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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #26  
Old 01-05-2011, 02:48 PM
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Inline Sixer Inline Sixer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovemycar View Post
My friend's Q7, from a distance, has wheels that look like they were painted black. They weren't, they just get completely covered in dust, and quickly.

I recommend three things for cleaning wheels:

Sonax ($$ but half price in bulk)
good wheel brush (inexpensive)
Armor All Wheel Protectant (inexpensive)

I used soap/water at first for a while (so gross), then tried Rejex as a protectant (much more work to apply than AA and it doesn't work as well either it appears to me).
sadly, maybe the only solution here is to get wheels that are already colored the same as dust.


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  #27  
Old 01-05-2011, 02:51 PM
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vadim vadim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eights-n-Aces View Post
Some feel they've had success with the Armor All spray. I'm not sure how they gauge clean. My own experience was the Armor All was a waste of money. But, all in all it was an easy spray-on application and a low cost. I would be more upset if I spent a lot of effort in application and then got poor results. Give it a try, and run it for a week. Spray it off with water and see if it works. But, my guess is, if you run your finger across the wheel after you rinse off the brake dust, you'll see a noticeable streak.
Somehow Armor All worked great when it was applied for the first time. Both mine and my GF's cars' wheels were clean for a long time, and you could actually see some dirty spots where the spray had not been applied properly - that was how the entire rim would have looked without it. But the second time I used the same spray a month or so later, I did not get the same result despite more thorough application. Go figure!
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  #28  
Old 01-05-2011, 02:56 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clspruiell View Post
that looks great Nordic! so you clean the wheels and let them dry.. apply Rejex (whatever that is sorry im new), then apply AA to the wheel?
Rejex is an aerospace wax. It requires a minimal 12 hour curing time so after you apply it, you have to be prepared to let the car sit for a while before driving. I apply it every 6 or so months, let the car sit over night. Following that, I use the Armor All every time the car is washed which works out to every week unless weather or traveling interferes with the schedule.
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  #29  
Old 01-05-2011, 02:58 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vadim View Post
Somehow Armor All worked great when it was applied for the first time. Both mine and my GF's cars' wheels were clean for a long time, and you could actually see some dirty spots where the spray had not been applied properly - that was how the entire rim would have looked without it. But the second time I used the same spray a month or so later, I did not get the same result despite more thorough application. Go figure!
My experience with the AA is that the wheels have to be super dry to get the best results. Generally, I'll finish my car washing chores, pull the car back in the garage and let it sit for about 30 minutes before I do the AA.
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  #30  
Old 01-05-2011, 03:27 PM
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Bcube Bcube is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beden1 View Post
My 2011 335is does not have the same brake dust problems as you describe, while our '08 535xi does. My '09 ZO6 and the 2011 S4 also have the heavy brake dust issues.

I may be wrong, but I think BMW has changed the brake pad composition for the 2011's, fortunately. I hope they start offering refits with the new pads for our 535xi, but the parts department I checked with does not have any knowledge of any changes?
The Brake Pads were changed in Sept 2009. So MY 2010+ have the latest OEM (dust-free) pads.
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  #31  
Old 01-05-2011, 04:28 PM
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LarkHouston LarkHouston is offline
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[QUOTE=Nordic_Kat;5746221]If you insist.....

My regimen is 1) start with clean wheels, 2) go to the time and effort to apply Rejex 3) apply two coats of Armor All Wheel Protectant everytime car is washed.

This is after a two weeks of driving in rain and all sorts of junk:


QUOTE]

Do you park your car in your house? It looks like it's parked on an oriental rug!!

P.S.- Just think how good those 230's would look on that rug.
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  #32  
Old 01-05-2011, 05:56 PM
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Akebono pads I installed in the rear made a difference like night and day. I'll install the front pads at next spring.
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  #33  
Old 01-05-2011, 06:08 PM
onodon onodon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clspruiell View Post
Ok so this is normal and just a headache? If so thats fine. Are there any tricks?? I wish there was a wheel cleaning robot to roam around my garage at night. If I had kids i would include this on their list of chores


I wash my rims twice a week in between car washes. it is extra work, but I will not tolerate black rims on my car. BTW the break dust will eventually cause pitting on the rims if it is not cleaned off regularly.
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  #34  
Old 01-05-2011, 06:22 PM
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Nordic_Kat Nordic_Kat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarkHouston View Post
Do you park your car in your house? It looks like it's parked on an oriental rug!!

