Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #26  
Old 08-30-2010, 11:29 AM
anomal's Avatar
anomal anomal is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Massachusetts
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 211
Mein Auto: 2002 530i
bluebee: Looks right to me. Though, the visual inspection might not be fool-proof. The bushings can be shot with no visible sign. I'm pretty sure that you can remove the through-bolt and inspect the bushing without popping the ball joint. On mine, I could clearly see the cracks in the soft part of the bushing.

Also, time and the environment are probably as important factors as milage. It's going on 9 years for even the newest e39's. Not many have less than 75k. I would bet that better than half of the thrust arms out there should be replaced. I do believe that this is a conservative estimate.

I tightened loose sway bar links when I recently replaced my thrust arms. Some knocking went away. So, whats my point? If it was the sway bar links that caused the knocking, I was virtually symptom free and yet still had bad bushings. The only concrete symptoms were that the alignment could not be performed and steering was a little vague. The steering observation is 20/20 hindsight. I had not noticed until my steering tightened up with the new thrust arms.

Naturally, you can DIY the bushing install. And, you can do that in-place on the chassis if you have the right press. Buy, why? It's so much easier replacing the whole thing and you get a new ball joint. If you check the posts, you can read how difficult the DIY'ers have said it is.
__________________
I love the smell of brake cleaner in the morning...
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 08-30-2010, 11:48 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,084
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark@EACTuning View Post
corrected my link above
Thanks Mark. I guess you can never get the English teacher out of me (it was my first job out of school until I (almost) murdered one of the parents out of sheer frustration).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark@EACTuning View Post
We do not get wrapped up in the ... terminology ... simpler than falling off a log
I like that concept. Only, you probably can't make it too simple for me! (I break everything I touch it seems sometimes.) I do appreciate the kits that you and OEMBimmerparts create for us. I love 'em! You take all the thinking out and mistakes out for us! Thanks again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by anomal View Post
remove the through-bolt and inspect the bushing without popping the ball joint
That's a GREAT diagnostic hint! We probably should look up the torque to put it back but this seems like a good set of steps:
- If you suspect shimmy
- Figure out if it's brakes (easier to fix because it might not need parts, just a rebedding)
- If it's suspension, then remove the thrust-arm bushing bolt and inspect the thrust arm bushing for leaks and/or cracks

Are these the main reasons for shimmy/shake while braking?
1. Brake pad deposits (commonly mistakenly referred to as rotor warp)
2. Worn thrust arm bushings (when at certain speeds while braking)
3. Worn shocks (when in combination with low-speed braking over bumps)

I know how to diagnose #3 (it happens only at low speeds and on bumps); and I know how to fix all three (rebed brakes, replace thrust arms with solid bushings, and replace shocks); but... I'm still confused ...

How do you differentiate between brake pad deposits and worn thrust arm bushings causing shimmy at high speeds?
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 08-30-2010, 12:38 PM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
Past Sponsor
Location: NW Indiana USA
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,563
Send a message via AIM to Mark@EAC
Mein Auto: e39 5
The thrust arms can cause a shimmy at speeds around 40-60 MPH that transmits a steady vibration through the steering wheel. On some cars the braking vibrations are not bad, on others with worn bushings it feels like the steering wheel is getting ripped out of your hand. I guess it depends how shot they are. Just wanted to mention that they can be responsible for shimmies and vibrations at times other than braking.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 08-30-2010, 06:21 PM
dms540i's Avatar
dms540i dms540i is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Massachusetts
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 539
Mein Auto: 1999 BMW 540iA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark@EACTuning View Post
sorry corrected my link above. Had an extra http:// on there. I will see that the grammar on the item page is corrected too.

