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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #1  
Old 11-27-2010, 05:42 PM
Miss_BimmerLV Miss_BimmerLV is offline
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Mein Auto: 5/98 L7 Shorty
Coolant Temp -128*C ????

Hi there. As of lately I have been having some cooling issues with my E38. I took it to the shop a couple of days ago to have all my fluids replaced cuz it was about time. So the night after I took home from the shop. I went to walmart. After I came out. I noticed a large puddle of coolant underneath the engine. So I let the engine cool. Drove it home. And the next day took it back. The shop is like 5 mins away thank goodness. The guy stated that there may have been air in the system. So he did his thing, and like 40 or 50 mins later, He said he fixed it. Needless to say , He did not. The car still overheats. Too much pressure builds and the coolant comes spewing out the cap. ( VERY unsightly ) The thermostat was replaced at the beginning of Oct. Along with all the hoses + the Heater core. There doesnt seem to be a leak. As the coolant always stays at the same level. And now as of recent. When I crank the car, after a few minutes, The temp guage goes DIRECTLY to the red square. The "check engine light" popped on....So I IMMEDIATLEY cut the car off. But when i pop the hood, the engine is the same temp as outside. No steam plumming up and doesnt even feel hot. I unlocked the OBC computer to check the temp guage w/ with what the OBC says. The car runs normally for 3 to 4 mins with the engine being the same temp as outside ( like today +009*C )..then the "check coolant level" code dings....and the needle goes DIRECTLY to the red square, then the Coolent temp on the OBC reads "-128*C" Then I cut the car off. I also have the heat going too when I doing this. ( blowing out cold air of course )

I dont think the Water pump or the Radiator has ever been changed on the car. Do you think that maybe one of these could be causing the problem???


The car has 163k Miles on it.

Thanks a bunch!!
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(E38) 740Ai L | Name: Allyssa | MD: 5/98 | Clr: Arktissiber Metallic, Int: Grau/Schwarz | Rims: 18" OEM E66 Style 94's (10 Spoke)(Chromed),
Tyres: Falken 235/45-18 | Miles: 165K | Age: ( A True Lady NEVER Reveals Her Age ) | Eng: M62 4.4L (V8), 32 Valves, 282 HP @ 5700 RPM |
Fl Cap: 22.5 GAL, 17c/24h MPG | MSRP $65,500 | 142 MPH @ 4k RPM


Last edited by Miss_BimmerLV; 11-28-2010 at 04:29 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2010, 08:46 PM
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wilk187 wilk187 is offline
2001 740il Sport, RIP
Location: Nashville
 
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theres a great chance the system still has air in it..when i changed coolant hoses, the alternator (i had the water cooled one), or the expansion tank, i sometimes had to bleed the cooling system 4 times to get all the air out of it (air will cause the same problems you're describing). I would try it another time before swapping out any other parts. Buy some more coolant (preston 50/50 will work, but i wouldn't mix much if you've already used the bmw brand).

Open the exansion cap (slowly and carefully)
Remove the bleed screw (plastic screw next to the exansion tank)
Start the car and let it get warm
Call a friend
have friend turn on the heat full blast
have friend push the accelerator to get your rpms to about 1500 (very light push)...
Add coolant in a slow and steady manner..
Continue to add coolant until it begins to pour/bubble out of the bleed screw (i would normally do this in a parking lot so i wouldn't make a mess in the garage )
Kinda tricky part--continue to slowly pour coolant but look inside the expansion tank for coolant to start to trickle inside of the tank from the return hole in the side of the tank (may need a flashlight)...
***it was always difficult for me to see so i just purposely overfilled the tank, knowing the excess would seep out of the cap over time anyway

Hope this helps..remember, it sometimes took me up to 5 times to get all of the air out of the system..my suggestion, buy 2 gallons of coolant (1 extra) in case you need to repeat the procedure.

Good luck!!
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2010, 07:01 AM
balance balance is offline
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I agree with wilk187, in that you have air in the system. The thing that gave it away for me, was that you say the heat was blowing out cold.

If the motor was overheating, which it is, and the cooling system was full of coolant, the heat would be blowing out hotter than normal, not colder.

I would bleed it in the way wilk187 described, and when you are finished, take it out and really drive it. Maybe keep a spare bottle of coolant in the trunk for the next week just in case, and check the coolant level every morning.
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2010, 04:00 PM
Miss_BimmerLV Miss_BimmerLV is offline
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Thank You so very much for the info. Will try the method above and let you guys know what happins. So no worries about the the temp guage shooting directly to the red box after a few minutes of idle??? ( Even though the engine is ice cold. )


I REALLY love this forum!!! ( & My "Allyssa" ( E38)


XOXO
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(E38) 740Ai L | Name: Allyssa | MD: 5/98 | Clr: Arktissiber Metallic, Int: Grau/Schwarz | Rims: 18" OEM E66 Style 94's (10 Spoke)(Chromed),
Tyres: Falken 235/45-18 | Miles: 165K | Age: ( A True Lady NEVER Reveals Her Age ) | Eng: M62 4.4L (V8), 32 Valves, 282 HP @ 5700 RPM |
Fl Cap: 22.5 GAL, 17c/24h MPG | MSRP $65,500 | 142 MPH @ 4k RPM


Last edited by Miss_BimmerLV; 11-28-2010 at 04:02 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2010, 06:04 PM
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wilk187 wilk187 is offline
2001 740il Sport, RIP
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The fact that your temp gauge pegs hot as soon as your car starts is a great clue that you probably have air in the line.

