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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-28-2011, 07:16 PM
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When are E39 OBDII diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) & pending codes auto cleared?

The question came up in this thread:
- 2001 525I peroidically studders on accelerate

So I figured I'd ask all on its own.

Here's the question:
Quote:
If the engine computer threw a DTC, and then I drove a thousand miles without that DTC being thrown again, would the DTC clear on its own?

Likewise, if only a pending DTCs was thrown, and then in a thousand miles of driving no other problems occurred, would the pending DTC clear on its own?
What parameters does the engine computer use to clear a code on its own?
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  #2  
Old 02-28-2011, 10:55 PM
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LaCrosse540i6 LaCrosse540i6 is offline
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From http://www.innovationhouse.com/produ...formation.html


Pending DTC "Some diagnostic trouble codes are only stored if the fault occurs a certain number of times. Until that happens, the code is regarded as pending. Should the fault not reoccur within a set period of time, the DTC will be cleared."

Although I'm not sure what the set period of time for our cars is, or what codes do not clear on their own.
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  #3  
Old 03-01-2011, 12:16 AM
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Ok, well I still haven't found any information specific to BMW, but this site made for a good read. http://www.obdii.com/

Apparently in some cases if a car completes three driving cycles without a re-occurrence of the problem, the pending code will be erased.
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaCrosse540i6 View Post
this site made for a good read. http://www.obdii.com
Digging 'smore ... I wonder if QSilver7 can come to the rescue?

Here's his quote - perhaps taken out of context because he was referring to a gas-cap SES light ... but it still might be instructive:
Quote:
You'll have to go thru one of the four drive cycles below for whichever "Evaluated" part of the emissions system the fuel filler cap falls under. If after going thru the drive cycle, the issue no longer exists...then the light will go off. If the problem remains...then the light will stay illuminated:
Here's the thread he said it in:
- Loose gas cap has triggered Service Engine light

Here's his graphic (shrunk to 640x480):


Attached Thumbnails
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  #5  
Old 03-01-2011, 03:26 PM
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Armed with QSilver7's keyword "drive cycle", I find more information (but still it's a puzzle to me). Nonetheless, I'll report what I find.

This thread has a bunch of graphics about the "drive cycle" definition:
- ScanGaugeII

But, unfortunately, I can't make much sense of them (I included them below as attachments).

Additionally, in the following thread:
- Forgot Gas Cap

We have this quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKT BMR View Post
  • SES light will illuminate only after two consecutive drive cycles in which the fault occurs. Note that in order for operation of the vehicle to be considered a "drive cycle" for this purpose, the faulty system must undergo OBD diagnostic tests, which require particular driving conditions depending on the system in question. So, the next consecutive "drive cycle" might be after several instances of actually driving the vehicle, not necessarily the very next time it is driven.
  • Once a condition occurs for two consecutive drive cycles, it is logged as a failure with the DTC, freeze-frame data from engine operational sensors is saved, and the SES is lit. Then, if the vehicle undergoes 3 consecutive drive cycles (as defined above) without the failure reoccurring, the SES will be turned off, but the DTC and freeze-frame data will persist in the ECU, and can be read with a compatible OBDII scan tool.
  • If the vehicle completes 40 more consecutive drive cycles (for a total of 43 since the SES first lit) without a recurrence, the DTC and freeze-frame data will be erased from the ECU, and there will be no record of the failure.
And, in this thread:
- Alternative to Peake reset tools

Quote:
Originally Posted by RKT BMR View Post
There are several manufacturers of OBDII code readers and scan tools. Code readers can be purchased generally for around $100-130, scan tools run in the $300 range. They go on sale from time to time, so you can get better deals if you keep an eye on the newspaper. These tools can be purchased over the Internet, or at brick and mortar stores like Kragen, PepBoys, Grand Auto, etc.

A code reader will do just that, and only that: Read out OBDII DTC codes from the ECU. At a minimum they should be able to read both codes that have triggered the MIL, and pending codes (conditions that have not occurred on two consecutive drive cycles, but have not gone three drive cycles without reoccurring), and be able to clear the codes, freeze frame data, and MIL. A reader missing any of these features is not worth any amount of money.

A scan tool can read and display freeze frame sensor data in addition to the codes, can monitor and display sensor data (engine operating parameters) live while the engine is running, and usually has some sort of capture feature to record a window of operating data on with an adjustable sampling interval.



