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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 02-10-2011, 01:28 AM
sferley sferley is online now
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Dude!!!! that is a hell of a lot of work.. Your my Hero!
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  #27  
Old 02-10-2011, 08:45 AM
jamesthebikeguy jamesthebikeguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelley71 View Post
Today I spent the day waiting for UPS and Fedex. No one stocked valve guides so my head will be ready at 10:00 am CST.

But my valve cover were finished being powder coated.

I was told the valve covers must be baked at 400 to release any gases before powder coating. BMW uses epoxy to fill in any imperfections and powder coating has to be bare metal. But for 95 dollars my valve covers look great.

Tomorrow weather permitting I can reassemble the top half until I get my timing tools.
Who did your powder coating? was it local or mail-order?
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  #28  
Old 02-10-2011, 08:48 PM
Kelley71 Kelley71 is offline
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Powder coating was done by Advanced Powder Coating and Blast Services in Houston. Took 2 days. 95 dollars.

Today I got my heads back and are on the car!!

Note: Exhaust manifolds can be installed on the bench and put on the car with the heads.

Drives side you have to loosen all motor mounts the car and jack the motor up. I installed a bare head to save weight and gave me more room to maneuver. This saved a lot of time!!

Total cost of heads 533.00 for valve job, new valve seals, new exhaust guides, pressure testing and resurfacing, and cleaning.
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  #29  
Old 02-10-2011, 08:54 PM
Kelley71 Kelley71 is offline
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More pics.
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  #30  
Old 02-10-2011, 09:15 PM
pangolin pangolin is offline
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Question for the OP. Are you reusing the camshafts without regrinding? Are the camshaft bearing caps okay? Really I'm wondering if the sludge caused bearing issues?

For jamesthebikeguy.... if there is that much sludge, the seafoam, or any other product to remove sludge may be more detrimental. The loosened sludge will plug the filter immediately; the oil system will run in bypass mode, meaning the filter is not filtering.

If the OP's bearings are okay, one can argue the seafoam method might be okay, but I wouldn't do it like that. The disassembly method like what the OP is doing is probably better.
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  #31  
Old 02-10-2011, 09:23 PM
Kelley71 Kelley71 is offline
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The camshafts check out ok. As far as sludge, I use the old fashion, pick and varsol, method of cleaning. That took almost a day.

The reason for the original breakdown was compression in the cooling system.

I have no interest in using a detergent. I will change the oil in 500 mile intervals for a few cycles. The CCV system was shot. Plastic tubes falling apart. I feel this is a major design flaw.

I am an old pushrod motor guy. This is my first beamer. I have about 1200 in the job plus my time. I can only work for about 4 to 5 hours a day between jobs.

I do feel a sense of manliness after rebuilding the top half of this motor.

Last edited by Kelley71; 02-10-2011 at 09:24 PM.
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  #32  
Old 02-10-2011, 09:50 PM
pangolin pangolin is offline
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How much of the head was milled?
Since you're a pushrod guy, then I should point out the block is also aluminum, and should also be checked for warpage. Engines that had iron blocks and aluminum heads usually can get away with just milling the heads.
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  #33  
Old 02-10-2011, 10:11 PM
Kelley71 Kelley71 is offline
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My machine guy, told me the heads had almost no warpage. He took of a few thousandths to clear up some on the nicks on the heads because I had such a time removing it. He said I could use the stock thickness head gaskets with no problems.

Correct me if I am wrong but he said the v8 heads normally do not warp as bad as the I6 because if the length.

I took a fine disk and a super fine sharpening stone about 12 inches long to the deck of the block and checked it with a straight edge and feeler gauge.

I've never done but I have heard you can use 1000 F aluminum pain and paint a light coat over the deck to fill in any dips.

I busted 2 radiators on this car in about a 2 week time period. I was going to sell it but decided to tear it apart. While apart, I saw the guides and the other issues.

I am no expert but I am learning as I go along. It has definitely been a job, but I know I could cut 2/3 off the time after knowing the tricks now.

My only part that makes me nervous is setting the valve timing.