Who's your daddy? Haha
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  #6  
Old 11-29-2010, 04:51 PM
Miss_BimmerLV Miss_BimmerLV is offline
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@ Wilk187, Funny

Ok...So its my Friday ( end of my work week ) And I tried Wilk187's method of purging my system of air. Needless to say , it sure took care of the temp gauge going DIRECTLY to the red only after a few minutes. Thanks Wilk!


Anyhoo, After doing the above mentioned method. ( My 1st try ) I drove around the block w/ the heat on 90* FULL blast, keeping an eye on the "OBC" Ktemp levels. They were around a constant 108*C - 110*C (maybe 111*C for a few seconds ) ( But this was VERY easy driving. ) The temp guage needle stayed neatly in between the blue / red squares. The "Check Coolant Light" did not appear during the test. ( Thats a good thing right?! ) Tomorrow morning I will get up and check the coolant level again and try the above mentioned method once more and see if there are any differences. At the beggining of the test. I SLOWLY poured coolant in until i saw some bubbling out of the air escape screw hole. The red stick o meter floted to the top so i figured I should stop. I notice that my stick doesnt have a ball on it, like others i hear about. Just a BARELY visible notch. And if you dont look hard enough..you can miss it! So we will see tomorrow!

And whilst driving around keeping a constant temp of 108*C - 110*C , The heater actually started to throw out heat! I dont know if the succession of todays test was merely from the fact that it was 45*F here in Las Vegas today. ( Cold Outside ) and helping the engine to cool off quicker than normal or just that some of the air is leaving the system. Tomorrow its supposed to be 47*F...Maybe I should try this on a warmer day.

I LOVE my E38!!!!

Seeing as how I have 163,000 Miles on her...Do any of you think it is wise to just go ahead and replace the radiator & water pump just to get it out of the way???? And whilst at it, Switch over to the BMW "BLUE" coolant? ( Right now I am using a GREEN 50/50 mix from peak. Guy didnt have any preston ) & maybe buy a OBD II reader or sumthing, to reset the check engine light??? ( now its on from a few days ago )


THANK YOU for all your help guys. it is GREATLY appreciated!!!

XOXO
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(E38) 740Ai L | Name: Allyssa | MD: 5/98 | Clr: Arktissiber Metallic, Int: Grau/Schwarz | Rims: 18" OEM E66 Style 94's (10 Spoke)(Chromed),
Tyres: Falken 235/45-18 | Miles: 165K | Age: ( A True Lady NEVER Reveals Her Age ) | Eng: M62 4.4L (V8), 32 Valves, 282 HP @ 5700 RPM |
Fl Cap: 22.5 GAL, 17c/24h MPG | MSRP $65,500 | 142 MPH @ 4k RPM


Last edited by Miss_BimmerLV; 11-29-2010 at 05:23 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2010, 12:26 AM
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wilk187 wilk187 is offline
2001 740il Sport, RIP
Location: Nashville
 
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No problem. Buy me a drink next time I'm in Vegas! I had 150k on my e38 when I wrecked it this year, and I changed the entire cooling system piece by piece. Advantage of that is it's cheaper. Disadvantage you waste alot of coolant and have to reviews the system. I wouldn't change the water pump unless you just have extra time to kill, but that's just me. The radiator is actually an easy swap and I would do it. Go to oembimmerparts.com or autohausaz.com to get one cheap
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  #8  
Old 11-30-2010, 04:29 PM
balance balance is offline
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An overheat should not have caused the CEL to cut on. You should scan the ECU and see what code is stored.
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  #9  
Old 11-30-2010, 06:22 PM
Miss_BimmerLV Miss_BimmerLV is offline
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Well, After doin wilk's above test once yesterday, A trying BMW's approved bleeding method for the E38/E39 TODAY, The CEL light popped off, I havent heard from it since. ( Nor have I had a "Check Coolant Level" light. ) I was waiting at a light today, and noticed it was off! ( I thought to myself, "neat ")

I drove all around town today keepin an eye on the Ktemp levels. Gets to 108*C whislt waiting, then back down to the high 90's when I start movin. So I guess things are fallin into place * Humps Shoulders *

We shall definitely see tomorrow!