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  #6  
Old 03-02-2011, 04:11 PM
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For the record, QSilver7 kindly posted more drive-cycle information specific to the E39 here:
- Loose gas cap has triggered Service Engine light

Attached Thumbnails
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Name:	BMW OBD II Compliance and Check Engine Light.gif
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:13 PM
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Researching the "BMW Drive Cycle", I find this excellent E70 post (edit: also this excellent E39 post):
- Drive Cycle Reset

Which points us to this document:
- Federal Test Procedure (FTP) Drive Cycle

I uploaded the document just in case it disappears from the original link.

Here's an excerpt:
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf BMW FTP72 Drive Cycle Procedure.pdf (212.5 KB, 246 views)

Last edited by bluebee; 03-02-2011 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:44 PM
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BTW, when they say "idle cold", they really mean it.

See details from the E70 guys here (included below).
- obdii_drive_cycles.pdf

And, worse yet, notice the EVAP exercise can require an 8-hour interlude!



See also this interesting information from RDL from this thread:
- p0420

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
The drive cycle defined in the image is one that will do all the checks that the car has be certified for: evap system works, O2 sensors heat up and start reporting soon enough, closed loop operation controls emissions to certified levels, the O2 sensors respond to air fuel ratio (AFR) changes quickly enough, cat efficiency is above minimum, etc.

However, a particular trip (customer driving cycle) by the owner may not follow some elements of the defined cycle so that some tests may not be possible. For instance, a quick trip to the corner store won't have the highway portion of the full cycle so medium load & speed operation to confirm cat efficiency isn't possible.

Suppose the car has a CEL light set & the DTC is low cat efficiency. Further suppose you replace the cats and expect the CEL to go out after 3 (I think it's 3) driving cycles. But if the next 3 trips you take don't follow the drive cycle pattern to enable the check for cat efficiency, the CEL will not be turned off. In practice, a repair shop would clear the DTC and "dare" the ECU to reset the code - which would happen if 2 consecutive checks of cat efficiency fails. This assumes too that the pre & post cat O2 sensors are reporting accurately. It's entirely possible that a reported low cat efficiency DTC is a result of bad O2 sensor(s); DTCs are a helpful guide to faults, not an autopilot route to the root cause. Being able to work out which is which before replacing expensive parts is why a good diagnostic guy is worth his/her weight in gold.

Another example mentioned as an exception to the defined drive cycle is the 3,000 RPM limit. When the engine is operated at high speed the O2 sensors are ignored, the ECU uses the fuel injection adaptation values to set AFR based on the MAF reading of air flow into the engine. Emissions are not monitored at high speed & load. The attached PDF explains many of those details.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf BMW_fuel_trim_lambda_and_lambda_control.pdf (323.0 KB, 565 views)

Last edited by bluebee; 03-03-2011 at 12:45 AM.
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  #9  
Old 03-02-2011, 07:01 PM
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FYI, this is a common occurrence with Porsche 993s. They have a lame SAI system that the ports clog in and throw CELs. You gotta clear them before you can get your car smogged. The BMW readiness code reset drive cycle is the easiest way to do it, but still a PITA. I think it works for all of the Bosch equipped cars. I haven't had to do this with my E39, but here's what I know from doing it with my 993:

- You must do it twice.
- It says don't go over 3000 rpm, but I don't go over 2700 rpm when I do it.
- You have to start each run from cold. In other words, you can't just turn the car off then back on and do it again. The car MUST be cold. The test requires an engine temp. between 12c and 60c which is 53f and 140f.
- if you mess up on part of it, you don't have to go back to the beginning. For instance, sometimes trying to find a place you can go 20-30 MPH is tough. I got about 2:50 in a few times until I finally was able to go the whole 3:15. The same went for the 40-60 MPH section. I attempted a few times before I was able to get through the whole 15 minutes.
- Having an OBDII code reader that can read individual readiness flags is a BIG help.

