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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-08-2011, 05:12 PM
Hootman Hootman is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 528i and 1997 328is
E39 Water Pump Noise

Can someone tell me if this noise is coming from my water pump? The car is an 2000 528i E39. Attached is a Youtube video I posted. Also the noise seems to be only at idle more pronounced when it is in gear at idle and the noise stops when I drive away.

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  #2  
Old 01-08-2011, 05:17 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Likely Water Pump BEARING or one of the Pulleys BEARING(S) going bad.

Whatever you do, STOP driving the car now unless you want to pay $3-4K to fix the engine from an overheat.


Search forum using the following keywords, you will get the idea behind "Cooling Overhaul".
"Cooling Overhaul"
"Bluebee"
"cn90"
"aioros"

PS: Use realoem.com for PNs, and then ask Mark or Jared at EACTuning.com to help you out re what to buy.
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2011, 05:26 PM
Hootman Hootman is offline
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I replaced all the pulley's last week and thought it might be the water pump. Thanks for the realoem.com advvice, I have used them once in the past and they had responded quickly.
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  #4  
Old 01-08-2011, 05:31 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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This is why you do a cooling overhaul.
Replacing the pulleys solves only 25% of the problem.
The WP has bearing too, and at 80-100K miles, the WP is unreliable.
Add to it is the Thermostat.
Then add the Radiator.
Then add the Fan Clutch/fan Blade.
Then add the Reservoir + Cap.
Then add the Radiator Hoses.
etc. etc.
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2011, 05:52 PM
Hootman Hootman is offline
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Ha! All good advice but will have to be piece meal still working for a living, but it will be done!
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2011, 06:01 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hootman View Post
Ha! All good advice but will have to be piece meal still working for a living, but it will be done!
Then do the WP first, I love my HEPU WP. For WP, use either:
- BMW
- HEPU....I am on the 5th year, zero issues. Hepu WP has metal impeller.
- Or Graf


You can get HEPU WP here, free shipping if order is more than $49:
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartsResults.aspx

Then other items can follow later.
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2011, 07:30 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hootman View Post
noise ... at idle more pronounced when it is in gear at idle and the noise stops when I drive
From the bestlinks thread, here is water pump noise:
- Video of broken water pump impeller noise (1)

Also from the bestlinks, here is alternator bearing noise:
- Video of cold idle engine intermittent squeal (how to determine cause)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hootman View Post
replaced all the pulley's
Which pulleys? There's a pulley on the water pump, the power steering pump, & the alternator ... plus a roller on the upper and lower tensioners and there's an idler roller. Which "pulleys" did you replace?

BTW, it's something you didn't replace yet... so it's likely one of these things which make noise when bad:
  • Water pump (see impeller noise video above)
  • Alternator/steering/fan belt (yes, belts can make noise)
  • Air conditioning belt (lubricate with water to see if it goes away)
  • Idler roller (check bearings)
  • Upper tensioner roller (check bearings)
  • Lower tensioner roller (check bearings)
  • Alternator bearings <=== this is what happened to me!
  • Power steering fluid level (can affect the pump)
  • Fan clutch (it generally doesn't make much noise though)
  • Air compressor (not generally implicated though)
I'm guessing the alternator bearings (ask me why I say that).

But guessing isn't the right way to do things. You need to either perform the complete overhauls or at least follow the diagnostic hints in the videos above to be sure. One way to tell would be to remove a belt but I do realize that's as much work as replacing the parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hootman View Post
Thanks for the realoem.com advice, I have used them once in the past and they had responded quickly.
Huh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
This is why you do a cooling overhaul
To show you how right cn90 is ... here is my (shortened) story:
  1. I had a similar noise at cold idle only (in about March)
  2. I couldn't diagnose it (I too hate throwing parts at a problem)
  3. In about August, the car died on the road (dangerous situation)
  4. Towed it home
  5. Replaced the entire belt drive system (including alternator)
  6. Noise went away
  7. Three months later ... cooling system fails
  8. I rip out all THE SAME PARTS (auuurgh) for a cooling system overhaul
  9. Fixed the power steering pump leak & checked the OFH for leaks
Hind sight? I wish that I had replaced both the entire belt-drive system and the cooling system at the same time. Lesson learned. Lessons taught.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Then do the WP first
From the bestlinks thread:
- What brand of waterpump to buy (1)

BTW, OP ... what does the date sticker say on your radiator?
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  #8  
Old 01-08-2011, 07:41 PM
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lild lild is offline
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that was my first suspect when i watched the video, i noticed that your fan seemed to wobble some.
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  #9  
Old 01-09-2011, 11:22 AM
Hootman Hootman is offline
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Goodmorning Beamers! Well I replace the waterpump this morning pretty easy job noise didn't go away (oh shoot) although I haven't driven the car yet maybe just need time to run the gerbles out of it! Wonder if the alternator could be making the noise? Threw a few hundered dollars at it the last couple of weeks but I think I'm still ahead of the game, car's got a bunch of new stuff on it, that's cool.

