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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #51  
Old 03-21-2012, 08:43 PM
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BmwMan92 BmwMan92 is offline
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my 88 325e is doing the same thing..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8bimmer View Post
I just dont see any other logical way around this problem.
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  #52  
Old 03-22-2012, 11:29 AM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BmwMan92 View Post
my 88 325e is doing the same thing..
no, your car is just being a demonic bastard. if it was my car, id just start hitting it until it worked correctly
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  #53  
Old 03-22-2012, 05:52 PM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downhiller View Post
humidity happens all the time.

the biggest problem is the time it happens. try this, start the car, let it idle for 10 minutes then take it for a spin.
You may be right but if it works where do I look for a humidity problem?

any electrical component could be affected.

Though on that same note why would it run for 5 miles till it reaches operating temperature with no problems if a circuit or connector is wet?
Then clear 5 minutes after.

I did order a new DME just for fun figured I'd chip it anyway and keep a spare.
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  #54  
Old 03-22-2012, 07:15 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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if you think about it, if the air around the engine is cooler during the first 5 minutes of drive, youll still have say moisture in the connections. then when the air within the engine compartment starts to warm up, it evaporates off that moisture. its really the only thing i can think of for being that consistent.

take your car to a witch doctor. get some funky voodoo goin on. maybe thatll kill that damn gremlin
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  #55  
Old 03-24-2012, 08:18 AM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downhiller View Post
if you think about it, if the air around the engine is cooler during the first 5 minutes of drive, youll still have say moisture in the connections. then when the air within the engine compartment starts to warm up, it evaporates off that moisture. its really the only thing i can think of for being that consistent.

take your car to a witch doctor. get some funky voodoo goin on. maybe thatll kill that damn gremlin

I was intrigued by your idea of moisture. So this morning I broke out the garden hose started the car and hosed down the whole engine and engine compartment until the car reached operating temperature. Wires, Distributor cap injectors, fuse box, relay box, firewall, everything.
By the way the idle didn't change at all during this exercise.
Took it for a spin and there was no hesitation.

I don't know what this proves but I guess the wiring in the engine compartment seems to be ok.

The one odd electrical problem is the temp gauge when I floor it it drops back to the middle. Another thing tied to flooring the car on the same harness so it's possible that it's related. I already had the gauges out to replace the odometer gears so I did tighten the brass nut for the temp gauge.
Here's a video:temp.wmv

Last edited by OliverM3; 03-24-2012 at 08:19 AM.
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  #56  
Old 03-24-2012, 05:28 PM
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thats nice. almost like a vacuum gauge. now comes the question, is that due to the power draw or a bad connection in the dash
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  #57  
Old 03-29-2012, 04:20 AM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downhiller View Post
thats nice. almost like a vacuum gauge. now comes the question, is that due to the power draw or a bad connection in the dash
How about a short of some kind sending extra power to that dumb one wire sensor? Because the car is definitely not running hot but the gauge is resting on the last mark before red till you floor it.
so when you floor it it's exactly center where it should be normally.
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  #58  
Old 03-29-2012, 04:23 AM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Also first day to work with a new DME cross your fingers no hesitation at all but I think the car is just messing with me
Not really a new DME $50 used one on ebay but seems to start and run fine.
I have the old one in the glove box just in case this one decides to leave me stranded.
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  #59  
Old 03-29-2012, 05:11 PM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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nope that's not it either I had hesitation on the way home.

I should just bag the e30 and get another M

http://www.eimports4less.com/detail-...d-8286084.html
50k but a lot less headaches
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  #60  
Old 03-29-2012, 05:52 PM
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BmwMan92 BmwMan92 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downhiller View Post
no, your car is just being a demonic bastard. if it was my car, id just start hitting it until it worked correctly
for sure.
Oliver have you tried a new tps?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8bimmer View Post
I just dont see any other logical way around this problem.
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  #61  
Old 03-29-2012, 06:36 PM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BmwMan92 View Post
for sure.
Oliver have you tried a new tps?
Yup tps, cps, maf, idle control valve, o2, dme, temp (blue & brown)
Injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, all hoses, injector harness.
All relays
I'm sure I'm forgetting something but I think that there's nothing left to replace.
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  #62  
Old 03-29-2012, 07:25 PM
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BmwMan92 BmwMan92 is offline
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i think so to.. mine just wont respond to throttle at all... no cel urgh.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8bimmer View Post
I just dont see any other logical way around this problem.
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  #63  
Old 04-01-2012, 07:08 AM
Woxof1 Woxof1 is offline
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Possible stumble cure