Lastly, if you're in Los Angeles, it can be difficult to find a place to do this. Here's my suggestion (along with a map):

For the 20-30 MPH section, I used Vista Del Mar (the beach road west of LAX) going north from Imperial to Culver (indicated in red). There isn't much traffic and people don't really care if you're only going 25. Stay to the right and you're golden. If you continue onto Culver (indicated in blue) you can hop on the 90 fwy east to do the 40-60 MPH section (indicated in green). Take the 90 to the 405 south. By the time I got to Western I was done with the 15 minutes of 40-60 MPH. Mind you, this was about 7:00am on a Saturday morning, but I did the same thing on a Thursday afternoon and was done with the 15 minute stretch by the Long Beach Airport. Hopefully this will help some of you Angelenos who are trying to set the codes!

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Last edited by gonzilla; 03-02-2011 at 07:03 PM.
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  #10  
Old 03-28-2011, 08:58 PM
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For the record, QSilver7 has identified interesting drive cycle code-clearing details in this exclusive E39 test-for-the-team thread where I've removed my gas cap for a month to see what happens during 'normal drive cycles':
- Without a reset tool it takes approx 40 drive cyles to clear fault codes.

Specifically, QSilver7 reports:
Quote:
It takes approx 40 drive cycles to clear a code from memory once a problem is properly fixed and a "tool" isn't used to clear and reset the system. The light could possibly go out after 2 drive cycles but the code will still be in memory so it will still fail until approx 40 drive cycles have occurred.

A "drive cycle" (see the chart posted in previous replies) starts when the engine is cold then reaches operating temperature. So it could take up to 40 days if your car is a "garage queen" and you only drive it once a day. If you drive to work 5 days a week and the engine cools down completely before driving home...you could cut the interval to 4 weeks (2x5=10...10x4=40)

You must also realize that not every "driving event" may cover the criteria for a "drive cycle" for the various emissions systems in the car. The various emission systems are divided up into FOUR different categories...with each category having specific criteria that must play its course. Again, see the chart below for what categories and criteria required to accomplish a "drive cycle". This can increase or decrease the amount of time for the CEL/SES to reset itself without the use of a tool...or clearing its memory completely (even with the use of a reset tool):
Personally, I find this entire drive cycle testing frustrating because I'm trying to identify the codes that occur when you leave your gas cap on the gasoline pump and drive off without it.

Apparently, based on my report below in this thread:
- Loose gas cap has triggered Service Engine light

It will be about a week or more before you realize your gas cap is gone!
Quote:
Basically, here's what (seems to) happen without a fuel filler cap for weeks on end:
  1. Every week or so (under my normal drive actions), the BMW drive cycle is at a point where it senses the lack of a fuel filler cap.
  2. A warning 'ding' is heard while I'm turning or maneuvering the car in my constricted driveway.
  3. The CHECK FILLER CAP message is so momentary that you barely can see it if you're turning your steering wheel.
  4. By the time you stop to look, even if you were going only 5 miles per hour, the warning is gone.
  5. Typically, the warning happens again, within a few moments of resuming your drive out of the garage down the driveway; and yet again, it lasts barely a second or two before it's gone.
  6. Frustratingly, it does not reappear until the NEXT drive cycle (which could be a week or so later!).
  7. At some point (I haven't determined exactly when), the SES will light, and the DTC fault code will be P0455.
  8. P0455 on my engine computer (ECU: MS43, Engine: M54, from 01.09.01 till 31.08.02) is confusingly defined as "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (large leak) or Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Short Circuited".
  9. When I clear the P0455 fault code, the error sequence repeats within a week or two as described above (under my normal supermarket-and-coffee-shop shopping driving habits).
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Old 04-23-2011, 02:46 AM
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For the record, this post has a nice PDF on the BMW FTP Drive Cycle for Emissions Testing:
- Need complete Drive Cycle Routine to fill in DTC blanks for Emissions Testing
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File Type: pdf BMW_FTP_Emissions_DRIVE_CYCLE.pdf (212.5 KB, 239 views)
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  #12  
Old 04-23-2011, 04:48 AM
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So far all of the above are discussing emission codes. Other codes, like unplugging your MAF, will clear itself after you plug it back in and start the engine 3 times. No driving is required. Even after the CEL/SES clears itself it is still in memory within the DME. We can't read it with our handheld tools, but BMW can with their big buck computer.
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Old 04-23-2011, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
Other codes, like unplugging your MAF, will clear itself after you plug it back in and start the engine 3 times. No driving is required.
Interesting. I wasn't even aware of the distinctive difference.