We do not get wrapped up in the tension control reverse noodle linkage terminology. You can call the arms whatever you want. They are thrust arms, whether for V8 or I6. All you need to do is select the appropriate arms for your car from the drop down box. We have made it simpler than falling off a log for you.
You know I just went on your website, punched in my year/make/model info, got the pull down boxes, picked suspension, and there's no hint of anything call "thrust arm" to choose. I do see "traction strut" and "control arm". I tried over & over typing in thrust arm as a key word but it kept asking me category and there were no choices. Even when you know what you are looking for you guys never make it easy for us. I guess I might be good at balancing on logs. Not.
__________________
BMWCCA#401441
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 08-31-2010, 01:21 AM
MatWiz's Avatar
MatWiz MatWiz is offline
Psychology Reversalist
Location: NYC
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 15,826
Mein Auto: 528
Quote:
That's a GREAT diagnostic hint! We probably should look up the torque to put it back but this seems like a good set of steps:
- If you suspect shimmy
- Figure out if it's brakes (easier to fix because it might not need parts, just a rebedding)
- If it's suspension, then remove the thrust-arm bushing bolt and inspect the thrust arm bushing for leaks and/or cracks
- Stick a large screwdriver on the side of the bushing and push it to flex it. The rubber may have weakened over time, even if you don't see cracks. If you feel low resistance, the bushing is gone. (Unfortunately, you'd need to compare to a new bushing before you get the "feel" for it. But sometimes it is just obviously too soft.)

Control arm (ha!) bushing shimmy will usually be there just driving the car on a highway. No braking is necessary.

mw
__________________
MatWiz
"Seeing is not believing. Believing is seeing." -Judy the Elf
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old 08-31-2010, 09:24 AM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
Past Sponsor
Location: NW Indiana USA
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,563
Send a message via AIM to Mark@EAC
Mein Auto: e39 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark@EACTuning View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dms540i View Post
You know I just went on your website, punched in my year/make/model info, got the pull down boxes, picked suspension, and there's no hint of anything call "thrust arm" to choose. I do see "traction strut" and "control arm". I tried over & over typing in thrust arm as a key word but it kept asking me category and there were no choices. Even when you know what you are looking for you guys never make it easy for us. I guess I might be good at balancing on logs. Not.
See the link I posted above earlier in the thread, a little reading goes a long way.
That is the only place on our site you will find the thrust arms with heavy duty bushings which is the product I have been discussing here. You can find OEM thrust arms AKA traction struts on our site looking them up in the manner you describe. I would advise going with the HD bushing equipped version.

To see the specialty suspension items we carry for your car you would click featured parts> BMW>suspension which would bring you to this page:
http://www.eactuning.com/suspension-c-75.html
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 08-31-2010, 09:47 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,084
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Given these the main reasons for shimmy/shake while braking:
1. Worn shocks (when in combination with low-speed braking over bumps)
2. Brake pad deposits (commonly mistakenly referred to as rotor warp)
3. Worn thrust arm bushings (occur at speeds even while not braking)

Is this a better recommended diagnostic procedure?

If your car shimmys while driving:
- To determine if it's brakes or suspension or shocks

a) Violent vibrations that occur at low speeds while braking on bumps are often due to bad shocks. Canonical thread is here with MatWiz' explanation here and here. My experience is here, here, and here.

b) Brake pad deposit vibrations occur only when braking and are often speed related (the vehicle vibrates faster at faster speeds) and are felt in the brake pedal. Canonical thread is here, there, and over here. My experience is here and here.

- Thrust arm bushing vibrations often occur at speed without braking (but can occur when braking) and are felt in the steering wheel. Canonical thread is unknown (by me). DIY is here. I have no experience with this so I know little about it (but I'm hoping others will add value).

Recommended solution:
- Low speed braking on bumps vibration: Diagnose by braking on bumps with ABS control module harness connector disconnected; if the vibration stops, replace the shocks.

- Brake pad deposit vibrations at speed while braking: Diagnosis is difficult to isolate but if performing the free rebedding procedure at speed diminishes the vibration noticeably, that's a diagnostic clue. Checking runout may help if the deposits are huge but they may only be a thousandths of an inch in height.

