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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-04-2010, 06:54 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Thrust arm bushing saga....

So, I decided to tackle the thrust bushing this weekend and collect the stuff I needed to do the job earlier in the week.

I thought I would try using the BMW press sleeves first, but when I called to check stock they were on back order - 3 weeks.

Plan B try other methods described on the forum (3 prong puller or the home depot special). I opted to build the home depot extractor, but I ran into trouble finding the 2.5" pipe and several of the other necessary parts. Home depot had steel pipe in this size, but you'd have to buy 10 feet of it. Checked around at Canadian Tire and Home Hardware for the parts, no pipe caps, sill plate or right size washers either to use the three prong puller method or home depot method.

Plan C look for other like similiar things. I measured the thrust bearing because some washers I purchased didn't fit. The thrust bearing outer steel casing is 2 1/4". Found some exhaust pieces that were the exact match and some 4x4 securing plates and came up with the following. The only thing that was easy to find was the threaded rod and bolts.
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Last edited by morrisroad; 09-04-2010 at 07:21 PM. Reason: Correction
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2010, 07:11 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Saga continues...

So the extraction on this drivers side was ok. The plates were a good thickness but compressed as did the washers. The exhause pieces showed no fatigue or damage.

The passenger side didn't go as smooth . The bearing was stuck in there good and as I started to ratched through it was moving but was a tough ratcheting. The washers I was using were garbage, they split under pressure. I purchase two sets plates and doubled up those up on the ends and put on extra washers and it was really tough ratcheting again, the nut was ripping through the washer and the plate. ( Note: I removed the tape as it starts to push the bearing through, it was just there to keep the exhaust piece on straight) The bearing was nearly out, so disassembled the rig and tried it a third time. Ratcheted this one straight through. The rig was garbage afterwards, but the bearing was out with no damage to the arm and that's all that mattered. Thinking, nearly finished.

Put the powerflex bushings on, and this was the easiest part. Just followed the procedures noted on the forum, wedging the two washers, and using a jack to push up the bearing. Used a pry bar to get the bolts aligned. I ordered the power flex bushings a few weeks ago from Bav Auto (the one thing I did pre order). I tried a bunch of sites like the powerflex USA, but they were backordered.

The bad news is that on the passenger side, I think my torque wrench was not working, because I sheared the bolt and I thought I was almost done.
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2010, 07:11 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisroad View Post
So, I decided to tackle the thrust bearing ... I opted to build the home depot extractor.... The thrust bearing outer steel casing is 2 1/4"....
Wonderful tool-making thread, along the lines of:
- How to make your own thrust bearing tool (this thread)
- How to make your own fan clutch nut tools
- How to make your own subframe and differential bushings tool
- How to make your own oxygen sensor tool
- How to make your own VANOS solenoid socket tool

I have one question.

When you say "thrust bearing", I assume you don't mean the rubber "thrust bushing" on one end.

Q: Is there is a steel roller, pin, or ball bearing on the other end of the thrust arm?
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  #4  
Old 09-04-2010, 07:14 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Anyone know what kinds of bolts can be used? This one looks like its aluminum. The bold has the following markings on it KX2 109
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  #5  
Old 09-04-2010, 07:18 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Sorry your right its the bushing (metal sleve with rubber surrounding a center aluminum core....long day.
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2010, 05:44 AM
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Checked around on few web sites but looks like most don't carry the bolt and nut for the thrust bushing.
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  #7  
Old 09-05-2010, 09:50 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Hmm, not sure about your car model .... Here's a RealOEM.com diagram for the front axle suspension parts on my 528i.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&hg=31&fg=05

I checked pelicanparts.com using part numbers for the parts #6 and #20, they list them.

Plug in the last 7 digits of your VIN at RealOEM and get the part #'s for your car.

Last edited by pleiades; 09-05-2010 at 09:52 AM.
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  #8  
Old 09-05-2010, 05:36 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Its a 530....checked the pelican site and it looks like they have them. Thanks.

Any tips on torquing the bolts would be greatly appreciated. I was torquing the bolt to 81 ft lbs. Wondering if there is any difference in the torque spec between stock bushing and the powerflex bushing. Unfortunately, the powerflex packages didn't have much detail in this regard.
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  #9  
Old 09-05-2010, 06:12 PM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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realOEm diagrams are a joke... and should never be used as real reference's


cough cough... grade 8 bolts.... and

aluminum is non magnetic (fyi)
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  #10  
Old 09-05-2010, 11:29 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
realOEm diagrams are a joke
We use Realoem to find part numbers. It works (mostly) for that. Prices are not realistic; but the part numbers seem to be (mostly) pretty good.

BTW, my suggestion: When you get to 100 posts, which you seem to be aiming for with your short replies where the picture is larger than the reply itself, then ditch the huge and mostly empty sig pic and turn it into your avatar instead. If you need help, download the 120x85 pixel 2.5KB pic attached below and make it your avatar instead of the sig.
Note: The maximum size of a Bimmerfest avatar is 120 by 90 pixels or 40.0 KB (whichever is smaller).
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  #11  
Old 09-06-2010, 06:05 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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AHhhh for the part numbers... that makes sense.... i was gonna say looking at those beat Azz drawling for repair.......
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  #12  
Old 09-06-2010, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
AHhhh for the part numbers... that makes sense.... i was gonna say looking at those beat Azz drawling for repair.......
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  #13  
Old 09-06-2010, 09:39 AM
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Johnny Canada Johnny Canada is offline
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@ borderchris,

Don't forget, there's an "Ignore Member List" option that's very useful in these cases.
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  #14  
Old 09-06-2010, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Canada View Post
@ borderchris,

Don't forget, there's an "Ignore Member List" option that's very useful in these cases.
If I could only put selected members' signature on ignore...

mw
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  #15  
Old 09-07-2010, 06:20 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Thanks. I searched the Pelican site and found the parts with the numbers from Real OEM. However, I needed the bolts asap, so dealer was the choice. Replaced both bolts and nuts.

