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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 12-29-2010, 11:09 PM
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TnT817 TnT817 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1993 325i 4dr
I have clear 4dr corners 20 bones shipped to you!
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  #27  
Old 12-30-2010, 09:51 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
Buy the Headlights from ddmtuning.com
Down the line when I have monies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
Take of the vents
Might happen today, I need to ship some parts out first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
Buy the corner lights from them also.
I didn't see the corners on their website.

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Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
If you need help installing ill do it for you...
Thanks, I should be able to handle it. Shouldn't be any harder then installing connecting rods...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TnT817 View Post
I have clear 4dr corners 20 bones shipped to you!
Pics? I thought I already had clear corners on this...

EDIT: Oops...guess you can't see too well from the picture. I will try to get more pics today.

Last edited by EuroDriven; 12-30-2010 at 09:53 AM.
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  #28  
Old 12-30-2010, 01:18 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Topped off the coolant with some distilled water and bought some Mobil 1 Full Synthetic ATF Fluid to top off the power steering fluid. I topped the fluid off and took the car for a spin around the block and there is no more noise from the steering, all quiet now. It was pretty low to begin with, but it looks pretty dirty so I may flush it and get a new reservoir in the spring/summer. Cost a total of ~$9.00 and still have 95% of a quart of fluid left over.

Next annoying simple thing is take of the fake fender vents.

But all in all, good mod

Last edited by EuroDriven; 12-30-2010 at 01:29 PM.
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  #29  
Old 12-30-2010, 01:34 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Pictures after a quick hand wash in 30ish degree weather:











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  #30  
Old 12-30-2010, 02:25 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Next annoying simple thing is take of the fake fender vents.
Hair dryer, monofilament fishing line and Goo-Gone to take off the glue residue.
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
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  #31  
Old 12-30-2010, 02:39 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Hair dryer, monofilament fishing line and Goo-Gone to take off the glue residue.
Yeah, I deff know how to do it. I may grab some dental floss though since I don't think I have any fishing line.

-John

Last edited by EuroDriven; 12-30-2010 at 02:44 PM.
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  #32  
Old 12-30-2010, 02:50 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Found this by the passenger headlight, anybody know what it would go to?

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  #33  
Old 12-30-2010, 07:18 PM
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crisscross crisscross is offline
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Do your fog lights work?
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  #34  
Old 12-30-2010, 07:36 PM
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FenderBender FenderBender is offline
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Siren or fogs.
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  #35  
Old 12-30-2010, 08:31 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
nothing.
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Thats to your Alarm system horn. unless your fogs dont work. then just plug it in.
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  #36  
Old 12-30-2010, 08:51 PM
Dannyboy223 Dannyboy223 is offline
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Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Found this by the passenger headlight, anybody know what it would go to?
i have that exact same plug on my 1995 and it just has a cover over it...
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  #37  
Old 01-01-2011, 02:59 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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I got the vents taken off yesterday, looks way better now

Next thing is to get torx screw drivers so I can pull the drivers door panel off. Also, I did some searching but cannot figure out how to get to the back of the window switches on an auto. On a MT it looks like the shift boot just gets pulled up, but an AT obviously doesn't have a shift boot. Any help here?

About $7.00 for a cheap set:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...set-94757.html

Last edited by EuroDriven; 01-01-2011 at 03:00 PM.
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  #38  
Old 01-01-2011, 07:28 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
D'oh, You kids!
Location: In the Grumpy Chair
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 318is / 1993 325is
According to my wife Harbor Freight = Manland.
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guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #39  
Old 01-09-2011, 10:17 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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So thought I would bring an update to you guys on this since it is right now just a maintenance thread...

On the LCD screen in the center console the back light is fading from the passenger to the drivers side, I can't see the clock enough anymore to use. I actually didn't even know the smaller screen was a clock until I shined a flashlight on it. Is it easy to replace the screen?

