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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 03-09-2011, 11:54 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
how much for the WHOLE set......?


ill sell them to you for what the cost of a new set is.... because these are new... you just wont have to pay shipping...
You tell me how much... I don't know where you bought it.
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  #102  
Old 03-09-2011, 11:57 AM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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Originally Posted by JohnGutmannnn View Post
You tell me how much... I don't know where you bought it.
you tell me a offer... idk what they are worth or how deep your pockets are
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  #103  
Old 03-09-2011, 11:58 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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What pieces do you have? Rotors, pads, and sensors? $200?
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  #104  
Old 03-09-2011, 12:02 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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rotors pads not sensors. all 4 corners brand new never mounted... still all in the plastic.... was thinking like 250ish... ????? and you would have to come to irondequiot to get it.... i work like constantly these days...


just text me... haha
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  #105  
Old 03-09-2011, 12:05 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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I can get most everything from autozone/car quest for about 200-220 mark. I am not worried about high quality sensors, or rotors (cast iron is cast iron), it would be duralast pads, but I never had an issue with them on my 07 impreza. I want to do AutoX but not religiously.

I am a cheap ass right now since I have no money. I am waiting for summer for serious upgrades when I start my full time engineering job.

-John
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  #106  
Old 03-11-2011, 05:55 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Picked up brand new rear ATE pads and sensor for $25 shipped.
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  #107  
Old 03-17-2011, 12:25 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Bought almost the rest of the brake parts from Autozone. I think these prices are correct.

Rear Rotors - $25.99
Front Rotors - $31.99
Front Pads - $33.99
Grease - $3.00
Brake Parts Cleaner Spray - $5.00
7 Quarts of Mobil 1 (Bought 5 more for a customers car) - $60.00

Total = $217.95

Then I bought a bunch of things from ECS and Ebay:

2 x Oil Filter Kits - $14.30
Fuel Filter - $18.69
Front Driver Door Brake - $23.05
SS Brake Lines - $99.95
Yellow Fog light bulbs - $9.75
Yellow Side Marker bulbs - $5.49

Total = $171.23

Overall list of parts so far:

LIST OF FIXES AND PRICES:
$100 - New key
$9.00 - Mobil 1 ATF to fix squealing PS Pump
$15.00 - Cabin Air Filter
$15.00 - K&N Filter refresh kit
$5.50 - New tail light bulbs
$23.00 - 4 New OBC back light bulbs
$22.93 - 20 Wheel Bolts
$30.00 - Labor to swap wheel bolts
$80.00 - 4 of the same OEM Rims with tires, since I needed a couple tires with tread
$25.00 - Rear ATE Pads and Sensor
$5.24 - White LED plate lights
$25.99 - Rear Rotors
$31.99 - Front Rotors
$33.99 - Front Pads
$3.00 - Grease
$5.00 - Brake Parts Cleaner Spray
$60.00 - 7 Quarts of Mobil 1 (Bought 5 more for a customers car)
$14.30 - 2 x Oil Filter Kits
$18.69 - Fuel Filter
$23.05 - Front Driver Door Brake
$99.95 - SS Brake Lines
$9.75 - Yellow Fog light bulbs
$5.49 - Yellow Side Marker bulbs

Total cost: $719.85

I think I found someone to buy my Audi parts car this upcoming weekend so it looks like I might be getting coilovers VERY soon too. This car is getting turned around FAST. I could probably get coil overs, ddm projects/HIDs and front ddm m3 bumper.

Does you guys think it is fine to run OEM brake fluid since I am only running OEM brakes and rotors? I want to do autoX but I figure for only doing it a few times I don't need expensive pads, but if I want them later they are easy enough to swap out for just the summer.

Last edited by EuroDriven; 03-17-2011 at 12:30 PM.
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  #108  
Old 03-17-2011, 12:53 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Coming along nicely.
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  #109  
Old 03-17-2011, 01:58 PM
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Some of those prices popped out at me. 30 bucks for labor to swap wheel bolts, and 23 for 4 OBC backlight bulbs
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  #110  
Old 03-18-2011, 02:10 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Originally Posted by cj.surr View Post
Some of those prices popped out at me. 30 bucks for labor to swap wheel bolts, and 23 for 4 OBC backlight bulbs
First time I had them swap the bolts I had ordered lugs, because the ends of the bolts didn't look like any bolts I have ever seen. Yes I am aware that all euros use bolts. So that essentially doubled the price of the swapping them.

I got the OBC bulbs from the dealer because I didn't know they were standard bulbs.
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  #111  
Old 03-18-2011, 02:15 PM
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I don't think the OBC bulbs can be bought in regular parts stores.
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  #112  
Old 03-18-2011, 02:17 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
I don't think the OBC bulbs can be bought in regular parts stores.
They looked like the 1.2w bulbs but with a special base, I am wondering if you can just pull it out of the base.
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  #113  
Old 03-18-2011, 02:21 PM
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Yes, I'm 99% percent sure that I was able to pull the bulb out.
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  #114  
Old 03-18-2011, 02:28 PM
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Hmmm... I didn't try to remove the bulbs from the base when I changed some of mine. It would be nice if you could, though.
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For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #115  
Old 03-20-2011, 04:10 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Good news! I sold my Audi parts car today...which means I have $1100 to spend on suspension

FK Adjustable - $900
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-325...vers/ES248284/

FK Streetline non-Adjustable - $550
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-325...vers/ES250986/

I have seen that FK coilovers are good and the consensus is that it is a good choice considering the price. I have read they are more built for performance versus Racelands or Rokkors. Anybody have input between the two choices? I just want to do AutoX and maybe some spirited driving, but want a nice comfortable suspension. I am always iffy on things which are not adjustable, since it give less flexibility in the setup. Even if I only adjust it to a nice ride once.

I am also looking to get from what I have seen mentioned around here:
-E-bay Adjustable Upper control arms
-[TMS?] Rebuildable RSM
-FSM w/ toe adjustment
-RTABs, the ones that don't need to be pressed in ($80 each) that I think someone mentioned somewhere in here, the name is slipping my mind right now.

With all that I think my suspension and braking needs will be set for now.

Then finally front M3 bumper and angel eye projectors with HIDs from ddm. (money permitting in the coming month or 2)

-John

Last edited by EuroDriven; 03-20-2011 at 04:36 PM.
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  #116  
Old 03-20-2011, 09:55 PM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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I think that you should buy me a front control arm
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  #117  
Old 03-20-2011, 10:02 PM
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If you're going to spend that kind of money on a suspension, I'd find a lightly used Bilstein PSS9 coilover setup versus buying FK coilovers.

Also, there's a pretty funny type-o in the product description of the FK coilovers on ECS's webpage. I'm assuming they meant to say "highly touted" instead of "highly taunted."
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
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View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 03-20-2011 at 10:05 PM.
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  #118  
Old 03-21-2011, 11:19 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
If you're going to spend that kind of money on a suspension, I'd find a lightly used Bilstein PSS9 coilover setup versus buying FK coilovers.

Also, there's a pretty funny type-o in the product description of the FK coilovers on ECS's webpage. I'm assuming they meant to say "highly touted" instead of "highly taunted."
After a quick look I found this for $400...

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1624202

it needs rear shocks, and I don't know how much it costs to send them out for a rebuild. I am always weary of buying used.

Also, I have no patience to wait for a deal to pop up >_<

What are your thought on the Rogue Engineering RSMs?

-John

Last edited by EuroDriven; 03-21-2011 at 11:22 AM.
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  #119  
Old 03-21-2011, 11:35 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Yikes, those coilovers look rusty and worn out. I wouldn't get near them no matter what the seller says.

I have the Rogue RSMs in my car. I think they're the best RSM available at any price level. The reinforcement plates that RE supplies are thicker than most (all?) others, and they weld the shock mounting bolts to the plates to create a bottom-mount design (genius). They're incredibly well-made, and are rebuildable for only a few dollars. I'm a huge fan.
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 03-21-2011 at 11:36 AM.
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  #120  
Old 03-21-2011, 11:43 AM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Yikes, those coilovers look rusty and worn out. I wouldn't get near them no matter what the seller says.