http://image63.webshots.com/63/4/82/...7kbOqqf_ph.jpg
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2011, 09:25 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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  #11  
Old 07-11-2013, 10:06 AM
harris2p harris2p is offline
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What did you end up doing to solve your noise problem? My car is doing the same thing after replacing the following with new parts: waterpump (Graf), tensioner and idler bearings, rebuilt alternator (with 2 bearings), new belt. I have not watched your video clip on Youtube but my car has the same noise problem you described for your car. It seems like the noise comes from inside the water pump ...
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  #12  
Old 07-11-2013, 12:43 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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harris,

Think of all rotating bearings:
- WP
- Pulleys x2
- AC Tensioner x1
- AC Pulley itself has a bearing inside it that should last some 180K-200K.
- Alternator (you rebuilt it)
- PS Pump
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  #13  
Old 07-12-2013, 07:19 AM
harris2p harris2p is offline
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After further inspection and with the use of a stethoscope, I found that the nosie came from the metal housing just below the oil filter box, and to the left of the alternator:

(see the center of this block, towards the rear:
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...42&hg=11&fg=30)

I could hear this clearly with/without the stethoscope. The brand new waterpump sounded sweet and the alternator made some noise but I think it's just electrons flowing.

Is the above a sign of the timing belt faltering? Can the timing belt check be a DIY? Or is it oil pump/suction/return valve ...

harris
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  #14  
Old 07-12-2013, 06:07 PM
occhis occhis is offline
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No timing belt in these cars.
It's almost certainly a bearing.
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Last edited by occhis; 07-12-2013 at 06:09 PM.
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  #15  
Old 07-21-2013, 06:19 AM
harris2p harris2p is offline
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Upon further inspection, I found that the noise is not from the external (of engine block) bearings or pulleys. This time I could clearly hear it (with a stethoscope) right on top of the metal box a few inches under the oil filter housing (part of the oil filter housing). Besides the noise, I could also feel the vibration while holding the end stick of the stethoscope.

After some reading on the forum, I'm guessing this might be related to:
1) oil pump bolts? But these are in the oil pan, far away from the vibration point near the oil filter.
2) timing chain guide bolts - I have no idea where these are and how to get to it ...

I'll look into the oil pump bolts first. If you have any suggestions, please post them.
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  #16  
Old 07-21-2013, 11:43 AM
AH673000 AH673000 is online now
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E39 Water Pump Noise

My bet it is neither 1) or 2) .

It is a bearing. So which bearing becomes loaded when you put the car in gear?

Sounds like it is a bearing on an accessory on the drivers side of the car , correct?

It sounds close the noise that a BO AC compressor makes when it is engaged and disengaged .




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  #17  
Old 08-02-2013, 02:38 PM
harris2p harris2p is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 BMW 528i (02/98)
AH673000, I considered your advice and took some more time to find the root cause. I took the fan off, and the AC belt, ran the engine at idle and used a stethoscope to probe/listen to different parts (the oil pan, water pump, power steering pump pulley, the back of the tensioner, and the front (moving part) of the tensioner (not pulley)). The front of the tensioner made the most noise and harsh vibration, while the back side of it was smooth.

I could not draw a conclusion out of the above. So I considered expending the oil pan gasket and inspect the oil pump chain, maybe another tensioner pulley, a tensioner. But what iff's ... I also considered taking the car to an indie ... rebuilt the engine/transmission, started searching for a newer car ... I was desperate. But then I fond many discussions in this forum, which compare mechanical and hydraulic tensioners, along with issues with each. That hinted me to search for a tensioner. Then I found a post on Amazon from the user " Love My GSD "SAYWHEN"", he provided a review starting with "This fixed the annoying squeak/chirp that my 02 BMW 330 had when idling warm in gear ...". Once I read this, I considered my probelm solved! I bought a cheap mechanical tensioner on Amazon for $37 and replaced it this morning.

The "noise" problem promted me to do these on my car this summer: replaced idler and tensioner pulleys, new water pump, rebuilt starter and alternator, days of worries; overspent $77 on these new items: serpentine belt (I re-used the old belt for now), chain guide spring, tensioner pulley (the new tensioner came with a pulley on it). I discovered that it was OK to run the engine without the AC belt, for troubleshooting.

Problem solved, with additional benefits.

Thanks all for tipping.
harris

Last edited by harris2p; 08-02-2013 at 03:00 PM.
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  #18  
Old 08-02-2013, 02:48 PM
AH673000 AH673000 is online now
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Mein Auto: 1997 BMW 528i
E39 Water Pump Noise

Great..... Kudos on sticking with it.

My wife loves her 528i and it is my job to keep her happy in it ..... So that means it never breaks down or makes strange noises..... 16 year old car puts a smile on her face everytime she fores it up.... Motor on !




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  #19  
Old 08-02-2013, 03:40 PM
RoddyVictory RoddyVictory is offline
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My car makes that same noise and i just replaced the water pump thermal stat and fan clutch.
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