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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 11-21-2010, 11:36 AM
redidrum redidrum is offline
redidrum
Location: Indianapolis
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 38
Mein Auto: 2001 BMW 525i
Unhappy Frustrated P1342 and P1349 Codes

Frustrated P1342 and P1349 Codes

Hello Blubee, Poolman, and Everyone else,

I have had this problem for 2 years. Mostly on cold start code P1349 and sometimes with code P1342, #1 and #4 Misfires. I have done the following...

1) Replaced the Cam Position Sensor - Exhaust 4 times. OEM parts. Replaced CPS Exhaust connector.

2) Replaced the Valve Cover gasket and cylinder gaskets inside Valve cover gasket that was causing wet plugs.

3) Have replaced Coil packs and boots on all cylinders and all plugs.

4) Have done the complete CCV Crankcase Vent Valve Winter kit and all hoses only to find the PO had already done it after getting all the way in there !!! I do have parts if anyone needs them ???

5) Cleaned MAF and replaced all hoses and ducts to engine including the end bent one that cracks.

6) Replaced all Belts, Alternator, and all Belt Tensioners.

7) Just for grins, replaced the Radiator reservoir unit

I have so many spare OEM Cam Position Exhaust side sensors I was considering swapping them for the Intake sensor by splicing into the pigtail connection. Looks as though the only reason I can think of is that BMW put a pigtail in was for space. Has anyone done this or does anyone know if the size will fit in the hole ???

The only things I haven't done yet ar Intake CPS, Vanos, ICV clean, Clean Fuel Injectors - "O" rings, O2 sensors, Fuel Filter, and ITV unit.

Any Help would be appreciated.

I'm almost tempted to go the dealership and have them run a full diagnostic for $65 and tell me what is wrong before I throw $2300 at it in repairs again. I can throw parts at it myself if they tell me where to go. Tired of spending cash for nothing resolved.

I read somewhere that the vanos seal replacement was only for 1999 - 2000 2.5L.

I have been keeping my code scanner hooked up and strapped over steering wheel for 2 years. Clear the code a few times on cold starts.

To do nothing and not deal with the problem is not good with my bad case of OCD.

When car is past the blue band over 1/4 up temp on gauge she runs like a dream.

I can still hear a slight lulling sound and drops to 600 rpm and to 800 rpm randomly.

Moving back to So. Cal may help my problem Blue Bee !!! I'm an old FAA Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic. I now work in Administrative duty, but, know a lot about mechanical working units. I'm slowly learning my way around the car in due time. I've done a considerable amount of work to the car on my own. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Ron
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  #2  
Old 11-21-2010, 03:36 PM
pshovest pshovest is online now
BMW CCA 69606
Location: DE
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 653
Mein Auto: '10 535iA, '00 528iTM
Move fuel injectors 1 and 4 to cylinders 2 and 5 and see if codes move.

Paul S
BMW CCA 69606
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  #3  
Old 11-21-2010, 04:06 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Everything I know about misfires is posted here:
General diagnostic procedure for a single or multi-cylinder E39 misfire?
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  #4  
Old 11-21-2010, 04:49 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Location: martinsville va
 
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Mein Auto: 525i station wagon
Check back behind the intake for vac leaks-you will need a flashlight and small mirror to see back there and will need to remove the cabin air ductwork on the drivers side to work around there -check the intake distributor for leaks as well---as far as Vanos seals the seals are fro all of the 6 cylinder cars from 99 all the way up to 08---so I think your car fits in there as well---
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  #5  
Old 11-21-2010, 06:14 PM
safety glasses safety glasses is offline
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Location: NJ
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Mein Auto: 2000 528
I dont know if you pulled the disa valve during your ccv adventure but I would suggest pulling it out and inspecting the gasket. Mine was really hard and brittle, and it cracked into pieces when I tried to put the disa back in as I was wrapping up my ccv r/r.
Its easy enough to get at and caused a cyl 4 misfire w/ fuel cutoff and made my car run like crap until i replaced it.
If it looks fine then I'd say its time to start hunting for vac leaks.
You can also try to hear if all the injectors are spraying (they click). Touch them with a screw driver and you should be able to feel them pulse.
BUT when the system cuts fuel to a cylinder because of a misfire, obviously, those injectors wont be pulsing. So you'll have to clear the codes first (Correct? Or could he just restart the car?)
Hope this helps!
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  #6  
Old 11-22-2010, 10:55 AM
redidrum redidrum is offline
redidrum
Location: Indianapolis
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 38
Mein Auto: 2001 BMW 525i
It worked !!! I cut 2 inches off the Intake cam Position sensor pigtail wire, Soldered in 3 new wires to an OEM Exhaust Cam Position Sensor, Removed vanos tube and hose going to it, removed Oil Filter housing. Had a 3 prong connector in my pile of parts. Hooked up from top left yellow, green, and red. Had to clip off 1/4" off top of connector to bend wires clear of vanos tube. Used 3/8" conduit and electrical tape to protect wires. Works like a champ ! No Codes !!! best part is that I can now access it easier without removing a bunch of air box stuff. See pix. Cost me ZERO DOLLARS !!! 5 Beer and 3 hour Job my friends...

