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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 06-30-2011, 12:00 PM
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MikeCTM2 MikeCTM2 is offline
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seeking clarification

Quote:
Originally Posted by lild View Post
and folks who have a k&n can over oil them on the reclean, and the extra oil can mess up the maf, so the maf may not be bad.



I think the oil from my k & n messed up my MAF. i'm going back to the OEM air filter now.

In your quote, are you saying the MAF does not need to be replaced by this k & n oil thing?
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  #27  
Old 07-20-2011, 07:07 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, a self proclaimed 'bad idler' found his solution in a new coil pack based on this solved bad-idler thread today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Rough Idle Solved
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  #28  
Old 07-24-2011, 10:39 AM
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For the record, a p0303 cylinder 3 misfire was finally diagnosed as to the cause over here today:
- p0303 cylinder 3 misfire, Need All the help I can get PLEASE
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  #29  
Old 07-25-2011, 11:32 PM
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For the record, here is a common cause of a P0171 code, posted by cn90:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > reinstalled the air-box, now I'm getting lean code

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  #30  
Old 09-01-2011, 09:24 AM
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For the record, we've organized the most often recommended freely available software for diagnosing the E39 over here:
- The most often recommended BMW diagnostic tools & cable interfaces (1)

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  #31  
Old 09-25-2011, 11:11 PM
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For the record, this thread from today about replacing the DISA not only solved a P0171, P0174, P0300 misfire but also likely saved the engine, just in time:
- Bingo!! I may have solved the misfire and lean codes P0171, P0174, P0300

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  #32  
Old 09-27-2011, 07:23 AM
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For the record, we probably need a coil-testing DIY for those who have intermittence where the coil-swap DIY doesn't work for them.

This is based solely on this thread:
- Let's talk coil packs.. best brands / prices
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  #33  
Old 10-05-2011, 08:46 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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No sooner do I update this thread than I develop a startling large set of misfire (mostly too lean) diagnostic trouble codes myself:
- Does the ORDER of pcodes listed in an OBDII scanner actually matter?

What I plan on doing is first, renting the $150 Autozone fuel system tester tool and figuring out how to use it to test my I6 fuel system with the Schrader valve:
- How do I test fuel pressure?



And, then, figuring out all the proper sizes of vacuum hoses so that I can replace them all, en masse, if feasible:
- Might we be able to list, with pics (realoem diagrams ok) of ALL E39 vacuum lines?
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  #34  
Old 10-08-2011, 08:56 AM
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For the record, both the poster below and I are finding it difficult to diagnose multiple cylinder misfires which occur under low-rpm cooler-engine conditions and which temporarily go away after an engine restart.
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Multiple Cylinder Misfire With Fuel Cut-off

Quote:
Originally Posted by bagodonuts68 View Post
I am aware of the thorough checklist for diagnosing misfire errors. ... BUT...The checklist is ominous.

How can we narrow my search?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I agree. It's ominous for me also.

It can only be gas, air, spark, compression, or timing.

It's probably not spark, compression, or timing; so it's probably the air:fuel ratio (I realize you knew as much).

I am approaching it, at the moment, by two (imperfect) avenues:
  1. Vacuum leaks:
    • - How to battle E39 vacuum leaks (1) (2) (3)
    • - How to solve specific vacuum leak diagnostic trouble codes such as P0171, P0174, P0313 (1) & P0170, P0173 (1)
    • - Where to find all the vacuum hoses in the E39 (1)
  2. Fuel delivery:
    • - How to replace and service your BMW E39 fuel injectors (1)
    • - Testing (1) and replacing the fuel pump (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
    • - DIY for replacing the fuel filter (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
What we both need, and which neither one of us has found satisfactory yet, is a comprehensive step-by-step procedure for both situations above (vacuum leaks and fuel delivery).

All I can find, for example, are tidbits scattered all over the place.

Sigh.
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  #35  
Old 10-25-2011, 02:56 PM
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This thread is composed of the results of very many threads, and, well, Edjack has suggested clogged cats so many times that I must add it to the diagnostic tree.

Witness today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Misfire on cylinder 1, 2, 3

Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
Possibly a clogged cat in the front cylinders. Engine will misfire, due to the back pressure.

