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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #126  
Old 03-09-2011, 10:15 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Sorry if I'm asking a quesiton you already answered in this long thread, but are you having problems with the starter or are you just wanting to rebuild it as a preventative measure?

I don't think starters on these cars are a common fail item, but they are a pain to get to if you have to remove it so I can see where you're coming from.

You may be able to find a local starter/generator/alternator shop that will rebuild if for a very reasonable price, especially if you supply the parts. That way you could make sure it is done correclty and will last a long time. Just a thought.

Steve
Steve,
It's a preventative move but heck, where do I stop/ We're all crazy about our E34's and if we had deep enough pockets, we'd turn our cars into 10 pointers, lol.
Haven't heard back from a supplier as to what is included in the rebuild kit so I may just leave it as is. It has never given me any problems.
As for taking it to a rebuilder, I can do a much better job myself no offense, lol.
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  #127  
Old 03-09-2011, 10:31 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricks5series View Post
Steve,

As for taking it to a rebuilder, I can do a much better job myself no offense, lol.
That's why they call you the Shaman. You're the heathen counterpart to the padre, although he's the one doing the s50 upgrade and you're rebuilding a stock machine, which means you're the conservative and not he. lol
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  #128  
Old 03-09-2011, 10:37 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
That's why they call you the Shaman. You're the heathen counterpart to the padre, although he's the one doing the s50 upgrade and you're rebuilding a stock machine, which means you're the conservative and not he. lol
Your right, but don't forget, my performance comes from my Corvette. This is the wife's ride and I want her to be in a solid running reliable car.
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  #129  
Old 03-10-2011, 10:09 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricks5series View Post
Steve,
It's a preventative move but heck, where do I stop/ We're all crazy about our E34's and if we had deep enough pockets, we'd turn our cars into 10 pointers, lol.
Haven't heard back from a supplier as to what is included in the rebuild kit so I may just leave it as is. It has never given me any problems.
As for taking it to a rebuilder, I can do a much better job myself no offense, lol.
No offense taken. I have no way of knowing your skills at rebuiling a starter. I'm glad you have the skils and knowledge to do it. I on the other hand, would summarily screw it up and have to buy a new one

Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #130  
Old 03-10-2011, 02:12 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricks5series View Post
Steve,
It's a preventative move but heck, where do I stop/ We're all crazy about our E34's and if we had deep enough pockets, we'd turn our cars into 10 pointers, lol.
Haven't heard back from a supplier as to what is included in the rebuild kit so I may just leave it as is. It has never given me any problems.
As for taking it to a rebuilder, I can do a much better job myself no offense, lol.
If you can start her without a stutter, you don't need to start on the starter. So just stop.

It doesn't get cornier than that. lolol
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  #131  
Old 03-14-2011, 11:27 AM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Ok, VANOS unit is rebuilt and installed so the top end is done. Just as I thought I was in to the home stretch I read a post about replacing the oil seal for the oil filter housing, the one between the housing unit and the engine block. Apparently this is the main cause of oil leaks which many mistake for an oil pan leak. Makes sense to me because this is the area I was leaking a lot of oil before I started this project.
I've come this far so I might as well change that seal and the small back flow O ring within that seal and the oil filter canister.

For those interested, here is the link.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=414315
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  #132  
Old 03-14-2011, 01:27 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Excellent work sir

Yes, I think you wouild be very wise to replace the seals for the oil filter housing. A diy write up and pics would be very nice if you do.

Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #133  
Old 03-14-2011, 07:58 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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The $4 gasket had to be special ordered and will be here tomorrow morning. Didn't get it at the stealer, they wanted $12. The gasket wasn't plasticized but was compressed below the surface so I'm sure it was not providing an adequate seal.
The alternator was not difficult to remove as described by some in the write-up.
I cleaned the oil housing unit, surrounding area and installed a new air filter.
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Last edited by ricks5series; 03-14-2011 at 07:59 PM.
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  #134  
Old 03-16-2011, 09:10 AM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Oil filter housing, alternator and valve cover were installed.
Going to skip messing with the injectors and just reinstall them today. They weren't leaking anyway.
My alternator fit in without any problems, wonder why so many have this problem?
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  #135  
Old 03-16-2011, 10:42 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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1. Fuel injectors : O rings can be left alone although don't see what you're having trouble with the removal.