The "1 brake light failure" is showing up still so I popped the trunk open and checked out the tail lights. The brake light bulb on one side is the same size (physically) as the tail light bulbs, it is just a single filament bulb. (Which it should be, just stating a reference for the physical size, it will make more sense in the next sentence). The other brake light bulb is a difference size, it's smaller. Since it is smaller I would assume it is a lower amperage rating. I am not sure how the system works to check if the bulbs are working but I would assume it checks some sort of current flow or resistance in the circuit, a lower amperage bulb would be a higher resistance filament to prevent current flow, so if it checks for high resistance then it might mistake the lower current bulb as a blown filament and therefore blown bulb.

I got a "check coolant level" so I well....checked the coolant level. (this was last week actually) and it was low so I put more distilled water in and tonight it was lower again. I did some peaking around and on the driver's side of the radiator there is a trail of something leaking down on the radiator on the side facing into the engine bay so I am guessing there is some kind of leak. Worst case is it needs a new radiator, not bad to have 1 oem radiator last for 204k miles. But is there some kind of stop leak I can run through the coolant system?

"Tail light failure" not sure what this means because it will only happen occasionally but I turn the key off and back on and it will disappear.

"Low beam failure"...well the previous owner put HIDs into the stock housings and burnt up the wiring harness and put tape on the harness or whatever and put normal bulbs back in. The bulbs are the blue ricer bulbs -_- so I want to get normal bulbs so I can actually see at night.

...Still need brake pads.

The passenger side headlight moves around way more then the driver side, like it is missing an adjustment screw. But the lights are also aimed very low so I wanted to try to adjust them higher some how but am not sure exactly how to do it.

The long cone K&N Air Filter is VERY dirty, black almost. So I ordered the K&N refresh kit for $15 and I bought a cabin air filter for $15 so that I can defrost the windows way faster and have better heat. These should be here by the weekend.

-John

PS - also wtf is wrong with this site, the quick reply box doesn't work when I press the button to post from there or go advanced from there.

Last edited by EuroDriven; 01-09-2011 at 10:18 PM.
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  #40  
Old 01-10-2011, 09:23 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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I got rid of the "1 brake light failure" I just had to sand down the contacts on one of the bulb holders and buy new bulbs.

Don't get a tail light failure anymore but have some sandpaper in my toolkit in the car in case it comes on again.

Both reverse lights work now.

Added more distilled water to the coolant so the warning would go away. What type of coolant should go into one of these?

Up next is to figure out what needs to be replaced to get the drivers window to work.

-John
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  #41  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:02 PM
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crisscross crisscross is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
I got rid of the "1 brake light failure" I just had to sand down the contacts on one of the bulb holders and buy new bulbs.

Don't get a tail light failure anymore but have some sandpaper in my toolkit in the car in case it comes on again.

Both reverse lights work now.

Added more distilled water to the coolant so the warning would go away. What type of coolant should go into one of these?

Up next is to figure out what needs to be replaced to get the drivers window to work.

-John
I would replace the radiator soon, a leaking neck will prob fail soon. Blue coolant is BMW, green is prestone.

You should be able to replace the backlight in the OBC, just google it to see.

There are two adjustment screws for the headlights, they use allen wrenches and adjust side to side and up and down.

Also, the check coolant level could be a faulty level sensor, they fail often.

Your thread is acting very wierd, I also can't post quick replies, all other threads are fine for me though.
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-I do the things today that others won't do, so I will have the things tomorrow that other won't have....
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  #42  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:22 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Originally Posted by crisscross View Post
I would replace the radiator soon, a leaking neck will prob fail soon. Blue coolant is BMW, green is prestone.
Awesome, wasn't sure since Audi's are only supposed to use G12. Is there some sort of stop leak I can try running through to hold it over until it is warm outside?

Quote:
Originally Posted by crisscross View Post
You should be able to replace the backlight in the OBC, just google it to see.
Good news!