Does it rattle when you tap it with a rubber mallet?
And, others where clogged cats have been suggested as a cause for misfires:
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  #36  
Old 11-15-2011, 08:09 AM
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For the record, some diagnostic codes refer to sensors simply as "sensor 1" or "sensor 2" as shown in this thread:
- Does the order of the misfire OBDII DTCs diagnostic trouble codes actually matter (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
  • SET:
    • P0313 BMW 238 to BMW 243 inclusive, Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
    • P0300 BMW 62 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    • P1083 BMW 202, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    • P1085 BMW 203, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    • P1349 BMW 241, Misfire Cylinder 4 with Fuel Cut-Off
    • P1351 BMW 242, Misfire Cylinder 5 with Fuel Cut-Off
    • P0171 BMW 227, System Too Lean (Bank 1)
    • P0174 BMW 228, System Too Lean (Bank 2)
  • PENDING:
    • P0313 BMW 238 to BMW 243 inclusive, Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
    • P0300 BMW 62 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected


The explanation from this thread is a good reference:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > BMW error codes 151, 154 k

Quote:
Originally Posted by joyism5 View Post
Sensor 1 is always the 1st sensor on the direction of exhaust flow, starting with the exhaust manifold. In this case sensor 1 is the pre-cat sensor. Sensor 2 is the after-cat sensor.
This diagram, kindly annotated by steve530, shows it in detail:


Note this explanation from those threads is quite good for newbies like me:

Quote:
Originally Posted by joyism5 View Post
Fuel controls sensors...there is not such a sensor. The fuel-air mixture is calculated according with the engine's temperature, air volume aspirated by the intake,and air's temperature and the O2 sensors report regarding the CO2. All the math is done by the ECM. A vacuum leak (intake gasket for instance) will let unmetered air to pass in the intake , then the fuel trim cannot adapt to new values, and all the ECM's math is ruined.

Last edited by bluebee; 11-15-2011 at 08:11 AM.
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  #37  
Old 11-29-2011, 07:08 PM
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For the record, the attached document explains the E39 M52, M54, & M62 fuel systems in detail.

Some related excerpts of the components follow below:


Parts:
1. Fuel tank (E38 steel, E39 plastic)
2. Electric fuel supply pump
3. Surge chamber
4. Suction jet pump
5. Pressure limiting valve
6. Outlet protection valve
7. Pressure test line (USA only)
8. Non-return flap
9. Filler pipe
10. Tank cap
11. Tank expansion line
12. Refueling vent line (USA only)
13. Service vent line
14. Expansion tank
15. Roll-over valve
16. Float valve (USA only)
17. Fuel return line
18. Fuel feed line
19. Fuel filter
20. Pressure regulator
21. 3/2-way valve (M52 USA only)
22. Fuel rail
23. Purge line
24. Engine control unit
25. Tank vent valve
26. Intake manifold
27. Vacuum line (LDP USA only)
28. Carbon canister
29. Evaporation line
30. Leakage diagnosis pump (USA only)
31. Tank leakage diagnostic module (USA only)
32. Dust filter (USA only)

While each model (M52, M54, M62, USA vs otherwise, etc.) works differently, here is the excerpt (slightly modified for my M54 USA model):

M62TU/M54:
Both the pressure regulator and the fuel filter are incorporated into a single unit.

The fuel is routed from the electric fuel supply pump via the fuel feed line and the fuel filter/pressure regulator unit to the fuel rail.

The fuel rail is return-free. Excess fuel flows directly from the fuel filter/pressure regulator unit back into the fuel tank.

The fuel tank is vented during refueling via the refueling vent line. Because of its large cross-section, the refueling vent line directs the displaced volume (fuel vapors) at high speed through the expansion tank to the carbon canister.

The activated carbon retains the fuel contained in the fuel vapors. The cleaned air is discharged to the atmosphere via the evaporation line, the leakage diagnosis pump or the tank leakage diagnostic module and the dust filter.

During driving, the system tank is vented in the same way via the refueling vent line and service vent line.

The condensed constituents of the fuel vapors pass from the expansion tank via the service vent line back into the fuel tank.

The float valve in the refueling vent line (E39 only) is closed by the rising fuel if the tank is overfilled. This prevents overflowing of the expansion tank.

The roll-over valve on the upper side of the expansion tank closes in the event of the vehicle overturning. This prevents the fuel from escaping into the carbon canister.

The carbon canister is regenerated by purging with fresh air.

