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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 09-02-2011, 02:36 PM
dem1an dem1an is offline
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Here is the revised list. I changed it to 1 bleeder screw and added the timing chain tensioner. I also added the critical column. When we are done we'll figure out to share the file.

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  #77  
Old 09-02-2011, 07:51 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Absolutely beautiful!

We just added the "expansion tank pressure cap" to the critical list (based on the other thread).

And, Quick99Si has done a great job making BMW factory & dealer tools available via his FTP site so maybe he can host this spreadsheet?
- Making sense of ADS, EDIABAS, INPA, NCS, NFS, GT1/DIS, Progman, ISIS, WinKPT, Carsoft
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  #78  
Old 10-05-2011, 09:18 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Based on cn90's recommendation today in this thread:
- How not to change your oil in your E39 (stripped drain plug)

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I have learned this the hard way over the years. Now for every car I have at home, I always go to dealer (it does not matter if it is a BMW, Toyota, Honda, or Volvo etc.) and buy a spare drain plug and store it in the glovebox to save you time/hassle later.

How does this look as a recommended parts list for changing your oil?
  • Oil filter (Mann HU925, Mahle, Hengst E106H D34, or BMW P/N 11427512300)
  • Oil filter cap O-ring (91x4mm) <-- often comes with the filter
  • Oil drain plug copper crush washer (A12X17-CU, BMW P/N 07119963151) <-- often comes with the oil filter
  • Hollow oil pan drain bolt (M12x1.5x18, BMW P/N 11131273093) <-- different (solid) bolt for the V8 <-- what size & PN? (BTW, order two!)
  • Two oil filter stem o-rings (7x2.5, BMW P/N 11421744001) <-- replace every five years or so
  • Two dipstick handle o-rings (9x2.2, BMW P/N 11431717666)<-- replace every five years or so
  • 6.9 quarts of motor oil for the I6, 8 quarts for the V8 (BMW LL 2001-approved or equivalent)
NOTE: Pictures are from this thread ...





Note: At the same time you change your oil, some recommend you suction out about 8 ounces (250 ml) of the power steering fluid and replace with Dexron III (realistically Dexron VI) ATF:
- Recommendation to replace power steering fluid at every oil change & periodically clean the PSF filter (1)

So, another related parts list could be:
  • Dexron VI ATF (buy 1 quart)
  • T20 Torx driver (to loosen the filter screen)
  • Power steering fluid reservoir cap o-ring (BMW PN 32 41 1 128 333)
  • Power steering hose clamps <-- often you cut off the old clamps, and a half-inch of hose & reclamp to fix leaks
NOTE: Pictures are from this thread...



NOTE: Here is the alternative 'sock mod' in lieu of replacing the power steering fluid reservoir o-ring:

Last edited by bluebee; 10-05-2011 at 09:31 AM.
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  #79  
Old 03-19-2012, 08:36 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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A nice cooling system overhaul parts list was posted today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cooling system! be safe than sorry?

Quote:
Originally Posted by George16 View Post
Here is the list of parts, prices and sources:

Cooling system Overhaul
11281738605 Ina Idler Pulley $24.68 AutohausAZ
11511436590 Water pump pulley $22.92 AutohausAZ
11517527799 Graf water pump $56.65 AutohausAZ
11531438634 BMW coolant hose $29.45 AutohausAZ
11531705223 Radiator upper hose $25.92 AutohausAZ
11531705224 Radiator lower hose $26.54 AutohausAZ
17111427156 Vent hose from radiator to expansion tank $9.44 AutohausAZ
17111712788aft Aftermarket brass bleeder screw (qty 2) $7.68 AutohausAZ
4PK0865 Ac belt $9.77 AutohausAZ
11537509227 Thermostat with housing $58.78 OEMBimmerparts.com
2100011031 Sachs fan clutch $91.19 AutohausAZ
11281706545 Serpentine belt $17.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
32421740858 Power steering pulley $30.00 OEMBimmerparts.com
11531438632 Expansion tank hose to heater core $27.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
11531438633 Expansion tank hose to aux pump $27.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
82141467704 BMW coolant (need 5.5 quarts plus 5.5 qts distilled water $22.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
11281748832 AC tensioner $53.00 OEMBimmerparts.com
11287512758 Alternator/waterpump tensioner $53.00 OEMBimmerparts.com

