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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 02-08-2011, 12:21 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Mein Auto: White 1995 325i
I want to pick up a bunch of maintenance parts for cheap so I am looking around pelican parts right now...I just want to confirm everything I am getting is correct. Also wondering what I should replace (smaller parts) since I have zero knowledge of maintenance done before I got the car.

Oil filter kit - Mahle - $7.25 (looks like it comes with O-rings and crush washers for the housing? hence kit?)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...20(1992-95)%20

I want to do AutoX and spirited driving without worrying about brakes but am not sure if the OEM Compound is ok to use, i figure OEM rotors are ok to use. I am looking at just autozone for brakes:

Front pads - Duralast - $30.99
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...=54439_0_1610_

Rear Pads - Duralast - $33.99
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...=54428_0_1610_

Front Sensor - PEX - $10.25
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...9%2C%20Each%20

Rear Sensor - PEX - $9.50
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...9%2C%20Each%20

Front Rotors - Duralast - $31.99
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...4_172993_2708_

Rear Rotors - Duralast - $25.99
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...7_172993_2708_

The brake job would cost ~$201

The oil changes would cost ~$45 each

Not sure if it is worth it to do the fuel filter, that would be about $26.

I should also clean the MAF while I am in there, any other ideas on what to do?

Last edited by EuroDriven; 02-08-2011 at 12:25 PM.
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  #77  
Old 02-08-2011, 12:28 PM
EROC_328 EROC_328 is offline
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Just FYI, you don't have to replace the wear sensors if they haven't triggered the dash light. If the light is on then you need new sensors.

Upgrading the pads is probably a good idea for doing autoX.
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  #78  
Old 02-08-2011, 12:29 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EROC_328 View Post
Just FYI, you don't have to replace the wear sensors if they haven't triggered the dash light. If the light is on then you need new sensors.

Upgrading the pads is probably a good idea for doing autoX.
Any recommendation on what pads to use? Also, the indicator on the dash IS on but I think it is only for the rear. I will just order both and see if I can save one of them that is on the car, and keep the new one as a backup.
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  #79  
Old 02-08-2011, 12:44 PM
EROC_328 EROC_328 is offline
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I went with the pagid red pads from bavauto when I replaced my brakes. I know guys on here like the Aquebono (yea, I butchered that spelling) pads for their really low dust.
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  #80  
Old 02-08-2011, 05:58 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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I've heard great things about the Akebono Euro ceramic pads that FCP Groton sells. No personal experience with them though.
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  #81  
Old 02-08-2011, 10:15 PM
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jonesin jonesin is offline
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I've got them on my car... Once I get it back and have them broken in (they have maybe 7 miles on them) I'll let you know how they are.
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  #82  
Old 02-13-2011, 08:58 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Anybody know if these would fit my 325i? I PMed him seeing if they are still available.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1583689

Last edited by EuroDriven; 02-13-2011 at 09:09 PM.
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  #83  
Old 02-13-2011, 09:07 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
nothing.
Location: Rochester, Ny
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
Anybody know if these would fit my 325i? I PMed him seeing if they are still available.
missing link?
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  #84  
Old 02-13-2011, 09:30 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
missing link?
I added it 2 mins after you responded, I didn't notice it wasn't there >_<
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  #85  
Old 02-14-2011, 05:33 AM
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crisscross crisscross is offline
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The m3 brakes are bigger than the 325i, so they won't fit.
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  #86  
Old 02-15-2011, 07:24 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Got some 3/4" Hex drive lug nuts of ebay so I can finally get my wheels off....

Cost = $22.93

Will cost $20 for a garage with the key to swap the new lugs on.

Total Cost = $42.93
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  #87  
Old 02-16-2011, 07:03 AM
EROC_328 EROC_328 is offline
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Did you get lug nuts or bolts? Most E36s require bolts not nuts unless someone has done a stud conversion.

I have a set of bolts if you need them because my car has studs on it. I believe they are 5mm longer than the stock bolts. I got them with a set of wheels I bought. Let me know.
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  #88  
Old 02-16-2011, 10:06 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Definitely lug nuts, I can tell because the lugs nuts are from advanced auto parts. I don't know what is up with this car, its a bastard.
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  #89  
Old 02-20-2011, 06:56 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Figured out the driver side window is the switch in the center console, and got a another switch from a part out of bimmer forums, should have it in the mail soon. The switch was only $8 shipped.

