I will preface this by saying it took me over 4 days of tinkering in my spare time to get this right, maybe over the span of 6 hours...I could find nothing online that led me in the right direction, and to my knowledge I am the first to attempt to write up a DIY for this Mod...If I am wrong, I apologize...I searched for weeks to no avail...so here it is (sorry for the crappy pics, best I could do)
Materials Needed:
Now for the phantom tape trick, all you need to do is remove the little black spring on the metal arm that receives the tape, tape down the arm with electrical tape and make sure you do not get any errors, if you do I can help you out there, I've gotten them all -- xD (also make sure you save the spring!)
An alternate method, if you're gutsy enough -
Notice the black gear wheel on the end with the motor. What you need to do here is roll the gear, thus rotating the gears it is attached to. What you're doing is simulating loading/ejecting a tape. What you need to do is roll the gear all the way so that it thinks there's a tape inserted. THEN you need to remove the bottom shield, but be careful not to sever the ribbon on the PCB. Once this is done, slowly reattach the gears (making sure not to pinch any of the pullys on the opposite side of the space!!) and roll the gear back a bit more - what this does is lock the tape in the "LOADED" position and it will actually play itself as if there is a tape inserted. -- Much more complex and meticulous, but I truly stumbled on this by complete accident -- xD.
Cheers!:thumbup:
Materials Needed:
- Soldering Iron
- .032" solder 60/40 with Rosen core (no need for flux)
- 3 colors of 16 gauge wire of desired length
- Radio Shack 1/8" 3-Conductor Stereo Phone Jack (Part # 274-0249)
- Aux Cable of desired length
- 4.6 or 4.8mm drill bit
- Phillips head screw driver with swappable heads
- Angle grinder or bore hole drill attachment approximately 1/2" (hack saw will work too)
- Needle nose pliers with wire cutter
- Blank Cassette tape
- A tiny bit of logic and patience =]
- Remove the trim from around the stereo
- Notice the stereo has 4 screws positioned around it, 2 on either side, remove the screws and slide the stereo out.
- Remove the power harness on the back of the stereo by pulling up, first gently until it pops up a little bit, then real hard until it snaps out -- now this part is standard on most BMW stereo systems...kinda loud and surprising at first pull -- Also remove the radio antenna adapter
- Remove the TOP shield by removing the rear 2 screws
- Notice the tape deck in the middle surrounded by 4 tiny gold screws, be careful when removing these they have a tendency to get lodged behind front panel where the buttons are.
- Once all four screws are removed, apply a bit of force and dislodge the tape deck from the "IDE" connector - I usually pull from the right side where the ribbon is, more solid.
- Take a look at the tape deck - this is where I fiddled around and got kinda side-tracked. The back of the tape deck is where the load/eject and gear-pulley system is to play the tape. I tried to bypass having to put a tape inside the tape deck in order to use the AUX inlet, if you choose to contact me, I can walk you through how to bypass it, but it's not easy...takes a lot of patience and an inquisitive mind (my find was completely incidental, there is an easier way I will visit later).
- Find the following points on the back of your tape deck - it is important to realize on a C43 tape deck the wiring diagram is much different than the C33 - I could not find anything on this and had a bit of help from J.Crowell on the wiring which led me to figure it all out eventually.
- This was essentially the hardest part of the entire project, sitting in my car, trying to figure out what is what by touching wires to each point on the board...doing this I shorted it about 5 times, and found out how to eject the tape two different ways...took me about 3-4 hours thinking I had this down initially...
Here are some pictures of what I tried...some are clear, some aren't:
This one was using Pins 1 & 2 which I split and soldered together for the left channel - 3 is the ground which needed to be soldered well to resist interference - 4 & 5 also must be split and soldered together for the right channel...the problem was I had only ONE channel...I tried resoldering many times, to no avail...who knows you can try this it may or may not work for you...
Pin 1 was Ground, Pin 4 was Left, Pin 5 was Right...again, this produced only one channel, and a lot of interference
Pin 3 was Ground, Pin 4 was Left, Pin 5 was Right...this reduced interference but only produced mono again
That's what I ended up with...
- Once you've soldered the back of the tape deck, solder the wire to the respective ports on the AUX jack like so
Red = left Green = Right Black = Ground
- Place the tape deck back into the stereo (no need to screw it back in yet), plug the stereo into the power (you don't need to snap the harness all the way back in, just halfway) and test with a blank tape. Cross your fingers you soldered properly and you should have a working AUX jack.
- From here on our the instructions are all the same as all the other AUX mods - Drill a hole where you wanna run the wire and place the jack - run the wires through the housing using an angle grinder or drill bit to carve out a small chunk of metal - place the shield back on (I actually hack sawed off one of the corners of the shield where the screw went in and just ran the cables out from that corner...one screw was enough to hold it in place) and slide the stereo back in gently - replace all screws and you're basically done!
Now for the phantom tape trick, all you need to do is remove the little black spring on the metal arm that receives the tape, tape down the arm with electrical tape and make sure you do not get any errors, if you do I can help you out there, I've gotten them all -- xD (also make sure you save the spring!)
An alternate method, if you're gutsy enough -
Notice the black gear wheel on the end with the motor. What you need to do here is roll the gear, thus rotating the gears it is attached to. What you're doing is simulating loading/ejecting a tape. What you need to do is roll the gear all the way so that it thinks there's a tape inserted. THEN you need to remove the bottom shield, but be careful not to sever the ribbon on the PCB. Once this is done, slowly reattach the gears (making sure not to pinch any of the pullys on the opposite side of the space!!) and roll the gear back a bit more - what this does is lock the tape in the "LOADED" position and it will actually play itself as if there is a tape inserted. -- Much more complex and meticulous, but I truly stumbled on this by complete accident -- xD.
Cheers!:thumbup: