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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 04-14-2010, 11:31 AM
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ncmallard78 ncmallard78 is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 2003 540i m-sport
what else do I need for coolant overhaul???

Corteco (OES)
Cooling/Coolant Hose; O-Ring Seal, 20x3mm; Coolant Pipes to Engine
2001 BMW 525I $0.67 $1.87

$0.67

11537502525
BMW (OE)
Cooling/Coolant Hose; Water Pipe, Water Pump to Radiator Outlet Hose
2001 BMW 525I $34.04 $40.95

$34.04

17111436381
Behr
Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir
2001 BMW 525I $59.83 $83.24

$59.83

17111723580
BMW (OE)
Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir; Mounting Clip for Expansion Tank
2001 BMW 525I $2.99 $3.30

$2.99

17111436060
Behr
Radiator
2001 BMW 525I $138.93 $348.59

$138.93

0005000894
Behr (OES)
Radiator Hose; 90 Degree Elbow Fitting on Top of Radiator for Drain Hose
2001 BMW 525I $2.34 $4.70

$2.34

11531705224
Metzeler
Radiator Hose; Lower with Temperature Sensor Fitting
2001 BMW 525I $26.54 $38.62

$26.54

11531705223
Metzeler
Radiator Hose; Upper with Bleeder Screw Fitting
2001 BMW 525I $24.95 $34.85

$24.95

17111427156
Elaplast
Radiator Hose; Vent Hose from Radiator to Expansion Tank
2001 BMW 525I $9.94 $18.35

$9.94

5PK0863
CRP-Contitech
Serpentine Belt/Ribbed Drive Belt; AC Compressor
2001 BMW 525I $9.94 $25.40

$9.94

6PK1538
CRP-Contitech
Serpentine Belt/Ribbed Drive Belt; Alternator/Power Steering/Water Pump
2001 BMW 525I $17.06 $39.18

$17.06

11530139877
Behr (OES)
Thermostat; Thermostat Kit with Housing and Seal
2001 BMW 525I $59.70 $90.38

$59.70

11517527799
Graf
Water Pump; Update Replacement with Metal Impeller
2001 BMW 525I $60.70 $121.38

$60.70

Parts Total $447.63
Refundable Core Deposits $0.00
Total Before Shipping $447.63

Last edited by ncmallard78; 04-14-2010 at 11:34 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-14-2010, 11:38 AM
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ncmallard78 ncmallard78 is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 2003 540i m-sport
I know I need the belt tensioners and im having a hard time finding the correct ones on the autohausaz site.

Doing this because opened the hood today and my engine is speckled with dots of coolant. car is not overheating and no coolant light. I called my indie and he was shocked that my radiator made it to 118,000 miles. Figure I would do it right and replace everything else.

Thanks for all your help!
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2010, 11:49 AM
edjack edjack is offline
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Try this place: epsparts.com. I buy virtually all my parts there. Great service.

You can repack the idler wheel bearings. Carefully pry out the seals, thoroughly wash the bearing, repack with hi-temp wheel bearing grease, install seals.
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2010, 11:56 AM
Rjim Rjim is offline
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Just finishing up my coolant system overhaul. I also replaced the plastic idler pullies but not the tensioners which are mechnical (very sturdy looking springs) on my M54 engine. I got my parts from Pelican which has a user-friendly website IMO with fairly good descriptions and diagrams as to what you need. New fan and fan clutch arrived today and that should finish her up. Praying for no leaks.
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  #5  
Old 04-14-2010, 12:37 PM
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ncmallard78 ncmallard78 is offline
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rjim, how mechanically inclined are you? I have done oil changes and other services on other cars, and im pretty handy, but im not sure about doing this myself. I got a qoute from my indie for 400 bucks plus parts.

Also, what did you pay for all the parts that you installed? So far im at about $450. Thanks for your help!
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  #6  
Old 04-14-2010, 12:46 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncmallard78 View Post
I know I need the belt tensioners and im having a hard time finding the correct ones on the autohausaz site.