XOXO
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(E38) 740Ai L | Name: Allyssa | MD: 5/98 | Clr: Arktissiber Metallic, Int: Grau/Schwarz | Rims: 18" OEM E66 Style 94's (10 Spoke)(Chromed),
Tyres: Falken 235/45-18 | Miles: 165K | Age: ( A True Lady NEVER Reveals Her Age ) | Eng: M62 4.4L (V8), 32 Valves, 282 HP @ 5700 RPM |
Fl Cap: 22.5 GAL, 17c/24h MPG | MSRP $65,500 | 142 MPH @ 4k RPM

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  #10  
Old 11-30-2010, 10:01 PM
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wilk187 wilk187 is offline
2001 740il Sport, RIP
Location: Nashville
 
Join Date: May 2008
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Mein Auto: 2006 750i Sport, '14 GTR
I grew with balance about the CEL though. Take it to autozone and have them read the error code. Just to close the loop
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  #11  
Old 12-01-2010, 01:01 PM
balance balance is offline
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"neat"

But seriously, when the CEL cuts on, there is a code stored, whether or not the light cuts off later. If the light doesn't cut back on though, it's probably nothing, like some glitch that happened when the car got hotter than normal, but I'd check it anyway just to be sure.
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2010, 03:53 PM
Miss_BimmerLV Miss_BimmerLV is offline
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Drove all around town today..No "Check Engines" or "Check Coolant Level" Lights. So thats a good thing. Will take your advice balance and check the code out. No how do I go about doing that????


Thank You!!!!

XOXO


P.S.

I just found a kool feature today. Everytime you throw your car in reverse..the passenger side mirror tilts down so you can see where your goin. and tilts back up once you put it in drive. I thought I had a lazy mirror or failing ignition switch... ( I thought to myself, "neat" ) Always learnin sumthing new everyday with this car
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(E38) 740Ai L | Name: Allyssa | MD: 5/98 | Clr: Arktissiber Metallic, Int: Grau/Schwarz | Rims: 18" OEM E66 Style 94's (10 Spoke)(Chromed),
Tyres: Falken 235/45-18 | Miles: 165K | Age: ( A True Lady NEVER Reveals Her Age ) | Eng: M62 4.4L (V8), 32 Valves, 282 HP @ 5700 RPM |
Fl Cap: 22.5 GAL, 17c/24h MPG | MSRP $65,500 | 142 MPH @ 4k RPM


Last edited by Miss_BimmerLV; 12-01-2010 at 03:55 PM.
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2010, 04:36 PM
balance balance is offline
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Yes, when you put the car into reverse, it will lower the passenger side rearview mirror. I'm guessing it is so that you can see the lanes inside parking lots when you are going reverse. If you ever want to cut that feature off, you can switch the mirror control switch (right above the window controls) to the right side.

As far as getting the codes scanned, you can try an autopart store and see if they still do scans, or you can flirt with some mechanic at a shop and he'll probably scan it for free .

If you are planning on holding on to this car for a while though, it would probably be a good idea to buy a cheap OBD2 scanner for whenever there is a fault code stored. This scanner will also scan the codes on any car that was made after 1996, so you can use it on another car you or your friends may own as well.
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2010, 04:56 PM
Miss_BimmerLV Miss_BimmerLV is offline
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LOL @ " Flirt with some mechanic " That has happined more times than you know. I never woulda thunk owning an E38 could be so cheap! hahahaha

Anyhoo, Nice to know about the feature. Will try sometimes. And will also go to an auto parts store to see if I can get the code scanned.

And yes!!!! I plan on keeping Allyssa for a VERY long time. I Just bought a new radiator, Air filter ( Mann, cuz I heard K& whatever gunks up your intake senor?? ) Micro cabin filters for both hood & cabin, A new positive terminal battery cover, and even the water outlet valve for the right side cabin filter door!!!! $3.12 , How nifty is that. ( even though I dont know why its missing or if its important enough to replace. ) Always keepin bavarian Auto & Ebay motors busy...hehehe Will find a code reader as well, hopefully one that can reset that flippin seat belt light as well, if not, I will just have to purchase that separately from the scanner.

Thank You for the info ( again..hehehe )

XOXO
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(E38) 740Ai L | Name: Allyssa | MD: 5/98 | Clr: Arktissiber Metallic, Int: Grau/Schwarz | Rims: 18" OEM E66 Style 94's (10 Spoke)(Chromed),
Tyres: Falken 235/45-18 | Miles: 165K | Age: ( A True Lady NEVER Reveals Her Age ) | Eng: M62 4.4L (V8), 32 Valves, 282 HP @ 5700 RPM |
Fl Cap: 22.5 GAL, 17c/24h MPG | MSRP $65,500 | 142 MPH @ 4k RPM

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  #15  
Old 12-01-2010, 06:23 PM
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wilk187 wilk187 is offline
2001 740il Sport, RIP
Location: Nashville
 
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I was laughing at your "lazy mirror" comment. Am I the only one that reads the owners manual? Haha. Just an FYI, the cover for your OBD (code reader) is the trim piece to the left of your cupholder up front. Autozone will read the code for free...It (cover) even says OBD if the previous owner didn't remove the sticker. And make sure you save autohausaz.com as a favorite also. They are hella cheap and free shipping over $50 I think
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