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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 12-28-2010, 09:31 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Location: Buffalo, NY
 
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Mein Auto: White 1995 325i
New euro new issues

Hey guys, I just got my car on the night of the 27th. Picked it up for $2100 in WNY with 204,000 miles, almost no rust.



I bought the car because I am having issues with my Audi B5 A4 3071R build and can't work on it due to winter.





Car was a good deal and seems to drive ok. I found out how to get the OBDI codes so I need to do that. But immediate things are the power steering is creaking when the front end has a load on it, like while braking and turning a corner. Just cruising it seems pretty good. So this leads me to believe its the pump but need to go out and get some ATF for it to see if it is just low fluid.

The driver side door window doesn't work, so I am thinking maybe just a new motor it what it needs, I cant imagine having a fuse for a single motor. Also the lock cylinder in the door is frozen up. I can insert the key but it won't turn. I tried spraying WD-40 in and need to pull the door panel off to look closer.

The screen below the radio at 1 point said low coolant, and constantly says "break light circuit". I don't know what any of the buttons around there do yet, haha. The airbag light has been turning on, but maybe it is just the cold, dunno why that would turn on though, need to look for some threads. There is a light with a circle and somethings on either side of it...maybe a break pad light? Never seen this in any of my cars before (out of 6 cars).

Thats about all the issues right now that I can see.

I had to buy a key from the dealership for 100$ because the one the PO gave me was jerry rigged.

I want new 1 piece headlights, I have 2 piece headlights, centers are fogged and they have clear corners. It has ****ty HIDs hooked up and not pointed correctly for the low beams. Both fogs don't work, should be only a bulb. Reverse lights are not bright, want some super hella bright white LEDs for them.

I am trying to figure out what type of socket I need for the lug nuts (or wheel bolts?). They look like an inverse poly drive, or inverse torx socket, but don't have either big enough to test. Or is there a bmw "key" I need?

What I deal with ECA for general audi things, how are they for bmws?

I am thinking I will just get a used PS pump if that is the issue. They looked to be between 50-100$ used, if anyone has let me know. But I looked up some DIYs for it, seems simple, don't need to pull the entire front end apart like an Audi.

I am not a noob to forums guys i know the whole search before you post blah blah.

hopefully I can get it running real nice.

LIST OF FIXES AND PRICES:
$100 - New key
$9.00 - Mobil 1 ATF to fix squealing PS Pump
$15.00 - Cabin Air Filter
$15.00 - K&N Filter refresh kit
$5.50 - New tail light bulbs
$23.00 - 4 New OBC back light bulbs

Total cost: $167.50

Last edited by EuroDriven; 01-24-2011 at 01:43 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-28-2010, 10:06 PM
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noexceptions325 noexceptions325 is offline
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Mein Auto: 325e,Jeep,240z,528i
NO 1 Piece headlights!!! fail
other than that the breaklight circut thing is a big issue with these cars could be alot of different things mine was a new switch and fix the destroyed trunk wiring
you can try swapping your switches around for your window they are prone to fail

and you probably already removed the fake fender vents.. but just saying

otherwise nice sedan!
welcome to the fest
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Last edited by noexceptions325; 12-28-2010 at 10:09 PM. Reason: COORS!
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  #3  
Old 12-28-2010, 10:08 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Hey guys, I just got my car on the night of the 27th. Picked it up for $2100 in WNY with 204,000 miles, almost no rust.
That's a tad high for a car with 204k, rust, and a laundry list of issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
the power steering is creaking when the front end has a load on it, like while braking and turning a corner. Just cruising it seems pretty good. So this leads me to believe its the pump but need to go out and get some ATF for it to see if it is just low fluid.
Depends on what you mean by "creaking". In many cases, creaking while turning can by a symptom of worn tie rods or ball joints. If by "creaking" you actually mean grinding or whining, then yes, you probably have low fluid in your PS reservoir, or a pump on its way out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
The driver side door window doesn't work, so I am thinking maybe just a new motor it what it needs, I cant imagine having a fuse for a single motor.
Before you go about changing your window motor, check the window switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Also the lock cylinder in the door is frozen up. I can insert the key but it won't turn. I tried spraying WD-40 in and need to pull the door panel off to look closer.
Hard to say here. You could have a failed door lock cylinder on your hands.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
The screen below the radio at 1 point said low coolant
Firstly, check your coolant level. If it's at the correct level, you have a failed coolant level sensor (very common failure item - easy & cheap to replace).