Doing this because opened the hood today and my engine is speckled with dots of coolant. car is not overheating and no coolant light. I called my indie and he was shocked that my radiator made it to 118,000 miles. Figure I would do it right and replace everything else.

Thanks for all your help!
Add:
1. Fan Clutch (Sachs or Behr only)
2. Fan Blade (BMW only)

3. Belts x 2
4. Tensioners are an option, I'd replace them if you have budget, if not then later at 150K or so.
5. All 3 pulleys (1 idler, and 2 attached to the tensioners).

6. I notice you use Graf WP. It is a good brand. I use HEPU WP, 4 years later, not a problem.

Whatever you do, bleed and bleed and bleed the system properly before driving off your driveway!
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  #7  
Old 04-14-2010, 01:04 PM
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ncmallard78 ncmallard78 is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 2003 540i m-sport
[QUOTE=cn90;5103366]Add:
1. Fan Clutch (Sachs or Behr only)
2. Fan Blade (BMW only)

3. Belts x 2
4. Tensioners are an option, I'd replace them if you have budget, if not then later at 150K or so.
5. All 3 pulleys (1 idler, and 2 attached to the tensioners).

Can you provide a link for the belts, pulleys and tensioners? Thanks in advance!
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  #8  
Old 04-14-2010, 01:15 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Change your signature, what year is your car?
Best is to go to realoem.com and enter your VIN and look around.
I hate to give you the wrong info.
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  #9  
Old 04-14-2010, 01:34 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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If you haven't already done so--this would be the right time to do the Vanos seals and the valve cover gasket
while your going to have everything down that far--good time to do it all--for that matter--ccv valve and the oil filter housing gasket as well--couple of extra c notes and the cars going to be ready for another 100k miles with no problem--and will really help the engine with those new Vanos seals.
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  #10  
Old 04-14-2010, 01:43 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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1+,

Poolman is right I did things in diff settings, costing me more time.
- Vanos seals
- Oil Housing Gaskets
- All CCV, ICV, Intake Gasket seals.

Oh...It is just money and time effort!...
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  #11  
Old 04-14-2010, 03:50 PM
bagmanindy bagmanindy is offline
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Mein Auto: 97 528i, 85 318i, landcru
I did my cooling system overhaul at around 90K and this is what my living room looked like when the parts came in:

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  #12  
Old 04-14-2010, 04:12 PM
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DHoang DHoang is offline
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YOu done real good with changing out all those bits and pieces. Did you also change out the two hoses going to the throttle body, and the two hoses near the back of the motor going into the heater core? Don't see them in the pics...
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  #13  
Old 04-14-2010, 04:18 PM
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ncmallard78 ncmallard78 is offline
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I already change the ccv and vcg as well as the oil filter housing. that was a year ago and 1 grand at the indie. At this point I really dont care. knock on wood this car is fantastic! I own the 525, and I bought my wife an 07 suburban. It is rolling junk. my car at 118k miles is much much tighter.
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  #14  
Old 04-14-2010, 04:42 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Those Vanos seals will make your car run like it was brand new--ya won't belive the diff
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  #15  
Old 04-15-2010, 06:48 PM
Rjim Rjim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncmallard78 View Post
rjim, how mechanically inclined are you? I have done oil changes and other services on other cars, and im pretty handy, but im not sure about doing this myself. I got a qoute from my indie for 400 bucks plus parts.

Also, what did you pay for all the parts that you installed? So far im at about $450. Thanks for your help!
I paid roughly the same for the parts you listed, but the fan and clutch will set you back another $160 or so. From the projects I've read about on this forum, I'd rate myself as just average at DIYs. Removing the fan/clutch and shroud is the tough part IMO. Between the Bentley manuals and DIYs written on the subject, you will have lots of reference info to guide you through the job. I set up my laptop on a bench right in front of my car. As long as you have another car to drive if you get stuck, I'd say go for it.
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  #16  
Old 04-15-2010, 07:10 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 528i 5-sp 140K+
1+:

1997-1998 528i info:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986

1999--->2003 5-series:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=442933

Tips:
1. Use anti-seize or grease on the fan clutch nut prior to re-installation. It will make future removal a breeze (been there done that).

