1995) > Mechanical things you need to know about your E34 - UPDATED 3/22/11

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Cooling system

Do not let your engine overheat !!! This cannot be stressed enough. If it gets to the red zone, it is in danger of major damage including a blown head gasket and/or a cracked head. This is a very difficult DIY and very expensive if done by a mechanic. The E34's cooling systems is its Achilles heel.

- One may want to consider a complete cooling system overhaul every 100K miles or so. The best case scenario is replacement of the radiator, belts, hoses, pulleys, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, fan clutch, fan, radiator cap and bleed screw. Of note here, there is a special fan holding tool that is invaluable to removing the fan assembly. A 32 mm wrench is required for the large nut holding the fan clutch to the water pump shaft. This is a reverse threaded nut, so the wrench has to be turned clockwise to loosen the nut. The holding tool and wrench can be obtained online for about $30-$35. It is money well spent. Believe me, I know because I ruined a water pump pulley trying to use the inappropriate tools. A regular coolant system flush can help stave off some of the problems. A coolant system overhaul is not a difficult DIY on the E34. Please see post # 10 for two very good videos on the BMW coolant system (thanks Bluebee ) While the E34 is not listed, virtually every single thing in the videos apply. The only real difference is the location of the bleed screws. In fact, the radiator in the second video appears to actually be an E34 radiator.

- Some of the parts of the cooling system from the factory are made of plastic that, over time, will fail. The upper radiator neck is a common breakage point. The plastic bleed screw can fail/break easily. Be careful not to over tighten the bleed screw as it should not take a lot of torque to get it to seal. Brass replacement bleed screws are available that are very nice looking and will not break.

- If replacing the fan, it is universally recommended that you only use the oem fan as the aftermarket ones are of inadequate quality and are prone to breaking apart. The fan clutch is an item that can fail. When new (and the engine off and cold), the fan clutch turns like the internals of the clutch are like molasses. If it turns with virtually no resistance or it will hardly turn at all, then it is time to replace it.

- The factory water pump comes with a plastic impeller that over time will disintegrate and cause an overheat situation. There are water pumps available with a metal impeller as well as ones available with a composite impeller. It is a universally accepted recommendation that the plastic impeller water pump be replaced with the metal impeller water pump. There is also a high flow water pump that is pricey, but is reported to flow much more coolant. It is commonly used in racing situations. The thermostat housing is made of plastic and there are aftermarket aluminum housings available. The design of the thermostat housing is such that a sealant is not required if all mating surfaces are smooth, straight and properly cleaned. However, premium high temp thermostat gasket sealant can safely be used as an extra measure (thanks LD), just be sure to not use too much as it may get into the coolant system. The t-stat for the E34 comes in three different temperature ratings, 80, 88 and 92 degree Celsius. My recommendation would be to replace with the one that came in the car from the factory. Some opine that lower temp t-stats allow the engine to run cooler. Others say it only allows the engine to cool sooner because it opens at lower temps. Do your research as the jury is out on this one.

- BMW recommends its brand of coolant only, but it is pricey. Some suggest that you can safely use less expensive coolant that is green and has a sweet odor. This can aid in visual discoveries of leakage as well as being more apt to smell coolant if it is leaking. Many have had good experiences with the lesser expensive brands. There is a very detailed thread on this here : http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=523954

- Many feel that bleeding the coolant system is as difficult as brain surgery, but if done according to the Bentley manual, it is not difficult and can be done in one to two bleeds. Of note, the 540 reportedly has a self-bleeding system. One key is to make sure your heater is on full hot and the fan is on maximum. You can also elevate the front end 6 inches or so to help the air move up and out of the system. A sign of a coolant system that has not been completely bled is an overheat situation in combination with no/little heat from the heater.

- If allowed to overheat, the head gasket can fail and/or the head can crack. If this happens, it is bad. Signs include an engine that continues to overheat and loose coolant despite topping off. Of course, if one just loses coolant, the one should examine the entire system for a leak. Other signs include milky looking oil, oil in the radiator, bubbles in the expansion tank when the engine is running and large amounts of steam coming from the exhaust pipe. A compression test and/or bleed down test are two of the more definitive tests for a blown head gasket and/or cracked head. The oil and coolant can also be sent off to be analyzed.
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  #66  
Old 04-14-2011, 12:13 AM
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I'm still doing hours and hours of research for a comprehensive list of parts (and other things) for the CCV overhaul.
- How to understand & test the CCV & order the right parts for an overhaul (1)

Putting together all the recommendations in the following CCV cold-weather overhaul parts lists:
• Cold-weather CCV parts list for M54 from Mark at EACTuning
• Generic CCV parts list first attempt by Bluebee
• CCV parts list from Edgy36-39 in Fudman DIY
• CCV parts list spreadsheet from VitaminXX
• CCV parts list from Jason5driver (includes air distribution piece)
• Parts list including CCV cold weather kit from rdl

