03 745Li Warning Engine Over Heating

@ Mopauly... Lol, more like once every three weeks! It's too cold out here on the east coast so I can only work on my car when it's not that freezing. @ Baijern... I didn't remove the ground wires to the valve cover at all. At first, when I started the engine, I forgot to connect the little vacuum hose that goes to the air intake hose. When I realized it, I plugged it in and the car started to idle smoothly and I thought it was the problem. But when I shut down the engine and restarted it, it idled roughly like it was gonna shut off. This is definitely a bummer for me. I'm pretty sure I plugged in all the plugs on the wire harness to the right location because I marked everything. I also heard some popping noise in the intake manifold when I first started the engine and thought maybe something fell inside. I know it's something minor or I hope it is. Any help is greatly appreciated.

John

Originally Posted by johntkha

@ Mopauly... Lol, more like once every three weeks! It's too cold out here on the east coast so I can only work on my car when it's not that freezing. @ Baijern... I didn't remove the ground wires to the valve cover at all. At first, when I started the engine, I forgot to connect the little vacuum hose that goes to the air intake hose. When I realized it, I plugged it in and the car started to idle smoothly and I thought it was the problem. But when I shut down the engine and restarted it, it idled roughly like it was gonna shut off. This is definitely a bummer for me. I'm pretty sure I plugged in all the plugs on the wire harness to the right location because I marked everything. I also heard some popping noise in the intake manifold when I first started the engine and thought maybe something fell inside. I know it's something minor or I hope it is. Any help is greatly appreciated.

John

Ok I just think that may be the answear because it's every single cylinder with error codes. The little vacuum hose is not the proplem.

Thes error codes are misfires with fuel cutted

p0363 misfire detected fueling disable
p1162 fuel trim additive per ignition bank1 low
p1343 misfire cylinder 1 with fuel cut off
p1345 ------"---------- 2 ---------"---------
p1349 ------"---------- 3 ---------"----------
and so one.

Is the pressure sensor connected properly rear on the intake mainfold?
Did you get any other error codes?
can you smell fuel?
hope you find problem.

-Ville

Let me check to make sure I plugged in the rear sensor all the way in. I'll let you know. No other codes showed up on the scanner.

John

Just confirmed that the two plugs behind the intake manifold are plugged in. The intake manifold is making some popping noises though. Not sure if that has anything to do with the rough idling and check engine light being on.

John

Originally Posted by johntkha

Just confirmed that the two plugs behind the intake manifold are plugged in. The intake manifold is making some popping noises though. Not sure if that has anything to do with the rough idling and check engine light being on.

John

Ok,

Did you change intake mainfold seals to new ones? do you take the "DISA" off? The part next to pressure sensor. The DISA have quite big seal It's about 50mm (2") large and if that seal is interrupted it could do major air leak that can do popping noise allso. And vacum pump is one to check too.

I paste picture of the new DISA




How long it runs smooth when you first start engine? Did rpm get below 750. Because if I remember right, the controlling engine with vacuum pump is set to 500-550rpm.

I definitely didn't remove the DISA. I replaced the intake manifold gaskets with new ones. Starting the engine sounds normal and last about one or two seconds. Then the rough idling kicked in. I didn't remove the "Partition wall" like how Wilson did. No wonder I had a hard time removing the intake manifold the first time. I removed it this time to confirm the two plugs in the back of the intake manifold was plugged in. I verified all other plugs and sensors are plugged in also. Could it be that I put the ignition coils in wrong? Because when I slided the ignition coil in, it didn't just go in easily. I had to somewhat force it in.

John

Alright guys, I'm an idiot. So because I heard some popping noises in the intake manifold, I decided to take everything apart again to see what I did wrong. Removing the partition wall made it so easy to remove the intake manifold too. It took me about two hours to remove and re-install everything back together. I found that there was a plastic clip that broke the first time I installed the intake manifold and there was a little piece stuck between the intake manifold and block. I was so happy when I saw this and knew it was the problem the whole time. I've included some pics of the plastic clip that broke. I will not be scared of this weep hole leak anymore. My car is now running like normal again. I'd like to thank everyone for helping me on this project. Keep the DIY coming!

John

I have 2 03 745s and would like to do one of these cooling tubes before it goes bad and i over heat the engine. how tight do you expand the new tube from aga is there marks that line up?

Originally Posted by johntkha

Alright guys, I'm an idiot. So because I heard some popping noises in the intake manifold, I decided to take everything apart again to see what I did wrong. Removing the partition wall made it so easy to remove the intake manifold too. It took me about two hours to remove and re-install everything back together. I found that there was a plastic clip that broke the first time I installed the intake manifold and there was a little piece stuck between the intake manifold and block. I was so happy when I saw this and knew it was the problem the whole time. I've included some pics of the plastic clip that broke. I will not be scared of this weep hole leak anymore. My car is now running like normal again. I'd like to thank everyone for helping me on this project. Keep the DIY coming!

John

Yes!

I'm glad to hear that there is nothing broken! DIY rules!

The AGA pipe is tightened by hand only. There is no mark on the pipe to tighten to. I used all of the seals that came with kit that I thought I wasn't gonna need but was definitely needed.

John

Did you purchase the kit directly from AGA??
And what was the total for all the parts??

Thanks in advance.

Baijern motor w i have a question and sorrry i know this is a diffrent topic but i am trying to remove this part i know the bottom hole is for the colant pipe that goes from the front to the rear. but what does the top hole do? when i reasearched it online it says its collant return but were does it flow to? does it go down into the coolant pipe? thank again sorry to interupt your threat

Originally Posted by irokdastar383

Baijern motor w i have a question and sorrry i know this is a diffrent topic but i am trying to remove this part i know the bottom hole is for the colant pipe that goes from the front to the rear. but what does the top hole do? when i reasearched it online it says its collant return but were does it flow to? does it go down into the coolant pipe? thank again sorry to interupt your threat

Sorry don't know. Just what I look from the realoem, it look like it's returning to thermostat? Is it for warming up intake mainfold before thermostat is opening? don't know.

I bought the complete kit straight from AGA for $814. I thought I wasn't gonna use all the parts that was listed on their website but I used all of it. I just didn't know the terms they used but after receiving the parts, I knew exactly what the parts were.

John