2. It can be very challenging to re-install the fan clutch because of the tight space, so use shoe lace or poultry cord like this DIY:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=240143

No need to tighten the fan clutch nut. Just re-install the fan clutch; because it is reverse thread, engine rotation (clockwise) will tighten the fan clutch nut on its own!

Last edited by cn90; 04-15-2010 at 07:14 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-15-2010, 09:19 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
- Cooling system overhaul (cn90 DIY)
- Vanos seals (poolman DIY)
- Oil Housing Gaskets
- All CCV, ICV, Intake Gasket seals.
I'm dreading having to do any of these but they're all in the cards if I'm to keep my bluebee running much past 85K, I fear...

Anyway, is that your basic engine-bay 80K prophylactic service?
(1) Replace both belts & ? pulleys (best DIY?)
(2) Overhaul the cooling system (cn90 DIY)
(3) Replace the Vanos seals (best DIYs)
(4) Replace the CCV (Fudman DIY)
(5) Clean the ICV (DIY)
(6) Replace the intake gasket seals (best DIY?)
(7) Replace oil filter housing? (DIY)
(8) ? what else ... while you're taking things apart ... ?

Anything else recommended, while the parts are off the car, at roughly 80K to 100K miles that has a good DIY reference?

I don't think replacing the shocks will benefit from the "while you're at it", but, maybe the fuel filter, alternator, and power steering pump? Coil? Plugs?
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  #18  
Old 04-16-2010, 01:24 AM
E39er09 E39er09 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncmallard78 View Post

Can you provide a link for the belts, pulleys and tensioners? Thanks in advance!
what year is your E39? Do you know if you have a hydraulic or mechanical tensioner? You can find these parts on subcategory "Belt Drive System" on autohausaz.com. i would provide you the link but don't know what year you got.
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  #19  
Old 04-16-2010, 06:27 AM
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DHoang DHoang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Anyway, is that your basic engine-bay 80K prophylactic service?
(1) Replace both belts & ? pulleys (best DIY?)
(2) Overhaul the cooling system (cn90 DIY)
(3) Replace the Vanos seals (best DIYs)
(4) Replace the CCV (Fudman DIY)
(5) Clean the ICV (DIY)
(6) Replace the intake gasket seals (best DIY?)
(7) Replace oil filter housing? (DIY)
(8) ? what else ... while you're taking things apart ... ?

Anything else recommended, while the parts are off the car, at roughly 80K to 100K miles that has a good DIY reference?

I don't think replacing the shocks will benefit from the "while you're at it", but, maybe the fuel filter, alternator, and power steering pump? Coil? Plugs?
My suggestion is to knock off #3 first, vanos seal. THen Put it all back together and test drive the car to be sure your vanos is functioning properly. ALso you want to make sure your new gaskets aren't leaking, especially the back of the head.

Then, knock off everything else on your list in one shot.
NOw, If you're going to replace the oil filter housing, you can go one step further to ensure that it's the last of it. GO buy a new oil filter housing, then get the two pressed in plugs TIG welded shut. Don't try the liquid metal glue it all down method b/c it's a hit or miss. YOu don't want to R&R this but once.

With coolant hoses DIY, If you're going to get down and dirty with preventive maintainance on all the cooling parts, change EVERYTHING coolant related - orings on the coolant pipe, hoses to the throttle body and the hoses going to the heater core & valve. THere's two more hoses from the heater core to the valves mounted on the left fenderwell. Change them too b/c they're cheap , very easy to get to.

Likewise, IF you've already pulled out the intake and the oil filter housing, what you're looking at are the hoses to the power steering pump and rack and reservoir. Throw in another $200 and change out all 4 hoses. It's a 15 minute job w/ nothing obstructing them.

FUrthermore, since you had to disconnect the two pre-cat oxygen sensors in order to remove the intake, going back in with two new pre-cat sensors is worth doing.