See pic for how to shear the bolt by over torquing. The bolt was stretched a 1/4".

This time around, I set it at a lower torque until it clicked and then set it higher. At any rate, they torqued up fine the second time. And they are significantly tigher than the ones that were on the car.

Lowered it down slowly, let it sit for a bit and then took it for a regular drive. What a difference, no more annoying clunking sound and wobbles around the corners.
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  #16  
Old 09-07-2010, 06:24 PM
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Anyone interested in the new BMW Part numbers they are as follows:

31-10-6-769-441 Bolt M12x1, 5x120 $7.64 CAD each (old number 31-12-1-093-465)

33-32-6-760-668 HEX nut $3.03 CAD each (old number 33-32-6-751-446)
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  #17  
Old 09-07-2010, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisroad View Post
This time around, I set it at a lower torque until it clicked and then set it higher. At any rate, they torqued up fine the second time. And they are significantly tigher than the ones that were on the car.

Lower it down slowly, let it sit and then took it for a drive. What a difference, no more annoying clunking sound and wobbles around the corners.
This sounds like you torqued your bolts while the car was jacked up with the wheels unweighted and then lowered the car onto the ground. The correct torquing procedure is to install the wheels, lower the car onto the ground, weight the car and then torque your bushings while the control/thrust arm bushings are loaded. This preload is necessary to prevent them from twisting under the weight of the car if they are torqued when unloaded. Access to the bushing bolts is tight so you may want to put the car onto ramps or blocks to gain better access.
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  #18  
Old 12-19-2010, 05:10 AM
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Just as a cross reference, making your own thrust bushing tools is one method, and getting pullers at Sears apparently is another.

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  #19  
Old 12-19-2010, 07:20 AM
Solo man Solo man is offline
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Hi there, made up my own puller same type tool as yours about two months ago. Fortunately my brother is in the steel/welding business and his guy did the welding up of the part for me. In my case the easy part was getting the old bushes out. Took me about half an hour to get the first one out and about seven hours to get the replacement in (bought the rubber bushes from an aftermarket supplier in London). The second one also took about half an hour to get out and to get the replacement in took about 3 hours. Problem was that the replacement has a tapered edge on one side and this is the side that is supposed to go in, but with the primitive tool i had made, it would turn skew and stick. I eventually just kept on tightening it untill it went in and straightend itself.
Problems afterwards when driving the car is that it feels as if the suspension is much more sensitive to wheel balancing or rather badly balanced wheels as i have had endless problems with vibrations. Eventually replaced the front tyres with new tyres and that resolved the problem by 95%.
Btw, had the car on ramps while doing the job.
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  #20  
Old 01-27-2012, 04:55 PM
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Looks like the tension strut (thrust arm) non powerflex bushing end has loosned up, so time to replace. Thinking of going with stock replacments, the powerflex bushings I have found to be too harsh.
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  #21  
Old 01-27-2012, 06:22 PM
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Go with the Meyle HD bushing. Not too soft, not too hard... Just right! And they won't leak either (they're solid rubber).
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  #22  
Old 01-30-2012, 02:04 PM
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morrisroad morrisroad is offline
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Where is a good source for the these?

I have seen a few kits on ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E39-8PC-...item3f0dd8c17e) for some incredible prices, but it would be like the saying goes, you get what you pay for.
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  #23  
Old 02-03-2012, 05:47 AM
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Anyone have experience with these http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-E39-525i-...item5d2cde6445
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  #24  
Old 02-03-2012, 06:42 AM
kimokk kimokk is offline
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Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
This sounds like you torqued your bolts while the car was jacked up with the wheels unweighted and then lowered the car onto the ground. The correct torquing procedure is to install the wheels, lower the car onto the ground, weight the car and then torque your bushings while the control/thrust arm bushings are loaded. This preload is necessary to prevent them from twisting under the weight of the car if they are torqued when unloaded. Access to the bushing bolts is tight so you may want to put the car onto ramps or blocks to gain better access.

@morrisroad: you never responded to this comment. Did you torque the bushings while the car was loaded or not? Thanks.
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  #25  
Old 02-03-2012, 08:11 AM
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energizedmortal energizedmortal is online now
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^ Kim,

I recently made the same mistake and did not torque them while preloaded. I spoke to someone at BMW of Manhattan and they said its highly likely that any pot hole I hit on the way to getting them torqued correctly can ruin them

they probably exaggerated a bit but torquing them correctly with the correct weight in the car is crucial to its longevity. I'm waiting for a lower control arm and will consolidate its installation, the correct pre load torque, and alignment a week from today. I will report if the meyle HD bushing did in fact die from one week of being driven on without the correct torque.

Last edited by energizedmortal; 02-03-2012 at 09:00 AM.
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