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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 12-28-2010, 06:51 PM
stairwayto7 stairwayto7 is offline
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Hesitation when I give it Throttle

Hot or cold my e30 hesitation when I shoot the gas to it. It acts as if it has a vacuum leak. It was doing the same thing before I pulled the engine and ghanged all the seals and gaskets. I mean ALL of them (main front and rear, oil pan) I even put in new injector Orings. All new hoses. But still doing same thing. I put a fule pressure gauge on the fule line and got about 43 psi.
Could it be the fuel regulater switch? I've check all I can think of!!!
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  #2  
Old 12-29-2010, 08:22 AM
Pennyw1se Pennyw1se is offline
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If you have a Bentley manual you should run all of the fuel tests. And to make sure you have no more vacuum leaks you might want to run a smoke test.
It sounds like a fuel issue to me.
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  #3  
Old 12-29-2010, 09:22 AM
teaworks teaworks is offline
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Angry Hesitation Issue 88 Vert

Hi,
I have an 88 vert and it is doing the same thing. I have replaced the following: cap, rotor, spark plugs, plug wires,injector o-rings, oil breather hose, air box, fuel relay, main relay, temp switch, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. And it still is hesitates when you jump on it! I also have a back up ecu which I switched in for a very short time which I may do again for a lot longer time to see if it makes a difference - I'll let you know.

I am replacing the cps because it also is randomly losing power - seperate issue. When you do get it fixed , please post your results so that we all may benefit.
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  #4  
Old 01-12-2011, 08:23 AM
1987e30AZ 1987e30AZ is offline
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i think have had the same issue with my 87 325e...it is fine if i am hard on the gas (to the floor) but anywhere else in the throttle it hesitates, like a big flat spot. reminds me of riding 2 stroke dirt bikes when i was a kid, if you didn't have it in the power band the bike had no acceleration...down shift and go full throttle and it takes off.
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  #5  
Old 01-12-2011, 08:46 AM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987e30AZ View Post
i think have had the same issue with my 87 325e...it is fine if i am hard on the gas (to the floor) but anywhere else in the throttle it hesitates, like a big flat spot. reminds me of riding 2 stroke dirt bikes when i was a kid, if you didn't have it in the power band the bike had no acceleration...down shift and go full throttle and it takes off.
four strokes are not two skrokes. it takes longer to get to the pleasure point.

op, it does sound like something with the fuel system. try adjusting the tps alil and cleaning the afm
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  #6  
Old 01-12-2011, 09:02 AM
1987e30AZ 1987e30AZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downhiller View Post
four strokes are not two skrokes. it takes longer to get to the pleasure point.

op, it does sound like something with the fuel system. try adjusting the tps alil and cleaning the afm
yes it does take longer for a 4 stroke to get to the pleasure point...but it lasts longer too.
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  #7  
Old 01-12-2011, 11:49 AM
anstead610 anstead610 is offline
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2 stroke = minute man?
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This e30 is now being parted out. NO body panels are for sale, bumpers/fenders/hood/mirrors/valance or front turn signals. Everything else is up for grabs. Euro grills/cluster are sold, suspension/brakes/LSD/rear tails are already spoken for.
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  #8  
Old 01-13-2011, 06:28 PM
stairwayto7 stairwayto7 is offline
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Smoke test?