VANOS Seals/Valve Cover Replacement
VANOS Seals $60.00 Beisansystems.com
11120030496 Valve cover gasket $24.27 AutohauAZ
11121437395 Valve grommet(need 15) $11.04 AutohauAZ
11361433817 VANOS cover gasket $3.59 AutohauAZ

Keep in mind that my car is a 2003 530 and yours is a 525 so other parts might not be applicable. When you go to the websites, ensure you choose the correct year and model of your car.
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #80  
Old 09-29-2012, 07:42 AM
Only1Balto Only1Balto is offline
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Thanks for all who contributed to this thread, especially you bluebee. I've got a small coolant leak somewhere and I suspect the culprit is the water pump, so having all the information here is a God send.
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  #81  
Old 12-17-2012, 04:58 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Only1Balto View Post
I suspect the culprit is the water pump
This is the list of recommended waterpumps to buy:
- What brand of waterpump to buy (1)

I just ran into this parts list from this thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ-528i View Post
I agree with cn90! While you have the fan off, overhaul the whole system. You will be thankful you did. E39 radiators are notorious for going bad around 60K miles.

Here is a cooling system overhaul part list that I made when planning my overhaul (purchased from https://www.autohausaz.com/index.html
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #82  
Old 12-19-2012, 05:45 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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There was a clarification comment on this cooling system overhaul parts list over here today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
This is also my next DIY project. I've already replaced all the tensioners and belts recently so I only need the WP, thermostat, hoses and, expansion tank, fan, fan clutch radiator. My question is should I also include the vent hose that goes from expansion tank to radiator? I do not see that listed in any of the recommended parts list. I have attached a picture. The part number is 17111427156.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
Just saw the hose I was checking for on the list. On realoem it is called vent hose while on cn90's list it is the bypass hose.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #83  
Old 12-27-2012, 07:30 PM
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BM109R BM109R is offline
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my coolant overhaul parts

So I am amassing my parts for the coolant overhaul from different sources and i have a couple of questions before I make my last order:

-From the attached image, how critical is it to change the three marked hoses? Are those known to wear out and leak to at around the same time as everything else?
-Does the nissin radiator come with a drain plug and are there any fitment issues different from OEM. Is it better than behr?

Thank you.
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  #84  
Old 12-29-2012, 09:35 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
how critical is it to change the three marked hoses?
My understanding is that most people do not change them - but it's probably a good idea to replace any and all rubber at the age of our vehicles.

But I would base any deeper assessment on a visual check and the current prices.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
Are those known to wear out and leak to at around the same time as everything else?
Looking at this thread, from an anecdotal perspective, these hoses are not unreliable:
- Pictorial look at typical E39 cooling system failure modes (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
Does the nissin radiator come with a drain plug
IIRC, mine did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
and are there any fitment issues different from OEM.
Getting the Behr out of the vehicle isn't all that difficult:
- Removal instructions for the alternator & drive belt system of a 2002 525i
- Removal instructions for the fan shroud of a 2002 525i
- Tools necessary for a cooling system overhaul
etc.

But, on the automatic I6, getting the Nissens/Behr back in is the hardest part:
- One user's cooling system overhaul: How to get the radiator back on (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
Is it better than behr?
Methinks they all stink.

Personally, I don't wish to reward Behr for making garbage - so I bought Nissens garbage instead.

Here you see what the Behr looks like inside:
- Behr radiator and Behr expansion (aka surge) tank autopsy (1) (2)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 03-29-2014 at 03:59 AM.
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  #85  
Old 03-27-2013, 03:17 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, this series of common questions was asked today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guam135i View Post
I have a E39, 525i Touring. I replaced the expansion tank a few days ago after it cracked. Now I need to replace the water pump and since Im at it I will also replace the thermostat. The car has 61K miles.

The question is, is the Stewart warner WP worth he $195? or aftremarket with metal impeller at half the price? same question for the thermostat, OEM or replacement at half the price. Since I am at it would it be a good idea to replace the plastic WP pulley with an aluminum one?

I later plan to go to a zionville cooling system which does not include the WP or the Pulley at 80K miles

Thoughts on this is appreciated
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Age old question.

Has been asked a thousand times.

Start by typing /waterpump F3 in the best links, e.g.,
- What brand of waterpump to buy (1)

If, after reading that thread, you still have questions, that is the right place to ask (so that all the erudite questions are kept together for the NEXT person to benefit).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guam135i View Post
Thanks, made the decision on the WP now any idea on the Thermostat? and plastic pulley?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Again, these questions have been often asked, so, repeating the same approach should work, shouldn't it?