I have the Rogue RSMs in my car. I think they're the best RSM available at any price level. The reinforcement plates that RE supplies are thicker than most others, and they weld the shock mounting bolts to the plates to create a bottom-mount design (genius). They're incredibly well-made, and are rebuildable for only a few dollars. I'm a huge fan.
Thought so about the RE RSMs, the seem like the best and if I cant get a pair and rebuild them for <$60 that would be awesome. I am trying to slowly piece together suspension stuff piece by piece to have a cheap, yet trackable (even though I never will go to the track) setup.

Any recommendations on the front FSMs? I have read to get something with to adjustment for these because what the drop will do.

Also, what are your thoughts on the ebay adjustable UCA? I have seen people using them on here but haven't read anything bad, but I also haven't been looking around this kind of stuff for more then a few days. I know not to buy from ebay (obvious reasons) but, I see people selling UCA bushings, so I am not sure if the ebay portion is just the metal then you can put quality bushings into them to make them right nicely.

The RTABs I was talking about were the RE ones.

The big thing for me is the coilovers. I want a lot of adjust-ability so I can have a nice ride. I haven't seen anything bad about the FK setup, but obviously since they are cheaper, they can't be as good. I see a lot of bilstein sport shocks floating around and hear good things about those matched with good springs, but they don't have the adjust-ability I would like since I will likely be raising the car in the winter because of the amount of snow we get in WNY, not to mention I am moving to Buffalo, NY in the beginning of summer.
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  #121  
Old 03-21-2011, 11:52 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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When you say "front FSMs", are you referring to the upper strut mounts? If you plan on dropping your car more than about 2 inches, you'll want camber plates.

And I wouldn't buy any no-name suspension components off of ebay. I would never trust their welds, etc. That's just me. I only use top-shelf stuff on my car since I'm offsetting the cost by installing it myself.
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 03-21-2011 at 11:53 AM.
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  #122  
Old 03-21-2011, 12:20 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
When you say "front FSMs", are you referring to the upper strut mounts? If you plan on dropping your car more than about 2 inches, you'll want camber plates.

And I wouldn't buy any no-name suspension components off of ebay. I would never trust their welds, etc. That's just me. I only use top-shelf stuff on my car since I'm offsetting the cost by installing it myself.
By FSM I mean where to shock mounts to the body at the top, I thought the adjustment up there was for toe. But now I realize I wasn't thinking about it correctly.

So do I need toe adjustment?

-John
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  #123  
Old 03-21-2011, 12:29 PM
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Toe adjustment is made with the tie rods, not the upper strut mounts. For the upper strut mounts, you will need adjustable camber plates if you are going to lower the car 2" or more. This dials some of the negative camber back out so you don't wear the insides of your tires out prematurely. Has nothing to do with toe angle.

When selecting your upper strut mounts you need to also consider the FCABs you plan to use. Offset FCABs require "centered" upper strut mounts, where as centered FCABs require offset upper strut mounts. This is what affects caster.
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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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  #124  
Old 03-21-2011, 01:14 PM
EuroDriven EuroDriven is offline
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What is FCAB? Front camber adjustment brackets?

I got them confused because I thought on an Audi you get a UCAs for camber adjustment. I don't recall seeing any toe issues on B5s, but I think you can adjust toe by shifting the front sub-frames.

I am not all too knowledgeable in suspension setups since all the research I have done for my b5 has been for engine building and turbo setups since that is primary on that car, especially since it doesn't run.

Do I need anything to account for toe angle, or is it usually not an issue?
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  #125  
Old 03-21-2011, 01:24 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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FCAB = Front control arm bushing. They come in two flavors: centered and offset, which affects caster, and must be used in conjunction with the correct upper strut mounts (as mentioned earlier).

Camber is fixed on the E36, unless you buy adjustable camber plates (which are necessary when lowering at significant levels).

Toe angle is affected when lowering the car, too. This is adjusted via the tie rods.
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1966 Pontiac GTO
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For sale: OEM E36 328 catback
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