Last edited by Kelley71; 02-10-2011 at 10:12 PM.
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  #34  
Old 02-10-2011, 10:26 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelley71 View Post
The CCV system was shot. Plastic tubes falling apart. I feel this is a major design flaw.
Apparently the CCV design stinks. Here are threads, if you still need 'em:
- CCV FAILS: crankcase ventilation valve diaphragm tears, freezes (1), &/or clogs (1), necessitating CCV replacement (M54,M54,M54) (M52,M52) (M52TU) (M62,M62) ('99 528i) ('98 528i); raising pressures, often causing the OFH oil filter housing to leak (1) (2) (3); frequently blowing the VCG valve cover gasket (1); and sometimes the head gasket (1) (2); often causing vacuum leaks (1) (2) (3)

[quote=Kelley71;5840436]I am an old pushrod motor guy. This is my first beamer. [quote]

I'm in awe of you. Not only your mechanical expertise - but your experience and decision making. So it's with a bit of hesitation that I tell you that a beemer is a motorcycle; the car is the bimmer. No big deal - just letting you know. (There's a whole history on this, starting with beesers in the UK ... but the end result is that the bimmer is the car, the beemer is the bike).

BTW, I have words to look up myself (as I have no idea what 'powder coating' is ... so I'll look that up myself.

Quote:
Powder coating is the technique of applying dry paint to a part ... applied by either of two techniques.
  • The item is lowered into a fluidised bed of the powder, which may or may not be electrostatically charged, or
  • The powdered paint is electrostatically charged and sprayed onto the part.
The part is then placed in an oven and the powder particles melt and coalesce to form a continuous film.
Why powder coat?

Powder coating produces a high specification coating which is relatively hard, abrasion resistant (depending on the specification) and tough.
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  #35  
Old 02-10-2011, 11:59 PM
pangolin pangolin is offline
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I have never heard of this paint method. I believe the head gasket itself should have a coating. I think its a multi (3?) layer metal gasket with some elastomeric coatings, so no need for this paint coat you're thinking of. Anyway I think the block usually warps less than the head so you should be okay. And yes, the warpage of the sixes are greater due to the length.

The straight edge, feeler and sharpening stone should be enough. This is really a technique issue, it helps to have a really flat stone, the larger the better. Did I mention flat, a flat stone is really important. Clean the stone often, as aluminum is "gummy".
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  #36  
Old 02-11-2011, 04:03 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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Glad that's u doing it and not me, what a hell of. Job .... just my two cents but a light spay coat of copper gasket spay from permatex under the gasket will do u justice since u really didn't deck the block...

U could be a few thousands out of parallel, this copper spay will make up the difference

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  #37  
Old 02-11-2011, 04:07 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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  #38  
Old 02-11-2011, 08:33 AM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
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the valve covers look great Kelley!

You have to replace that broken hub though, I absolutely insist. Any slightest bit out of balance at the crank is going to shorten the life of that engine or pose other problems such as balancer coming off while running, and with a chunk that big missing plus the bolt you will be unable to put there it's just asking for trouble. Get in touch with me and we'll get you a new one coming.
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  #39  
Old 02-15-2011, 03:17 PM
Kelley71 Kelley71 is offline
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Its been a few days but being in the restaurant business, well you know. Valentines Day.

I found a local shop through BMWCCA and this nice guy loaned me his timing kit for FREE!

What a cool dude, not Taiwanese but actual BMW parts.

I havent had much time as of late but a few hours here and there. But she is coming along nice.

This job is not for the faint of heart only because of the hours involved. Setting the timing was really easy. The book makes it sound like putting together a jigsaw puzzle blind, but with the tools, it is really no trouble at all.

Gotta go back to work! Post more pics tomorrow, my day off!!!
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  #40  
Old 02-15-2011, 04:06 PM
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Great progress, good for you! I may be going through a similar deal very soon as well, you've probably seen my thread about low compression on E39 540i

Do you happen to remember the size of the crankshaft center bolt? I need to verify my timing, and I'm pretty sure I don't yet have a socket that large.

Lucky you, you got to use the timing tool for FREE, I will most likely end up buying a set.

Last edited by Flug540; 02-15-2011 at 04:08 PM.
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  #41  
Old 02-15-2011, 10:10 PM
Kelley71 Kelley71 is offline
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The socket is 27mm for the center bolt. I spent a day machining a tool for the counter hold to get it off but I can do it by myself now. Mine holds at 8 point compared to 4 and attaches to a 3/4 inch break over bar.