For example, typing /cooling system F3 in the best links nets this, among others:
- List & picture of all the cooling system overhaul recommended parts to replace (1) (2) (3)

Likewise with typing /belt drive F3:
- Recommended parts list for a complete belt drive system overhaul (1)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #86  
Old 04-22-2013, 07:01 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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While doing suspension work, I discovered what the big boom was from the week prior. Exploded fan. I had come to stop of driving several hours, floored car hard and it sounds like my rear axle fell off and/or a huge back fire, then what sounded like something fell off of the car. My son and I looked in rear view--nothing. We continued on our way with no isssues. Week later after many miles driven and while doing an unrelated overhaul, I noticed my fan was gone! :-) Car ran fine with no overheating as well. Since replacing it, I notice the needle is ever so slightly more to left of high noon needle mark. I went with Myle clutch and generic fan coolxpert.
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  #87  
Old 04-22-2013, 07:30 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbennett9 View Post
While doing suspension work, I discovered what the big boom was from the week prior. Exploded fan. I had come to stop of driving several hours, floored car hard and it sounds like my rear axle fell off and/or a huge back fire, then what sounded like something fell off of the car. My son and I looked in rear view--nothing. We continued on our way with no isssues. Week later after many miles driven and while doing an unrelated overhaul, I noticed my fan was gone! :-) Car ran fine with no overheating as well. Since replacing it, I notice the needle is ever so slightly more to left of high noon needle mark. I went with Myle clutch and generic fan coolxpert.
Don't want to bum you out but the sourcing of these parts is critical to avoid a repetition of this event. The Behr fan clutch and OEM (dealer) fan blade are the usually recommended parts. Non-dealer sourced fan blades tend to explode like your previous fan blade. The fan failure is mostly likely due to the fan clutch failing and locking. Do a search to learn more about this.
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  #88  
Old 04-22-2013, 07:38 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Hi Fudman.

No biggie, I'm used to being bummed out. lol. I do plan on completing the cooling overhaul this summer from water pump, thermostat, hoses, etc. Maybe I'll just go and replace fan/clutch--again. :-) it's only money, right. :-) worst/best case, I ride the clutch/fan out till next summer and replace them. at least I'll be a guinea pig for longevity of these parts. I had read some on the behr clutch, but thought Myle was a very good brand.
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  #89  
Old 05-22-2013, 09:11 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, there is a good thread on locating all the cooling system hoses here today:
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Want to replace cooling system heater hoses.

See also:
- How to tell if you have mechanical or hydraulic belt tensioners (1) & how to switch from mechanical to hydraulic (1) and what is the difference between the two types (1) (2) & how to rebuild your hydraulic tensioners (1) & how to re-grease your pulleys and rollers (1) & the answer to the question of adjusting the 540i hydraulic tensioners' belt tension (1) (2)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 03-29-2014 at 04:01 AM.
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  #90  
Old 06-07-2013, 04:16 PM
Solo12 Solo12 is offline
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First of all thank you to Bluebee and all the others who have contributed to a great thread. I have some questions about the auxiliary water pump.



ID & Part #
  1. Is that the aux water pump in that pic?
  2. If it is how do I find the part number for it? I can't seem to find a part number for it on any of the parts diagrams. I wonder if that means my car (model and year) does not have it?

Replacement?
Unless I missed it in this thread no one really discussed whether this part should be replaced during a cooling overhaul. Any thoughts/input on the expected life of this part?

Also if I should be posting this question in a different thread please let me know I don't want to clutter up a great thread with a question that should go someplace else.
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E39 2003 530i: SP, CWP, PP, Manual, Sunshades, Split folding rear seats, 17" Style 42s
E28 1987 535is: Manual, Bilstein HDs, 16" Style 5v2 (from e38)[Sold]

Last edited by Solo12; 06-07-2013 at 04:21 PM.
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  #91  
Old 06-09-2013, 09:50 AM
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shaftdrive shaftdrive is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo12 View Post
Is that the aux water pump in that pic?
Yes. In reality, it's mounted vertically, on the drivers side of the radiator, on the inside edge, almost at the bottom, so the easiest access is from below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo12 View Post
how do I find the part number for it?
Unfortunately I don't know what models have it and what ones don't.
But if you type in your VIN to http://realoem.com, it should tell you if you have it.

