X3 Intake Boot replacement procedure

Symptoms: Rough Idle, Loss of power, P0171 and P0174 OBD codes

Fix: Replace Intake boot

Difficulty: 4 out of 10

Time: 2 hours


After the dealer quoted $300+ in labor to replace my intake boot, I decided to do it myself and take pictures along the way. I saw that there wasn't much out here on the process, so I figured I would add to the pool of knowledge.

According to the dealer, this boot is becoming a 100% fail item. Most 05s and 06s have come in for a repair already. They stock the part, and dont even need to look it up, its so common. After seeing how poorly it was made, I am not sure how this didnt become a recall. Paper thin natural rubber.


1.) Purchase part (~ $52) Part # 13543412292
2.) Let your engine cool.
3.) Remove Air filter entirely.
4.) Remove strut brace.
5.) Remove microfilter housing, (see pic below). There are 4 torx t30 i believe, behind the microfilter itself. Once removed, the entire assembly can be removed giving much more access to the engine area.



6.) Remove plastic access panel to the left of the brake fluid Reservoir.



7.) Remove intake valve. (see pic). There are (2) t30 torx holding it in.



8.) Remove Screw holding vaccuum hose to the engine block. Pull out of the way.

9.) You now have access to the 2 clamps holding the Intake boot. One clamp is easy (6mm bolt). The lower one is tough. I needed 1 foot of extensions, a 1/4 in drive swivel and the 6mm socket.


10.) Notice the rips in this boot. Yours should be the same.
11.) Spray some WD-40 on the ends of the new boot to avoid a fight pushing the boot on.
12.) Re-assemble
13.) Clear OBD2 codes


Good luck. 2 hours will save you $300

Thanks for the information, and for developing the DIY procedure! Well done!

Update, and something I need to do on my car as well. On step #7, the intake valve (DISA), should be lightly re RTV'ed (silacone) upon reassembly. It doesnt take much, but without resealing, a slight amout of air will pass through it.

I am told that the 2.5i has an o-ring, so this is just for non o-ring style DISA valves.

Awesome! I totally needed this. I never thought I would have to remove so much crap just to replace this boot but once I did it all went smooth. I didn't need the one foot extension to get the one clamp off but I think I got lucky with the angle it was installed. Thanks again.

this was super helpful thank you. they don't make it easy to work on these that's for sure. some joker in Germany put all the hose clamps facing backwards

My CEL was on P0174 and P0171 codes.... Looked under the hood with a bright light and sure enough....there was a hole in boot. Used this guide to help with replacing it. Took about 2 hours. I've found that to work on anything in this car you pretty much need to pull everything around the area your working on out.. no exception here.

Have to say the CEL did go out immediately but it took almost a week and a half for the system to give a green light on the OBDII code reader. It can take a while for the OBD II to report a state of readiness. For anyone trying to get this to pass emmissions.......be patient, it's not the car it's the logic required by OBDII... It needs to make sure the fix is permanent.

Good write up....thanks.

Originally Posted by Frenchx3

Have to say the CEL did go out immediately but it took almost a week and a half for the system to give a green light on the OBDII code reader. It can take a while for the OBD II to report a state of readiness. For anyone trying to get this to pass emmissions.......be patient, it's not the car it's the logic required by OBDII... It needs to make sure the fix is permanent.

Do you know if you have to drive your car around? or, would it be enought just to let it run (idle)? and how many miles or hours do you think it took to clear the code out? thank you.

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

+1

Originally Posted by alandelucia

Update, and something I need to do on my car as well. On step #7, the intake valve (DISA), should be lightly re RTV'ed (silacone) upon reassembly. It doesnt take much, but without resealing, a slight amout of air will pass through it.

I am told that the 2.5i has an o-ring, so this is just for non o-ring style DISA valves.

The 3.0i DISA has the rubber gasket integrated in the housing. No RTV sealant or separate O ring is required.

The 2.5i engine is the one that can benefit from a seperate O-ring or RTV sealant on the DISA.

Shouldn't they fix this boot under warranty at the dealer...mine wanted $300+ and said it wasn't covered on my certified vehicle? Seems like it wouldn't be a "maintenance" item.

i guess they could call it wear and tear therefore maintenance.

if its been replaced before, when should i check it out again?

Hey - excellent job on your post - I went through the procedure last night with no major glitches, except having to go to Walmart and buy a 1/4 universal, to get to the large clamp, which was difficult to get to, with my 12" long screwdriver.
When you reassemble, just make sure the clamps are accesible, so you won't have any difficult removing them.

Thanks

Would this repair fix a turbo whistle that i hear at 1900-2000 rpm? x3 2004 2.5L (no turbo)

Or could it would it be a pulley? cant figure this out until i take it apart and experiment with control methods..

Originally Posted by x3bimmerkit

Would this repair fix a turbo whistle that i hear at 1900-2000 rpm? x3 2004 2.5L (no turbo)

Or could it would it be a pulley? cant figure this out until i take it apart and experiment with control methods..

Get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Me...4864296&sr=8-1

You'll be able to find the noise in no time. Just watch out for the belts and spinning fan...

LOL.the only time i hear the noise is when the car is in motion and the rpm's reach between 1800-2000..i would need a longer Stethoscope..

Originally Posted by x3bimmerkit

.... the only time i hear the noise is when the car is in motion and the rpm's reach between 1800-2000..

Then that would rule out a pulley, tensioner, vacuum leak and quite a few other engine components.

Most likely driveline related. Transmissions can make a high-pitched whistle noise in a specific speed band, whereas diffs., transfer cases are more likely to make a lower-pitched whine or hum.
Try driving in manual mode and see if it really is rpm related or in fact mph related.

I just got an engine soon light and I get the P0171 and P0174 OBD codes...I replaced the o2 sensors a few days ago so I'm guessing its the boot intake..I'll update this thread if I can successfully repair it. It was suggested by my parts dealer to also replace the crankcase vent valve kit and also the idle control valve.mass airflow sensor and the disa valve.and a new tree air freshener.for the bs smell..any thoughts?.
.Thanks to all! !

Well done. BTW, the Air Mass Meter Boot can be found for about $32 on line.

Appreciate post, had the same problem with '05 X3 at 120,000 miles.

Great post. Thanks for taking the time to document and post the procedure.

As a side note:

These guys sell DISA valve replacement o-rings for the M54, M52tu engines.
http://www.germanautosolutions.com/b...a_o_rings.html

They've got a thread going on over in the E39 forum
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=588505

This post saved me money and it was actually fun to be able to Do the repair yourself. I followed the procedure and pics an I fixed my '06 X3 in about 1.5 hours. I ordered the parts from Bimmer Specialists. Great post and excellent procedure. Thanks again.

thanks a lot man this really helped out.

I checked out mine, sure enough the smaller hose has a couple cracks. From the pics it dosent really say how to remove that back panel?? I saw only one screw holding it in, but i could barely budge it.. is there more?
That valve thing on the intake, how does the electrical connector come loose?

Originally Posted by wyowolf

That valve thing on the intake, how does the electrical connector come loose?

If you are referring to the rectangular box thing - the DISA valve - that had me puzzled too.

Put a finger behind the connector, a few mm. behind, and you will feel a metal loop with a tapered top.
Press that toward you, and the connector now slips right off.

Not obvious as it sits just a bit away from the connector. Not the more typical case of squeezing some plastic part of the connector itself.

When removing the DISA I hear you should take extra care when removing the lower torx fastener to avoid dropping it. Saves time hunting for it around the lower reaches of the oil separator pipes.