BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

What size 3M Wind-weld for Door Leak Repair?

11K views 39 replies 16 participants last post by  bluebee 
#1 ·
Hello All,

SIZE: Lots of good information for the DIY Door Leak repair....except for the size of the 3M Windo-weld. Some threads mention 3/8" and others mention 1/4". 3M also makes a 5/16". Is there a size specified by BMW.

TEMP: Is there a recommended minimum temperature at which this product should not be applied below. I could not find this info at 3M's web site.

After reading many threads, I removed the barriers and cleaned the residue from both the door panels and the barrier. For the door, I took photos so I could copy the route of the original seal. I then removed the sealant, cleaned the residue with "Goof-Off" solvent, then removed any residual solvent with Windex. The barrier took a lot more labor. Using one of the thread recommendations, I used the balled-up sealant to dab off the remaining sealant from the barrier.

I'm going to wait until I can get to a friends heated garage to reapply the new Windo-Weld....once I determine the correct size.

Thanks for any information on the sizing.


JBono
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Lots of good information for the DIY Door Leak repair....
I don't know the answer, because I've never done it, but, these threads "might" have the answer ...

- REAR DOOR VAPOR BARRIER FAILS CAUSING WATER PUDDLES: improper adhesive used on rear door vapor barrier seals that allow rain water to fill the rear footwell (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)
 
#3 ·
bluebee,

Thank you for the links. I have seen most, but not all of them. As for a size consensus, there seems to be several sizes currently in use as follows:

3/16"
Size of a pencil
Size of your pinky finger

When did the pinky finger become a unit of measure...:rofl: LOL

JBono
 
#4 ·
I have a roll from the dealer...it should be approximately the diameter of a pencil. Temp should not matter....if it is cool out, then use a hair dryer or heat gun after application and get it warm, then press firmly with your thumbs and fingers to ensure a good seal.
 
#6 ·
I found the thicker the better. After the 3'rd attempt to seal the darn door vapor barrier, I installed 2 side by side 3/8" rows around the bottom of the door and around that dreaded outside corner that always comes loose. Used a wallpaper seam roller to spread it out and get good continuous pressure applied and no more problems.

First attempt: Reheat and attach.... failed in 3 weeks
2'nd attempt: Remove old Butyl, clean up door and vapor barrier with wax remover..... Failed in about 8 weeks
3'rd attempt: Removed new Butyl, clean up door, installed new vapor barriers.... It failed... don't remember how long
4'th attempt: Removed new Butyl 3/8" double-row.... Been leak free for over one year
 
#7 ·
Wallpaper seam roller is an awesome idea! I am going to the hardware store down the street and pick one up for future use.
 
#9 ·
Say people, I see I'm not the only one that's had to re-do a vapor barrier more than twice!

Was wondering.... is it really necessary to re-seal the barrier where it's come loose on the upper half of the door frame? My feeling is that the rainwater is only getting in where it finds a path on the lower half (probably more like lower edge only....).
 
#13 ·
I have seen it leak half way up the side of the foam barrier, so I would make sure the entire thing is sealed up good. Hair dryer and seam roller! ;)
 
#18 ·
what are the symptoms of this failure? I've been to the car wash dozens of times, would I find moisture on the carpeting? Would I know it if there was a problem? Thanks in advance
 
#20 ·
After a hard rain, carefully open the rear doors keeping one hand totally dry. Place your hand under the rear door just below the interior trim panel. This metal portion of the door between the door gasket and the interior trim panel needs to be 100% dry. No dampness. If damp, the damn seal is still leaking. After getting mine sealed after every rain storm I make this check. Been doing it for 1 year. Still moisture free. :)
 
#19 ·
Hey Golfer,

The first time I noticed something, it was a musty smell. Upon investigating, I found it very wet under the rear floor mats. It seemed it was the whole floor and I couldn't tell where it came from. It had rained the night before and I assumed I left the window slightly open.

A friend said his E39 got wet in the rear floor, but his was due to clogged A/C vents in the rear center console.

The way to tell is as follows:

If the wetness was can be traced from the floor up to the rear center console, it is most likely due to clogged A/C.

If the wetness can be traced from the floor to the rear door sill, it is most likely the vapor barrier.

After a gigantic rain storm accompanied by a small tornado, I opened my rear door and I could see the path of the water from the door sill, down to the floor.

Hope this helps.

JBono
 
#24 ·
Damn Water

A friend said his E39 got wet in the rear floor, but his was due to clogged A/C vents in the rear center console.

The way to tell is as follows:

If the wetness was can be traced from the floor up to the rear center console, it is most likely due to clogged A/C.

JBono
I performed the butyl seal DIY a few weeks ago and went out this morning after the rain we had last night...low and behold....more water behind the rear passenger foot well (drivers side)..thankfully it was close to 50 degrees here in CT today so it made it manageable to remove the door panel, rear seat, misc. trim in order to pull the carpet back slightly.....soaken wet (puddles)......i reinspected the vapor barrier...looked and felt tight....no signs of wetness at the perimeter at all...........inspected the interior side of the door panel...I couldnt see or feel any further (new) signs of moisture....Im thinking there is another issue.....probably the sunroof drain or the A/C issue....but its been in the 20's....so haven't had the A/C on in a long time to create any type of condensation.....help.:mad:
 
#22 ·
After putting it off for years, I finally attempted the repair yesterday on my two rear doors. After removing the door panels, I could clearly see that the sealant had failed at the bottom of the barriers.

