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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 12-12-2013, 02:39 AM
zersys zersys is offline
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Heater pipe number #8 M54

Anybody got any tips on getting it out? I got number 5 out by turning and pulling but number 8 can't be turned. I keep pulling and trying but it's not budging. Hoping somebody out there found a creative way of prying it out.



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Last edited by zersys; 12-12-2013 at 02:40 AM.
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2013, 04:29 AM
timarnold timarnold is offline
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I had the same problem and in the end wound up breaking off the end of the pipe and prying it out with a pry bar. Once you have broken the pipe, you do have a few more options as to removing the remainder. Mine wasn't an elegant solution, but it did work. Obviously, you have to avoid at all cost any scratching or dinging of the oring sealing surface. Hopefully someone has something better. Good Luck!
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2013, 02:31 AM
zersys zersys is offline
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Heater pipe number #8 M54

Yeah unfortunately either few people have been there or few people post about it because there really isn't many threads about it on the internet, so I haven't really found any methods.

My only fear of breaking it is using too much force and snapping the thread that the top part of the pipe is secured by.


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  #4  
Old 12-13-2013, 04:24 PM
timarnold timarnold is offline
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Re: Heater pipe number #8 M54

You may be able to get a pry bar behind the flange and head and get some leverage whilst pulling on the tube.

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  #5  
Old 12-13-2013, 05:04 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Your engine is too clean that is why it won't budge. Had yours was filled with oil and grease you wouldn't have that issue.

I suppose there's an O-ring in there? Correct?

I would dowsed it with penetrate lube then use some kind of puller (you have to be creative here) then when you go to pull it you need to have an impact type of force not a tug of war type but quick and impact to break loose of the o-ring.

A sliding hammer action with a hook?
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  #6  
Old 12-13-2013, 09:36 PM
zersys zersys is offline
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Heater pipe number #8 M54

The pry bar is sounding like the option I'll have to take, I just hate involving force and hammers in areas where soft metals, sensors, and hoses are involved.

But I think coupled with some penetrative lube, it might work well. I'll buy some on my way home today and have a crack at it. Thanks all!

Oh and I'll take the clean engine comment as a compliment . The car has 60k miles on it, so it's no surprise. To be honest the two heater pipes probably have plenty of life left in them, but at the moment I have a lot of time and some repairs I had to do anyway so I decided to go all out and replace all cooling system components bar heater tap (replaced in 09 by BMW according to service book).


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  #7  
Old 12-13-2013, 09:43 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Don't do it. Leave it alone. my 97 has 198 K miles, and my 02-530 has 152 K miles. None of them ever been replaced.
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  #8  
Old 12-13-2013, 11:30 PM
zersys zersys is offline
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Heater pipe number #8 M54

If I'm already there, why wouldn't I do it? Lol

And just because yours has lasted doesn't mean mine will. With the first pipe out, I noticed coolant had already broke through the first O ring and was on to the second.


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  #9  
Old 12-14-2013, 12:06 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zersys View Post
If I'm already there, why wouldn't I do it? Lol

And just because yours has lasted doesn't mean mine will. With the first pipe out, I noticed coolant had already broke through the first O ring and was on to the second.


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Kudo to you my man..I thought it would be a PITA, just try to save you some labor and money.
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  #10  
Old 12-14-2013, 12:30 AM
zersys zersys is offline
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Heater pipe number #8 M54

Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Kudo to you my man..I thought it would be a PITA, just try to save you some labor and money.
Oh no worries lol. Thanks anyway though. I've read around that these do last a bit. But right now I have a second car that's working, and time, and a little money, so I figure better to do it now then when I can't. Oh and yes, the job is a pita.

And by the way, your trick worked.
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The penetration lube got past the first o ring, so it did slide out a bit and that part of the pipe was still in tact, but the second O ring and the very tip of the pipe got stuck and broke off as I was prying it out.

Looks like I'll be spending some time picking it out! Thanks for the help everyone.


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  #11  
Old 12-14-2013, 03:54 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Glad to hear, and thank you for the update.
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  #12  
Old 12-14-2013, 11:42 AM
AV8R4AA AV8R4AA is offline
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I had this happen and I made it worse and leak.
Be VERY CAREFULLY extracting the broken off piece.
I scratched my aluminum outlet and now it leaks.
I need to do the entire process over.
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  #13  
Old 12-14-2013, 11:56 AM
crazy4trains crazy4trains is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zersys View Post
Yeah unfortunately either few people have been there or few people post about it because there really isn't many threads about it on the internet, so I haven't really found any methods.
Congrats on getting it out but likely the reason you haven't found any posts is that this part isn't a maintenance item. Just because you are in there working doesn't mean you have to replace every bit and piece. Now you risk damaging the sealing surface and future leaks as you try to pick out the remains. I buy into (only) replacing known problem parts. This isn't one of them.
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Last edited by crazy4trains; 12-14-2013 at 11:57 AM.
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  #14  
Old 12-14-2013, 04:09 PM
zersys zersys is offline
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Heater pipe number #8 M54

My outlet looks okay, I managed to get the remains out in mostly one piece surprisingly (once again, thanks to 16valex for recommending the penetrative lube. I used some more of it on the little stuck bit and managed to slide it out) . The outer part of the outlet is a little scratched but I don't think that will have any effect on the sealing judging by the location of the old sealing remains. I might put some permatex around the outside after putting the pipe in to be sure though. And the other pipe came clean out so no worries there.