P.S.- Just think how good those 230's would look on that rug.
LOL. No, that's an old worn out throw rug.

p.s. I would need to upgrade the rug if I had the 230's. The rug is actually in pretty pitiful shape.
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  #35  
Old 01-06-2011, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clspruiell View Post
I guess i could try engine braking (esp since i have an MT). but not with passengers. i HATE when people do that. i also heard that the reverse pressure on the engine is bad for it.

is downshifting really recommended?
Downshifting can be fun and smooth. You can learn to do things like a rev-matched double-clutch downshift, which would all but eliminate additional wear on your synchros and clutch.

It isn't hard on the engine at all. In fact, in modern cars, when you're engine braking the fuel is completely shut off. It's about the least stress your engine can have at a given rpm.

My 335i is an auto, so it downshifts automatically. If a light is red for a long time, I'll coast up to it and get adequate braking by doing nothing and letting the car downshift itself at about 1100 rpm. Then, I'll generally use the brakes below 20 mph. In the mornings when I'm warming it up, I'll manually downshift to keep it around 1400-2200 rpm. This allows heat that would go into the brakes to warm up the engine instead. I do the same if I have less braking room.

In my manual cars, If I'm cruising at ~40 in 4th, I'll just coast in 4th until rpm gets to about 1k, then put it in neutral and brake. If I'm going faster, I'll coast down to 50-55, then double clutch and rev match down to 3rd, then brake in the low 1k rpm range. This allows most of my stopping to be via engine braking while only requireing 1 or 0 shifts, and minimizes wear on the synchros (especially the 2nd gear synchro, which seems to wear out the first since it's used the most).

Using these techniques save gas as well as wear and tear.

My wheels take forever to wax. I couldn't imagine doing it at every wash like NordicKat.
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  #36  
Old 02-03-2012, 06:44 AM
fordperf fordperf is offline
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For those of you using "engine braking" to slow down instead of your brakes, just realize you are putting increased stress and wear on engine and transmission parts costing thousands of dollars instead of a braking system composed of disposable pads and rotors designed for that purpose

I get the appeal, but IMO dragging the engine to slow down, while fun sometimes, is just wearing down more expensive parts instead of the disposable parts designed for it. $0.02
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  #37  
Old 02-03-2012, 06:54 AM
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TXSTYLE TXSTYLE is offline
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Might I suggest to you all... The first and Best "mod" for ANY Bimmer.... AKEBONO EURO CERAMIC pads.
I have had 3 sets on different vehicles, including my current Alpine Chariot 750.
Brake dust is non existent! I go weeks without even wiping my wheels these days. I am somewhat of a "detail guru" as well.
Bonus: they are very easy on your rotors. Tire Rack and specialty online auto stores carry them.
Thank me later....

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  #38  
Old 02-03-2012, 12:57 PM
Ilovemycar Ilovemycar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXSTYLE View Post
Might I suggest to you all... The first and Best "mod" for ANY Bimmer.... AKEBONO EURO CERAMIC pads.
I have had 3 sets on different vehicles, including my current Alpine Chariot 750.
Brake dust is non existent! I go weeks without even wiping my wheels these days. I am somewhat of a "detail guru" as well.
Bonus: they are very easy on your rotors. Tire Rack and specialty online auto stores carry them.
Thank me later....

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Ceramic pads are popular with some people, and they are said to provide good stopping power for the first panic stop or two. However, I think some people here would prefer the best performing brakes for the money, regardless of how much more difficult they are to clean. I'm one of these people. I don't even track my car, but there are members here who do.

And what's with the 1 year old thread bump anyway fordperf . . .
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  #39  
Old 02-03-2012, 01:32 PM
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I don't believe ANYONE in this particular thread is racing their cars.

I gathered folks were looking for a "solution" to the what I consider sh1ty factory pads that make your wheels look like ass after washing them, driving and stopping a few blocks. In that case... CERAMIC Pads are the solution.