I checked my Realoem vin and it's found in Heater and Air Conditioning Water pump, valve, hoses Hoses f pump and valve/autom.air cond.
You can google for my part number to get an idea of prices 64118381989.
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...Fck-MgodH0QARQ
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/2968...Fc9DMgodIBMA9w


Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo12 View Post
no one really discussed whether this part should be replaced during a cooling overhaul. Any thoughts/input on the expected life of this part?
I don't know anybody who has replaced it and it's not a normally replaced part in a cooling system overhaul.
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  #92  
Old 06-09-2013, 05:53 PM
Crutzy Crutzy is offline
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I don't know if anyone has suggested this yet, but for the DISA, you can get square-cross-section o-rings of almost any material you like.

For example
https://www.mfpseals.com/catalog/cat...trong-nitrile-

And, of course, you can get round-cross-section o-rings at lots of places too, for the VANOS or for other parts
1. (easy to use oring warehouse calculator)
2. the o-ring store
3. mfp seals
4. orings usa

What we need is a list of the "trade sizes" for each of the replacement orings, and the material.
1. http://www.allorings.com/size_cross_...nce_framed.htm
2. http://www.marcorubber.com/sizingchart.htm
3. http://www.broadleyjames.com/o-rings-size-chart.html

Last edited by Crutzy; 06-09-2013 at 09:17 PM.
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  #93  
Old 10-15-2013, 10:26 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, there is a discussion of the BRAND to get for cooling system hoses over here today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Lower radiator hose replacement
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #94  
Old 03-29-2014, 03:56 AM
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This recent thread by cn90 shows that we should probably replace more hoses than we normally do when we perform a cooling system overhaul:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cooling system small little hoses, your thoughts?

And this post by RDL provides information about the Dayco replacement pulley:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Belts, Tensioners & Pulley replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
...some time ago I found a reference for Dayco 89133 being suitable for the A/C & mechanical serpentine tensioners. (but not hydraulic serpentine)

If your tensioner pulley bearing is simply dry rather than pooched, you can remove the seals carefully and regrease it. Use a high speed spindle bearing grease, these pulleys run up to 15,000 RPM near engine redline. It will be availabe at industrial supply houses or bearing specialists. A tube good for dozens of bearings will run $10 to $15. If you do regrease, pack the race 1/4 to 1/3 full only; don't pack it full as if a wheel bearing. There are DIY's around if you search.
See also:
- How to tell if you have mechanical or hydraulic belt tensioners (1) & how to switch from mechanical to hydraulic (1) and what is the difference between the two types (1) (2) & how to rebuild your hydraulic tensioners (1) & how to re-grease your pulleys and rollers (1) & the answer to the question of adjusting the 540i hydraulic tensioners' belt tension (1) (2)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #95  
Old 04-04-2014, 05:43 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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There is a nice thread today, with a 540i current parts/price list:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cooling system replacement on 2000 540i


Quote:
Originally Posted by rixter88 View Post
I'll be picking up a 2000 540i/6 Sport later this month to replace my Honda Civic as my daily driver. It has just under 105k on the odometer and the only cooling system components that have been replaced are the radiator at around 60k and the upper radiator hose this past summer. I've never done any car DIY besides a speaker replacement but I would like to do all the work on this myself. I've already parted out the repair using these forums and realoem.com. I've watched enough videos and read enough DIYs that I'm confident I can do this myself with the right tools (most of which I already have). Before taking the plunge on buying all the parts (I've copied in a spreadsheet I compiled at the bottom of the post), I have a few outstanding questions I wasn't able to answer using these forums:

1. Should I just be reusing the hardware (bolts/washers/etc.) that I pull out with the old parts or am I doing the right thing by getting new stuff?

2. Is there anything I've left off or anything that isn't necessary? I want to replace the belts while I have everything out but should I be replacing pulleys and tensioners as well?

3. I've read a lot of conflicting reports on the quality of aftermarket vs dealer sold expansion tanks. A lot of posts from 3-5 years ago claim the Bosch tank that the dealer sells is much better quality than the aftermarket part. Is this still true?

4. Likewise what I said above about the radiator, seems like everyone has a different opinion/experience regarding brands and their quality. Should I plan to replace any of the radiator mounts with the radiator or reuse what's in there?

5. Am I going to have to shop around for the best prices on all these parts or is there a one stop shop everyone agrees on?