Here is where I end up (tentatively) for the team to kindly review:

RECOMMENDED PARTS FOR A COLD-WEATHER CCV OVERHAUL:
  1. Pressure regulating valve (insulated cold-weather version, 11617533400 = $66)
  2. Vent pipe (insulated cold-weather version, 11617533398 = $28)
  3. Connecting line (insulated cold-weather version, 11617533399 = $34)
  4. Vent hose (insulated cold-weather version, 11157532629 = $15)
  5. Return pipe (stock version is already insulated, 11617504536 = $34)
  6. Dipstick guide tube (redesigned version sans concentric rings, 11437531258 = $41)
  7. Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring (19.5x3mm, 11431740045 = $2)
  8. Vacuum hose black (not on all E39s = $15, e.g., not on the M54)
Note: There is a 3-component 'cold weather CCV kit', PN 11617534237, (EAC Tuning $110, BMW Parts Source $93) which contains:
• $66 Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version)
• $34 Connecting line (cold weather version)
• $15 Vent hose (cold weather version?)

Ancillary items to consider replacing when doing a CCV overhaul:
• Air distribution piece PN 11611440318 $58.23 (see reference here)
• Set of intake manifold profile gaskets PN 11611436631 $63.30 (see reference here)
• Throttle body housing gasket PN (see reference here)
• Valve cover gasket PN (see reference here)

Would the team kindly review this list, including the 'while-you're-there' additional parts to order?
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  #67  
Old 05-10-2011, 10:20 AM
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In this thread:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Replacing Expansion tank... What else do I order?

Agent15 kindly noted an error in the cooling system parts list in post #3 above where it says:
Quote:
c. The expansion tank comes with a plastic bleeder screw (~$2) prone to breaking in half; consider replacing with (~$4) brass aftermarket screws (same size as upper hose screw).
Quote:
Originally Posted by agent15 View Post
I wanted to clarify that was not the case when I purchased mine.
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  #68  
Old 06-27-2011, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Here is what I think is the typical recommended ... parts list for a ... cooling system overhaul
For the record, Pleiades came up with a specific hose parts list over here:
- The "rest" of the hoses for the '99 MY 528i w/auto climate control
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  #69  
Old 06-30-2011, 09:47 AM
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I belatedly realized inspection of the problematic DISA valve isn't listed in this thread as being 'part' of a major overhaul.

As Doru mentions in this thread today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Broken DISA Valve

The DISA valve should be removed & visually 'inspected' whenever you have the airbox out of the car (or at least at the 85K-90K mile point) so I also added it to the list of tandem related jobs:
- Typical tandem DIY repair jobs combined while you're already there (1)

This airbox-removal corresponds, I think, to most alternator repairs, and perhaps also most cooling system, CCV, and belt-drive overhauls.

So, moving forward, I recommend we try to remember to suggest lining up a new DISA when doing the parts for all those jobs. (Notice I said "lining up", which means just pricing it out - because it would be too expensive to replace without inspecting first.)

So that others don't make the omission that I did (in not inspecting the DISA valve when doing those overhauls), what other common repairs necessitate airbox removal?
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  #70  
Old 08-24-2011, 11:30 PM
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For the cross-linked record, today a picture of all cooling system parts was posted:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Thermostat,Fan Clutch,Bleed Screws... Finally

So I added it to the bestlinks, as shown below:
- List & picture of all the cooling system overhaul parts to replace (1) (2) (3)
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  #71  
Old 08-26-2011, 05:45 AM
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I really appreciate this research, as I'm a layman. I'm looking to give a shopping list to my mechanic to overhaul the cooling system of my new 540i 2003 w/ 114K. He is going to charge me hourly and do the parts at cost.

I used your thread to make the following list. Does this look like a good interpretation I can give him? Be nice. =) Missing anything crucial?

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  #72  
Old 08-26-2011, 08:01 AM
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Wonderful spreadsheet! I love it.
You might add a 'quantity' column, so as to avoid confusion.

I don't have hydraulic tensioners - but you apparently do (are you sure? ... see links below how to tell if you're not sure).

If both are hydraulic, then your parts are slightly more complicated than mine (mechanical tensioners come pre-assembled).

Also, to avoid confusion, I'd change the word "roller" to something clearer.

For example, googling that part number (P/N 11-28-1-748-131) locates this "Turner Motorsports" description:
So as to not confuse "roller" with "idler roller", I'd just change the name to "tensioner pulley" (which is what it appears to be).

You might also want to replace the two plastic 'rivets' that need to be popped off to remove the fan shroud.

Likewise, you'll need a solid-metal-band fuel-system-style clamp for the overflow hose that goes from the top of the expansion tank nipple to the top of the radiator nipple.

There are 'other' hoses - but I've always been confused about their exact part numbers (see links below from others who did replace them).