2. Pintle caps removed first, then the o rings are cut out carefully.

3. New o rings are oiled up and slid over the injector into its place.

4. Pintle caps are replaced.

5, Try this on one first if you're not confident about the overall method.

6. Rick, did you get a new crank sensor?
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  #136  
Old 03-16-2011, 11:00 AM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
1. Fuel injectors : O rings can be left alone although don't see what you're having trouble with the removal.

2. Pintle caps removed first, then the o rings are cut out carefully.

3. New o rings are oiled up and slid over the injector into its place.

4. Pintle caps are replaced.

5, Try this on one first if you're not confident about the overall method.

6. Rick, did you get a new crank sensor?
Was wondering where you've been!

From what I've researched, once the pintle caps are removed it is highly recommended not to reuse them because the small inner clip(s) "will" break. They claim that they will look fin but they are fractured, so don't reuse them. Once installed, the pintle cap will fall out, not worth taking that risk. I found a few places like MrInjector who sells a kits which includes; o rings, inner filter screens and pintle caps for $25 for all 6 injectors!!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-I...s#ht_500wt_865

If I could stretch the o ring over the pintle cap, that would solve it BUT the o ring is supper small and would have to be stretched pretty far to get it over the cap. I may risk damaging it. Again, not worth the risk.
It's ok, I can remove them another time, pretty easy to do.

As for the crank sensor, I did not replace it but tied the connection to the oil tip sick as you suggested. It will be pretty easy to change it out if and when it fails.

Today I will flush the engine block, so I've held off on installing the w.p. & t-stat. so the old coolant can just flow out, then continue to connect the rest of the parts, exhaust, intake manifold, etc.
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  #137  
Old 03-17-2011, 05:48 AM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Almost done!
The biggest PITA on this entire job was reconnecting the right angle rubber tube (see photo) for the idle control valve. UNBELIEVABLE!

Everything of the intake side is hooked up, flushed the block a final time (w.p housing and pump were not installed while I did the flush).

Gave the front of the engine bay a final cleaning, radiator got pretty filthy with oily residue.

And especially for Roberto, see the youtube on my flushing technique.



Should be a couple of more days barring any hurdles.
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Last edited by ricks5series; 03-17-2011 at 06:13 AM.
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  #138  
Old 03-17-2011, 07:49 AM
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luckydog luckydog is offline
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That 90 degree idle control hose is one of the reasons i have the 91 .The previous owner somehow disconnected it halfway. He could not find the problem and sold it to me . A flashlight inspection caught it . I'm sure many of these hoses are loose. Nice work on yours.
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  #139  
Old 03-17-2011, 09:02 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Rick, thats a cool video. Lets talk about this more. Once again, would the thermostat and water pump be removed during actual operations? Wouldn't the thermostat close up once it feels the cold water coming in from the flushing hose at the bottom of the block?
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  #140  
Old 03-17-2011, 09:37 AM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Rick, thats a cool video. Lets talk about this more. Once again, would the thermostat and water pump be removed during actual operations? Wouldn't the thermostat close up once it feels the cold water coming in from the flushing hose at the bottom of the block?
When I've done it on my other car, it remained open at operating temperature so no, you wouldn't need to remove either one.
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  #141  
Old 03-17-2011, 11:54 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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So everything is complete, just need to add coolant tomorrow and start her up. I'll post a video if anyone is interested.
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  #142  
Old 03-18-2011, 07:34 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricks5series View Post
So everything is complete, just need to add coolant tomorrow and start her up. I'll post a video if anyone is interested.
Congrats and vid would be nice

Steve
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #143  
Old 03-18-2011, 09:34 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Crap! T-stat housing is leaking, ordered an aluminum one and will get it next Tuesday. Whatever!
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  #144  
Old 03-21-2011, 09:13 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Initial Startup

Still waiting for the aluminum T-housing but it kind of stopped leaking so I decided to do the initial startup.
You'll notice when I increase the rpm's to about 1500, the throttle begins to fluctuate high and low.
I'm also getting a "Transprogram" message and I think the tranny is now locked in "safe mode", you know. only 3rd & reverse. At least it feels like it when I place it in drive and attempt to move forwards.
Other than that it seems to run good. Lifters were noisy at first but have quieted down substantially.

Disclaimer: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO STOP A FAN WITH YOUR FINGERS! Disregard my foolish attempt.
Anyway, here it is.