- Thrust bushing vibrations seem to be the only vibrations that occur at speed sans braking: Diagnose by inspecting the bushings for cracks or leaks. It helps to remove the center bolt or to push with a screwdriver to see if cracks become more visible. The recommended solution is to replace the entire thrust arm with a Lemforder or TRW brand with Meyle HD (solid) bushings.

Request:
Please add value to this recommendation so that it can be a general rule of thumb for others.
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 08-31-2010, 11:23 AM
anomal's Avatar
anomal anomal is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Massachusetts
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 211
Mein Auto: 2002 530i
Mark@EACTuning:

There is substance to the comment made by dms540i.

I initially found the link to the "stuffed thrust arms" through some side door. It might have been via google or a link posted in this forum. After doing due diligence by finding positive opinions, making price comparisons, and researching DIY vs. pre-stuffed, I came back to EAC anxious to give them my money for just the right product. Like dms540i, I could not find the darn things. When I did finally find the darn thrust arms, it said there was zero inventory. When I called, I was told that there were about 90 in stock. Two dead ends after all that research. WTF?

Unless EAC is trying to add some mystery to these parts, why not make them as easy to find as other parts? When potential customers go through the trouble of entering in their vehicle information, well, shouldn't they see everything that is available for that vehicle--like one of the best replacement parts ever for their vehicle?

Really, it's a great product. I understand the value. EAC is a positive presence on this board. All good things. But, it is difficult to understand the secrecy surrounding the thrust arms. Perhaps your webmaster should be flogged with a liquid-filled bushing.

Sorry, about hijacking the thread for a rant, folks. I have no hard feelings for Mark or EAC. I couldn't stop typing. Back to your regularly scheduled thread...
__________________
I love the smell of brake cleaner in the morning...
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 08-31-2010, 12:41 PM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
Past Sponsor
Location: NW Indiana USA
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,563
Send a message via AIM to Mark@EAC
Mein Auto: e39 5
You could have placed your order right over the phone if you were having any trouble with the site. If you guys can't find what you need click the contact us button on our site or feel free to call me at 800-208-6448. My extension is 704 and you may also reach me by private message on this site.

I don't really know what else to say to that. If you called for stock status you could have just as easily had the rep you spoke with place the order for you, or asked him to email you a link to the product.
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 08-31-2010, 03:22 PM
yadayadayada's Avatar
yadayadayada yadayadayada is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: usa
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 630
Mein Auto: 540i sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by MatWiz View Post
I think that the X5 bushings as well as the M5 bushing would fit into the 540 control arm, but not into the I6 cars. 540 bushings are wider I mean, thicker.

That is IIRC. I will gladly be corrected on this one.

mw
The X5 bushing is a common upgrade for the V8 E39.......When I replaced all the front end parts I did all OEM,but there were not many aftermarket pieces available way back when,I have the receipts some where in my pile.....
__________________

Last edited by yadayadayada; 08-31-2010 at 03:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 08-31-2010, 07:40 PM
repcapale repcapale is offline
Registered User
Location: edmonton, canada
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 85
Mein Auto: '01 530 Sport
So are the thrust arms suposed to have play in them? What I mean is when i grab it I can twist the arm a little left ot right. Is this normal?
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 08-31-2010, 10:42 PM
MatWiz's Avatar
MatWiz MatWiz is offline
Psychology Reversalist
Location: NYC
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 15,826
Mein Auto: 528
Quote:
Originally Posted by yadayadayada View Post
The X5 bushing is a common upgrade for the V8 E39.......When I replaced all the front end parts I did all OEM,but there were not many aftermarket pieces available way back when,I have the receipts some where in my pile.....
That's what I'm saying. That it fits the 540 but not the 6 cylinders cars.