I have been having similar issues and have tried many things. I adjusted the throttle plate per bentley and it fixed the problem. Check that the plate is just slightly open at idle, mine was closed and when tps sensed off idle, the throttle plate had to catch up resulting in stumble .
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  #64  
Old 04-08-2012, 07:18 AM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woxof1 View Post
I have been having similar issues and have tried many things. I adjusted the throttle plate per bentley and it fixed the problem. Check that the plate is just slightly open at idle, mine was closed and when tps sensed off idle, the throttle plate had to catch up resulting in stumble .
I could recheck that but I did adjust the throttle plate when I replaced the tps sensor.
my plate was so tight originally that it would stick a little because of the metal on metal contact.
Was your hesitation all of the time?
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  #65  
Old 04-08-2012, 10:02 AM
Woxof1 Woxof1 is offline
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It stumbled only when engine not up to normal temp, once warmed up, no issues.
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  #66  
Old 04-12-2012, 04:46 PM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Replacing parts for a second time is my only option.
Everything leads me back to a bad fuel pump.
Even though I put in a brand new VDO fuel pump in the car it has to be defective.
These symptoms are the same as a failing fuel pump.
So I just ordered a genuine BMW fuel pump I really hope this fixes it because I'm out of ideas.
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  #67  
Old 04-29-2012, 07:51 PM
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BmwMan92 BmwMan92 is offline
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Any updates? I might be able to end your LONG journey very simply i'm sorry to say but at least your car with all the new parts will last for a very long time.
how is it going over there?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8bimmer View Post
I just dont see any other logical way around this problem.

Last edited by BmwMan92; 04-29-2012 at 07:53 PM.
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  #68  
Old 04-29-2012, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OliverM3 View Post
Replacing parts for a second time is my only option.
Everything leads me back to a bad fuel pump.
Even though I put in a brand new VDO fuel pump in the car it has to be defective.
These symptoms are the same as a failing fuel pump.
So I just ordered a genuine BMW fuel pump I really hope this fixes it because I'm out of ideas.
How bad is it?
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  #69  
Old 04-29-2012, 10:06 PM
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BmwMan92 BmwMan92 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tkaczuk View Post
How bad is it?
Read the thread.
Oliver
You don't need another fuel pump or any of these parts so if they are being repeat bought I'd return them
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8bimmer View Post
I just dont see any other logical way around this problem.
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  #70  
Old 04-30-2012, 04:28 AM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BmwMan92 View Post
Any updates? I might be able to end your LONG journey very simply i'm sorry to say but at least your car with all the new parts will last for a very long time.
how is it going over there?
The jury is still out on this one. I had a couple second sputter right after I replaced the fuel pump again but it hasn't happened since. I'm hoping that there was just some air in the line and that monster fuel filter that these things have.
It's down right now because of a battery issue I'm fighting with the store to get a replacement under warranty because it will no longer take a full charge.
That's what I keep thinking at least everything has been replaced so I wont have any problems for a long time once I fix this elusive one.

Did you have another idea?
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  #71  
Old 04-30-2012, 04:33 AM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BmwMan92 View Post
Read the thread.
Oliver
You don't need another fuel pump or any of these parts so if they are being repeat bought I'd return them
It's usually just easier to ebay the part.
if the problem continues I'll know that there's nothing wrong with the VDO pump and I'll just ebay it.
I've done that will all of the other parts that I've replaced so far since they were not the problem.
It actually works out better sometimes between the restocking fee and shipping.
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  #72  
Old 04-30-2012, 07:14 AM
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BmwMan92 BmwMan92 is offline
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I have the same hesitation that he had which is worse than your but could be the same fix as you have tried everything else
its the pulley that the crank sensor reads.
If you get it done and still have it, its worth a try to fix the problem once and for all.
How long did you go without hesitation before your battery went bad?
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1600613&page=2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8bimmer View Post
I just dont see any other logical way around this problem.
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  #73  
Old 04-30-2012, 07:17 AM
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Newman271 Newman271 is offline
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Just a thought after reading the posts. Have you done a compression test? I was having the same problems wit a ef honda hatch I had. Turned out on of my valves were bent in the head. It only acted up when it reached a certain tempature. I did a compression test with a cold engine then a warm one.. 150psi almost across the board... to 150- 150- 70-150 maybe not that bad but pretty bad nonethe less. after a head job it ran fine till I blew piston 3 2 weeks later lol.
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  #74  
Old 04-30-2012, 08:31 AM
OliverM3 OliverM3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BmwMan92 View Post
I have the same hesitation that he had which is worse than your but could be the same fix as you have tried everything else
its the pulley that the crank sensor reads.
If you get it done and still have it, its worth a try to fix the problem once and for all.
How long did you go without hesitation before your battery went bad?
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1600613&page=2
I didn't really notice when doing my timing belt if the pulley was damaged but I don't think it was.
I'll take a look. I should have noticed though when it was off and sitting on the workbench.
And I drove around for two days and about 40 miles after the fuel pump but I haven't taken it to work which is the real test. For whatever reason it always acts up when I go to work must not like my job.
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  #75  
Old 04-30-2012, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OliverM3 View Post
For whatever reason it always acts up when I go to work must not like my job.
best excuse ever. sorry boss but, for some odd reason, my car just doesnt like bringing me to work.
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