You input is greatly appreciated.

Last edited by ricks5series; 03-21-2011 at 10:09 PM.
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  #145  
Old 03-21-2011, 10:00 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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It might be your trans proggy code. Some kind of limp home setting? Could you delete all the codes on your car (read them first) and then try again? Best to disconnect the battery or unplugg the ecu. The adaptive settings need to be deleted - the engine will then relearn the new airflow parameters...surely the airflow is much stronger considering the head and everything else has been totally decarbonised.

The idle looks to be at 800-850, and not 700. You might want to (amongst other things) adjust the slack on the throttle cable?

Way way too noisy for an m50 vanos motor that has just been top overhauled.

Your fuel injectors are really loud...that's so cool man. tick tick tick tick tick tick tick.

If i were you, I would double check the air intake channels, to make sure there are no ostructions. Perhaps open up the air box and have a look.
Dude....do not stop the clutch fan with your fingers dude. You are highly irresponsible, do you know that? All your fans....don't you realise that they will just ape you ? So please, put a "do not try this at home" disclaimer into your video at the very least.
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  #146  
Old 03-21-2011, 10:13 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
It might be your trans proggy code. Some kind of limp home setting? Could you delete all the codes on your car (read them first) and then try again? Best to disconnect the battery or unplugg the ecu. The adaptive settings need to be deleted - the engine will then relearn the new airflow parameters...surely the airflow is much stronger considering the head and everything else has been totally decarbonised.

The idle looks to be at 800-850, and not 700. You might want to (amongst other things) adjust the slack on the throttle cable?

Way way too noisy for an m50 vanos motor that has just been top overhauled.

Your fuel injectors are really loud...that's so cool man. tick tick tick tick tick tick tick.

If i were you, I would double check the air intake channels, to make sure there are no ostructions. Perhaps open up the air box and have a look.
Dude....do not stop the clutch fan with your fingers dude. You are highly irresponsible, do you know that? All your fans....don't you realise that they will just ape you ? So please, put a "do not try this at home" disclaimer into your video at the very least.
OK, seems I don't get error codes because the vehicle is experiencing any. The transprogram is apparently unrelated to engine codes.

Perhaps as you've suggested, disconnecting the ecu? Is that an easy thing to get to?

The ticking has almost gone away so I suspect the lifters now have sufficient oil in them plus I needed to add an additional quart of oil.

Yes, that was foolish of me to try to stop the fan blades. Wont happen again. lol.

Fuel injectors are making any noise.
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  #147  
Old 03-21-2011, 10:25 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Oh they are making noise alright sir. But that's a good thing. Tick tick tick tick tick tick tick....Which car out there as soo cool that one can even hear the injectors over the engine?

If you don't mind, could you post another video, a short one this time, of your engine? It would be nice to hear the motor sound more normal.

The ecu is on the right side of the car's engine bay, behind the shock tower. Its a big black box, with 4 phillips screws. Unscrew and pull the box out carefully (don't damage any wires or cables running alongside). You'll see two ecus inside. The one on the right is the abs ecu. The one on the left is the dme. It has a metallic harnessed clamp on the top, loosen it and pull it off. Leave the ecu there. That will do it.

I can't remember if disconnecting the ecu will reset the car's adaptive settings. I am very sure though that disconnecting the battery will accomplish this.
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  #148  
Old 03-22-2011, 04:28 AM
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Magnaflux is a chemical compound that glows under an ultraviolet light. You spray the metal item down with it and after some time you hit it with the light. Any small cracks will show up. Not something that is commonly done in a regular mechanic shop.

There is a bit more to it but it has been many years since I have done that. That is part of a PM on the catapult hook assembly of an aircraft carrier.
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  #149  
Old 03-22-2011, 03:33 PM
ricks5series ricks5series is offline
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Lifter noise is eliminated

Here is another video. Although it may sound like there is lifter noise in this video, there is none. Don't know why it sounds that way from this camera.
Anyway, the throttle is still fluctuating and it also hesitates upon quick throttling it.

Have disconnected the battery to reset the ecu but still getting the transprogram message.
No error codes though. ?????

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  #150  
Old 03-22-2011, 04:05 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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There seems to be a black plastic cable right under the brake bosster-intake manifold fitting, which runs over the brake fluid container. What is it?
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