The engine control unit opens the tank vent valve. Thus the vacuum pressure of the engine intake manifold is applied at the purge line. In this way, the carbon canister is purged by the supply of fresh air via the evaporation line, the leakage diagnosis
pump or the tank leakage diagnostic module and the dust filter.

The fuel constituents bound by the activated carbon are flushed out by the supplied air and directed via the purge line to the engine for combustion. This operation is only possible while the engine is running.

The leakage diagnosis pump or tank leakage diagnostic module serves to detect leakages for the tank venting system within the on-board diagnosis laid down by legislation.

The tank venting system is pressurized and the pressure loss is detected in the event of a leak. With the leakage diagnosis pump, the pressure loss is measured by way of the repumping time. The pump is operated with vacuum pressure from the intake manifold via the vacuum line. The tank leakage diagnostic module detects the pressure loss by way of the power consumption of the integrated pump. The air required for this purpose is supplied via the dust filter.

Both systems are activated by the engine control unit.

The pressure test line establishes the connection between fuel tank and filler neck. This enables a leak to be detected in the filler pipe - tank cap area.

Determining fill level in fuel tank
The fuel level is measured by means of lever-type sensors on both sides of the fuel tank. The right lever-type sensor is integrated in the fuel supply unit. The left lever-type sensor is located in the left sensor unit. The combination of the determined ohm values from the right and left lever-type sensors produces the actual level in the fuel tank.

Pressure regulator: M54=3.5 bar (~51 psi), S62=5 bar (~73 psi)
Working pressure of suction jet pumps: 1 bar to 1.3 bar (~15 psi to ~19 psi)
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Last edited by bluebee; 11-29-2011 at 07:28 PM.
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  #38  
Old 02-06-2012, 12:07 PM
Clemenzaa Clemenzaa is offline
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First Iīd like to thank you for this huge work that youīve done collectiong all the information together... I believe it will help (or even save) many, many bimmers (and their owners, of course)...

Here is my problem, if you, or someone, helps me to solve it I might not end up needing mental treatment after all...
So... I am an owner of 2002 320i E46 (I know this is E39 section, but itīs this misfire thing, so...).
About 3 years ago the 4th cylinder (4th and ONLY fourth, this is the most important thing) started to misfire when on idle. So sometimes when I was waiting on lights the 4th cyl was turned off and I had to restart the car... Then it was ok until next long idle (again restart- ok) etc. etc... The car was running great, no hiccups etc... Only on idle the cylinder was turned off and the car had to be restarted... We couldnīt find the cause for about a month maybe more... Then I took it to another mechanic, he did only standard maintenance- replaced fuel filter (which has never been changed- for 140K miles- but thatīs no wonder, official dealers here are terrible), air filter etc. and the problem was solved! It NEVER happened for 3 years... untill now...

The same thing all over again... 4th cyl, only on idle... otherwise the car runs perfect! I must say that the frequency of the cyl turning of is increasing- it happened 1 month ago, then nothing for, letīs say, a week... than twice a week... and now it happens almost every time it idles...
On diagnostic it shows poor cyl 4 quality- itīs interesting that it varies, itīs ok for a while, then worse, then ok, then worse and finally critically bad, and thatīs when itīs turned off

First we tried particular cylinder-related things: putting there new coils, plugs, injector + standard maintenance like fuel filter, air filter... then we tried another DME, wirings (injector and coil)... today we even tried putting there another fuel pump, DISA... NO CHANGES...

Since the problem ceased for 3 years AND the car runs perfect I am very sure that the cylinder itself is ok... Especially given the fact that about 3000 miles ago we did some engine maintenance (replaced piston rings, gaskets etc. etc., checked cylinder head- ok... and the engine was overall in perfect condition, I am the first owner of the car) so those are ok... And, as I said, bad piston rings/head etc. wouldnīt "go away" for 3 years (it didnīt happen even ONCE during that time) now to come back...
I want to try the MAF sensor too, but that would affect all cylinders, not only 4th, right?
Please... just give me some clue what to try next...
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  #39  
Old 04-12-2012, 02:10 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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I have a non-EOM lower boot--used one week if anyone wants for free. Just need to pay shipping (guessing $2 to $5). I was expecting OEM boot. I did not like feel of non-oem which is more plastic like than rubber. And it was not 100% fit like OEM, more like 90% fit. However, it did/does work and is new. Up to you. Just offering it.