Thanks for updating this.
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:55 PM
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Over in post #393 of the canonical ABS control module trifecta thread:
- 2002 E39 ASC BRAKE ABS lights on => Diagnostic Procedure & Parts Location

Fleetman kindly ran a BMW drive cycle test run to see when that particular fault sets and clears itself.

For the record, here are his astute observations:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleetman View Post
Since replacing a bad wheel sensor, I have had no ASC/ABS and/or Check Engine lights on....approximately 1,400 miles since repair.

This morning I disconnected the R/R wheel sensor and immediately had the ASC/ABS lights on but no Check Engine light.

I drove to my office 60 miles south, left it running, and made the return trip north.....naturally, the ASC/ABS lights were on the whole way, no cruise control, but still no Check Engine light.

Got home, shut it down, finished my coffee and re-started....still had the ASC/ABS lights on and still no Check Engine light....pulled out of the driveway for a test run and within an estimated 100', the Check Engine light came on.

This was the second start of the day with a simulated bad wheel sensor so I'm surmising the drive cycle can also be associated with the number of engine starts/miles driven??

I reconnected the wheel sensor and when re-started, the ASC/ABS lights were off (after the bulb check upon ignition), cruise was back, but the Check Engine light was still on....code P0500. Cleared the engine code and no light.
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:07 PM
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This post today about pending vs stored codes wrt the drive cycle is interesting:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Both Codes Came back, Car is dying again

Quote:
Originally Posted by agent15 View Post
As I understand it there are pending codes and stored codes. A pending code is one that is saved for a number of drive cycles (3?). If the issue persists for N consecutive drive cycles, the SES light will illuminate. A stored code is one that has already illuminated the SES light, and can be read (and cleared) by just about any code reader.

An issue I ran into with a friend's E36 was that I cleared the OBD-II side airbag code for him, but did not clear the (stored) BMW code, so after he drove the car for N consecutive drive cycles, the warning light came back on even though the issue that threw it in the first place had been corrected.

So my suggestion is to get the codes cleared on both sides, then see if the SES light/codes come back. This will most likely let you know if one or both of your replacement parts are failing or bad.
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Old 10-17-2011, 01:18 PM
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For reference, here's a thread today about someone who failed due to non completion of the FTP drive cycle:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Inspection"Not Ready" Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by gcbimmer View Post
I went to get my 540i/6 inspected and it came up "Not ready".
See also:
- BMW FTP72 Drive Cycle Procedure 1.pdf
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Old 10-22-2011, 04:43 PM
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This post from QSilver7 in another forum referenced in this thread today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Smog failed due to sensors not ready

Has all the essentials in it for someone to ensure that they have readiness for all their sensors, or, for any particular problematic one:

Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
I just posted a suggestion to a similar situation last week. The OP kept getting a "not ready"...and I gave him some suggestions for going thru the 4 drive cycles. As you'll read, they do not have to be done all at once, as it doesn't necessarily occur like that in normal driving (where the "readiness" can be completed).

If you know which part of the emissions system is registering not ready...then jump right to that drive cycle and perform what the chart says is required for the OBD II system to "test" those systems:

Good luck.

Specifically ...
Quote:
The 4 drive cycles in the graph do not have to be done concurrently...they just need to be done. You can accomplish the reading of all the electronic emission systems by knocking off each "type" of drive cycle...one at a time. This is the way it would occur in a normal driving situation. Using your OBC's STOPWATCH can come in handy, too. It can help you with staying within the "time limits" required to meet a drive cycle's criteria.

For instance, the first one listed requires a "cold engine"...so that one must obviously be done upon a cold start...like first thing in the morning or when you're preparing to leave work (after the car has been sitting all day). Sit there and idle for the 2 minutes & 10 seconds (use the OBC's STOPWATCH feature to help with the time) while the secondary air system & evap leak detection systems are being tested.

The 2nd drive cycle can be done in an empty mall, school, or office park parking lot or country road where there's not much traffic. All you need to do is get up to between 20-30 MPH and maintain speed for 3 min 15 seconds (again, you can use the OBC STOP WATCH)...and this will allow the 02 sensors and closed loop systems to be evaluated.

The 3rd drive cycle can be accomplished on the highway (in the right or middle lane)...just accelerate up to 40-60 MPH and turn on the cruise...also start the OBC STOPWATCH and maintain that constant speed for 15 minutes. This will evaluate the Catalytic Converters & 02 sensors.

