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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #26  
Old 11-08-2012, 03:41 PM
aefm2 aefm2 is offline
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Class action lawsuit against BMW

I have the same problem with the transmission. I am hiring an attorney to file a class action lawsuite against BMW. If anyone would like to joint my class action please responde to this posting as soon as possible.
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  #27  
Old 11-10-2012, 10:50 PM
jrconsejerotoo jrconsejerotoo is offline
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Yeap, sign me up! Emailing you my info
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  #28  
Old 02-01-2013, 06:47 PM
Moneypit750li Moneypit750li is offline
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See my post regarding BMW and BMW dealer run arounds and what it ended up costing me. If you have had dealers give you the same run around, please let me know. Thank you. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=673797
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  #29  
Old 02-01-2013, 07:07 PM
Moneypit750li Moneypit750li is offline
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Last edited by Moneypit750li; 02-01-2013 at 07:13 PM.
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  #30  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:06 AM
fratan fratan is offline
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I bought my 2006 750i with 87,000 miles on it. After a few months, I was driving on the highway and it was bumper to bumper traffic. When I was stopping from 2nd to first gear I heard a bang and thought that someone hit me from the rear.
This was the first symptom and not the last. It was becoming more frequent as time went on. After doing much research in this forum, it was brought to my attention that it wasn't the transmission at all causing this violent bang. It was the GUIBO joint.
Well, I finally had the time to drop the car off at my sons garage so that he could do a few things.
The 2006 750 I has 116,000 miles. For about 3 months, I had to add coolant about once every 400 miles. So he put the car on the lift, pulled the exhaust and dropped the tranny. He replaced the coolant pan at the engine block, wasn't leaking, but since he was there, he replaced it. He had the tranny on the stand and he replaced the guibo joint. He said that that was worn to shreds and definetly was the cause of the loud bang.

I checked in on him last night and he had the tube out of the valley pan. He said that normally you had to pull the tube out from the front but since he had the exhaust and tranny out he decided to go a different route. He pulled the tube out from the back towards the rear and replaced it with a new tube since the tube comes with the o-ring that caused the major coolant leak. Since he put the pipe in from the rear, he had to use some special adhesive to make sure the O-rings stay in place. Since the coolant only pushes about 15psi's he said that it would be fine.
Today, I took the car for a test drive and popped it into S. Came out of first to second to third as smooth silk. I'm so happy that finely I have the ultimate driving machine. I give this website credit for turning me onto INPA, helping with every issue over the last year and half. Helping me with the infamous coolant leak, the guibo joint banging, the transmission reset pedal trick, the integrated control module, the yaw sensor, and any other issue that may come up.
I'm also very fortunate to have a son that is a mechanic prodigy and a great mechanic. He did a great post on the infamous SAS issue, carbon build up in the heads, on the 2004 745I that we were able to clear.
If anyone is looking for a great mechanic, just let me know. He is in Hyannis, MA.
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Last edited by fratan; 02-24-2013 at 11:15 AM. Reason: adding info
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  #31  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fratan View Post
I bought my 2006 750i with 87,000 miles on it. After a few months, I was driving on the highway and it was bumper to bumper traffic. When I was stopping from 2nd to first gear I heard a bang and thought that someone hit me from the rear.
This was the first symptom and not the last. It was becoming more frequent as time went on. After doing much research in this forum, it was brought to my attention that it wasn't the transmission at all causing this violent bang. It was the GUIBO joint.
Well, I finally had the time to drop the car off at my sons garage so that he could do a few things.
The 2006 750 I has 116,000 miles. For about 3 months, I had to add coolant about once ever400 miles. So he put the car on the lift, pulled the exhaust and dropped the tranny. He replaced the coolant pan at the engine block, wasn't leaking, but since he was there, he replaced it. He had the tranny on the stand and he replaced the guibo joint. He said that that was worn to shreds and definetly was the cause of the loud bang.

I checked in on him last night and he had the tube out of the valley pan. He said that normally you had to pull the tube out from the front but since he had the exhaust and tranny out he decided to go a different route. He pulled the tube out from the back towards the rear and replaced it with a new tube since the tube comes with the o-ring that caused the major coolant leak. Since he put the pipe in from the rear, he had to use some special adhesive to make sure the O-rings stay in place. Since the coolant only pushes about 15psi's he said that it would be fine.
If anyone is looking for a great mechanic, just let me know. He is in Hyannis, MA.

The Guibo joint is designed to ABSORB shocks and vibrations from the driveline. It's intended purpose is to NOT coverup the BANG when you go from 2-1 gear. That's an internal transmission or torque converter problem that needs to be addressed. That new Guibo will be shredded like the old one pretty fast.