Quote:
Originally Posted by repcapale View Post
So are the thrust arms suposed to have play in them? What I mean is when i grab it I can twist the arm a little left ot right. Is this normal?
See my post in this thread?

mw
__________________
MatWiz
"Seeing is not believing. Believing is seeing." -Judy the Elf
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 08-31-2010, 10:45 PM
MatWiz's Avatar
MatWiz MatWiz is offline
Psychology Reversalist
Location: NYC
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 15,826
Mein Auto: 528
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark@EACTuning View Post
You could have placed your order right over the phone if you were having any trouble with the site. If you guys can't find what you need click the contact us button on our site or feel free to call me at 800-208-6448. My extension is 704 and you may also reach me by private message on this site.

I don't really know what else to say to that. If you called for stock status you could have just as easily had the rep you spoke with place the order for you, or asked him to email you a link to the product.
We are internet people. We text. We post. We send emails. What is that "talking" and "calling" you speak of? Is that what old people knew how to do?

mw
__________________
MatWiz
"Seeing is not believing. Believing is seeing." -Judy the Elf
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 09-01-2010, 08:45 AM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
Past Sponsor
Location: NW Indiana USA
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,563
Send a message via AIM to Mark@EAC
Mein Auto: e39 5
Internet people understand how an email server works and would have no problem messaging me at mark@eactuning.com, or by clicking the PM link.

The guys who are actually buying and running the best parts for their cars have zero qualms about making a phone call, or sending an email for a little help. I know because I spend a good deal of my work day every day talking with members of these forums by phone, a strong percentage of those calls are e39 guys. I spoke with a bimmerfest guy about this thread earlier this morning. That is what I am here for, to answer questions and to make sure you guys can find and buy the parts you want.
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 09-01-2010, 09:36 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Omaha NE
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,835
Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
Quote:
Originally Posted by MatWiz View Post
We are internet people. We text. We post. We send emails. What is that "talking" and "calling" you speak of? Is that what old people knew how to do?

mw
I am a human being, I like to talk to another human being when the web fails me...hehe!
Speaking of that, I saw some wheels on my Volvo on ebay. The price is a bit high, so I picked up the phone, call the seller, negotiated the price on the phone and got a good deal out of that.

So, yes the phone still has its value, Matwiz!
Reply With Quote
  #41  
Old 10-06-2012, 08:27 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,084
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
For the cross-linked record, this thread was opened today:
- > E39 (1997 - 2003) > Suspension diagnose & DIY basics for beginners

Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
I thought this was a nice opportunity to have a beginner's suspension thread that is a little more geared towards beginner DIY. This is one frontier that many people never tackle, b/c it's simply invisible under the car. This is a very arcane and mysterious topic that I'd love to learn more about and maybe even tackle as a DIY, provided it's safe and has decent odds of not needing to punt (frozen bolts, etc)

Symptom: I am getting a light clattering from the front, when going over bumps. It is NOT an abrupt staccato thud or clunk, but more a faint rattle over bumps.

How does one even go about diagnosing the suspension? Jack up the car and grab the wheel at 3,6,9,12 and see if it's loose. And if it is? Just start grabbing random bars until I see that one is loose?

Here is what's been replaced on my car by the PO:
67k: Both rear Sway Bar Links (Is there a sway bar in the rear of the car?)
67k: Left/Front Lower Rear Control Arm.
77k: Left/Front Lower Forward Control Arm
Car is now at 128k

The wording above absolutely needs clarification, and scares beginners away.
..."lower" and "rear" implies each wheel has 4 control arms? (Total of 16 control arms per car?)
For example, for the left/front wheel, do you have:
  1. Lower rear control arm (replaced on mine)
  2. Lower forward control arm (replaced on mine)
  3. Upper rear control arm
  4. Upper forward control arm

The huge roadblock here is that you don't even know what you're looking at !
It's just a bunch of spaghetti until someone shows you, and you work on it yourself.
Sure, THEN, it's easy enough for a 5th grader. Even photos do not help, b/c the perspective is confusing, and very few get under their cars to just look at the suspension.
But, until you replace each component yourself, it might as well be reading about rocket science in Greek.