...Oh and the lock cylinder on the driver side magically started working again. I don't know how, but it makes my car look way less ghetto around chicks now, so I am happy!
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  #90  
Old 02-20-2011, 07:32 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
I don't know how, but it makes my car look way less ghetto around chicks now, so I am happy!
That's all that matters in life.
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View my photos: Caught in the Wild
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  #91  
Old 02-27-2011, 05:01 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Bought 4 of the same wheels as mine with tires on them today from Eight Thirty (franklyn) for $80, 3 decent tires, but I only need 2.

Might be trading EROC 12x1.5 lugs for wheels bolts!

Also brakes are so worn now they that they smell after driving, 0 pads on the rear and riding steel on steel FTW!!!!

Remaining issues:
-intermittent license plate light failure (have LED lights and resistors, just need to put them in)
-intermittent passenger low beam failure
-low beam bulbs are painted blue so they have a sh!tty light output
-annoying exhaust rattle that can only be heard from outside the car
-rear driver side door doesn't open from the inside handle (might be the child lock?)

Last edited by EuroDriven; 02-27-2011 at 05:02 PM.
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  #92  
Old 03-05-2011, 08:52 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Ughh...So bimmerfest apparently doesn't let you edit threads forever...so I gotta do this here:

LIST OF FIXES AND PRICES:
$100 - New key
$9.00 - Mobil 1 ATF to fix squealing PS Pump
$15.00 - Cabin Air Filter
$15.00 - K&N Filter refresh kit
$5.50 - New tail light bulbs
$23.00 - 4 New OBC back light bulbs
$22.93 - 20 Wheel Bolts
$30.00 - Labor to swap wheel bolts
$80.00 - 4 of the same OEM Rims with tires, since I needed a couple tires with tread

Total cost: $300.43

Remaining issues:
-intermittent license plate light failure
-intermittent passenger low beam failure
-low beam bulbs are painted blue so they have a sh!tty light output
-annoying exhaust rattle that can only be heard from outside the car
-rear driver side door doesn't open from the inside handle (might be the child lock?)
-Replace from drivers door door brake
-replace all the brake pads/rotors
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  #93  
Old 03-05-2011, 08:57 PM
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crisscross crisscross is offline
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Did you already check the wires running from the body to the trunk? They short out and cause the license plate lights to fail.
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  #94  
Old 03-05-2011, 10:39 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crisscross View Post
Did you already check the wires running from the body to the trunk? They short out and cause the license plate lights to fail.
No, not yet. I have been more worried about getting tires so the car would stay on the road, priorities . I have LED lights to put in back there anyways, so if I put those in and don't work it will give me a reason to check the wiring.
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  #95  
Old 03-06-2011, 07:26 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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What is this metal pipe with 2 coolant hoses attached? Can I just connect the hoses together and delete this pipe?

I want to make the intake shorter so that the air filter isn't pushing into the headlight.

Last edited by EuroDriven; 03-06-2011 at 07:27 PM.
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  #96  
Old 03-06-2011, 08:44 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
nothing.
Location: Rochester, Ny
 
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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...70#post2668670
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  #97  
Old 03-09-2011, 11:39 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Well since I have to do the brakes on this, I figure I might as well replace as much as I can at once.

I want stainless brake lines for obvious reasons, I know of:

TMS Lines:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-38...-approved.aspx - $125 for coated

BimmerWorld Lines:
http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerw...its-p1529.aspx - $120

Is there anything out there for a cheap price, or anyone know of anybody selling them used? There used to be a set of bimmerforums for $80 shipped used, but I missed out and they sold them already.

-John

Last edited by EuroDriven; 03-09-2011 at 11:47 AM.
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  #98  
Old 03-09-2011, 11:42 AM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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stainless is only good for looks isnt it?
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  #99  
Old 03-09-2011, 11:50 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
stainless is only good for looks isnt it?
It stops rubber lines from flexing under pressure, at least that is the general consensus. I am assuming it is true, not sure is there is any independent research that has been done on this. I figure if I am doing all new pads and rotors then I might as well do new fluid since what is in there is probably FILTHY. I figure if I do all that, new lines aren't much to add on top of it. Besides it looks like the resale on them is good if I ever crash or get rid of the car.

Want to sell the brake set in your basement yet?

-John
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  #100  
Old 03-09-2011, 11:53 AM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
It stops rubber lines from flexing under pressure, at least that is the general consensus. I am assuming it is true, not sure is there is any independent research that has been done on this. I figure if I am doing all new pads and rotors then I might as well do new fluid since what is in there is probably FILTHY. I figure if I do all that, new lines aren't much to add on top of it. Besides it looks like the resale on them is good if I ever crash or get rid of the car.

Want to sell the brake set in your basement yet?

-John
how much for the WHOLE set......?


ill sell them to you for what the cost of a new set is.... because these are new... you just wont have to pay shipping...
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