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
constantly says "break light circuit".
Search "E36 brake light circuit DIY". Very easy repair at the brake pedal assembly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
The airbag light has been turning on
The SRS sensors in the seatbelt latches are the most common source of intermittent airbag warning light illumination.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
There is a light with a circle and somethings on either side of it...maybe a break pad light?
This is your brake pad warning light, which means that either your brakes need to be replaced, or you have a faulty pad wear sensor. These are cheap to replace. Inspect your brakes to determine what is causing the warning light to illuminate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
I want new 1 piece headlights


Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Reverse lights are not bright, want some super hella bright white LEDs for them.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
I am trying to figure out what type of socket I need for the lug nuts (or wheel bolts?). They look like an inverse poly drive, or inverse torx socket, but don't have either big enough to test. Or is there a bmw "key" I need?
Yes, you need the wheel lock key. Ideally, it should be located in the tool kit in the trunk.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
I am not a noob to forums guys i know the whole search before you post blah blah.
Many of these questions have been answered a zillion times, which you would have found had you searched first!

Good luck with it, and welcome!

PS: Please remove those faux Buick Venti-Ports!
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 12-28-2010 at 10:25 PM.
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  #4  
Old 12-28-2010, 10:19 PM
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noexceptions325 noexceptions325 is offline
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^ LOL we said the same things
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  #5  
Old 12-28-2010, 10:32 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
nothing.
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Where are you located i rochester.... i could possibly help you out with stuff...
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Last edited by Eight Thirty; 12-28-2010 at 10:34 PM.
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  #6  
Old 12-28-2010, 10:33 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
nothing.
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sorry double post...
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  #7  
Old 12-29-2010, 07:46 AM
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JoshuaG JoshuaG is offline
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IF you really want A set of OPH i have an almost new set of Eagle Eyes that look good for sale. Just be prepared to catch some S from the guys around here cause the general population of this forum is into the stock or modified stock look of the 2piece. But again if you want them 40$ + shipping and they are yours. PM me and I can text you some pics.

And get rid of the pimple vents man thats just nasty....lol
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  #8  
Old 12-29-2010, 09:49 AM
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jonesin jonesin is offline
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Josh take a bat to those things.

Don't try foisting them off on some poor unsuspecting bimmer that did you no wrong!
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  #9  
Old 12-29-2010, 09:50 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
That's a tad high for a car with 204k, rust, and a laundry list of issues.
Not sure how you are figuring out this is high, you don't even live in the same region as me. In WNY any car with no rust is expensive. This was the ONLY e36 325i I could find in the city. I don't consider this a "laundry list of issues". From what I said there is what 4 issues? (have you ever own an audi?) Also it isn't really a car "with rust", by almost no rust, I mean the body is in mint condition and there are maybe 3 rusted bolts on the entire car. I wish I had a lift to take pictures from underneath.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Before you go about changing your window motor, check the window switch.
Will do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Hard to say here. You could have a failed door lock cylinder on your hands.
Any way to fix it? I have been looking around but can only find things for failed door lock actuators.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
What is wrong with 1 piece headlights? Aren't they the same except they are just 1 piece?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Whats wrong with wanting to be able to see when I reverse down my friends pitch black 1000ft driveway?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Yes, you need the wheel lock key. Ideally, it should be located in the tool kit in the trunk.
Is this a BMW Specific key? As in it is OEM? I only have about half of the toolkit back there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Many of these questions have been answered a zillion times, which you would have found had you searched first!
If you look at my OP is only asked 2 questions....

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
PS: Please remove those faux Buick Venti-Ports!
But that was the selling point for the car...