All I have to do now is figure out how I'm going to clean the surfaces.

Also, in my opinion this is indeed a wear item and there are enough posts out there to confirm that the pipes do spring leaks, just not enough for any creative removal tricks to have been created.

The way I see it, these are two, brown, rotting 11 year old plastic pipes, with rubber O rings that have had 11 years of exposure to high temps coupled with Australia's 30-40 degree Celsius heat (90-110 Fahrenheit).

That and taking into consideration BMW's historically great plastic and rubber, yeah, I personally consider it a wear item like any other part of the cooling system. And I think I'll replace them if I have the opportunity.


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Last edited by zersys; 12-15-2013 at 04:50 AM.
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  #15  
Old 12-14-2013, 04:55 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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as ALex said this pipe is not a pipe usually people do with for Cooling System Overhaul M54 530i
i changed all pipes but this was not in my list even , - just because noone ever complained about it

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...rhaul-M54-530i

Good to know it can be replaced
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Last edited by champaign777; 12-14-2013 at 05:06 PM.
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  #16  
Old 12-20-2013, 10:42 PM
zersys zersys is offline
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Heater pipe number #8 M54

So to anyone that attempts this, hopefully you'll come past this in your search and learn from my mistake.

When replacing the pipes, PUT THE #5 PIPE IN FIRST AND THEN #8!

I was bleeding the system and coolant was streaming out of #5 as the aux pump was circulating coolant. Why? Because I put #8 in first, and #5 in after it. Which means that #5 was inserted at an angle, which caused the first o ring to catch the outer lip of the inlet, slip out if it's groove, and squash between the mating surface and the second o ring.

More helpful info -
Also, refrain from "picking" with sharp objects to get the broken off part out. This scratches and is also likely to flick plastic bits into the engine (found out the hard way and it turned in to a rescue mission with my finger)

I ended up using the end of a rubber handle of a small wrench which has rubber over the steel, very ideal. I managed to get the remaining parts of the pipe out as pretty much a whole rather than in small pieces.

I basically sprayed penetrative oil around the remaining bit, let it set in, then jammed the handle behind the remains of the pipe and used the lip of the inlet as leverage and pushed the other end of the wrench. This way it actually pushes the edge of the whole piece out. It's also likely that the first or even both O rings will be in the remains, with the method I described above, the o rings will actually work in your favour because they will catch on the end of your wrench and will pull the remains out with the o ring.

Last edited by zersys; 12-20-2013 at 11:23 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-13-2014, 04:26 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zersys View Post
So to anyone that attempts this, hopefully you'll come past this in your search and learn from my mistake.

When replacing the pipes, PUT THE #5 PIPE IN FIRST AND THEN #8!......
zersys, this turned out to be very good advice, as I found out today.

Just a note of thanks, hope others see this thread when the time comes. #8 still has room to go in easily enough even with the new #5 already installed. As you said, though, #5 will not go in straight with #8 installed first.

Incidentally, when I removed the old pipes, the double O-ring tip on the old #5 snapped off inside its hole even though it was loose and seemed ready to come right out. It was fairly corroded. I got the broken part out by screwing a large threaded bolt (as in really large like the one through the rear wheel carrier...) into it and carefully "wiggled" it out.

I had always assumed (wrongly) that the inside ends of these holes had some sort of "step" to them that catches the O-rings or the end of the pipe. Nope, just clean holes with one diameter. The hole behind the WP where the tip of #5 fits had an extremely sharp burr at its back edge, from the aluminum casting. If I had accidentally pushed the new pipe in too far, that burr would possibly have sliced through the forward O-ring. (it was as sharp as a knife, painful to touch with my finger!)
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  #18  
Old 04-13-2014, 04:55 PM
JDeGraff89 JDeGraff89 is offline
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Hammer!!!! Power!!!! Aarrrrhhhh!! Sorry mmy inner Clarkson came out a little bit. You could try to modify a C clamp so you can. Use it to pull instead of push..
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  #19  
Old 04-13-2014, 08:56 PM
helmet75 helmet75 is offline
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Originally Posted by JDeGraff89 View Post
Hammer!!!! Power!!!! Aarrrrhhhh!! Sorry mmy inner Clarkson came out a little bit. You could try to modify a C clamp so you can. Use it to pull instead of push..
He can mend anything with a hammer
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  #20  
Old 04-14-2014, 04:28 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This might be a good thread to cross reference for:
- How to non-destructively remove the heater hoses (1)

Or to:
- How to locate & replace all the cooling system hoses in the BMW E39 (1) (2) (3)
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