Parts (all the prices were pulled from ECS Tuning):

Fan Assembly
Radiator Fan Clutch 1 11527502804 $134.3
Fan Blade 1 11521712110 $55.22
Torx Bolt With Washer 3 7146959924 $1.19
Water Pump Pulley - 112MM 1 11511742045 $23.01
Hex Bolt With Washer 4 7119904524 $0.99

Water Pump/Thermostat
Remanufactured Water Pump 1 11510393336 $186.71
Water Pump Gasket 1 11511731372 $2.65
Hex Bolt With Washer 4 7119906123 $1.05
BOLTW/WASHER 2 7119902600 $1.57
Thermostat With Housing 1 11531436386 $79.95
Hex Bolt - Pack Of 4 1 11121736603KT $3.96
Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 13621703993 $33.52

Hoses
Radiator Hose - Lower 1 11537505229 $35.12
Coolant Hose 1 11531711377 $25.16
Auxiliary Fan Switch 1 13621433077 $33.52

Radiator/Expansion Tank
Coolant Expansion Tank 1 17111741167 $85.28
Radiator - Manual 1 17111436060 $364.09
Brass Coolant Bleeder Screw 1 17111712788 $5.95

Belt Drive
Air Conditioning V-Belt 1 11281435280 $25.81
Accessory Belt 1 11281432724 $39.69

Sorry for the long winded post, I've spent a lot of time researching this recently and came up with as much information as I could on my own. Thanks in advance to anyone that takes the time to respond.
See also the following summaries:
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
In a nutshell, this is the best bang for your Irish bucks:
- Reservoir: BMW only
- Rad: Nissens for I6 is good (I have had it for 8y/50K miles. The Nissens for V8 may be a problem. Since you have an I6, use Nissens.

- WP: I use HEPU, zero problems since May 2006 (8y/50K miles).
- Fan Clutch: Sachs only, stay away from Behr.
- Fan Blade: dealer only
- Pulleys: INA
- Belts: Conti
- Tstat: Wahler

Ebay is simply a platform where people sell stuff. If you find appropriate seller selling let's say HEPU WP, then you are OK. Ebay seller is not necessarily a bad thing.
See also:
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDeGraff89 View Post
OE = Original equiptment, Helm may have ment OEM not BMW, OEM is original equiptment manufacturer, like Behr made our radiators, Bremi makes the coil packs, so if you order OEM (Behr, Bremi, Bosch, Ect.) Instead of a part made by these companies with a BMW logo printed on it, one more example. BMW brand sparkplugs are NGK with BMW printed on it. They cost 27 bucks per plug. Buy an NGK plug without the BMW,it costs 12
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Last edited by bluebee; 05-29-2014 at 09:11 AM.
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  #96  
Old 07-11-2014, 09:28 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Cn90 posted good hints on replacing just the pulleys in this thread today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Belts / Tensioner s/ Idler Pulley Replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Old thread but for those who need only the pulley (not the whole mechanical tensioner), you need to inspect the box before buying as some pulleys now have the Chinese bearings.

I called local NAPA auto, they sell the pulley as "NAPA PN 38018, about $15-$16", and the NAPA person opened the box and told me on the phone the bearing is NTN, which is a very reputable company (as INA).
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I got this photo of NAPA 38018 from the web and post it here so people know.
If anyone has any experience using this NTN pulley, please post...

BTW, this is for people with mechanical (not hydraulic) tensioner.


See also:
> E46 (1999 - 2006) > DAYCO 81933 mechanical tesioner pulley (No longer made by Ina?)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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Last edited by bluebee; 07-18-2014 at 10:10 PM.
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  #97  
Old 07-18-2014, 10:04 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Cn90 did some undercover investigative work for us on the pulley replacements for mechanical tensioners ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > UPDATE: Mechanical Tensioner Pulley Dayco 89133 vs Gates 38018

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
This is to give people an UPDATE on this Mechanical Tensioner Pulley issue...

There have been a few threads on mechanical pulleys bought at Autozone (under Duralast PN 23133) and Advance Auto (under Dayco 89133), were made by INA back in 2011, 2012 or so. This is no longer the case, the PNs mentioned above have the box saying "Made in Germany" but the bearing is "C&U", a Chinese company. See the thread below.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=649068


Part stores keep changing their supply over time, so you need to physically inspect the pulley before buying it! Anyway, this is the latest...

I was at Autozone yesterday looking at PN 23133 and the box says "Made in Germany" but the bearing is "C&U", and they have the nerve to sell it for $30! Needless to say, I walked away...