It seems like these are the top service items in the suspension
This is just a big list of words. None have any meaning to a beginner.
  • Thrust Arm Bushing
  • Inner/Outer Tie rod
  • Worn or Failed Swaybar Endlinks
  • Control arm & bushings (upper/lower)
  • Stabilizer links
  • Ball joints (?)
  • Swing Arm/Stabilizer
  • Worn or Blown Shocks and Struts
  • Torn Subframe and Subframe Bushings

I read the #1 culprit is usually Thrust Arm Bushing.
Where is it in the photo? How do I check that?
Is this possible for a beginner DIY?

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...17&hg=31&fg=05
  1. In the diagram above, which are the common wear parts that get replaced?
  2. Are there other diagrams that control other aspects of the front suspension ?
  3. What is the common name for #4 and #11?
  4. Can #4 be replaced by a beginner?
  5. Can #11 be replaced by a beginner?
  6. Which Harbor Freight special tool is needed for either #4 or #11 DIY?

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1120495
Here is my summary based on existing information in this 'thrust arm' thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I know nothing about suspensions; however, to help answer the questions, I typed /front suspension F3 into the bestlinks, which found:
- DIY to replace suspension components, control arm (1), and complete front suspension overhaul (1)

Typing /thrust arm F3, I found:
- Thrust arm bushing replacement for the E39 I6 (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & V8 540i (1) (2) (3) & thrust arm recommended parts (1) (2) & brand selection (1) (2) & how to make your own BMW thrust bushing tool (1) or buy them (1) (2) or improvise (1)

In those referenced threads, I found the following BMW suspension training class which 'may' also help answer the questions above:
- BMW_suspension_systems_training_all_BMW_including_ E39.pdf

Notice each front suspension arm has FOUR different names, some of which are unique while others overlap:
E39 I6 front suspension arms:
- Thrust arm (common name) = tension strut (BMW name) = leading control arm = upper control arm
- Control arm (common name) = wishbone (BMW name) = trailing control arm = lower control arm

E39 V8 front suspension arms:
- Thrust arm (common name) = traction strut (BMW name) = trailing control arm = upper control arm
- Control arm (common name) = wishbone (BMW name) = leading control arm = lower control arm

EXAMPLE: E39 I6:

EXAMPLE: E39 V8:


Confusing definitions for the E39 thrust arms and control arms:

- thrust arm (longer than control arm, curved, hydraulic bushing)
- control arm (shorter than thrust arm, straight, solid rubber bushing)
...
- wishbone (i.e., the leading control arm on the V8, straight, shorter, solid bushing)
- wishbone (i.e., the trailing control arm on the I6, straight, shorter, solid bushing)
...
- traction strut (i.e., the curved thrust arm on the V8)
- tension strut (i.e., the curved thrust arm on the I6)
...
- upper control arm (i.e., the curved thrust arm, longer, rises higher to the frame)
- lower control arm (i.e., the straight control arm, shorter, rises lower to the frame)
...
- leading control arm (i.e., the curved thrust arm on the I6)
- leading control arm (i.e., the straight control arm on the V8)
...
- trailing control arm (i.e., the straight control arm on the I6)
- trailing control arm (i.e., the curved thrust arm on the V8)
...
Also:
- HD bushing (i.e., heavy duty, aka "solid" bushing)

Note: For the rear suspension, see these:
- How to do a complete overhaul of your E39 rear suspension (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) or just the rear subframe axle bushings (1) (2) or the rear upper control arm (1) or the rear shocks (1) & springs (1) & cv boots (1) & M5 sway bars (1) (2) with special tools for rear ball joint removal (1) & where to buy a rear ball joint press (1) (2) & what tools to use for the rear alignment (1) & what are the BMW TIS alignment specs & procedures (1) & how to do a reduced negative camber (1) or normal rear wheel alignment (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) & alignment with (1) or without extra weight (1) (2) (3)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 10-06-2012, 05:20 PM
abanjableu's Avatar
abanjableu abanjableu is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Eastern PA
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 754
Mein Auto: 02 540/74 911/01 Z3(hers)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
For the cross-linked record, this thread was opened today:
- > E39 (1997 - 2003) > Suspension diagnose & DIY basics for beginners