THen, check your two motor mounts, especially the left side as this is the side that pulls upwards when engine's revved. Put a jack under the front of the oil pan, and slowly raise the engine. Go very slowly on pumping the floor jack handle. You don't want to go so high that you created your own damage and tear the mounts off by jacking the engine up too high. But as soon as the engine starts to raise, look for any separations, not at the outside wall of the mount, but on the inside center section. Get some light deep down in there to look. Addressing this now while the intake's out is incredibly easy to do. make sure the center section is still connected to the base. If you have any doubts, just replace them now. $60 a pop, iirc. Being that they're liquid filled, they don't last nearly as long as solid rubber mounts. ANd if you found that your motor mounts were busted, then cHances are good that your trans mounts, being the last line of defense, could be torn as well.

Lastly, though not necessary but since intake's removed, try to remove the two bolts off the starter, clean the threads up, apply anitseize and put them back in. That way, if and when the time comes to replace that starter, you won't be stripping out the torx heads trying to muscle them out from below using a universal joint. The bolt is metal, the starter housing's threads are alum. THose two dissimilar materials fuse and weld together over time. deal w/ it now, or deal w/ it later. IT's alot less painful now than later, I can guarantee you that.
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  #20  
Old 04-16-2010, 06:41 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHoang View Post
....NOw, If you're going to replace the oil filter housing, you can go one step further to ensure that it's the last of it. GO buy a new oil filter housing, then get the two pressed in plugs TIG welded shut....
- I think bluebee meant "replace the oil filter housing gasket", not "replace the oil filter housing".
- Later models (1999 ---> 2003) oil housing have screw-in bolt type plugs, so no leak.
Mine (1998 model) has the "freeze plugs", I sealed them with RTV, asphalt caulk and now bone dry 4 months later (see the DIY).

- Let the O.P. breather a little bit and finish the Cooling System first....LOL...

- The list provided by bluebee is very extensive and takes weeks to finish, not to mention budget set aside for those DIYs.
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  #21  
Old 04-16-2010, 06:48 AM
bagmanindy bagmanindy is offline
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Mein Auto: 97 528i, 85 318i, landcru
I picked up a 32mm spanner wrench from a bicycle shop to remove my fan clutch for 9 bucks. It is a lot thinner than a regular open end wrench and it worked great. Just remember that it is reverse thread. You can get the tool from ZDMAK - $32 includes 32mm wrench and fanclutch holding tool if you plan ahead.
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  #22  
Old 08-24-2011, 10:32 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagmanindy View Post
I picked up a 32mm spanner wrench from a bicycle shop
Good work.

More on the wrenches needed are here:
- How to make your own BMW special cooling & belt drive system counterhold tools (1)

And, today, a new list of all cooling system parts was just posted:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Thermostat,Fan Clutch,Bleed Screws... Finally

Making the total best cooling system parts threads these:
- List & picture of all the cooling system overhaul parts to replace (1) (2) (3)
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  #23  
Old 05-29-2014, 09:10 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
This information is useful for those considering which parts to buy:
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
In a nutshell, this is the best bang for your Irish bucks:
- Reservoir: BMW only
- Rad: Nissens for I6 is good (I have had it for 8y/50K miles. The Nissens for V8 may be a problem. Since you have an I6, use Nissens.

- WP: I use HEPU, zero problems since May 2006 (8y/50K miles).
- Fan Clutch: Sachs only, stay away from Behr.
- Fan Blade: dealer only
- Pulleys: INA
- Belts: Conti
- Tstat: Wahler

Ebay is simply a platform where people sell stuff. If you find appropriate seller selling let's say HEPU WP, then you are OK. Ebay seller is not necessarily a bad thing.
See also:
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDeGraff89 View Post
OE = Original equiptment, Helm may have ment OEM not BMW, OEM is original equiptment manufacturer, like Behr made our radiators, Bremi makes the coil packs, so if you order OEM (Behr, Bremi, Bosch, Ect.) Instead of a part made by these companies with a BMW logo printed on it, one more example. BMW brand sparkplugs are NGK with BMW printed on it. They cost 27 bucks per plug. Buy an NGK plug without the BMW,it costs 12
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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