Sorry, wrong thread. However, I can't see where to delete it.
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  #40  
Old 04-17-2012, 07:05 PM
Android051 Android051 is offline
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Anyone?

Hello! My first post... But def NOT the first time reading ya'lls forums! every other problem I've had with my 540 has been resolved using these forums, and for that I'm grateful!!!

Heres what I drive:

1998 540i 4.4 (M62) 6 speed

Unfortunately, today finds me with greasy hands, busted knuckles and a newspaper add that reads "Cash for your unwanted car!" ...

First though, thank you Blue for putting up this awesome diagnostic thread! I've read threw it many times in the last few days/weeks. So heres my story, hopefully someone can guide me in the right direction because right now I feel like I'm just throwing parts at this car (and ten it laughs in my face!!)

--it started a few weeks ago when I was at a red light. A rough idle, waiving from 500 - 100 rpm (up and down)

-- then I was on the highway and the car started to shake, the CES flashed then was steady.

-- the car ran fine next time I started it (the next day)

-- about 5 miles down the road the car shook again.

-- I ran my PEAK code thing, and it returned "Random misfire"

-- the next day the car was fine till (again) about 5 miles down the road.

-- Next I replaced ALL 8 Coils, boots, plugs, and the CCV.

-- ran good, >5 miles, misfires... But now the PEAK generated "Misfire #6 (cat damaging) and #8 (cat damaging)

-- I replaced the 6 and 8 fuel injectors today. it ran GREAT! Then after about 8 miles, plop... misfires again. ran the PEAK coder, and got the same exact codes (6 and 8 misfire)
I disconnected the MAF and the idle didn't change.

I realize that it is something that is cutting the fuel to those cylinders, but any ideas where to go from here? The car is a second vehicle right now, but if I can't figure it out I'll have to sell it for parts or something

Thanks in advance fellas!!
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  #41  
Old 04-22-2012, 08:34 PM
Android051 Android051 is offline
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***bump***

BUMP

And or update...

Tried driving the car without the D/S Pre-cat O2 out today. Thinking that maybe the Cat was clogged on that side.

The car ran perfect for about 30 - 40 minutes of continuous driving, then misfires and shakes ensued...

Ok, so I guess it's not the Cats then...

Can a Cold air intake cause specific cylinders to misfire consistently? I wouldn't think so but I'm trying think of anything at this point.

Any ideas where to go? Also I posted the car for sale :P But I'd love to fix it first!

Thanks
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  #42  
Old 06-02-2012, 11:24 PM
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I was remiss in that I should report back that my year-long quest to locate the source(s) of a long-standing lean misfire condition (many codes) was resolved simply by replacing a few rubber hose/tubes/pipes/boots/caps/o-rings & gaskets.

Specifically:
a) I first replaced all the rubber tubes/hoses/pipes/plugs I could easily get to in the engine bay ... which immediately helped somewhat lessen the frequency of the lean-condition misfire codes ...
- Where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1)

For example, the air pump valve tube fell apart in my hands:


But, as insurance, I replaced all the vacuum hoses/tubes/pipes/endcaps/gaskets/o-rings I could easily get to.

b) I then ran a smoke test ...
- How to make your own smoke machine (1)


c) Which pinpointed a lower CCV vent hose leak (only accessible from under the vehicle) ...
- Does the order of the misfire OBDII DTCs diagnostic trouble codes actually matter (1)


d) I also unclogged the dipstick guide tube which was clogged solid (and perhaps was a reason for the CCV vent hose leak) ...
- How to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube to prevent CCV vent clogs (1)


e) Lastly, I replaced the rubber boot which is connected to the ICV & TCV.


That series of simple replacements finally resolved my long-standing lean condition misfires!

BTW, while I rarely solve problems by replacing components without learning how to test them, I concur that one way to solve perplexing lean condition misfires, at this age of our bimmers, is to simply replace every vacuum-related rubber hose/tube/pipe/boot/cap/gasket/o-ring in the engine bay.
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File Type: pdf OBDproc.pdf (3.06 MB, 139 views)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-04-2012 at 03:10 AM. Reason: Added OBD file from FTP thread ...
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  #43  
Old 08-26-2012, 03:05 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Today was a thread where cn90 & ztom pointed out to the OP that a cylinder #3 misfire with no other DTCs could be (and was) a cracked engine block:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cylinder 3 Misfire

Quote:
Originally Posted by epremsoft View Post
I tried everything and still I have misfire on cylinder 3.