Here is my summary based on existing information in this 'thrust arm' thread.
I love you! I know you like digging into failed parts. PM me...I am about to do a bunch of suspension work to my 540 in the near future and can supply either worn parts or tons of photots for your collection/help.
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:20 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Grapevine, TX (DFW)
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 281
Mein Auto: 525i (E39)
anomal, it really only took an hour for both sides? ive been putting off way too long with 50mph vibration. Its less than $300 for both sides but been putting off as in my mind itd be full day or two job. If that easy i really should gitter done.
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 01-19-2013, 08:51 AM
Edgy36-39's Avatar
Edgy36-39 Edgy36-39 is offline
Constantly Learning
Location: Northern Virginia
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,234
Mein Auto: 1999 M3, 2002 M5
Quote:
The recommended fix is the EACTuning solid rubber bushing, which cannot leak and fail, eliminating this failure mode. The degradation to ride quality is minimal and near-impossible to detect. Some people replace their own bushings but that is a bear of a job and it is much easier to buy replacement thrust arms with the HD bushing installed.
Hello all. Just confirming this is still the consensus of the collective here, this is the way to go for thrust arms aka traction struts.
__________________
I LIKE OLDER BMWS, PLEASE HELP ME:
Fern Green 99 M3, Conforti Shark Software, Conforti CAI, Dinan Exhaust. Stamped LTWs, 235x40 square, OEM Hella heads, ///M Pedal Kit, Clear Corners, OEM Rear Spoiler, CD43 stereo. MRegistry listing here.
Le Mans 2002 M5, Black/Titanium, Rogue SSK, Dinan exhaust, PSS9 coilovers, Euro rotors, iPod integration. MRegistry listing here.

Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 01-19-2013, 09:48 AM
Fudman's Avatar
Fudman Fudman is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Sudbury, MA
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,205
Mein Auto: '02 530i Sport auto
Yes, these are the Lemforder (or TRW) thrust arms refitted with Meyle HD bushings. Note: They were ONLY available from EAC Euro Parts, not ECS Tuning. Things may have changed. Do not confuse this hybrid Lemforder/Meyle combination with the Meyle HD thrust arm with (same) HD bushing. You essentially want the Lemforder balljoint and the Meyle HD bushing. An aluminum arm (almost) never fails.

You rarely get a benefit without a tradeoff. In this rare case, there appears to be no tradeoff other than a slight cost increase. You get increased durability, (slightly) improved performance and you do not compromise ride quality. I have 35K (others have more) on my set and still love them.

Last edited by Fudman; 01-19-2013 at 09:53 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #46  
Old 01-19-2013, 02:43 PM
Edgy36-39's Avatar
Edgy36-39 Edgy36-39 is offline
Constantly Learning
Location: Northern Virginia
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,234
Mein Auto: 1999 M3, 2002 M5
Fudman -- thanks for the thorough and crystal clear feedback. Had the car up in the air today and one arm was easily movable. So hoping that's the issue.

To confirm, this is what we're talking about***********: http://www.eaceuroparts.com/catalog/product/453

It's showing $325 for the pair, sound kosher?
__________________
I LIKE OLDER BMWS, PLEASE HELP ME:
Fern Green 99 M3, Conforti Shark Software, Conforti CAI, Dinan Exhaust. Stamped LTWs, 235x40 square, OEM Hella heads, ///M Pedal Kit, Clear Corners, OEM Rear Spoiler, CD43 stereo. MRegistry listing here.
Le Mans 2002 M5, Black/Titanium, Rogue SSK, Dinan exhaust, PSS9 coilovers, Euro rotors, iPod integration. MRegistry listing here.


Last edited by Edgy36-39; 01-20-2013 at 08:09 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 01-19-2013, 04:37 PM
Fudman's Avatar
Fudman Fudman is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Sudbury, MA
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,205
Mein Auto: '02 530i Sport auto
Those are the ones!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms