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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 11-01-2016, 06:52 AM
Rob Mc Rob Mc is offline
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PM at 150k

I have a 2004 330ci w 153k miles. Burns some oil. (1 qt @ 1500 miles). Engine runs smooth. Want to invest in new suspension but don't want to do that ahead of any major engine PM to be done. Suggestions?
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2016, 07:23 AM
Art Teach 325Ci Art Teach 325Ci is offline
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Is this a new purchase? What's all been done recently? Once we know what you've already taken care of we can steer you a little better.

As far as the oil consumption, if you have inspected thoroughly and there is no leak then the most likely culprit is going to be the crankcase vent valve. You can get kits through the sponsors that include the CCV, all the breather tubes, and a new upper and lower intake boot that'd be my recommendation.
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  #3  
Old 11-01-2016, 08:12 AM
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smolck smolck is offline
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Every E46 I've owned or been a part of working on (roughly 20-25 of them) has needed a fuel pump between 150 and 200k miles. Being it is one of the few things that will leave you stranded, and due to the ease of the DIY and low cost, it is on my PM list. Other less important parts that NEED to be replaced (but don't HAVE to be) are things like: rear trailing arm bushings, motor mounts, trans mounts, guibo, center driveshaft bearing, diff seals and on and on. I assume your cooling system is refreshed every 70k miles, if not, add that too.
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  #4  
Old 11-01-2016, 08:13 AM
Rob Mc Rob Mc is offline
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I bought "Baby" new. Always changed oil every @ 7500 miles. Always burnt some oil. By 100k it was 1 qt every 3k. By 140k it was every 2-3k. Started noticing some orange foam on the underside of the oil cap. At 147k I started using her as weekends only.

At 148k I started hearing noise that made me think the Vanos was going bad. Checked oil and found it at the bottom of the dip stick. After hitting my head against the wall, I found the oil warning light stopped working. Replaced what was left of the oil and added a Lucas treatment. No noise from the Vanos and its run 2k without loosing oil. No external leaks ever.

Want to keep her going for a good while longer. Planning to put some money into new suspension and some interior work but want to be sure I have the engine taken care of first. Doing a compression check this week. Haven't seen any recommendations for timing chain replacement at set miles. Would appreciate any more thoughts on engine PM.

Thanks,

Rob Mc






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  #5  
Old 11-01-2016, 08:13 AM
marcozandrini marcozandrini is offline
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Does the car have maintenance records? How long have you owned the car? How long do you plan on keeping the car?

If there are no indications that the cooling system has been replaced you need to replace it now with OEM parts. Don't buy parts at the dealer as the prices are outrageous. Try FCPEuro. See Mango's cooling system sticky at E46Fanatics.

I'd certainly change all fluids. That includes the power steering fluid. I use Redline D4ATF. Change the power steering reservoir. Make sure the new one is made by ZF. The hoses should be checked for leaks.

The suspension could probably use a refresh. Struts and shocks should be replaced depending on the miles on them. Buy OEM struts and shocks. Don't forget the hardware such as the strut pinch bolt, the strut bearing and rear shock mounts.
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  #6  
Old 11-01-2016, 08:20 AM
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smolck smolck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Mc View Post
I bought "Baby" new. Always changed oil every @ 7500 miles. Always burnt some oil. By 100k it was 1 qt every 3k. By 140k it was every 2-3k. Started noticing some orange foam on the underside of the oil cap. At 147k I started using her as weekends only.

At 148k I started hearing noise that made me think the Vanos was going bad. Checked oil and found it at the bottom of the dip stick. After hitting my head against the wall, I found the oil warning light stopped working. Replaced what was left of the oil and added a Lucas treatment. No noise from the Vanos and its run 2k without loosing oil. No external leaks ever.

Want to keep her going for a good while longer. Planning to put some money into new suspension and some interior work but want to be sure I have the engine taken care of first. Doing a compression check this week. Haven't seen any recommendations for timing chain replacement at set miles. Would appreciate any more thoughts on engine PM.

Thanks,

Rob Mc

Attachment 580657

Attachment 580658
A lot of cars burn oil due to the CCV going bad and they don't replace them. It is a glorified PCV and needs replacement. I hope you also change your oil every 7500k miles and not the 15,000 BMW recommends.

One way to slow oil consumption I used with great success was using Lubro Moly engine flush before each oil change. It helps clean out the oil control rings which get coked up and cause the burning in the E46. I got the lubro moly locally at NAPA.
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
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  #7  
Old 11-01-2016, 08:29 AM
Art Teach 325Ci Art Teach 325Ci is offline
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At that mileage you could certainly through in VANOS seals and a DISA rebuild too...
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  #8  
Old 11-01-2016, 08:31 AM
nj7783 nj7783 is offline
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Does the 2004 have the 2-lane dipstick-tube CCV drainage problem like the 2000 323i? I took my tube out and it was clogged on the bottom from the ccv drainage which causes the orange stuff under the oil cap. They make a single-walled dipstick tube update.
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  #9  
Old 11-01-2016, 08:31 AM
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smolck smolck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Teach 325Ci View Post
At that mileage you could certainly through in VANOS seals and a DISA rebuild too...
I can't believe I forgot that. Sounds like the OP needs the rattle fix as well (can order along with the Beisan VANOS seals).
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....