EDIT: Just looked it up and holy hell that is simple! Awesome! Too bad my bank account only has $20 in it right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crisscross View Post
Also, the check coolant level could be a faulty level sensor, they fail often.
I doubt it is a faulty sensor considering I filled it back up with coolant and the warning went away.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crisscross View Post
Your thread is acting very wierd, I also can't post quick replies, all other threads are fine for me though.
"New Euro [Thread] New Issues" Muwahahahah

Last edited by EuroDriven; 01-10-2011 at 10:31 PM.
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  #43  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:30 PM
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crisscross crisscross is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Awesome, wasn't sure since Audi's are only supposed to use G12. Is there some sort of stop leak I can try running through to hold it over until it is warm outside?
I wouldn't.....I would just make up some 50/50 mixture of coolant and water and keep filling it up. Things like stop leaks tend to cause more issues. E36's are very picky with the cooling systems.
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1995 BG M3 2000 TiAg 4.4l X5

-I do the things today that others won't do, so I will have the things tomorrow that other won't have....
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  #44  
Old 01-10-2011, 10:38 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Added a list of fixes and prices in my OP.

Quote:
LIST OF FIXES AND PRICES:
$100 - New key
$9.00 - Mobil 1 ATF to fix squealing PS Pump
$15.00 - Cabin Air Filter
$15.00 - K&N Filter refresh kit
$5.50 - New tail light bulbs
This car is turning out to have some good cheap fixes. It is seriously making me consider flipping it to pick up another and have money for mods

Last edited by EuroDriven; 01-11-2011 at 09:30 AM.
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  #45  
Old 01-11-2011, 07:03 AM
WindyDays WindyDays is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Added a list of fixes and prices in my OP.



This car is turning out to have some good cheap fixes. It is seriously making me consider flipping it to pick up another and have money for mods
*cat dies*
*water pump impeller explodes*
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  #46  
Old 01-11-2011, 07:53 AM
EROC_328 EROC_328 is offline
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Hey John, I go to RIT as well, at least for another couple months.

Looks very clean for a WNY car.
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  #47  
Old 01-11-2011, 08:44 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
LIST OF FIXES AND PRICES:
$100 - New key
$9.00 - Power steering fluid to fix squealing PS Pump
$15.00 - Cabin Air Filter
$15.00 - K&N Filter refresh kit
$5.50 - New tail light bulbs
Are you aware that our power steering pumps require ATF, not power steering fluid?
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  #48  
Old 01-11-2011, 09:29 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Are you aware that our power steering pumps require ATF, not power steering fluid?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
...bought some Mobil 1 Full Synthetic ATF Fluid to top off the power steering fluid. I topped the fluid off and took the car for a spin around the block and there is no more noise from the steering, all quiet now. It was pretty low to begin with, but it looks pretty dirty so I may flush it and get a new reservoir in the spring/summer. Cost a total of ~$9.00 and still have 95% of a quart of fluid left over. :



Quote:
Originally Posted by EROC_328 View Post
Hey John, I go to RIT as well, at least for another couple months.

Looks very clean for a WNY car.
I graduate in may as well. (I assume you mean you are graduating) I cannot wait to have a house with a garage in it to start doing some legit Audi part outs. Last part out car I did I made a **** load on, and I have a car sitting and waiting to be parted out. part out = money for mods.

Last edited by EuroDriven; 01-11-2011 at 09:32 AM.
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  #49  
Old 01-11-2011, 10:12 AM
EROC_328 EROC_328 is offline
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I am actually finishing up my masters thesis so I will be done in mid-April.
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  #50  
Old 01-22-2011, 06:11 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Is a Mahle KL66 fuel filter a good choice as a replacement? I am trying to up my MPG currently with maintenance items.

Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/BMW-E36-325i-is-...ht_2469wt_1139

Price $26.95

Also, since I am seriously considering the DDM (non halo because of price) headlights with HID kit (55w 6000k). Will I need to run new wires to be able to handle that current, and if not will they use the OEM plugs for the head lights that are already in the car? I ask because the previous owner burnt up the headlight harness so 1 headlight doesn't work so I want to know if I should fix the harness, or deal with it until I get the new lights and run new wires.

Last edited by EuroDriven; 01-22-2011 at 06:15 PM.
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