Carry On...
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  #40  
Old 02-03-2012, 01:39 PM
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andrew b andrew b is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXSTYLE View Post
I don't believe ANYONE in this particular thread is racing their cars.
I think several folks in these parts track their cars, pretty regularly.

Quote:
I gathered folks were looking for a "solution" to the what I consider sh1ty factory pads that make your wheels look like ass after washing them, driving and stopping a few blocks. In that case... CERAMIC Pads are the solution.
Or, you could refer to the OEM pads as the ones engineered to give the best initial bite, stopping power, and fade resistance. I've driven with both, and the Akebono don't have the same feel as teh OEM BMW pads do.

To each their own.
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  #41  
Old 02-03-2012, 01:46 PM
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chris328 chris328 is offline
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i had the brake dust problem on my 2008. i have a 40 mi commute back/forth from work so usually would have to clean every 2 days. i just used palmolive and it was fine. on my 2011 there is considerably less dust, they obviously addressed the issue.
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  #42  
Old 02-03-2012, 01:46 PM
Ilovemycar Ilovemycar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXSTYLE View Post
I don't believe ANYONE in this particular thread is racing their cars.

I gathered folks were looking for a "solution" to the what I consider sh1ty factory pads that make your wheels look like ass after washing them, driving and stopping a few blocks. In that case... CERAMIC Pads are the solution.

Carry On...
I wasn't saying you were wrong that ceramic pads create less dust. I was qualifying that there IS a compromise to the ceramics, which you did not point out, but simply said that we were to thank you later.

The OEM brakes are probably the best value for performance, when also combining street use. On the track, our e9x's issue is supposedly brake fade. But the OEM brakes have better performance on the street with lower temps. A compromise between the two worlds.

Ceramic pads are simply worse at both of them. Will we tell tell the difference with stop and go traffic, of course not. We will tell the difference even with spirited driving, maybe, maybe not. A common saying is that the ceramics don't have that same OEM initial bite anymore, that we e9x drivers are used to. (I've never driven a 7er or a BMW SUV, but 1s/3s/5s/Zs.)

So sh!tty to you means how much more you have to clean, sh!tty to me means inferior braking performance.
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  #43  
Old 02-03-2012, 10:04 PM
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I've always heard after waxing your car but the used rags and wax the rims. It seems to help as much as I can tell. Also BMW sells some rim cleaner spray which seemed to work really well when I used it.
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  #44  
Old 02-04-2012, 08:50 AM
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TXSTYLE TXSTYLE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilovemycar View Post
I wasn't saying you were wrong that ceramic pads create less dust. I was qualifying that there IS a compromise to the ceramics, which you did not point out, but simply said that we were to thank you later.

The OEM brakes are probably the best value for performance, when also combining street use. On the track, our e9x's issue is supposedly brake fade. But the OEM brakes have better performance on the street with lower temps. A compromise between the two worlds.

Ceramic pads are simply worse at both of them. Will we tell tell the difference with stop and go traffic, of course not. We will tell the difference even with spirited driving, maybe, maybe not. A common saying is that the ceramics don't have that same OEM initial bite anymore, that we e9x drivers are used to. (I've never driven a 7er or a BMW SUV, but 1s/3s/5s/Zs.)

So sh!tty to you means how much more you have to clean, sh!tty to me means inferior braking performance.
Question for ya chief...

Have you actually tried ceramics?

Thought not.

I have on a sports car. And although they may not grab repeatedly after heating up on race course, they are still desent. Again, this thread did not refer to "tracking" purposes so your argument is mute. Everyday driving my experience is there is hardly any discernable difference.
For those of you wanting a great mod to rid yourself of all the excessive dusting... I give you the best solution.

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  #45  
Old 02-04-2012, 09:12 AM
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andrew b andrew b is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXSTYLE View Post
Question for ya chief...

Have you actually tried ceramics?

Thought not.



Again, this thread did not refer to "tracking" purposes so your argument is mute. Everyday driving my experience is there is hardly any discernable difference.
I've driven both on my 335i.

I can tell a significant difference on initial bite during everyday and spirited non-track use. In fact, the other day I was 1/3 into a blind corner and some idiot coming the other way was taking up at least half my lane. Hard immediate braking - the bite was instantaneous and allowed me to dive to what little shoulder I had.