And the 4th drive cycle can be accomplished in a parking lot, or less traveled country/suburban road, or even an alley way etc. Just decelerate from speed and come to a stop for 5 min (again the OBC STOPWATCH comes in handy). This will allow the evaporative leak system to be evaluated.

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Old 11-09-2011, 05:05 PM
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This interesting story was posted today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Inspection"Not Ready" Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by gcbimmer View Post
The car finally passed on Saturday. I did not reset the codes. I can tell you that all together I had driven the car about 300 miles and attempted the above cycle on local and highway roads and it is basically impossible to do it on Long Island in one shot. I did manage to do all at least twice but the the final stage (decelerate from 60 to 0 and idle 5 minute). I did decelerate from 60 - 20mph few times with no brake. Each time I started the car I let it idle from cold 2.5 minutes and would idle it 5 minutes before turning off...I did this about 5 times, which is basically 5 days because it has to be cold. I cannot say when it became ready, but it did....finally!!!

Thanks for all your help!
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:32 PM
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I was researching an answer for this thread today ...
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > 2001 530i question...
Quote:
Originally Posted by stoneman1027 View Post
I got my 01 530i back in June and i still cant pass the emissions test ... it needs to complete the drive cycle. that was over 3000 miles ago.
... When I realized we should probably consolidate the powerful information in the following three threads:
  1. E39 (1997 - 2003) > When are E39 OBDII diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) & pending codes auto cleared?
  2. E39 (1997 - 2003) > Loose gas cap has triggered Service Engine light
  3. E39 (1997 - 2003) > Missing Gas cap and check engine light
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzilla View Post
- Having an OBDII code reader that can read individual readiness flags is a BIG help.
This thread is helpful but I have a question about the readiness tests.

I just had a CCV-to-dipstick hose replaced and then bought a rubber boot for the ICV which was leaking based on the smoke test yesterday.

This morning, after a 20 mile cold start drive, the cheap maxiscan OBD reader showed no codes and all but one test ready.

There was no MIL light but it still said MIL=ON and it said the secondary air system was "2AIR=NOT READY".

Do you think it will fail given this?
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trebbia View Post
Do you think it will fail given this?
Yes. At least in California, you'll fail simply because you're not ready to test.

However, if I understand the FTP correctly, you simply need to start the car when cold - and then idle for at least 2 minutes and 10 seconds (see the FTP PDF already posted in this thread).

However, the FTP cycle still confuses me even after having read the PDF above.

For example, while I realize the FTP has 4 stages:
a) Cold start, idle for 2minutes 10seconds <== SAS, Evap leak
b) ~25mph for 3minutes 15seconds <== O2 sensor, closed loop operation
c) ~50mph for 15minutes <== Cat, O2 sensor
d) Decelerate, stop, idle in gear for 5 minutes <== Evap leak

Can we do these four stages out of order and still clear codes (e.g., a, c, b, d)?
Or do the stages have to be done in the order above (i.e., a,b,c,d)?
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Last edited by bluebee; 06-03-2012 at 10:07 AM.
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  #22  
Old 06-03-2012, 08:15 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is online now
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Hi Bluebee...I was getting worried because I hadn't seen you post in a while...glad to see you're still around.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
...

For example, while I realize the FTP has 4 stages:
a) Cold start, idle for 2minutes 10seconds <== SAS, Evap leak
b) 25mph for 3minutes 15seconds <== O2 sensor, closed loop operation
c) 50mph for 15minutes <== Cat, O2 sensor
d) Decelerate, stop, idle in gear for 5 minutes <== Evap leak
Can we do these four stages out of order and still clear codes (e.g., a, c, b, d)?
Or do the stages have to be done in the order above (i.e., a,b,c,d)?
It was previously mentioned in some of the info you re-posted above that some of the OBD II drive cycle tests can be accomplished "out-of-order"...it's been established as what is required in a drive cycle for the sensors to be "tested"...you typed them in your quote above.

For example, if during the course of driving...you accelerate up to 25-30 MPH & maintain that speed 3 min 15 sec (b in your quote above), the 02 sensor response & switching time & closed loop operation will be tested/evaluated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Qsilver7
The 4 drive cycles in the graph do not have to be done concurrently...they just need to be done. You can accomplish the reading of all the electronic emission systems by knocking off each "type" of drive cycle...one at a time.