Not to sound Dumb as a bag of Hammers, but will someone please explain smoke test to me?
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  #9  
Old 01-13-2011, 07:05 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stairwayto7 View Post
Not to sound Dumb as a bag of Hammers, but will someone please explain smoke test to me?
have something that makes smoke start the engine in an sheltered area (if theres wind, the smoke will disapate before the vacuum pulls it) and move the smoking whatever around the engine including vacuum lines and the intake manifold. if theres a vacuum leak, it will pull the smoke towards the area
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  #10  
Old 01-20-2011, 08:06 PM
XR4T1030 XR4T1030 is offline
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Help needed. I have a 1988 325i. When I drive the care for about 5 miles the engine breaks up very bad. I've changed the O2 Sensor, FPR,Coolant Temperature Sensor, all vacuum hoses,cap rotor,coil,wires,and wires and the car still drives badly. Could anyone help me out?
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  #11  
Old 01-21-2011, 05:01 AM
shopcarpro shopcarpro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR4T1030 View Post
Help needed. I have a 1988 325i. When I drive the care for about 5 miles the engine breaks up very bad. I've changed the O2 Sensor, FPR,Coolant Temperature Sensor, all vacuum hoses,cap rotor,coil,wires,and wires and the car still drives badly. Could anyone help me out?
If you have it connected to a diagnostic machine with an oscilloscope when this condition simulated in a workshop, an experienced tech will be able to identify the problem. Could be slack in timing chain which can cause the valve/ignition time to go haywire, could be injectors are gummed up and not injecting the proper amount of fuel, could be a vacuum leak due to heat expansion of metal joints etc. etc. Well trained tech can identify the problem from the oscilloscope patterns most times. good luck.
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  #12  
Old 01-21-2011, 05:44 AM
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dlmpsy dlmpsy is offline
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I wonder if the TPS is out of adjustment, leaking intake boot, dirty injectors, bad fuel filter, mass air flow sensor or a vacuum leak under the intake manifold (there's a strange looking rubber thing under there), or a plug issue (many people prefer the W8LCR--if I'm correct--Bosch copper plugs). Also, the grounding point from the alternator area that attaches to the subframe is prone to become loose or have oxidized connection points.

Last edited by dlmpsy; 01-21-2011 at 05:45 AM.
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  #13  
Old 01-21-2011, 03:20 PM
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noexceptions325 noexceptions325 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shopcarpro View Post
If you have it connected to a diagnostic machine with an oscilloscope when this condition simulated in a workshop, an experienced tech will be able to identify the problem. Could be slack in timing chain which can cause the valve/ignition time to go haywire,......... Well trained tech can identify the problem from the oscilloscope patterns most times. good luck.
lol i'd like your experienced tech to find a timing chain on my e30...
if he does ill give him handjob
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  #14  
Old 01-21-2011, 03:22 PM
anstead610 anstead610 is offline
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M10 and m42 were timing chains. M20s were not.

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This e30 is now being parted out. NO body panels are for sale, bumpers/fenders/hood/mirrors/valance or front turn signals. Everything else is up for grabs. Euro grills/cluster are sold, suspension/brakes/LSD/rear tails are already spoken for.
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  #15  
Old 01-22-2011, 06:54 AM
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eieio4tn eieio4tn is offline
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that was just too easy...thought i'd let ya'll jump first. maybe that osco-silly-scope has magic powers ?
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  #16  
Old 01-24-2011, 10:43 AM
Sir Roxalot Sir Roxalot is offline
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This problem is usually cured by having the fuel injectors sonically cleaned.

Also make sure the throttle body is free from carbon build up as this causes all sorts of flats spots.

If these fixes dont work then de coking the cylinder head and valves may help. (this was a major fault which BMW recognised in the late eighties)
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  #17  
Old 02-27-2012, 07:13 AM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Hello Everyone,

I was wondering if anyone ever resolved this issue?
I'm having the same issue with my 1988 325is and I've replace just about everything for various reasons other than this hesitation issue.

after the first maybe 10 minutes the car will hesitate so bad that only full throttle will eliminate the problem and allow the car to move forward.
at about 12-15 minutes of driving the car is completely smooth again and drives normal for hours.

The car was in pretty bad shape when I picked it up so I had to replace:

Intake boot
all vacuum hoses
MAF Sensor
CPS
TPS
Idle control valve.
O2 Sensor
Plugs and wires cap and rotor.
Coil
Both brown and blue temp sensors.
Valve cover gasket and Throttle body gasket.
New fuel injectors and regulator
New fuel pump and filter.
Timing belt, tensioner and water pump.
fuel pump relay.