I used the GE Silicon II sealant to re-attach the barrier and it seemed to work very well. It created a very secure seal around the barrier except some of the top part where the wires go (and that section can't really be sealed). The seal seemed so secure I can't imagine it not working, but seeing the number of people who have had to do this multiple times, it can't be that easy. I'll give it a couple of days and test it and see what happens.
 
#27 ·
If you have leaky moonroof drains I'd be curious to know which corners are leaking down to the rear passenger floorwells. I had leaky rear door vapor barriers but the water from those leaks never got into the cabin, only soaked the door sills.

Went through the leaky moonroof saga a few weeks ago during a spell of frequent, heavy rains. (Never noticed leaks in moderate rains.) At first I thought somehow the new windshield molding was leaking (easy to suspect things like that). Turned out bad draintube connections at the moonroof drains on the front two corners were leaking rainwater slowly down the A pillars. The molding (glazing) around the new windshield isn't a water seal; my windshield wasn't leaking at all....

Do you park your car on an incline?
 
#30 ·
Windo-Weld

Yesterday in sunny 32 degree weather, I removed and re-adhered 100% of my vapor barrier on the drivers side passenger door using the 3/8" 3M windo-weld and my wife's hair dryer. Prior to doing this I performed some water tests of the door using a large pitcher (hose is put away for the winter). I noticed that a small trickle of water was coming from the middle of the left side of the vapor barrier which of course led me to a full removal and reinstallation (I had only re-adhered an 8-10" section a few weeks ago that was obviously detached). Much to my surprise I also noticed that the most water was coming from the second hole down on the right side of the door (when facing in elevation) that one of the interior door cover plugs clicks/inserts into. I decided to put a small amount of plumbers putty around the perimeter of the plug/clip on the back of the door panel to ensure that no water can escape through there. I thought that this might be the best non-permanent option to provide an addl. seal as I feel this whole door panel is not as snug anymore because I have removed it 3 or 4 times. I finally completely put the interior back together (I of course broke both door sill covers and lower B piller cover during the removal and reinstallation process) and we will see what happens in the next rain storm. Im probably going to put a plastic bag through the sill of the door as others have described just in case. Drying out that floor area was a major PIA in this cold weather and I actually never got it 100% dry down there but its as good as its going to get.
 
#31 ·
Cn90 kindly provided size information over here today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > 2003 530i leaking door seals

Very easy fix using simple tools (Phillips screw driver, flat screw driver and a new roll of "butyl tape", which can be bought from local windshield glass shop for about $1/ft, you need about 10-15 ft roll).

- For models with door airbag, DISCONNECT battery before doing this job!
- Look at bluebee's links.

- I fixed my Rear Window regulator recently, here is the info:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6210803
 
#33 ·
Butyl tape may not be all you need

My DIY from January didn't last the year.....a big rain storm previous to Irene created another Koi Pond in my rear seat footwell....I removed the door panel again and low and behold the vapor barrier had separated on both sides of the door about 6-8 inches verically from the bottom....I removed the old and reinstalled new butyl tape for the whole lower third of the door and also used waterproofing tape (Surtape from Lowes) to further keep the vapor barrier sealed to the door....Hurricane Irene and last weeks heavy rain have not caused any further water infiltration.....it will be a little more of a PIA to remove the vapor barrier if my window regulator goes but it is better than using caulk!!:thumbup:
 
#34 ·
#35 ·
For the record, this was updated today:
Well, that was my situation. Shortly after buying my 528i in summer 2010 I went through the routine of re-sealing the VBs on the two rear doors -- both had separated from the door frame, presumably because the old butyl adhesive had lost its tack.

I used the 3M Windo-weld butyl cord that is recommended on these forums. This worked great on the left door and has held up but on the right door, it continued to lose the seal along the rear lower edge, straight down from the airbag. I probably went through the drill four times, using fresh 3M cord each time, but the repair probably never lasted more than a few weeks at a time. Fortunately even when leaking, the water didn't ever get past the door sills so yeah, I haven't felt pressured for a fast fix but this did get annoying.

Before buying a new VB and more Windo-weld or possibly a permanent urethane sealant, I decided to try one other product. DAP 18188 Butyl-Flex Gutter & Flashing Sealant.

http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=19

Hardware stores carry it, as does Amazon, for a few bucks.

It is softer right out of the tube and of course needs a day to cure, but retains its tack and best of all, sticks well to surfaces already saturated with old butyl adhesive .... meaning no need to go crazy cleaning off the old stuff. Of course, if you've not used stuff like this out of tube, you might want to practice on something and get a feel for the way it flows before trying it out on your car.

So far my annoying right door has been watertight for a couple months now, despite some unusually heavy rains. Thought I'd throw this out here in case anyone else might want to give it a shot before opting for something more drastic.
 

Attachments

#36 ·
This is the stuff I used for the door seals. Autozone has it for $12-$13 and its enough for about 1.5-2 door panels.
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top