Another thing that caught my attention was that there was a little confusion in a post further up that mentioned codes that didn't set off the MIL. We must remember that OBD II codes are a complete set of codes that are different from BMW proprietary codes. OBDII codes are a federal mandate whereby ALL car mfg's must comply with maintaining the electronic emissions system. These codes and retrieval of these codes are a universal standard. Our cars can have other non OBD II codes that require BMW proprietary equipment to access that do NOT set of the MIL/CEL/SES light because they don't fall into the electronic emissions system/OBD II category.

SES/CEL/MIL = OBD II codes = electronic emissions system ONLY (non emissions related codes will not set off the SES/CEL/MIL warning light)


And one last tip...if you get a PRIORITY 2 warning (this only applies to those that have the HIGH instrument cluster)...these warning may be brief and only appear in the display for a short period...BUT...if the status arrows are present in the 20 digit alpha/numeric display...it indicates that there is a PRIORITY 2 warning...and all you have to do is PRESS the right button on the instrument cluster and it will pull up the PRIORITY 2 warning(s) that caused the GONG to go off. If you have multiple warnings...they will be displayed in progression with each press of the check control button (right button) on the cluster.

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Last edited by QSilver7; 06-03-2012 at 08:34 AM.
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  #23  
Old 06-03-2012, 08:30 AM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Yes. At least in California, you'll fail simply because you're not ready to test.

However, if I understand the FTP correctly, you simply need to start the car when cold - and then idle for at least 2 minutes and 10 seconds (see the FTP PDF already posted in this thread).

I'm not sure how many times you need to cycle this though ... as the FTP confuses me even after having read all about it.

For example, while I realize the FTP has 4 stages:
a) Cold start, idle for 2minutes 10seconds <== SAS, Evap leak
b) 25mph for 3minutes 15seconds <== O2 sensor, closed loop operation
c) 50mph for 15minutes <== Cat, O2 sensor
d) Decelerate, stop, idle in gear for 5 minutes <== Evap leak

Can we do these four stages out of order and still clear codes (e.g., a, c, b, d)?
Or do the stages have to be done in the order above (i.e., a,b,c,d)?
Welcome back BB.

Yes, you can do them out of order. Think of it like a "to-do" checklist.

Not sure if you have the attached PDF in your vast database. Page 7 and 8 are particularly helpful which is a subset of some of your links above.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf OBDproc.pdf (3.06 MB, 144 views)

Last edited by dvsgene; 06-03-2012 at 09:22 AM.
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  #24  
Old 06-03-2012, 09:46 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
what is required in a drive cycle for the sensors to be "tested"...you typed them in your quote above.
Hi Saint Q,
Thanks for the clarification. The part that confused me most was the "decelerate and come to a stop, idle in gear for approximately 5 minutes".

The word decelerate presumes a prior speed - and - coming right after the high-speed test - I was wondering if you 'have' to run the high-speed test and THEN decelerate.

My thinking was: If they're OK to do out of order, why do I need to "decelerate and come to a stop" if all I want to do is idle in place in gear on a warm engine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsgene View Post
Think of it like a "to-do" checklist.
That's a great way to think of it.
Only it's a to-do checklist that needs to be done TWICE in order to clear the codes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsgene View Post
Not sure if you have the attached PDF in your vast database
I remember some parts and not others so, for everyone to fully benefit, I'll add this PDF to the bestlinks for posterity ... so it's here long after we're gone.

Thanks.
BB
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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Last edited by bluebee; 06-03-2012 at 10:05 AM.
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  #25  
Old 06-07-2012, 08:38 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post

My thinking was: If they're OK to do out of order, why do I need to "decelerate and come to a stop" if all I want to do is idle in place in gear on a warm engine?

I think the simple answer is that BMW designed the EVAP test to be run with those specific conditions, so the ECM will not complete the tests unless you're driving at 40-60 mph and coast to a stop and idle for 5 minutes.

Several components are tested during this part of the drive cycle. What is not clear is exactly how the EVAP tests are done and how those are related to the drive cycle. For example, I've always assumed that the ability to purge the canister is tested during the coasting period, but that is just an assumption.
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