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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
Discussion of BMW's 4th generation E65/E66 7 Series flagship. The E65 generated much controversy, due to its radical styling and iDrive user difficulties. Nonetheless, the E65 broke records to become the best-selling 7-series iteration ever, especially after its 2005 facelift.

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  #1  
Old 02-23-2017, 10:33 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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2007 750li rough idle

Hello,
I have 2007 750li... Recently I noticed it started having rough idle rpm... I found that intake (throttle) boot is cracked. I replced it but the car still idles rough... No matter when - cold engine or hot... Any ideas? Did someone run into the same problem? Please help!?
Thank you so much!
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  #2  
Old 02-23-2017, 10:37 PM
Alika808 Alika808 is offline
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OBD scan it and you could get the fault code. Maybe misfiring........
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  #3  
Old 02-23-2017, 10:39 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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No codes. Check engine light is off...
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  #4  
Old 02-24-2017, 03:19 AM
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Ltmax Ltmax is offline
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One of these three things are most likely causing the problem:

1. Split diaphragms or plastic hoses on one or both of the Crankcase vent valves
2. Valve cover/timing cover gasket leaks or oil filler cap gasket.
3. IVM (Integrated Supply Module) starting to go bad. If it's more than 6 years old replace.
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  #5  
Old 02-24-2017, 07:01 AM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Thank you, Ltmax! Really appreciate your response. I will check all of that.
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  #6  
Old 02-24-2017, 07:13 AM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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One more question, Ltmax... So, I all those cases engine check light wouldn't come up?
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  #7  
Old 02-24-2017, 07:35 AM
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Ltmax Ltmax is offline
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Many times you won't get a check engine light for these issues unless the air leak is really big. IVM problems don't cause any codes at all but cause many problems.

This is a great little article about all the problems the IVM can cause.
http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3812
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  #8  
Old 02-24-2017, 07:37 AM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Thank you, Ltmax!
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  #9  
Old 02-24-2017, 06:19 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Ok, took it to the shop today... They did a smoke test and no leaks. Ltmax, does this cover your bullet points 1 & 2? Forgive my ignorance, please? I am not an expert in these things...
Going to buy that IVM module, hope this will resolve the issue...
Was driving home today, every red traffic light was pretty annoying. First 5 seconds everything is fine then it starts again to the point of the whole car shaking. The minute you touch gas pedal, everything is gone...
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  #10  
Old 03-04-2017, 01:53 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Hi Ltmax,
Just replaced IVM but still the same thing... did not help that erratic RPM... Anything else you could think of?
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  #11  
Old 03-04-2017, 02:34 PM
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Did they check the CCV diaphragms and hose that connects CCV's to the throttle body?
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  #12  
Old 03-04-2017, 02:37 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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I am not sure... they run the smoke test and told me that was the check of those... Is it? Or they were not honest with me?
Thank you
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  #13  
Old 03-04-2017, 02:41 PM
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No, you remove the plastic caps on top of the CCV's lift out and inspect the orange diaphragm for splits. Very simple to do, wouldn't waste my time taking it to a mechanic.

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  #14  
Old 03-04-2017, 02:44 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Thank you very much! I will try that.
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  #15  
Old 03-04-2017, 03:19 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Well, both diaphragms are good... I cleaned them and put them back but the video shows some vacuum lines connect to the covers... mine does not have those hoses... but there are the fittings on those covers where you could connect those lines... Do I suppose to have those hoses or some engines come without them?
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  #16  
Old 03-04-2017, 03:49 PM
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Ltmax Ltmax is offline
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No you shouldn't have the small vacuum lines that attach to the CCV's. Did you gently open up the diaphragms when you inspected them, most times the tear or split can be difficult to see until you fold it open all the way.

Last edited by Ltmax; 03-04-2017 at 03:52 PM.
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  #17  
Old 03-04-2017, 03:50 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Ok, thank you! Anything else? Is there a way to check MAF sensor?
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  #18  
Old 03-04-2017, 03:58 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Yes, I folded them out and they were consistently soft and no tears / cracks...
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  #19  
Old 03-04-2017, 04:46 PM
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I think that's about all you can do without a decent scan tool to try and start nailing down what the trouble is.

If it were me, I'd pull all the spark plugs and see what they look like, they may give a good indication of where to look next.
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  #20  
Old 03-04-2017, 04:53 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Thank you, Ltmax! I guess, I'll start doing these steps one at the time. I am not sure how scan tool could help me because there are no codes come up...
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  #21  
Old 03-04-2017, 05:54 PM
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With a decent scan tool you can check the fuel trims on each bank, read MAF, O2, coolant temp sensors and a bunch of other stuff that may point you in the right direction.
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  #22  
Old 03-04-2017, 09:00 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Thank you so much!
Does this have to be the shop scanner only or I could buy something for home?
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  #23  
Old 03-05-2017, 04:12 AM
blink_ blink_ is offline
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you could disconnect one of the vanos solenoids on the front of the engine, it will run fine like that, try it and see if your rough idle stops but do it with a cold engine, and once you start it, drive it straight away and see what happens, dont start it then stop it on your driveway
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  #24  
Old 03-05-2017, 08:11 PM
oleg_k oleg_k is offline
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Ok, I will try that. Thank you, blink_. If I disconnect it, would it throw some kind of code? Your warning at the end - if I stop it I won't be able to start the engine?
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  #25  
Old 03-05-2017, 08:17 PM
Davegsu Davegsu is offline
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Do you have any oil residue under the car? I had a six series thatched the same N63 engine as your seven. This engine is notorious for oil leaks than can be so bad that it causes misfires from unmetered air. You may need to shine a light down to the belly cover to see any pooled oil.


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