Went to NAPA and looked at Gates 38018 $18 with L.T. warranty.
I have not been to OReilly parts store, but their website lists the same Gates 38018 for $16 with only 1-yr warranty.

So I bought the NAPA Gates 38018. I have not installed it yet but looking at it, it is high-quality stuff. The bearing is the standard 6203LU bearing, which in this particular pulley, made by NTN, a Japanese company that has factory in Canada. The construction is solid, the bearing is nice and tight, no play.

I think you can trust this Gates 38018 pulley!


Anyway, photos of the Duralast/Dayco "C&U" bearings vs Gates 38018 for your eyes only...











----> This is Gates 38018



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  #98  
Old 07-19-2014, 04:39 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Good information in this thread today about pulley replacements ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > 2003 530i - A/C Tensioner
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsgene View Post
On the V8, all 3 of the pulleys were the exact same size 70mmx27mm.

Bought 3 Dayco 89052 back in 2009 for $10 ea from Advanced auto. They were all steel construction not the plastic composite. All 3 has NTN bearings so couldn't re-use the bearing dust covers but since these are sealed bearing, it didn't matter to me.

http://www.amazon.com/Dayco-89052-Be.../dp/B000CGB4QG

Not sure if they are the same layout for the I6.
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  #99  
Old 07-19-2014, 04:45 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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It's nice to know, in an emergency, that one can drive pretty far in the summer without the fan clutch on the vehicle ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Driving WITHOUT Fan or Fan Clutch


See also:
- How long can you drive your BMW E39 with the viscous fan clutch removed (1)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #100  
Old 07-25-2014, 07:04 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, on the V8, there's a set of hoses which caused one owner trouble today, which we should ensure are on the parts lists:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Valley pan leaking or hose?


See also:
- What is the recommended parts list for a complete cooling system overhaul (1) quickie telephone verbal instructions for unlocking the high instrument cluster on the E39 to test the koolant KTMP (1) & how to tell whether you have the high or low on board computer cluster (1) & a video showing how to unlock the low OBC (1) or the high OBC cluster for diagnostics (1) & how to change the OBC MID IHKA KTMP temperature from degrees Celcius to Fahrenheit (1) & how to locate all the cooling system hoses in the BMW E39 (1) & how to non-destructively remove the heater hoses (1) or radiator nipple (1) or expansion tank nipple (1) or overflow hose Oetiker clamp (1) & how not to misplace the thermostat wiring loom (1) & how not to twist a plastic bleeder screw (1) & the cn90 trick to get the fan clutch nut back on (1) & bluebee tricks to get the radiator back on in the I6 automatic (1) & what is the proper coolant level bobber stick height (1) & what to do when your expansion tank coolant level sensor float measuring stick is MIA missing in action (1) & where to find leaks when the CHECK COOLANT LEVEL is lit on the instrument cluster (1) & a pictorial saga of all the ways the cooling system can fail (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1) & where the coolant level sensor cable goes (1) & what is the o-ring size for the coolant temperature aux fan thermoswitch (1) & how the thermostat works, including what the normal temperature of the coolant is when the thermostat opens under normal conditions (1) & how to remove just the expansion tank to repair a leak during your cooling system overhaul (1) & how the expansion tank works (1) & users' behr/hella cooling system autopsy photos (1) & what to check on your new Behr/Hella expansion tanks to ensure it's not DOA (1) & how to test the cooling system auxiliary electrical fan (1) & a how to replace the aux fan (1) & where is the auxiliary fan fuse F75 (1) & where is the aux fan relay (1) & how to make your own BMW special cooling & belt drive system counterhold tools (1) & how to retrofit brass bleeder screws (1) & how to modify the cooling system expansion tank 2 bar cap to 1.2 bar to vent at a lower pressure (1) & how to modify the cooling system pressure with zero psi coolant (1) & how to eliminate weak recycled plastic with Zionsville aluminum (1) & how not to (JB Weld) fix a cracked radiator or other cooling system overhaul leaks (1) & how to tell the age of your cooling system by its date date codes, stickers, and plastic molded markings (1) & how to retrofit a coolant level sensor to an E39 that doesn't have it (1) & summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an overheated engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) & a DIY for replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) or a replacement short block or long block (1) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & how long can you drive your BMW E39 with the viscous fan clutch removed (1) & what is the most often recommended coolant (1) & tricks for efficient flushing (1) draining (1) bleeding (1) and coolant refilling DIYs (1)
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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