There is no other codes only P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire detected)
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
You probably overheated the engine recently.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ztom View Post
Typical for cyl 3 head crack on 528. I find coil packs usually don't fail.
Quote:
Originally Posted by epremsoft View Post
I think I found the problem... its head gasket! there is a leak on cylinder 3, so it taking coolant and it mixing it with the oil! How much do you guys think its gonna cost me?
- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test an engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) (2) & replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & the most recent real-world results from the last 50 people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 08-26-2012 at 03:08 AM.
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  #44  
Old 09-18-2012, 06:57 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Apparently the knock sensor can also be a source of misfiring, as described here today:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ztom View Post
I did a lot to track this down, discussion on this thread..
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ire+under+load

..but today it is solved - I disconnected the knock sensor and the stumble/misfire at freeway speeds under load (like going uphill) is gone. I've ordered a new knock sensor but driving around I don't detect any issue for now with the sensor disconnected.

I think for any e39 over 150K mi, I recommend at least to disconnect the sensor to see if some power is restored in the 3-4K rpm range. This problem started maybe 10-20K miles ago, at first at 3500 rpm and then most recently it happened under less load and at lower revs down to around 2800rpm.

Here's my story, may help others:

>Did easy misfire DIY first - swapped coils between cylinders and put in new plugs, and checked old plugs for signs of misfire.

>Changed the bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor because I could see dynamically on the code reader it was lazy

>Swapped in a spare CPS and vanos solenoid, no change. Note in doing this it's easier if you take off the oil filter cap to get more room.

>Pulled the fuel rail and swapped out the FPR and injectors with another 528i, no change. Also cleaned the injectors in ultrasonic with 70% alcohol/water.

>Swapped in spare MAF

>Then I realized I could check the STFT trims in real time. I could see that I was not having a lean condition (as happens if MAF dirty or non-metered air getting in via any intake boot crack), rather STFT's were fine even under load. I did notice that when it stumbled the timing advance would drop from +30 degrees (typical at frwy speeds) in quick drops to say 27 degrees. I attributed this to knocking, but now I realize it was the knock sensor sending a false signal. Appears that under load the ECU is interpreting a bad knock sensor signal as a knock.

>Then disconnected a lot of things all at the same time - MAF, Vanos, both pre-cat O2's. Problem persisted.

>Finally, with everything connected again, I disconnected only the knock sensor. The plug is under the intake manifold next to cylinder 4. I did not need to remove the intake. Rather took off the bolts to the PS fluid reservoir, removed the oil filter cap, removed the +12V bolt on the intake and pushed the 12V socket down below the intake. In this way I could reach under the intake and pull off the knock sensor connector. Driving around, I'm still expecting to see a CEL for missing knock sensor, but I drove once so far for about 20min under various loads/speeds, no CEL yet.

One of the replies earlier suggested I replace the knock sensor. Whoever that was, thank you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ztom View Post
Update..
..I replaced the knock sensor & it solved the stumble. During the time I had disconnected it I only got a cel once, strange. The car definitely when into limp mode, poor acceleration from no timing advance. I didn't need to remove the intake manifold to replace sensor. Now I see how much power I lost from a knock sensor degrading. A degraded knock sensor quietly robs performance.

..with this much power it's clear my cats are ok, not plugged.
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  #45  
Old 10-10-2012, 10:37 AM
2004M3JMF 2004M3JMF is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 M3 convertible
2001 540iT misfire

Hey, I had running issues with my 540iT this week. It started on Monday. Check engine light came on and started blinking. I pulled over, shut off, restarted and same thing happened again and I noticed a sluggish engine. Well, I did this for the next 5 miles to reach work. Later that day I had the car towed to my indy explaining the problem. He called the next day and said:

OBD code was P0305 and said I had a cylinder 5 misfire. I authorized him to check further and he called me later that day and said he checked the coils and swapped to opposing cyl. No change. When he was in there he noticed intermittent injector function to cyl 5. He removed harness cover and found wire had backed out of connector to injector. Repaired connection, cleared codes and restested okay. Car drove in to work fine this morning. Glad I got out of this one with a full pocket.