Last edited by smolck; 11-01-2016 at 09:16 AM.
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  #10  
Old 11-01-2016, 09:12 AM
John Davis John Davis is offline
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Amen to what Art says about the DISA rebuild--there's a recent thread about the DISA in the E46 forum that you may want to look at, if you're not familiar with that issue. The consensus is that the GAS rebuild kit is the way to go, and that this should be done even if there are no signs of DISA trouble.
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  #11  
Old 11-01-2016, 09:18 AM
Art Teach 325Ci Art Teach 325Ci is offline
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+1 John and Smolck

GAS Disa Rebuild. Beisan is what I see recommended most on here for VANOS seals/rattle kit.

Quote:
Does the 2004 have the 2-lane dipstick-tube CCV drainage problem
Absolutely
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  #12  
Old 11-01-2016, 10:05 AM
DEADF15H DEADF15H is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Mc View Post
I bought "Baby" new. Started noticing some orange foam on the underside of the oil cap.

Checked oil and found it at the bottom of the dip stick. After hitting my head against the wall, I found the oil warning light stopped working.

Attachment 580657

Attachment 580658
As mentioned before, the CCV refurb with the appropriate attention to the dipstick tube, should fix the orange milk. I suspect it may start to pop up again once the temperature starts to dip again. It is a simple step by step process if you follow a DIY, but it is more time consuming that most.

Here's a DIY: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=417819

Great DIY Video from BavAuto:

Last edited by DEADF15H; 11-01-2016 at 10:08 AM.
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  #13  
Old 11-01-2016, 03:20 PM
Rob Mc Rob Mc is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 330ci
Thanks all... looks like I will be spending some time surfing parts on FCP Euro and You Tube...

Rob
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  #14  
Old 11-01-2016, 03:54 PM
nj7783 nj7783 is offline
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I wanted to add you can just clean out your dipstick tube, if it's clogged, with pressure, etc. You don't have to buy the update. It only clogs up every 70k miles or so i was reading, so you can just clean it out again after so long.
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  #15  
Old 11-01-2016, 04:51 PM
DEADF15H DEADF15H is online now
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If you do the whole CCV system:

Clean out your ICV and pop in a new cheap green tube thingy, and clean the throttle body while you have all that stuff apart, definitely check your DISA as well. Threads are out there on all of the above. Maybe an extra hour of work at most.

Last edited by DEADF15H; 11-01-2016 at 04:52 PM.
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  #16  
Old 11-01-2016, 06:59 PM
Art Teach 325Ci Art Teach 325Ci is offline
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The kit I got from FCP included the idle control valve grommet, and the gasket for the throttle body I think. But that's a good point to make sure and clean the idle control valve and throttle body while you're at it. Might as well do the DISA at the same time?
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  #17  
Old 11-01-2016, 08:48 PM
DEADF15H DEADF15H is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Teach 325Ci View Post
The kit I got from FCP included the idle control valve grommet, and the gasket for the throttle body I think. But that's a good point to make sure and clean the idle control valve and throttle body while you're at it. Might as well do the DISA at the same time?
Yes, you can get the top of the line German Auto Solution's rebuild kit for $85. I didn't and now wish I had. Just search DISA rebuild and I'm sure the website will come up, or check the wiki.
Also pull the throttle body out to completely clean the back side, where all the crud builds up.
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2016, 07:28 AM
marcozandrini marcozandrini is offline
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Advice to self: read the posts completely!!

How much oil does the engine use? Are there any oil leaks? The M45B30 engine (3.0 liter) has low tension oil control rings (LTOCRs). They need a constant crankcase vacuum to work properly. If you are intent on keeping the car long term I suggest you install an oil catch can in the "drug bin." Why? The CCV is poorly designed and a pain to change. I changed the CCV in my 2001 330Ci three times with OEM parts. It still burned a quart of Mobil 1 0W40 every 400-500 miles. I installed an oil catch can and the engine burns zero oil.

There's a mod (by 02pilot) that uses a vacuum line to connect the unused port on the CCV body to an unused vacuum port at the back of the intake manifold. It seems to reduce oil burning by increasing crankcase vacuum. My issue with the mod is that it sends unfiltered (by the CCV) vapors into the intake.
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  #19  
Old 11-02-2016, 10:29 AM
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smolck smolck is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcozandrini View Post
Advice to self: read the posts completely!!

How much oil does the engine use? Are there any oil leaks? The M45B30 engine (3.0 liter) has low tension oil control rings (LTOCRs). They need a constant crankcase vacuum to work properly. If you are intent on keeping the car long term I suggest you install an oil catch can in the "drug bin." Why? The CCV is poorly designed and a pain to change. I changed the CCV in my 2001 330Ci three times with OEM parts. It still burned a quart of Mobil 1 0W40 every 400-500 miles. I installed an oil catch can and the engine burns zero oil.

There's a mod (by 02pilot) that uses a vacuum line to connect the unused port on the CCV body to an unused vacuum port at the back of the intake manifold. It seems to reduce oil burning by increasing crankcase vacuum. My issue with the mod is that it sends unfiltered (by the CCV) vapors into the intake.
My old ZHP was an oil burner too. It burned about 1qt per 400 miles. I ran a couple lubro moly flushes through it and it would only burn a qt every 1500 miles for a short time, then start burning again as the oil control rings got caked up again. I did the catch can (vids on my youtube page) and it helped, but did not eliminate the burning.

But I loved seeing all that crap in the can and knowing it didn't go into my intake! And, my DISA valve was SPOTLESS
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