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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 10-24-2010, 09:12 AM
burtondjd burtondjd is offline
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Angry help!! ignition stuck!!

my ignition is stuck. i can take the key out and all acessories stay on (windows, radio, lights, ac, etc....) but the the car will not start. no clicks, beeps, the alarm wont arm. if i disconnect the battery every thing goes right back on when i reconnect. the obc reads all is ok. is it the ignition switch??
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  #2  
Old 10-24-2010, 05:08 PM
zaleonardz zaleonardz is offline
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Can you start the car.
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  #3  
Old 10-24-2010, 06:48 PM
burtondjd burtondjd is offline
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no i cant start the car. i turned the power of by unscrewwing the ignition switch and turning it with a screw driver. but when i turn the key the rod that runs through the steering column doesnt turn, the ignition lock mechanism?
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  #4  
Old 10-24-2010, 08:15 PM
yaofeng yaofeng is offline
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Yes. Replace the ignition lock mechanism. Your lock cylinder is fine.
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  #5  
Old 11-01-2010, 12:14 AM
J-Sauce J-Sauce is offline
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You may not need to replace the whole steering lock mechanism. I had a similar problem on my wagon, and the dealer wanted about $185.00 for the steering lock mechanism. Plus it takes a lot of work to replace.

I was lucky enough to find just the lock shaft and replaced that. The shaft runs inside of the steering lock assembly, and is used to activate the ignition switch as well as disengage the steering lock. The head that receives the end of the key tumbler had twisted and broken off of the shaft, and would not turn the ignition switch back to it's normal position. It just spun.

I wish I did a writeup on this, but I did not have a working camera at the time, and really just needed to get my car back on the road. I would be happy to walk you through it, if you would be kind enough to do the writeup.

If that is your problem, I have good news: I have a spare!
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  #6  
Old 12-29-2010, 04:56 PM
burtondjd burtondjd is offline
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that was it

yeah that was my problem. i found the part at a pick n pull and did the switch myself. a local mechanic said 500 to fix it. i did it for 8 bucks and some time.
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  #7  
Old 12-29-2010, 05:24 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Writeup please ! This problem seems to be occuring more frequently to people. I'm wondering if I should change mine to a new one just to be on the safe side? Does it make a difference?
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  #8  
Old 12-29-2010, 06:03 PM
yaofeng yaofeng is offline
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Your car is at least 15 years old. My prediction is a junkyrad part won't last very much longer. At least that part of the steering lock won't. But I guess we are all in for some kind of punishment owning such an old car.
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'95 525i 5 speed, built 5/94, with a 93 m50tu engine
'94 540it built 3/93, converted to 6 speed with a 93 e32 m60 engine
'01 540it, built 6/01
'03 325i 5 speed, built 9/02
'10 mini 6 speed

Last edited by yaofeng; 12-30-2010 at 06:21 AM.
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  #9  
Old 12-29-2010, 06:30 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaofeng View Post
Your car is at least 15 years old. My prediction is a junkyrad part won't won't last very much longer. At least that part of the steering lock won't. But I guess we are all in for some kind of punishment owning such an old car.
My experience has been that when old parts are changed to new ones, that particular issue tends to disappear maybe 90% of the time. So I'm wondering which is the part that we should be concerned with in this thread. Yaofeng, if you don't mind, could you indicate the part number via a realoem link? I have had locked steering problems, although they seemed to occur only when it turn my wheel to the extreme side, pull out the key, and move the wheel such that it locks itself. It got stuch and took alot of struggling before it worked itself out. This happened twice.
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  #10  
Old 12-29-2010, 08:10 PM
yaofeng yaofeng is offline
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When it happened to me last year on my 95 525i, I destroeyed a perfectly good lock cylinder (#5) to get to the steering lock (#2) being my first time trying to remove the lock cylinder without a proper tool.



So I had to buy a lock cylinder removal tool,



and a new lock cylinder which matches my car key (from the dealer naturally), and a steering lock, also from the dealer.



