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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 01-19-2011, 04:59 AM
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I just read the section in Bentley for the driveshaft and did not read anything on preloading the driveshaft before tightening the blots down. Is this another area that the Bentley is wrong?
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  #27  
Old 01-19-2011, 10:29 AM
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I didn't even know you could just replace the Giubo. I replaced the whole driveshaft. You should replace the transmission mounts too.
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  #28  
Old 01-19-2011, 03:12 PM
Ebonix Ebonix is offline
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G'day all...

Thanks for the replies, the questions and the curiosity - i've been away on summer holidays so i couldn't reply.

It's been over a week ago now since this part has been replaced and i can assure you, there are no vibrations, rattles, rubbing etc etc etc....just pure smoothness.

There is no reason to pre-load the centre bearing, i guess this needs to be done when REPLACING the bearing, no reason to change drive shafts (unless yours has a twist in it) i basically installed the giubo, put everything back as it was and drove happily ever after :P

Although my giubo has been replaced into the exact same position as the old one (original) came off, CN90 may be correct into how it is actually supposed to be installed, (fatter end of the giubo onto the gearbox mount??) I guess time will tell if and when it fails, but as for now, it's driving like it rolled out of the showroom 11 years ago.

Cheers!
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  #29  
Old 01-19-2011, 03:46 PM
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Last edited by champaign777; 01-19-2011 at 03:54 PM.
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  #30  
Old 01-19-2011, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpcgamer View Post
I just read the section in Bentley for the driveshaft and did not read anything on preloading the driveshaft before tightening the blots down. Is this another area that the Bentley is wrong?
Nothing mentioned in Bentley

Usually it's much easy to install your DS when you push central mount to the front

I want somebody to upload pictures from stock 2001-2003 DS central mount

If no one i probably can do it on my 2003 530i which is stock

I am 99% sure based on my experience that the wrong installation of this mount is the reason of DS vibration

Last edited by champaign777; 01-19-2011 at 04:27 PM.
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  #31  
Old 03-14-2011, 03:08 PM
paodeejay paodeejay is offline
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Is this a common vibration issue at some certain speeds? Can you easily tell if the Guibo is bad just by looking under? Thanks guys, I'm trying to solve a vibration issue.
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  #32  
Old 03-14-2011, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paodeejay View Post
trying to solve a vibration issue.
You didn't give a whole lot of details.

In general, from the bestlinks, these are the most common causes of vibration:

- The main causes of vibration while highway driving (1) (2) (3) (4) (5); while highway braking (1) (2) (3); and while slow speed braking on bumps (1) & TireRack vehicle vibration diagnosis chart (1) (jpg) with match mounting hints (1)

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  #33  
Old 03-14-2011, 09:27 PM
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This is a nice Diy & discussion, gotta do mine.
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  #34  
Old 12-20-2011, 04:47 PM
ztitans1 ztitans1 is offline
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Funny Champaigne. I would love to see how you can get a car up on 4 ramps though. Sounds dangerous.:-)
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  #35  
Old 12-20-2011, 05:10 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ztitans1
Funny Champaigne. I would love to see how you can get a car up on 4 ramps though. Sounds dangerous.:-)
Here's one way.... (I cheat with a floor jack, though.)

Back the car onto the first set, engage parking brake (and if manual, in low gear or reverse).

Take your floor jack and lift the front up from the usual rubber jacking point under the engine. Slide the other two ramps into place, lower car onto them.

Last edited by pleiades; 12-20-2011 at 05:11 PM.
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  #36  
Old 12-20-2011, 05:52 PM
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wat's dat noise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Ah ha,

Now I see a total of 6 arrows pointing in opposite directions.
So whenever one sees the arrow, just make sure that arrow faces the steel flange, whether it is the flange from the trans or driveshaft per Pelican DIY.
Ebonix, your arrows do not line up as Pelican says but I guess it does not matter that much.


ha.....and all these while me was thinking that the arrows are indicative of how the bolts shud be fitted.that said,it also is correct if the arrows point to the flanges as cn90 quoted....done this on my previous e28, e30 and e34...the e39 guibe looks ok last i saw it....
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  #37  
Old 12-22-2011, 10:20 PM
ztitans1 ztitans1 is offline
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Great write up. It took me a while but I have dropped my exhaust and I am will next inspect the drive shaft, center bearing, and Flex Disc (giubo) to check for wear. This is my 3rd BMW and the other two experienced the "shuddering" on acceleration which turned out to be the flex disc on those cars. I will post again after the repair is done. I already have purchased the Flex Disc.

If you can afford it, this would be a good time to replace the O2 sensors as they are most accessible with the car raised up and the exhaust lowered to the ground. I am kind of broke right now as we head into Christmas, so I will be working on this car again very soon to replace them.
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  #38  
Old 04-08-2012, 06:25 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebonix View Post
G'day all...

Thanks for the replies, the questions and the curiosity - i've been away on summer holidays so i couldn't reply.