I also cleaned up the C191 connector which had some oxidation which cleaned up fine.

The car idles smooth even when the hesitation issue is occurring and I come to a complete stop.
Also the car doesn't have any error code no check engine light of any kind.

The oil pan does have a slight leak but I wouldn't think that would cause intermittent problems.

I think that's about all of the engine work.
I've done suspension and interior work as well but that shouldn't be important.

The only other thing I can think of is a bad DME but I don't see why the problem would go away.

Thanks for any ideas this one is driving me nuts.
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  #18  
Old 02-27-2012, 10:06 AM
teaworks teaworks is offline
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Oliver,
I was the second to post on this thread and had replaced the AFM box with a brand new one and it made no difference. I also use sea foam in the throttle body on a regular basis so it probably isn't how clean that is either. I am leaning toward cleaning the injectors, despite the fact I have replaced 2 of them with brand new ones. Good luck
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  #19  
Old 02-27-2012, 10:58 AM
89 E30 89 E30 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaworks View Post
Oliver,
I was the second to post on this thread and had replaced the AFM box with a brand new one and it made no difference. I also use sea foam in the throttle body on a regular basis so it probably isn't how clean that is either. I am leaning toward cleaning the injectors, despite the fact I have replaced 2 of them with brand new ones. Good luck
Sea foam in throttle body? You usually put it in the gas tank, oil or through a vacuum line
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2012, 11:12 AM
teaworks teaworks is offline
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You are correct about the vacuum line into the intake manifold. I have also shot some down the throttle body as well with mixed results. Putting the stuff in the gas really doesn't work, injectors need to be sonically cleaned.
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  #21  
Old 02-27-2012, 04:43 PM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaworks View Post
Oliver,
I was the second to post on this thread and had replaced the AFM box with a brand new one and it made no difference. I also use sea foam in the throttle body on a regular basis so it probably isn't how clean that is either. I am leaning toward cleaning the injectors, despite the fact I have replaced 2 of them with brand new ones. Good luck
Wow over a year later and still no resolution for you I'm sorry to hear that.
I've replace all the injectors and that hasn't done anything but make acceleration and the idle smoother when it's running normal. The massive hesitation still happens randomly.

I'm leaning toward electrical components because if anything was just dirty or worn I would think that this problem would be constant.
The car runs great except for that random bad hesitation.

I'm going to replace the DME relay for fun why not it's one of the few things that I haven't replaced.

The hesitation I'm getting may be different than yours though I can't even slowly accelerate gently when it's hesitating the only way I can maintain the speed that I'm going say 45-50mph would be to stomp on the gas pedal.
Then the car responds just like it should when you stomp on the gas but as soon as you let off and try to gently accelerate it will hesitate so you have to keep flooring it and letting off until the hesitation passes in a minute or two.

Itís hard to describe in text.

I don't think that I have much left to replace so I should be close
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  #22  
Old 03-02-2012, 06:50 PM
stairwayto7 stairwayto7 is offline
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I started this thread Dec. 2010. I never was able to fix the problem so I sold it to a guy and he's could never never fix.
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  #23  
Old 03-02-2012, 06:58 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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nice. pass on the troubles.
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  #24  
Old 03-02-2012, 07:15 PM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stairwayto7 View Post
I started this thread Dec. 2010. I never was able to fix the problem so I sold it to a guy and he's could never never fix.
I haven't given up yet.
I just put the dme relay in and I special ordered the injector harness.
That damn c191 connector was the root of my initial problems.
So maybe it's not 100% fixed.
I would cut it but that would drive me nuts having the car rigged like that.
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  #25  
Old 03-03-2012, 03:56 PM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Well with the dme relay replaced I drove around all day running errands.
It didn't happen once. Probably a coincidence nothing is that easy.
I'm going to drive it around all day tomorrow and see what happens.
It's strange not even a sputter today.
The date on the old relay is 2008 which seems pretty new for that to have been the problem.

Last edited by OliverM3; 03-03-2012 at 03:57 PM.
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