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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-08-2013, 08:41 PM
Quickstreet Quickstreet is offline
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Location: N Fort Myers FL
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 535I
Trunk lid wiring problems?

Thanks ahead for any and all help on this problem. I have a 2008 535I which I purchased used that now has 50k miles. My problem is with the trunk lid. The remote as well as both interior switches will not open the trunk. The trunk hand switch also will not work the release. The key WILL unlatch the trunk,.. however the trunk at this point can not be closed and latched! I have found thru some trouble shooting that the license plate light blinks off-on when using the remote fob. The remote will operate the latch when the trunk is full open . However as I lower the trunk lid the remote as well as the hatch hand switch ceases to operate. Also there appears to be some wiring shorts as the lights dim as the trunk lid is lowered. It takes some finagling to get things to operate but when things appear to work the license plate lights, as well as the trunk interior lights will dim as if there are some shorts.
I have read posts related to earlier models and the wiring associated with those but could not find this on the E60 models. These cars run the wiring thru the left trunk hinge which is a hollow tube. I am going to sort thru the trunk tomorrow and check the wiring where it enters the tube as there doesn't appear to be a problem in the trunk area.
Any help or advice will be appreciated.. Thanks Alan
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  #2  
Old 08-09-2013, 03:47 PM
Quickstreet Quickstreet is offline
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 535I
Well I checked the wiring out and didn't find any problems. I have unplugged the lid latch to keep the motor from running and keeping the latch open all the time. I now can use the key only to unlock the trunk lid and relatching occurs as it should.. Is there a module located that controls the trunk lid alone or is there a central locking module? Does anyone know where it is located at?
I think when I first purchased the car used, the trunk lid may have been opening on it's own. I thought at the time I might have been hitting the trunk button when the fob was in my pocket, but now I am skeptical that it was opening due to some problems with this module!
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  #3  
Old 08-11-2013, 01:51 PM
Quickstreet Quickstreet is offline
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Location: N Fort Myers FL
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 535I
When driving yesterday I noticed several problems. Both left and right license plate lights are not lit and warning alerts on panel also annoying "trunk open " alarm and chimes when stopping and starting at traffic lights..lol..OK I replugged the lid latch and the lights inside trunk and license plate all came back on. Back to Square one...Pulled and disassembled trunk locking mechanism and rechecked the wiring from upper right wheel well area to trunk lid. No chaffing or broken wiring. Also checked hollow hinge arm where wiring enters and exits no problem there also.
When the lock mechanism was disassembled the motor which drives the release latch appears to run backwards once activated! All the time!. This is not possible with the design of the gear and gear actuator post as it will not clear the latching arm thru a 360deg rotation. This stalls the motor and is causing it to get extremely hot. This can be heard as a humming sound coming from the mechanism.
It appears this motor should run clockwise. By manually rotating the white gear and contacting the release arm, the lock will release and when the motor reverses the mechanism is allowed to re-latch as designed. This requires the motor to be powered for a microsecond to bump the release arm activating a micro-switch which is used to stop the motor and possibly ?? reverse the motor for a second.? But this would require some circuitry as the DC motor has only two posts on it. Using a multimeter to read voltage, the power is applied momentarily to the motor (when using the key Fob or door switch) which should rotate the white gear clockwise and drive the release arm a small distance to unlatch the lid. The micro-switch appears to stop/start the motor but will not reverse anything when activated by hand. However the motor is running continuously and in the wrong direction to unlatch the trunk. In short the trunk can be unlocked by key but will not re-latch due to the motor being jammed in the release arm. Anyone else with similar problems? Is the latch just bad?..I don't think there is any circuitry in the mechanism so I think something else is causing the screwy problems I'm seeing.
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  #4  
Old 09-23-2013, 09:40 AM
Quickstreet Quickstreet is offline
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Location: N Fort Myers FL
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 535I
problem fixed...yea!!