...i kid i kid
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  #10  
Old 12-29-2010, 09:54 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
Where are you located i rochester.... i could possibly help you out with stuff...
I am in chili and currently go to RIT. My #1 priorities on the car are the driver side door lock cylinder and the power steering pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaG View Post
IF you really want A set of OPH i have an almost new set of Eagle Eyes that look good for sale. Just be prepared to catch some S from the guys around here cause the general population of this forum is into the stock or modified stock look of the 2piece. But again if you want them 40$ + shipping and they are yours. PM me and I can text you some pics.

And get rid of the pimple vents man thats just nasty....lol
Sorry dude, I can't imagine a set of $40 headlights that actually looks nice.

Last edited by EuroDriven; 12-29-2010 at 10:02 AM.
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  #11  
Old 12-29-2010, 09:57 AM
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JoshuaG JoshuaG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesin View Post


Josh take a bat to those things.

Don't try foisting them off on some poor unsuspecting bimmer that did you no wrong!
LMAO seriously. I snotted out my face at that.... Im holding on to them incase of an emergency... or if someone just doesnt mind them. They are some of the better ones I have seen. but I do like my 2p better.
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2010, 10:35 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Not sure how you are figuring out this is high, you don't even live in the same region as me. In WNY any car with no rust is expensive.
Well, not that market calculators are the end-all of determining the value of cars, but the Edmunds True Market Value of your car, in Rochester, NY is $640 for private party sale, $1,343 from a dealer. That's with 204k miles, in average condition. So yeah, $2100 seems quite high. It would be high no matter where you lived, except perhaps Australia.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
I don't consider this a "laundry list of issues". From what I said there is what 4 issues?
You listed eight problems in your original post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
have you ever own an audi?
Yes, sorta. I drove a new VW Passat 1.8T (Audi A4) from 2004-2007, and not a single thing went wrong after 33k miles. Not a typical VW/Audi experience, I know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Also it isn't really a car "with rust", by almost no rust, I mean the body is in mint condition and there are maybe 3 rusted bolts on the entire car.
Ah, I see.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Any way to fix it? I have been looking around but can only find things for failed door lock actuators.
Not that I know of. Perhaps others can chime in on this though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
What is wrong with 1 piece headlights? Aren't they the same except they are just 1 piece?
They're too "Fast 'N Furious" looking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Whats wrong with wanting to be able to see when I reverse down my friends pitch black 1000ft driveway?
LED tail lights are also too FnF.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Is this a BMW Specific key? As in it is OEM? I only have about half of the toolkit back there.
Yes, it's BMW OEM. You will probably need to visit a dealer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
If you look at my OP is only asked 2 questions....
In your original post, you listed eight problems. All of which I addressed.

Regardless, all of this stuff is pretty easy to fix, although you will spend some money taking care of everything.
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 12-29-2010 at 10:37 AM.
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  #13  
Old 12-29-2010, 10:55 AM
BlackWaterOp BlackWaterOp is offline
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That Edmunds pricing is WAY off, it says my car is worth next to nothing but dealers around here ask more than I payed for bone-stock automatics with stock wheels and tires.
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  #14  
Old 12-29-2010, 11:14 AM
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JoshuaG JoshuaG is offline
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That is because the dealers are out to get as much money from you as possible. They mark up so when you talk them down you still over pay and think you get a deal... Its in the bible check it out.

And the lord said the 11th commandment, "THO SHALT BE RIPPED OFF BY THE AUTO DEALER!!' and the earth shook with his command and moses trembeled in fear...
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  #15  
Old 12-29-2010, 01:41 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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May I submit article 1 for evidence....not sure where edmunds (or even kbb) get the info from. Something is only worth what you can sell it (or would buy it) for. To me the car is worth 2100, there are rust bucket civics around here that sell for more.
http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/bmw/3-s...mileage=204000

Excellent $2,875
Good $2,525
Fair $1,950

Also, I don't want LED tails...when you say LED tails I think of this:


Which...even I will admit is pretty god damn baller if you like to smoke crack and live in the hood. But....when I said "want some super hella bright white LEDs for them" I was talking about something more along the lines of this:



Anyways, I paid $2100 for the car so doesn't matter if it was a good price or not anymore.