Had 6 cold starts so far and no faults. Morrow of story, don't just keep buying Cam poisition Sensors Exhaust side because you can't find the Intake one that you know is there, but, are too lazy to tackle. On these cars you have to dig deep and lay parts out in order on the order they came out. Always have a magnetic reach tool on hand when you drop sockets. Best way is to remove lower tray so tools can maybe reach the ground. This was not near as bad a job as the CCV valve winter kit only to find out the PO had already done it. happy sailing !!!

I do believe the exhaust sensor into the intake and connector is a more solid setup than the pigtail setup. At least now I don't need to dig deep to replace it again.

I did the Disa Valve fix with red high temp aircraft RTV on shaft and made seal when doing CCV already. Shaft was broken inside. Made seal around unit and where it mates to block. Sealed and let sit overnight. Inspected again yesterday and still rock solid. Swapped coil packs and plugs several times earlier too. Went around the block 16 times before getting creative here...

Thanks for all of the Help Guys. you are the best !!!!!!

Check pix here.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=1#post5644446
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  #7  
Old 11-22-2010, 04:23 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Mein Auto: 525i station wagon
Great to hear the good news--now plan for the Vanos seal repair job--don't sell this mod short--best thing you can do for your engine--the seals degrade so slowly that you think that all is fine--only way for you to really know how much your missing is to jump in and do the work--look around and read and learn from all who gone before---your engine will love it.
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  #8  
Old 12-08-2010, 08:48 PM
redidrum redidrum is offline
redidrum
Location: Indianapolis
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 38
Mein Auto: 2001 BMW 525i
Thanks Poolman,

I got the damn codes again after a few weeks. Morrow of story... to keep from getting cold start faults don't release the idle below 1500 rpms until car reaches above the 1/3 warm or above blue temp range. never faults. Runs like a dream with no fault codes after that every day. I check it on the fly with my handy little checker. Clear codes on the fly too.

Thinking the Vanos is next to be done, regretably sounds like a pain in the ass. Does my brand new valve cover gasket get destroyed coming out? I've heard of guys breaking the valve cover, plastic, coming out. I didn't do the gasket myself earlier.

Will the vanos clean up my wandering idle too? Seems to want to get a lulling sound from 800 to 600 rpm at a stop light every 20 seconds.

Thanks,

Ron

Last edited by redidrum; 12-08-2010 at 08:51 PM.
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  #9  
Old 12-09-2010, 06:22 AM
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agent15 agent15 is offline
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Mein Auto: 87 325is, 02 530i Sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by redidrum View Post
Thinking the Vanos is next to be done, regretably sounds like a pain in the ass. Does my brand new valve cover gasket get destroyed coming out? I've heard of guys breaking the valve cover, plastic, coming out.
It's not too much of a PITA, though it is time consuming. Just read through the Beisan DIY a few times, use it as a guide to get all the parts you'll need for the job in advance, and follow it to the letter - you'll be fine. If your VCG is new you should have no problem removing it with the cover. The VCGs that are brittle and problematic coming out are the ones that have been in the car for a very long time (100K in my case).
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For me, the e39 is the ... best balance of luxury ... performance ... good looks and class. Sort of the Catherine Deneuve of cars, if you get my drift.
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  #10  
Old 12-17-2010, 09:51 PM
redidrum redidrum is offline
redidrum
Location: Indianapolis
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Mein Auto: 2001 BMW 525i
Thanks Agent 15. Will tackle soon. Just got my new spring to fall E92 M rims from matt at umnitza.com Should look great. Fitment exact for e-39.
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  #11  
Old 11-16-2011, 02:21 PM
noelm3 noelm3 is offline
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Location: providence, ri
 
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Mein Auto: 2002 m3
Hi

hello everyone the engine code brought me here..i have read already the posting regarling the engine code p1342....bad idling and lost of power.....hope everyone is having fun with their bimmer...thanx...noel
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  #12  
Old 01-16-2012, 11:38 AM
bimdit bimdit is offline
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Location: Tampa, Florida
 
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Mein Auto: 2003 BMW M3
P1342/P1343 Fault codes

These two codes suggest a misfire in cylinder 1 of your E46. I'm a Systems Analyst by profession, so I'm not so fluid with mechanical terminology.
Coincidentally my M3 started with the rough idle symptom right after the non-mechanical guru decided to do his own brake job. This caused me to suspect that I either clogged the injectors or fuel filter after agitating the thrash at the bottom of the fuel tank from jacking up the car. After several doses of Seafoam I ruled that out. I then took the car to Advanced Auto Parts for a free diagnostic. There were two codes of P1342 and P1343. These translated to misfires in cylinder 1. Reading previous posts here pointed me to either fuel, vacuum leak, coil pack or camshaft position sensor. Since there were so many possibilities. I figured the easiest to confirm would be the coil packs. So I switched the coil pack from cylinder 1 to cylinder 6 then returned to Advance Auto Parts for another diagnostic. It resulted in a misfire in cylinder 6. I then bought a coil pack from Bay Area Imports for $39.00. I also changed the spark plugs since I had to go so far anyway. Problem solved. The car runs the best it ever had since I bought it. I actually spent more on Seafoam than it cost me to replace the faulty coil pack.
This is my virgin post. I hope it helps one of you for your posts have helped me.
Next project. The screaming power steering pump.
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