I'm not sure if your model BMW has the two-holes-in-the-bottom expansion tank, but, if you do, then you'll want to swap your coolant level sensor from the old tank to the new tank.

Likewise, if you have the aux fan thermoswitch in the lower radiator hose, you'll need to swap it from the old hose to the new hose - but - then you MUST buy a new O-Ring for that auxiliary fan sensor. The link is shown below.

If you don't already have it, you'll also need a thin long 32mm wrench & counterhold tool (tons of discussion on exactly what you do and don't need is shown below).

Note: The following links should cover everything you might need:
- What to look for when your KTMP (1) or coolant temperature gauge indicates overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) & what to look for in a perfectly normal E39 cooling system (1) & a picture of every failed part in the cooling system (1) & various techniques to properly bleed (1) (2) (3) & refill (1) & drain (1) (2) & flush (1) & what coolant to use (1) & what parts to replace (1) (2) & how to retrofit brass bleeder screws (1) (2) & what special tools to make or buy (1) & how to tell how old your cooling system is (1) (2) & how to test the cooling system auxiliary electrical fan (1) (2) (3) (4) & a DIY for replacing the auxilliary fan (1) (2) (3) & the infamous fuse 75 (1) & the aux fan relay (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1) & a Behr radiator and Behr/Heat expansion tank autopsy (1) (2) & request for another Behr surge tank autopsy (1) & why new made-in-China Behr/Hella expansion tanks are DOA (1) & E39 Fan shroud removal DIY (Besian) (M54) & some of the better cooling system DIYs (cn90 1997-1998 M54TU) (cn90 V8) (aioros '99-03 M54) (Εgent99 '01 530i) (pelican 3-series) (bluebee M54B25) & tricks to replace the fan clutch nut (1) & lower-hose thermoswitch o-ring (1) & to non-destructively remove the heater hoses (1) or radiator nipple (1) or expansion tank nipple (1) (2) or Oetiker clamp (1) or misplaced thermostat wiring loom (1) or broken bleeder screw (1) & modifying the cooling system pressure cap (1), or using propanol-based zero-pressure fluids like NPG+ (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) or all-aluminum cooling system parts by Zionsville (1) (2) (3) aluminum radiators & what happens if you drive one mile too far with an overheated BMW cooling system (1).
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Last edited by bluebee; 08-26-2011 at 08:10 AM.
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  #73  
Old 08-29-2011, 05:03 PM
dem1an dem1an is offline
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Posts: 10
Mein Auto: United States
Sorry I haven't had a chance to get back to this thread. I was out of town this weekend and started a new job today, but I will this week!
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  #74  
Old 08-30-2011, 04:16 PM
dem1an dem1an is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Wonderful spreadsheet! I love it.
You might add a 'quantity' column, so as to avoid confusion.

I don't have hydraulic tensioners - but you apparently do (are you sure? ... see links below how to tell if you're not sure).

If both are hydraulic, then your parts are slightly more complicated than mine (mechanical tensioners come pre-assembled).

Also, to avoid confusion, I'd change the word "roller" to something clearer.
I just used the parts list and example from the 528i in your original post. I spent some time cross-checking part numbers against autohausaz.com. Thoughts?


Last edited by dem1an; 08-30-2011 at 05:53 PM.
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  #75  
Old 09-02-2011, 04:17 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Posts: 22,080
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
I think that spreadsheet is great!

It will be a boon to others.

In addition, we should probably add a column to it which shows which parts are critical and which are nice to replace in general.

Toward that end, vetaldj today posted the 'critical-parts' list over here:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > 97 e39 water pump replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by vetaldj View Post
I think we need to create (if we still didn't) list of the most critical part to replace. Of course all is the best but some folks (including myself) can't change all in once.
From my observation here the most critical parts are:

1. WP. if it gone it will take lots of other stuff so it's critical to change.
2. Fan blades. If it gone it can take lots of other stuff so it's also critical to change
3. Clutch. If it gone it can take lots of other stuff so it's also critical to change
4. Thermostat. Maybe not so critical but if you do WP it's easy and cheap fix.
5. Thermostat housing (this is the same as the thermostat in the M54 engine).
5. Coolant tank. Can leak but even in this case it's not critical to do, just need to check fluids regularly.
6. Radiator. Same as coolant tank, can leak but you can address those issues if you check under the hood regularly.
7. Hoses. Cheap and easy, just need to have spare in the trunk.

So, what do you guys think about that list? Personally I agree that changing all is the best but...
However, here's my take on a group modification of that list:

CRITICAL COOLING SYSTEM ITEMS:
  1. Radiator
  2. Expansion tank & pressure cap
  3. Upper & Lower Radiator hoses
  4. Fan clutch
  5. Thermostat (which is integral to the housing in some cases)
  6. Thermostat housing (when it's not integral with the thermostat)
  7. Water pump
Improvement requested.

Last edited by bluebee; 09-02-2011 at 08:49 PM.
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