As far as what you are saying about the pipe, that's a bit odd. It's a pressure fit pipe, the covers need to come off and the new O-ring is sandwiched in. You can do that or use the All German Auto (AGA) Repair kit which has better O-rings so it doesn't happen again.

Also there isn't a coolant pan, just a little container that's made out of plastic. I think maybe he replaced the transmission pan? That's needed when it's leaking or when you are doing a fluid change as the filter is built into the pan.
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  #32  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:21 AM
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745iguy 745iguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csmeance View Post
The Guibo joint is designed to ABSORB shocks and vibrations from the driveline. It's intended purpose is to NOT coverup the BANG when you go from 2-1 gear. That's an internal transmission or torque converter problem that needs to be addressed. That new Guibo will be shredded like the old one pretty fast.

As far as what you are saying about the pipe, that's a bit odd. It's a pressure fit pipe, the covers need to come off and the new O-ring is sandwiched in. You can do that or use the All German Auto (AGA) Repair kit which has better O-rings so it doesn't happen again.

Also there isn't a coolant pan, just a little container that's made out of plastic. I think maybe he replaced the transmission pan? That's needed when it's leaking or when you are doing a fluid change as the filter is built into the pan.
I think hes talkin about the rear coolant cover on the n62.
As far as that guibo goes funny you mention that because in another post i had suggested the hard down and up from 2-1 and 1-2 to be the adapter and sleeve (plug oring and gasket for mecha that keeps oil pressure) and i was told i was wrong and the guibo fixes that and if the gasket inside was blown the tranny wouldnt engage, blown yes maybe but leaking or on its way out it will lead to strange tranny behavior.. So can somebody else Chime in because i was always sure that hard shifting was a sign of that internal gasket going but maybe im out of my mind???
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  #33  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:50 AM
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Rookie2008 Rookie2008 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 745iguy View Post
I think hes talkin about the rear coolant cover on the n62.
As far as that guibo goes funny you mention that because in another post i had suggested the hard down and up from 2-1 and 1-2 to be the adapter and sleeve (plug oring and gasket for mecha that keeps oil pressure) and i was told i was wrong and the guibo fixes that and if the gasket inside was blown the tranny wouldnt engage, blown yes maybe but leaking or on its way out it will lead to strange tranny behavior.. So can somebody else Chime in because i was always sure that hard shifting was a sign of that internal gasket going but maybe im out of my mind???
I do believe it was I that told you that harsh downshift from 2nd to 1st has nothing to do with the Mechatronic sleeve an adapter you were referring too. I still stand by that. The Mechatronic sleeve an the Mechatronic adapter will cause the transmission NOT to go in gear when the car is cold. Typically the 1st start of the day. Once the transmission has heated up to normal operating temperature then the seal expands causing the car to think the problem is fix an go into gear but in actuality its not. The actual Guibo joint/flex disk maybe a temporary fix for harsh down shifting or Bang as stated. However, Hard down shift can come from various things like the torque converter, solenoid pack or even valve body.
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Last edited by Rookie2008; 02-24-2013 at 11:59 AM.
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  #34  
Old 02-24-2013, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 745iguy View Post
I think hes talkin about the rear coolant cover on the n62.
As far as that guibo goes funny you mention that because in another post i had suggested the hard down and up from 2-1 and 1-2 to be the adapter and sleeve (plug oring and gasket for mecha that keeps oil pressure) and i was told i was wrong and the guibo fixes that and if the gasket inside was blown the tranny wouldnt engage, blown yes maybe but leaking or on its way out it will lead to strange tranny behavior.. So can somebody else Chime in because i was always sure that hard shifting was a sign of that internal gasket going but maybe im out of my mind???
I do believe you are talking about this topic (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...413&highlight=). I don't think you are out of your mind, but I firmly believe the Mechatronic adapter an sleeve you are referring to is not the solution to this problem.
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  #35  
Old 02-24-2013, 01:17 PM
fratan fratan is offline
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I was referring about the rear coolant cover on the back of the engine which is a known problem with the e65's. This wasn't leaking but we decided to replaced it anyways since we had access(proactive fix). I've been driving with the bang since 90,000 miles. That bang kept getting loader and more frequent and felt like a slip in the transmission. If you have the bang then there is no mistaking the noise. It's like someone has rear ended you. I had the car for 1 month and driving with a friend of mine on the highway when we came to a stop. I then accelerated and bam. My friend told the driver behind us to pull over and he said he didn't hit us. I believed him because it happened once before but not so hard.

