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E34 (1989 - 1995)
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#1
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I was driving down the road and all of a sudden the car check engine light turns on and the rpm just dropped. I got home doing 5 miles per hour and it was the worst idle I've ever heard. When I would give it gas the car would seem 2 choke. Anyway. 2 weeks later and still the same. I've tried everything... changed the maf cleaned the icv. Checked for vacum leaks and nothing. I've tried the stomp test but nothing. Its a 94 540I so I read it don't work. Wats next..... oh and intresting part is that I checked all circits leading to anything involving the air and fuel. The only one that didn't light up was the circut leading to the tps or that butterfly thingy. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks =)
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#2
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Ps. I'm new so I don't know all the terminology =)
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#3
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Have you checked the fuel pump????
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#4
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Can you hook up a code reader or computer with some diagnostic software to your car? Sometimes that can't be avoided.
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#5
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Ok I just did the stomp test. Code 1215 shows. And my bentley manual says its airflow meter. But I just bought another one. And its on the car could it be the dme relay instead of the acctual sensor itself?
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#6
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My car did the exact thing and showed the 1215 code and it was a bad fuel pump.
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#7
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But u could smell un burned gas wen I turn it on and shuts off. I'm so confused. Oh and by the way I filled it up 2 full the day this happened which was on the 17th of september(still have the recipit) and now its oct 1st and nearly half the tank is gone and I haven gone anywhere. Just by cranking it? Could this be a sign of wats wrong?
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#8
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I disconnected the maf and the car stayed on. Could it be dirty.?
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#9
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My car would also run when I unhooked the mass air sensor you could drive it up the road for a little ways then it would usually stall and after setting for a minute would start up and let me make it back home. It would idle all day long in park with the mass air sensor unhooked but the minute you hooked it up it would stumble a few times and then stall out. It may be something else but I figured I would suggest the fuel pump since it had a lot of the symptoms that my car did and it drove me crazy trying to figure out what was wrong with it.. Maybe someone else has another guess as to whats wrong..
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#10
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Quote:
Steve
__________________
Steve Calypso Red 1992 525i with 170K miles 1991 735i - Sold 1992 525i - Sold 1995 325is - Sold 2000 528i - Sold
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#11
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Umm no. But now it just cranks. No start. Fuel pump is my next try how do I test the pump?
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#12
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Please find the fuel leak first. Everything else is secondary. To find the leak, put your key at the No2 position. Your pump will be activated and will pressurise the fuel system. Fuel should start leaking fast.
Have lots of water handy. |
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#13
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Ok ill look for leaks now
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#14
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Didn't find any leaks wat now =(
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#15
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Were you able to hear your fuel pump humming?
__________________
Steve Calypso Red 1992 525i with 170K miles 1991 735i - Sold 1992 525i - Sold 1995 325is - Sold 2000 528i - Sold
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#16
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Ok I took the fuel pump out of the gas tank and while still connected I turned the key. No humming no noise. Nothing. So yea I'm pretty sure its a bad pump. It just cranks. How do I test the connection that comes from the engine the electrical one
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#17
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Bad fuel pump should not be responsible for Ace losing half of his fuel. However.....hmm, your bad fuel pump could also have a bad fuel float thus showing you a wrong reading, which would also explain why you didn't find any leaks when you checked.
To test the electrical connections, download the bentley manual by searching the forums and check there. However, just pull out your pump, connect it with wires to a 12 volt battery and see if it moves. If it doesn't then you've found your problem. Do it quickly, then purchase a new one off ebay. |
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#18
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Ok I know this sounds dumb but how EXACTLY do I test it.(steps) hahahaha I feel dumb
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#19
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Look at the leads which connect the fuel pump to the car's wiring. Those leads constitute the positive and negative electrodes which receive power from the battery. Use 2 wires connected to the same car battery at both terminals, connect the other end of one terminal to one of the little leads on the fuel pump, connect the other wire on the other terminal to the other lead on the fuel pump. Assuming that nothing happens, switch the leads, in case you've got positive and negative mixed up.
Of course, remove your pump from your car before you do this. And, absolutely do not cross the wires if not Gozar will be released lol if not your battery will get fried. |
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#20
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Dam that sounds complicated haha
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#21
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Quote:
I've noticed that most simple mechanical things for our car sounds complicated when the steps are put down in words. However, when you see someone else do it (which is what I was describing above), its really simple. 5 minute job. So...don't worry, it is really simple. |
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#22
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Ok I did the test. Sorry for the lag anyway the pump works. So I'm starting to think its the fuel filter that is cloged. The like connecting to the fuel rail is dry and there is fuel coming from the pump I checked.
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#23
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Quote:
If your fuel pump works, then how come it didn't whirr when you turned the key while it was removed from the tank but still connected to the car's wiring? And anyway, if you can't remember when your fuel filter was changed, you need to change it immediately. Its not a waste of money, and you can always keep the old filter for later if you find that it wasn't very dirty to begin with (this is checked by just pouring out some of the fuel trapped in the filter after its removed...if its very very black, it is dirty, if its only a little black and changes fairly quickly to the normal colour of gasoline, then it wasn't dirty, flush it with water a few times and save for later.) |
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#24
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Could you tell us about this circuit again that did not work when you tested it? Exactly how did you test it? And have you checked your fuse box....are all the fuses ok?
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#25
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Ok update =) she running... it was the fuel filters(the "94 540I has 2). =) she runs like a beauty yay thanks for all the help everyone next on my list is brakes any suggestions? Upgrade or just get oem rotors and and pads?
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