It's been over a week ago now since this part has been replaced and i can assure you, there are no vibrations, rattles, rubbing etc etc etc....just pure smoothness.

There is no reason to pre-load the centre bearing, i guess this needs to be done when REPLACING the bearing, no reason to change drive shafts (unless yours has a twist in it) i basically installed the giubo, put everything back as it was and drove happily ever after :P

Although my giubo has been replaced into the exact same position as the old one (original) came off, CN90 may be correct into how it is actually supposed to be installed, (fatter end of the giubo onto the gearbox mount??) I guess time will tell if and when it fails, but as for now, it's driving like it rolled out of the showroom 11 years ago.

Cheers!
What syptoms did you have? I only get a shudder/vibration coming out of first or second (automatic). and it's not that bad actually. I don't get rubbing or rattling. I was under the car and my giubo doesn't look bad at all, but I didn't take it out to find out. I forgot to look if DS bearing mount was in the center or not. sounds like that could cause vibrations too.

Also, did you get genuine OEM, or the JL Germany one. OEM is $113'ish and JL Germany is $49. I've used JL Germany parts before and they seems just like OEM. I was curious. You mentioned using a torque wrench to remove bolts. Was there a reason? I'd rather not use my snap-on to remove bolts. :-) And what did you torque the bolts/nuts when you put it all back together? thanks.

Last edited by mjbennett9; 04-08-2012 at 06:40 PM.
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  #39  
Old 04-08-2012, 10:24 PM
ztitans1 ztitans1 is offline
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Low end shudder

Funny you should ask. I replaced a perfecty good flex disc and my problem wound up being actually a faulty coil. I disconnected the lead to each one and reconnected them at idle. When I did not notice any difference in performance I located the faulty coil pack. And woulldn't you know it, it wound up being #6 (the last one I checked).

I bought the coil pack at Auto Zone around $60.00 and my car has run fine ever since.
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  #40  
Old 07-12-2012, 09:21 AM
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Nice before and after picture of a Giubo in this thread:
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > How to Diagnose broken Qiubo ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
Get under the car and *look*....the difference between a good Giubo ("Jew-Bo") and a bad one is fairly obvious, as this photo illustrates....
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #41  
Old 05-26-2013, 09:22 PM
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For the record, more dead Giunti Boschi giubo pictures were posted today:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jass View Post
Thanks for the advice.

I was under the car yesterday replacing the transmission mounts



And I saw the dead guibo:



It looks like it might have damaged some of the fire foil - but unsure if it was the culprit.

I am debating changing the center bearing - as this might be too much of an undertaking for me. I understand that the both of them is about a 4 hour job?

Also thinking about doing the transmission fluid change as well. I have no idea the last time that it was done (or if it has ever been done 130k).
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #42  
Old 05-27-2013, 06:20 AM
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There has been a little flurry of Giubo posts lately raising questions of orientation, bolt direction, reuse, torque etc.

Here is BMW's opinion on the matter. The important point seems to be that E39s came with either steel or aluminum driveshafts. The procedures vary for each.

Highlights
Pictures show bolts facing both ways, but in any instance all the same way
Nuts are described as self locking. Therefore theoretically should not be re-used. However Loctite might/probably would be OK.
Torque varies by D/S type
Aluminum D/S should have washers that apparently are not need with steel D/S
Giubo disk has arrows that are intended to point at the flange, i.e. the disk is directional
Tighten by holding bolt stationary, torque on nut








Torque Values











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Last edited by rdl; 05-27-2013 at 06:33 AM. Reason: typo & hold bolt-turn nut
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  #43  
Old 09-04-2013, 01:13 AM
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For the record, this was posted today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > help diagnose noise/vibration issue
Quote:
Originally Posted by chemist View Post
I have vibration and metal clunking noise when accelerate from 0 mph to some 25 mph. Noise is easy (now easier) to reproduce on acceleration, not so much on breaking. Volume and presence of the sound depends on how vigorous acceleration is. Weak acceleration, and the noise is too faint to notice and locate; strong: the noise is present for a too short period of time. But, normal (everyday commuter stop'n'go traffic) acceleration and the noise is there clear as day.
Vibration is under load (hence I think it's driveline connected): when car accelerates (especially from 0) its there, go uphill (20-40 mph usually) its there, when braking sometimes its there sometimes not, not sure on downshift.
To battle that, I replaced front brakes (pads and rotors, done that by following bentley instructions) and it did nothing. Then engine/transmission mounts, and it did seem to cure vibration to some extent. But, after some 100 mile road trip this weekend noise became too reproducible and too loud to ignore.
Last April I had very similar noise and replacing center support bearing (new CSB was alledegly a Uro part) seemingly helped to eliminate the issue. But now, the noise is back. I took the exhaust/heat shield off to inspect CBS. The rubber is soft and pliable and the whole unit looks quite healthy. I checked (shook, twisted driveshaft and I can hear the clunk coming from CV joint. Just like here:

Does anyone have any idea if this play is normal? Play could be felt/heard on both lateral and tortianal jerks. Movement is well into sub mm I'd say (hard to be precise on that one).
Any help to diagnose that would be great.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #44  
Old 09-04-2013, 02:40 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is online now
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Hole lotta Yelling in here...