There is no more slipping or banging since replacing the GUIBO joint. I never heard about the torque converter but will further research. My son is confident that the bang was caused from the guibo joint slipping from being worn out while the car was performing its stopping process.

As far as I'm concerned, the problem is fixed and I'm styling with the smoothest ride out there. Now I can ride in S mode. BooYah!
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Last edited by fratan; 02-24-2013 at 04:29 PM. Reason: more info about the bang
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  #36  
Old 04-03-2013, 04:52 PM
mckinneyborn mckinneyborn is offline
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did you get anywhere with bmw corporate on this?

did you get anywhere with bmw corporate on this?



Quote:
Originally Posted by jrconsejerotoo View Post
yesterday I opened the door and even pushed the button to park, I saw it go into park!
I walked over about 8 feet to key in my garage code when out of the corner of my eye i catch the car coming at me and my 4 year old. Car eventually stopped when it crunched my grge door.
I get in the car and the gear symbol is lit...car is in Neutral and transmission failure code is on! Now it goes into gear for a few seconds then automatically goes into neutral...so I can hit the gas and start moving before it clunks and disengages . I'm talking about the parking shift position not the parking brake..consider this..none of my regular analog automatic transmission vehicles magically change gears from park to neutral even if the transmission does fail. CAR SHOULD NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES GO FROM PARK TO NEUTRAL ON ITS OWN! One day you'll forget the parking brake and you'll find your car ghost riding without you...and hopefully it doesn't kill someone or destroy property.
I would like to know, since it happened out of the blue without warning...If anyone knows how to clear the fault to replicate it? I'm afraid to disconnect the battery since that ill also erase my key fob? So I been told... Apparently, NHTSA has had several complaints and are investigating this...but in the meantime I'm dead in the water and I refuse to pay $10k for a new transmission on a car with this few miles without an explanation at least of why someone would be stupid enough to make this a possible default setting.
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  #37  
Old 04-10-2013, 06:08 PM
cali_hodo cali_hodo is offline
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There is a recall campaign on it!
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  #38  
Old 05-19-2013, 08:36 AM
Mahjikk Mahjikk is offline
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Hey guys,
I'm not entirely sure if my problemm is the same as most of yours, (I'm new to cars) but here's what happened.
I convinced my dad to go ahead and buy an 06 750li from an infinity dealership in ATL, it was a great deal for relatively low miles (80k). All was well until recently. The check engine light (the one that actually looks like an engine) has been on for a couple of months. I wrongly assumed that it had to do with the next service checkup. Anyways, just yesterday, as we were visiting a friend, the series of events took place:

-drove up an inclined driveway, car fully loaded with people.
-reversed on said driveway
-tried to go back up and encountered a "transmission fault error"
-I wasn't driving but it felt as if my dad were driving through mud. The car was rpm'ing highly and my dad parked it on level ground. The car seemed to want to stay in neutral or reverse.
-upon restarting it a few minutes later it drove fine, but the check engine light is still on.

Now idk if it's the same, but ever since the check engine light was on my dad's been complaining of jerky shifts and slow acceleration from stop. I don't know what's wrong but frankly I'm disappointed with the car, going as far to say that our 08 Altima is a better ride :/ I'm hoping it's as simple as an IVM fault. And I'm willing to try anything to fix it on my own. I would like my dad to actually enjoy his ride instead of being worried about it every time he hits the accelerator. Hope you guys can help.
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  #39  
Old 05-20-2013, 05:04 AM
fratan fratan is offline
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The check engine light has nothing to do with the Transmission fault. The light should have been brought to the sellers attention within the 30 day period. The 2006 750i is a great car much better than an Altima but requires about $1000-1500 of servicing per year.
You need to find a reasonable mechanic that uses INPA or if your computer savvy load INPA into a laptop so you can read the check engine codes and reset them when necessary.
When I bought my 2006 750 I, I had some recalls fix with the dealer which BMW paid for. Call BMW USA and they'll check your car to see if these recall campaigns were fix. One recall had to with the brakes.
Also, put the key into the ignition without your foot on brake and push the button, once the button is pushed hold the gas pedal down for 25 seconds. This will reset the transmission.
There is a good possiblility that you may have a transmission leak either in the Transmission sleeve or the bridge seal adapter between the mechatronics and tranny. These parts are cheap but you need a mechanic to put it up on a lift.
Good luck and continue reading, this site is great and if I can do it anyone can.
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  #40  
Old 06-11-2013, 04:52 AM
fratan fratan is offline
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Just wanted to give everyone a heads up. My 2006 has 122,000 miles, I finally brought it into the shop to have the transmission fluid changed and the bridge seal adapter replaced, a $10.00 part. Sure enough the bridge seal was toast and the transmission fluid was dark.
Did a test drive last night and still had some jerkiness so I reset the adaptation values in INPA. This seems to have done the trick. The car shifts smooth and it is like night and day. The BMW's uses the best ZF transmissions that money can buy but that bridge adapter needs to be changed out around 100,000 miles with the tranny fluid.
Hope this helps.
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  #41  
Old 06-11-2013, 01:42 PM
Givethanks Givethanks is offline
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06 750 Transmission problem?