And as far as fade, the ceramics aren't as consistent if you're driving them hard through long feisty roads, especially in the mountains.

Yes, they have less dust. But you CAN tell a difference, even in daily driving. I choose to put up with the dust to have the benefits the OEM pads provide. You choose to use the ceramics, that you find to be "decent". To each their own. But don't tell me the ceramics have the same performance as the OEM pads because they don't, even for daily driving.

Last edited by andrew b; 02-04-2012 at 09:54 AM.
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  #46  
Old 02-04-2012, 12:07 PM
Ilovemycar Ilovemycar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXSTYLE View Post
Question for ya chief...

Have you actually tried ceramics?

Thought not.

I have on a sports car. And although they may not grab repeatedly after heating up on race course, they are still desent. Again, this thread did not refer to "tracking" purposes so your argument is mute. Everyday driving my experience is there is hardly any discernable difference.
For those of you wanting a great mod to rid yourself of all the excessive dusting... I give you the best solution.

GALAXY Tab ~ Powered by ANDROID!
Good guess, I haven't tried them. I just have a hard time seeing that happening, but who knows, since there are people like you who really do like them, and find that they really are enough for almost any kind of driving that's not at the track. The problem for me is that there are just as many of the others who don't agree. So like I said, the likelihood of this happening for me is slim at this point.

I admit that your solution is probably indeed the best solution for many BMW drivers out there, and at this forum. However, even just in this very thread, if I had to guess going my memory of their posting histories, I would not be surprised if a few of them shared the same viewpoint as I did. I do wish you would explain the possible compromise as a caveat, and hence my reply. Yet, it seems that you don't really think this compromise exists, so perhaps you truly don't feel the need to even mention the topic. However, I wouldn't be surprised if someone replies in a similar fashion again in the future, should you recommend it in the same way.

Speaking of sporty driving on ceramics, and now that I think about it, I wonder if having less bite would make it easier for me to heel-toe. The grabbiness of my brakes when attempting the technique at non-track speeds makes my heel-toe an exercise in going slower, not faster.
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  #47  
Old 02-04-2012, 12:07 PM
capriblue230 capriblue230 is offline
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I installed Akebono brake pads on my '08 328i convert and my Mercedes '03 SL500 before it--no more dust! The brakes worked just as well as they did with the original pads.
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  #48  
Old 02-04-2012, 12:29 PM
anE934fun anE934fun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beden1 View Post
My 2011 335is does not have the same brake dust problems as you describe, while our '08 535xi does. My '09 ZO6 and the 2011 S4 also have the heavy brake dust issues.

I may be wrong, but I think BMW has changed the brake pad composition for the 2011's, fortunately. I hope they start offering refits with the new pads for our 535xi, but the parts department I checked with does not have any knowledge of any changes?
Yup. New composition brake pads were introduced with the start of manufacturing for the 2010 MY E9X cars. My 2008MY ex-E93 dusted like OP and others are complaining about; my 2010 d (9/15/2009 build date) doesn't dust.

If the dust is objectionable enough, the solution would seem to be to swap out the pads for a new set.
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  #49  
Old 02-04-2012, 03:12 PM
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fun2drive fun2drive is offline
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This is the reason I installed Cool Carbons on my 335. I have installed a lot of Akebono's and from driving them they take break in time 300 miles or so just like my Cool Carbons S&T pads do. No dust or insignificant compared to the older composition. 2010 is the reforumlation date which thank God BMW finally did this. I run ceramic pads on my Ford Superduty which are stock by the way with little dust.

Don't mind cleaning my car and wheels but I have better use for my time than messing with the wheels each week.
I agree that ceramic pads don't dust but they don't offer the intial bite BMW stock pads do. Once you get a little heat in them they have close to the same modulation as do the OEM pads.

That is the only solution I know of to correct the problem, BMW pads using 2010 forumation or ceramic pads from a quality manufacturer...
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  #50  
Old 02-06-2012, 07:27 AM
smbmw3 smbmw3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inline Sixer View Post
sadly, maybe the only solution here is to get wheels that are already colored the same as dust.


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