Feel free to IM me and I will give you any tips I experienced.
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  #42  
Old 02-16-2011, 07:02 AM
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Flug540 Flug540 is online now
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Thanks a lot!

I'll have to get the socket today, hopefully I won't need to actually remove it, for now I just need to crank the engine to verify my timing.

I think the fan has to be removed to get access to the center bolt, correct?
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  #43  
Old 02-16-2011, 06:00 PM
Kelley71 Kelley71 is offline
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Yes, you are correct.

Do you intend to replace the timing guide rails? You dont need to remove the lower cover if you are just doing a valve job.

I got ALOT done today. I am hours from finishing. Only need to put on the belts, vacuum system, and cooling hoses, and I can fire her up to see if she runs.

I worked in the dark so my last photo in the daylight I will post.
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  #44  
Old 02-16-2011, 06:28 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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I think we're all reading this thread with our fingers crossed for you.
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  #45  
Old 02-17-2011, 09:46 AM
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Flug540 Flug540 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelley71 View Post
Yes, you are correct.

Do you intend to replace the timing guide rails? You dont need to remove the lower cover if you are just doing a valve job.

I got ALOT done today. I am hours from finishing. Only need to put on the belts, vacuum system, and cooling hoses, and I can fire her up to see if she runs.

I worked in the dark so my last photo in the daylight I will post.
I don't plan to replace the guides as of now, they seem fine from the top. I'll be removing the top timing covers and most likely the lower oil pan and then it will be clear.

Great progress!
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  #46  
Old 02-21-2011, 05:53 PM
Kelley71 Kelley71 is offline
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Well guys, it has been 3 long weeks but the 540 is purring like a kitten now. Boy the first time I started the motor it sounded AWFUL until the hydraulics built up.

THEN I had a coolant leak into the number 7 cylinder. It was leaking coolant past the rings into the oil pan. So I took the valve covers off and re torqued the heads with a torque wrench to 65 ft pounds. She was still smoking a little. So I called Bars Products. The man Frank informed me that aluminum has a problem sealing at times. So I put the Bars product HG1, half a bottle. I was out of options. Within 8 minutes the smoke a miss was GONE! Before, the coolant light was coming on after about 5 miles. I ran the car at 1500 rpms for 20 minutes to insure the seal, and let the motor cool. No coolant was missing. Just a nice stream from the bleeder.

I rapidly changed the oil and filter and the #7 plug that was fouled. Now the car literally runs PERFECT. The sodium silica and reenforced with carbon fibers seals the leaks and does not coagulate with anti-freeze. The best 65 I ever spent. Bars told me for new gaskets that have not quite sealed perfectly that Rolls and Jaguar use this off the assembly line.

So was it a picture perfect story? NO but you cannot even hear the car idle. Drove it about 30 miles with no issues and the system bled perfectly. Purest will argue, but I was going to have to remove the head anyway if it did not work.

So I am happy. No coolant leaks, no white smoke, no timing chain noise and the car has more pep than it ever did since I owned it.

I will keep everyone informed on the effectiveness of the product.
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Last edited by Kelley71; 02-21-2011 at 07:51 PM.
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  #47  
Old 02-21-2011, 07:48 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Congratulations! Stories like this give us all hope. Nice job.
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  #48  
Old 03-07-2011, 04:42 PM
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Flug540 Flug540 is online now
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Hi Kelley71, any update, how is your car doing now?
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  #49  
Old 03-07-2011, 04:50 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Yeah, how's the Bars Leaks fix holding up?
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  #50  
Old 03-07-2011, 04:50 PM
Kelley71 Kelley71 is offline
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Car is doing great! Thanks for asking.

I had a leaking valve cover I fixed and a problem with a leaky injector but after that, no engine problems.

I had the transmission serviced with a new filter and new ZF fluid. She shifts much smoother now.

I did the whole job for around 2100 replacing the timing rails, head work with new exhaust guides, gaskets, new tensioners, powder coating, plugs, oil separator, pvc tube, and gaskets.

I am glad i fixed the car rather than scrapping as I originally started to. I can say I know every bolt on the car now.

I may at a later date pull the upper pan and change the rod bearings and check the rings and wrist pins but that can wait.
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