2 things..

the arrows... Dont matter..
2nd thing.. The pre load.... well... (cover your eyes some of you)

once the car has settled... just tighten the center drive shaft support... Thats why its slotted..
I wouldn't call that pre load..
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  #45  
Old 10-14-2013, 09:09 PM
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For the record, this post came in today where someone had trouble with the giubo bolts:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > AT MY WITTS END!! Guibo bolts stuck..

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrtec View Post
I am attempting to remove my driveshaft. I have a southern car with no rust, not even on my exhaust bolts (they came off super easy) BUT I spent the last 4 hours of my night attempting to remove the 3 bolts that hold the shaft to the guibo with no luck..

I tried the following:

PB blaster
21mm box wrench on engine side socket on the trans side pushed with all my might.. nothing..

PB blaster
21mm box on engine side impact gun on back side

PB blaster
21 box on front side, breaker bar on back side....

What the hell.. the car is torn apart, I cannot get these bolts off...

I read on some other boards about the older 5's that the guibo is under pressure and you have to use hose clamps on it to relieve the pressure?? ANY TIPS or hints very welcome.. I'm dying here. Seriously I am beyond the frustration level that is safe for all other citizens of my town and my co-workers.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #46  
Old 02-27-2014, 06:17 AM
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There are some good lessons learned in this thread today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Replaced Guibo & Center Bearing ---Vibration DOH!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonv44 View Post
Success! Thanks for all the advice. I dropped the exhaust, inspected the center bearing and ended up replacing the Guibo (again) but the center bearing was good. I noticed that I was 1 spline off on the driveshaft and it tore up the guibo. Which was made in china. Bought a Febi/Bilstein one from Pelican Parts and swapped it out. Running like a dream now...oh and I also preloaded the center bearing. Fingers crossed everything stays solid!!! Thanks again1
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #47  
Old 03-03-2014, 07:16 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Hi,

Did you torque the guibo bolts to a spec? or just tight, or VERY tight?

[QUOTE=Ebonix;5747333]A step by step DIY guide for giubo (propeller drive shaft flex disk) replacement for those that asked and are interested.

[

Last edited by mjbennett9; 03-13-2014 at 02:46 PM.
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  #48  
Old 03-13-2014, 02:45 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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I ended up not attempting to do this as a DIY. Something told me living in an apartment without the right gear to lift the car on all fours would be a bad idea. While at the shop having my new ABS programmed, I mentioned I might be attempting to do a DIY for the flex disc and new trainy mounts. He said that's cool, and a lot of guys like to work on their bimmers. But he said I just happened to do one yesterday, a guy just like you. likes to work on his car, but knew when something might be beyond their grasp. And he said it's a bitch. Even with a lift and power tools, it's a solid 2 hour job (for a pro). He stretched it another hour to do the trainy mounts--if I selected him to do it. He didn't have the time when I was there, so I went to a local guy, same quote--3 hours. He too said it was rough, and he said the car came from the Northeast, and he was right--rusted bolts! While none of the Guibo bolts broke, he said one did on a support bracket for the exhaust. And he also replaced two exhaust gaskets (that I didn't give him). so that was cool.

It was well worth the 3 hours labor. I found two local shops. One that I have the ABS programmed is $80/hr, and the other (guibo) is $90/hr. Oh, and he put new nuts on the Guibo, that I provided. He said the original bolts were fine/solid.
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  #49  
Old 03-13-2014, 03:42 PM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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Nothing wrong with knowing not to bite off more than you can chew. This is what smart people do.
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  #50  
Old 07-15-2014, 05:50 PM
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For the record, this Giubo thread was opened today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Guibo Installation - alternating direction on guibo corresponds to bolt insertion?
Quote:
Originally Posted by aa240sx View Post
Hello,

Currently performing a transmission job and wanted to know if anyone who has removed their drive-shaft has come across this curiosity.

Basically in every picture of an installed guibo, I always see the bolts lined up in one direction which is towards the transmission.

However, when I removed my guibo, the bolts were in alternating directions with 3 pointed towards the engine and 3 pointed towards the rear of the car. I also noticed that they corresponded to these tiny arrows that were imprinted on the guibo itself and that these arrows were pointed in opposite direction to each other as they alternated.

For some perspective, I have never had any driveline issues and the guibo that I've removed (though OEM I think) is in perfect condition and I will not be replacing it.

My question is, does it matter what orientation the bolts are when installing the guibo?

Thanks
See also:
- Worn drive shaft or "giunti Boschi" DIY (1) (2) (3) (4) & a drive shaft and center bearing DIY (1) (2) & how to spell giubo (1)
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__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-15-2014 at 05:55 PM.
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