I did my first "mod"....

NEW KEY!





That is half a stick of jb weld epoxy holding the key in the plastic housing.

Time to do more Audi parting out to get money for the bimmer.

-John

Last edited by EuroDriven; 12-29-2010 at 01:42 PM.
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  #16  
Old 12-29-2010, 01:50 PM
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RedBee RedBee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaG View Post
And get rid of the pimple vents man thats just nasty....lol

HAHAHAHAHA, this car was fixed up at walmart sorry OP but the vents are the first what caught my eye
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  #17  
Old 12-29-2010, 01:58 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Ah, I see what you're talking about with the reverse lights now.

Nice key, too. I need to get a spare for my car, but they're so damn expensive for my car.

As for the KBB vs Edmunds True Market Value, your KBB estimate is not region-specific. Also, Edmunds TMV uses data from actual vehicle sales in each region to set their values, rather than basing estimates off of dealer asking prices (which is what KBB does). Anyway, you're right. You're driving it now, so it doesn't matter what you paid for it. Let us know if you have any other questions. I'll jump the gun by saying that if you don't know if the entire cooling system has been replaced in the last 75-100k miles, it's a ticking time bomb and needs to be replaced.
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 12-29-2010 at 02:05 PM.
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  #18  
Old 12-29-2010, 04:19 PM
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Poorboysracing Poorboysracing is offline
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Looks like a pretty clean sedan, if you want nice glass headlights for a really decent. Price visit ddmtuning.com but be prepared as they take forever to ship occasionally, I love about 3 hrs from as an an fyi and if the car is clean than its not a bad price, I paid 4500 for a 95 318I that is utterly mint all around with 180k on her . Never seen salt . Anyways welcome to the fest and i'd love to see more pics of the car. And if your looking for some 16" rims lemme know as I have a couple sets now
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  #19  
Old 12-29-2010, 04:25 PM
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Poorboysracing Poorboysracing is offline
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Also with that many miles you probably want to look into replacing the cooling system, there a noted weak point in these cars. Also if you have the oppurtunity check the control arm bushings, motor mounts and transmission mounts since they are made of rubber and will degrade over time until they simply fail. All those parts are pretty cheap and the only one thats a royal pain is the control arm bushings if you do not have a press.
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  #20  
Old 12-29-2010, 04:29 PM
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Poorboysracing Poorboysracing is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
I'll jump the gun by saying that if you don't know if the entire cooling system has been replaced in the last 75-100k miles, it's a ticking time bomb and needs to be replaced.
not reading all the posts fail on my part
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  #21  
Old 12-29-2010, 04:58 PM
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TnT817 TnT817 is offline
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If you want the LED lights get these! Yes I know they're for the license plate lights, but they're cool
http://weisslicht.com/products.html

Theres someone on here I think its Marv that has them and really likes them.
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  #22  
Old 12-29-2010, 10:56 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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How often should the timing belt etc be replaced? And are these "interference motors"?

Quote:
I'll jump the gun by saying that if you don't know if the entire cooling system has been replaced in the last 75-100k miles, it's a ticking time bomb and needs to be replaced.
Is this because the water pump has the plastic impeller and the over heating issue? Or is this something different? There is the same water pump issue with Audis but I read something about the same thing on bmws.
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  #23  
Old 12-29-2010, 11:00 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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Its a timing chain on these cars... never heard of it going... dont worry about it......
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  #24  
Old 12-29-2010, 11:01 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
Its a timing chain on these cars... never heard of it going... dont worry about it......
Thats a HUGE relief to hear.
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  #25  
Old 12-29-2010, 11:04 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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Location: Rochester, Ny
 
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Buy the Headlights from ddmtuning.com

Take of the vents

Buy the corner lights from them also.


If you need help installing ill do it for you...
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