Anyway, wanted to add my misfire story here.

m
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  #46  
Old 10-10-2012, 10:53 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004M3JMF View Post
P0305 ... cylinder 5 misfire...wire had backed out of connector to injector
Nice. Thank you for updating the thread.

I believe there is a finite number of 'events' which cause misfires, so, one by one, anecdotally, we should be able to document them all!

Thanks for taking the time to help others!
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #47  
Old 10-11-2012, 10:48 AM
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gchand gchand is offline
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My indie told me the first suspect is the air boot small tube - appears to crack open and cause alot of the misfire readings. That's the first thing they inspect and replace.
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  #48  
Old 10-15-2012, 11:35 AM
yoman793 yoman793 is offline
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^^^ great thread. thanks bluebee!
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  #49  
Old 12-02-2012, 01:41 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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There is a great thread on M54 cold-weather misfires over here that I just found:
- Cold weather misfires and CEL, common issues $50 fix!

EDIT
I had forgotten to update this thread, so I just wish to update the process I followed to resolve my lean condition misfire codes:
- Does the order of the misfire OBDII DTCs diagnostic trouble codes actually matter (1)

After identifying & replacing all the visible hoses I could:
- How to locate all problematic (between 1/8" & 9/32" ID) 3.5x1.8mm, 3.3x1.8mm & (between 17/64" & 9/32" ID) 7mm ID vacuum tubing (single material), vacuum hoses (multiple material), 3.3mm OD curved vacuum pipes (rigid tubes), 3.5mm & 7mm ID vacuum endcaps (closed end) & 7x3mm manifold o-rings (1) & 7.52X3.52mm and 9.2X2.8mm fuel injection o-rings (1) & gaskets (1) on the M54 engine & where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to make, borrow, or buy lean-condition misfire test tools to test for vacuum leaks & lean conditions (1) (2)

I STILL had multiple lean misfire codes, so I checked the fuel system:
- How does the E39 fuel injection work (1) & what are the most often recommended fuel pump & fuel filter brands (1) (2) & a DIY for replacing the fuel filter (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & a quick test for fuel pump operation (1) (2) and a DIY for replacing the fuel pump (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how to replace and service your BMW E39 fuel injectors (1) & details on replacing the 7.52X3.52mm and 9.2X2.8mm fuel injector o-rings (1) & the location of the K96 fuel pump relay (1) & where is the fuel system pressure test Schrader valve for the I6 (1) & where is the fuel pressure test point for the V8 (1) (2) (3) & where is the location of the fuel pump relay K96 (1) & cleaning (1) (2) & replacing the fuel sensor (1) & resolving blown fuses due to a stuck fuel filler door solenoid (1)

But I still had lean condition misfire codes; so I checked the DISA:
- Where to get a proper DISA valve repair kit (1) & how some jury-rig 'repair' a rattling DISA unit (1) (2) (3) & how the DISA valve operates (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test DISA operation (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & a simple DIY to install an M54 DISA (1) & a nice DISA autopsy (1) (2) & a great DISA group buy (1) & how the disa valve o-ring fails (1) (2) & how it can reputedly cause all sorts of cold-engine rough idle problems (1) (2) & where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1) & why you want to check the DISA at 100K miles or whenever the airbox is removed (1) (2) & why the DIfferenzierte SAuganlage ("Differential Air Intake") valve flap breaks (1), sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) & a well documented example of how a broken DISA flap can ruin your engine (1) & yet another seemingly complex set of misfire codes reputedly traced to a broken DISA valve (1)

But I still had lean condition misfire codes; so I had to run a smoke test:
- How to make your own smoke machine (1)

The smoke test located a badly broken CCV lower vent hose:
- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1)

Which also enabled me to unclog the wholly clogged dipstick tube:
- How to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube to prevent CCV vent clogs (1)

A subsequent smoke test located a bad lower boot connected to the throttle:
- How to diagnose a BMW E39 engine misfire (1)

With the final result being a passed California smog certificate:
- Results of California smog emissions tests (1)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 12-09-2012 at 05:17 PM.
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  #50  
Old 12-02-2012, 01:53 PM
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Fudman Fudman is online now
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Mein Auto: '02 530i Sport auto
Wow, That is a GREAT thread! One of the best compilations of M54 engine problems I have seen. Awesome!!!
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