Hello readers/owners. After days of pondering the trunk locking problem on my 535 , I rechecked the wiring feeding through the trunk hinge on the right passenger side of the trunk. I found a broken wire inside the wrapped section of the wiring harness. This was located in the section entering the hollow hinge behind the rear seat. Apparently it is due to inadequate flex in the wiring harness and possibly poor selection of wiring coating. I fixed the wire and rechecked the others and found no other problems. I rewired everything and now all is well.
In the future I will be more careful opening the trunk by supporting and thus slowing the trunk opening. This is a problem that has existed for a while and is disappointing in a car so well engineered?
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  #5  
Old 09-23-2013, 09:53 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickstreet View Post
Hello readers/owners. After days of pondering the trunk locking problem on my 535 , I rechecked the wiring feeding through the trunk hinge on the right passenger side of the trunk. I found a broken wire inside the wrapped section of the wiring harness. This was located in the section entering the hollow hinge behind the rear seat. Apparently it is due to inadequate flex in the wiring harness and possibly poor selection of wiring coating. I fixed the wire and rechecked the others and found no other problems. I rewired everything and now all is well.
In the future I will be more careful opening the trunk by supporting and thus slowing the trunk opening. This is a problem that has existed for a while and is disappointing in a car so well engineered?
Good job staying with it until you diagnosed it!

A real PITA but it could be worse. I have heard of similar wire insulation problems in Mercedes Benz S series in the 2004-2006 in some of the main harnesses that are never flexed. Electrical gremlins plague owners until they forced to sell the car.
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  #6  
Old 09-27-2013, 01:58 PM
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gcvt gcvt is offline
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Just had to do this job myself today. Here's what mine looked like...

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Last edited by gcvt; 05-31-2014 at 06:47 PM.
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  #7  
Old 05-27-2014, 12:46 PM
babuja babuja is offline
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Location: CT
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 528xi
Nice Diagnosis: Follow up Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quickstreet View Post
Hello readers/owners. After days of pondering the trunk locking problem on my 535 , I rechecked the wiring feeding through the trunk hinge on the right passenger side of the trunk. I found a broken wire inside the wrapped section of the wiring harness. This was located in the section entering the hollow hinge behind the rear seat. Apparently it is due to inadequate flex in the wiring harness and possibly poor selection of wiring coating. I fixed the wire and rechecked the others and found no other problems. I rewired everything and now all is well.
In the future I will be more careful opening the trunk by supporting and thus slowing the trunk opening. This is a problem that has existed for a while and is disappointing in a car so well engineered?
First off, great thread and analysis on this. I have a 2008 528XI that was/is experiencing the same issue with the lights and humming/buzzing from the actuator. Replaced the actuator but the problem still remains. I knew I should have taken a closer look at the wiring (saw this on the older 5's) but I was running out of time in the afternoon. Secondly, you don't happen to recall which wire it was do you?

On another topic, circuit diagrams? I bought the Bentley manuals for the '97 528i I still own and the '95 525i which I sold, but I'm not really wanting to spend the $$$ for the 2008. Anyone know of anything on the internet?
Thanks
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  #8  
Old 05-27-2014, 12:58 PM
A B Able Truck's Avatar
A B Able Truck A B Able Truck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babuja View Post
First off, great thread and analysis on this. I have a 2008 528XI that was/is experiencing the same issue with the lights and humming/buzzing from the actuator. Replaced the actuator but the problem still remains. I knew I should have taken a closer look at the wiring (saw this on the older 5's) but I was running out of time in the afternoon. Secondly, you don't happen to recall which wire it was do you?

On another topic, circuit diagrams? I bought the Bentley manuals for the '97 528i I still own and the '95 525i which I sold, but I'm not really wanting to spend the $$$ for the 2008. Anyone know of anything on the internet?
Thanks
Look in here;

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...672&highlight=

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  #9  
Old 05-27-2014, 03:16 PM
Quickstreet Quickstreet is offline
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Location: N Fort Myers FL
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 535I
I think it was a small brown wire which was broke. It's been a while though. Just look closely. I missed it several times. I'm sure they break each strand over several cycles, which causes they odd symptoms.
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  #10  
Old 05-31-2014, 05:15 PM
babuja babuja is offline
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Location: CT
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 528xi
Just as you described it, but maybe worse? Click image for larger version

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Thanks for the guidance. Anyone need a spare actuator?


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  #11  
Old 11-16-2014, 05:19 PM
drglock drglock is offline
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Location: Statesboro, GA
 
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Mein Auto: 2007 BMW 525i
You can add me to the list, did this fix this afternoon! 30 minutes well spent, thank you all for the pictures and help!***55357;***56833;
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