Here is what I had to go through,

http://www.bimmerboard.org/forums/posts/779065/

If you know what your are doing you only need the steering lock (#2). I should add although the old steering lock looks the same as the new one, a shaft inside the lock connected to the lock cylinder and the ignition switch was broken.
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'95 525i 5 speed, built 5/94, with a 93 m50tu engine
'94 540it built 3/93, converted to 6 speed with a 93 e32 m60 engine
'01 540it, built 6/01
'03 325i 5 speed, built 9/02
'10 mini 6 speed

Last edited by yaofeng; 12-29-2010 at 08:13 PM.
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  #11  
Old 12-29-2010, 08:15 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Thank you yaofeng. I'll reply after i've had some time to understand what you've done. cheers and have a good new year.
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2010, 09:36 PM
wisbimmer20 wisbimmer20 is offline
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Damn I need a jumbotron to see those pics. Let's face it, without lots of money and time dedicated to them, your E34 will be nothing more than an old, albeit good looking, bucket. Do not replace worn parts with other worn parts, buy new, high-quality parts only if you want your car to be taken seriously at all. In some cases used will do, but not in most, not with this car.
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  #13  
Old 01-03-2011, 01:46 PM
J-Sauce J-Sauce is offline
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In this, case there is nothing wrong with utilizing a used part. If BMW, sold the shaft alone, by all means, I would have bought a new one. However, the only way to get the shaft is to spend $150 buying the entire locking mechanism, which I cant imagine breaking on it's own. Not to mention, changing the shaft alone does not require any special tools, and can be completed in under 2 hours the first time around. After you do it once, you can do it in about 15 minutes, should the used one break also. I keep a spare in my car, though I have now driven the car for 8 months, with hundreds of starts and have had no issue. Replacing the lock mechanism takes 10 hours (book time) and requires special tools, and working with the airbag which I would rather avoid doing.

My offer still stands. I will provide the spare part to anyone willing to make a walkthrough. I will also make myself available via telephone to assist in the repair if needed. No charge.

If no one takes me up on it, I may just do it myself, but I don't have photos of a broken one to provide.

EDIT: I found this photo of a broken one, illustrating the point at which the torsion failure occurs:

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Last edited by J-Sauce; 01-03-2011 at 02:13 PM.
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  #14  
Old 01-04-2011, 01:47 PM
Bking Bking is offline
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I'll take you up the offer, mine feels rough at times and is likley going to break after 250k miles.

Is that shaft even pictured on the diagram?
Will it fit a 92 535?
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  #15  
Old 01-06-2011, 09:47 PM
yaofeng yaofeng is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Sauce View Post
In this, case there is nothing wrong with utilizing a used part. If BMW, sold the shaft alone, by all means, I would have bought a new one. However, the only way to get the shaft is to spend $150 buying the entire locking mechanism, which I cant imagine breaking on it's own. Not to mention, changing the shaft alone does not require any special tools, and can be completed in under 2 hours the first time around. After you do it once, you can do it in about 15 minutes, should the used one break also. I keep a spare in my car, though I have now driven the car for 8 months, with hundreds of starts and have had no issue. Replacing the lock mechanism takes 10 hours (book time) and requires special tools, and working with the airbag which I would rather avoid doing.

My offer still stands. I will provide the spare part to anyone willing to make a walkthrough. I will also make myself available via telephone to assist in the repair if needed. No charge.

If no one takes me up on it, I may just do it myself, but I don't have photos of a broken one to provide.

EDIT: I found this photo of a broken one, illustrating the point at which the torsion failure occurs:

Your picture shows what is wrong about using a used part in this particular case.
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'95 525i 5 speed, built 5/94, with a 93 m50tu engine
'94 540it built 3/93, converted to 6 speed with a 93 e32 m60 engine
'01 540it, built 6/01
'03 325i 5 speed, built 9/02
'10 mini 6 speed
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  #16  
Old 01-06-2011, 10:14 PM
J-Sauce J-Sauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaofeng View Post
Your picture shows what is wrong about using a used part in this particular case.
I don't understand your reasoning. Just because the old one broke, it is somehow unacceptable to install a used part? The reason they break is due to the grease drying up, or the plastic collar (normally mounted around where the break is in that photo) breaks, and keeps the shaft from rotating normally when the key is turned. If a shaft is removed in one piece, it likely does not have much wear to this particular area. Especially if the plastic is still intact.

As I stated before, my used shaft came from a 120,000+ mile car. I made sure it was well greased, and it has lasted me over 6 months without issue. I have pulled a few others as spares, but have had no use for them yet.
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  #17  
Old 01-19-2011, 11:58 AM
bcorwin bcorwin is offline
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steering wheel locking

This is a timely thread, our '97 528 steering wheel either randomly will not unlock, or after much jiggling it will unlock until you remove the key. anyone point me at either a walk thru or a good repair manual to show how to pull ignition assembly?
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  #18  
Old 01-19-2011, 12:13 PM
J-Sauce J-Sauce is offline
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Bking, have you received the lock shaft yet?
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