What's a bridge adapter?


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  #42  
Old 06-11-2013, 11:38 PM
7Rage 7Rage is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobwardjr View Post
they replaced mine under warranty and the bill was about 12k new tranny labor and 1800 bucks for fluid
for fluid? everytime i hear from the SA about how they are "sealed units" and you "can't" change the fluid, because it "doesn't" need it.... so, theoretically speaking, if you cant change it, it should come with fluid inside.... why would they charge 1800$ in addition for fluid?

At least yours was out of warranty.... blasted $tealerships....
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  #43  
Old 06-13-2013, 05:40 AM
fratan fratan is offline
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My dealership wanted over $800.00 to change the transmission fluid, mostly the BMW tranny pan and filter. The tranny fluid definetly needs to be changed around 100000 but the bridge seal adapter will break after 100000. We've already replaced 2 bridge seal adapters with about 120,000 on the 7's. My wife has a 04 745 I. I called ZF and spoke to an engineer and he told me about the bridge seal adapter. My son was able to get at it fairly easily since it is between the mechatronics and tranny.
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  #44  
Old 11-19-2013, 07:23 AM
koolaid koolaid is offline
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jocho910 im having the same issue. How do I get in touch with you? Can you shoot me a message? I did everything the dealership asked and the trans is still slipping and now seems like it wont get out of gear. Also it wont go into a higher gear and the trans fault "drive moderatly" light stays on.
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  #45  
Old 11-19-2013, 12:35 PM
fratan fratan is offline
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Koolaid,
Did you have them replace the bridge seal adapter yet, between the mechatronics and transmission?
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  #46  
Old 11-19-2013, 12:39 PM
koolaid koolaid is offline
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Not yet, Well let me correct that - I don't know. I went with what the service manager told me needed to be done and the word he used was "gasket". Now that gasket could be one and the same with what your talking about. So would that cause my vehicle to not shift gears? I mean it was working fine with the exception of that slamming at times but now since going to the dealership it's felling like anything over 4omph and it wont shift gears
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  #47  
Old 11-19-2013, 04:21 PM
fratan fratan is offline
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Why would they give you the car back if it wasn't right. Most dealers the car. Ask them if they reset the adaptation values and if they replaced the bridge seal adapter. They should know what that part is. It is a very common replacement.
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  #48  
Old 03-02-2014, 03:17 PM
fratan fratan is offline
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This is the post on the bridge seal adapter.


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  #49  
Old 04-01-2014, 10:01 PM
chamboko chamboko is online now
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Forgive me gentlemen for posting on here again, I successfully replaced my mechatronic adapter seal and the sleeve on my 06 e66 after getting that all annoying transmission fault, drive moderately message. Thanks to all you guys here for your posts. The car would go into park after putting it in drive and reverse but eventually would go after 15 to 20 mins in the morning especially. The car was not shifting well and would have to go to higher rpms just to reach 55 miles/hr. After the replacements, the car goes into gear with no issue, it changes gears 1 to 3 with no issue but sort of hangs there. It downshifts with no issue. I think this is because transmission fault drive moderately error is still showing up. Do I have to go to the dealer to get this off or can I reset it off myself.....
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  #50  
Old 04-01-2014, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chamboko View Post
Forgive me gentlemen for posting on here again, I successfully replaced my mechatronic adapter seal and the sleeve on my 06 e66 after getting that all annoying transmission fault, drive moderately message. Thanks to all you guys here for your posts. The car would go into park after putting it in drive and reverse but eventually would go after 15 to 20 mins in the morning especially. The car was not shifting well and would have to go to higher rpms just to reach 55 miles/hr. After the replacements, the car goes into gear with no issue, it changes gears 1 to 3 with no issue but sort of hangs there. It downshifts with no issue. I think this is because transmission fault drive moderately error is still showing up. Do I have to go to the dealer to get this off or can I reset it off myself.....


Yes you should have the error codes removed ...
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