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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #226  
Old 05-04-2011, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
...looks like it would still be tricky to get both retaining clips seated in there...
It was not that bad actually, below is the video of how it looks like in action, and it just happens that the video represents probably one of the worst attempts of me installing a valve, this was one of the first ones I've installed. It required some practice, but after I got through a few first valves, the rest were very easy. I prelubed the clips first and once they are in the grooves, they just stick there.



Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
I love the shots of the heads with the valves in them and all the beautifully machined surfaces that are so nice and clean.
I love looking at those too, almost too beautiful to be installed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
Third, doesn't Snap-on have a lifetime guarantee? Those torque wrenches ain't cheap--well, nothing from Snap-on is cheap--an it might be worth seeing if they'd honor the guarantee.

Fourth, what did you finally decide to do about the bolts? Did they actually have some sort of coating on them, or did you apply one?
I did not buy this torque angle gauge brand new, it was almost new, but still second hand. But I may be able to exchange this, I'll give it a shot.

Yesterday I did more research on the angle torque gauges and it appeared that Lisle 28100 Torque Angle Meter was something people had good opinions about, so I ordered it with one day delivery. Got it today and immediately I could see that the design was much better then SnapOn. Today I did the final 80 degree pass on the bolts and everything went smooth .

I decided to go with the bolts the way they were with no additional coating. I'm not sure if they were precoated, at least it was not obvious. But I thought that since TIS mentions no additional coating or backup plan and these are original BMW bolts, they should require nothing extra.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joyism5 View Post
...this really makes other people to get courage to work on their BMW's...
Thanks for the kind words! I haven't worked on other BMWs, but this one so far is really easy and enjoyable to work on, most things are accessible I'm really loving it.

The other day I looked under the hood of a Mitsubishi 3000 GT twin turbo, that's something I wouldn't want to mess with, everything is so tightly packed, it almost looks like one solid mass under there. Maybe it's not as bad, but it seems that even things like changing spark plugs would require A LOT of work.

Below are some pictures of the angle gauges, the SnapOn one and the one from Lisle. The only negative for me in Lisle version of the tool is that the numbers on the dial are harder to see, but other then that it's a solid winner for me. The problem with SnapOn tool is that the dial and the glass piece with the needle are connected with a spring washer, which gets stuck and that makes the needle stay with the dial instead of following the wrench, bad design, I think.

Also some pictures of the timing cover installation "tool", which is just two pieces of steel bars, the same bar that I used to make the cam lock tool.
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  #227  
Old 05-04-2011, 05:15 AM
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Excellent documentaition sir :-) It's nice to see these stages in images/videos. I think maybe you could have been a surgeon :-) It looks like you've "scrubbed up" - parts and all.
Looking good. If your head bolts are oem I wouldn't be concerned about them.
When does the beast breathe again?
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  #228  
Old 05-04-2011, 11:27 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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The black crinkle finish looks great.
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  #229  
Old 05-04-2011, 03:05 PM
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Nice, nice video. Looks like you had fun...Can you please tell me the diameter of the pipes that you used for the valve tools? And the thickness of the raw material that you used for the cam tool. I am not used with inch sizes and is hard for me to appreciate the measurments... I'm a metric system guy. lol

About the cyl. head...I imagine that being a coffee table in the living room...That will be the bigest temptation when I will do my valve work...
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  #230  
Old 05-04-2011, 10:07 PM
BillAngel BillAngel is offline
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good pictures

Last edited by BillAngel; 05-04-2011 at 10:09 PM.
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  #231  
Old 05-04-2011, 10:13 PM
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good pictures

Your not at elevation are you? like 3500 ft+?
Thanks

Elevation? What did you mean? I guess I'm slightly elevated.

Last edited by Flug540; 05-04-2011 at 10:17 PM.
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  #232  
Old 05-04-2011, 10:48 PM
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sorry, I read only the first page, (not seeing the other pages). You hadnt taken apart the engine yet and were discussing the compression. In albuquerque, decent compression is about 160-175. I didn't know if you were at seal level or....at elevation.....
...but then i saw last page text and edited my post to "nice pictures", but i thought I erased the elevation comment.
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  #233  
Old 05-04-2011, 11:26 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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Alex, a couple of questions: Do the timing cover installation tools just keep the cover flush with the top of the head? Also, is that just a zip tie holding down the secondary cam chain tensioner?

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  #234  
Old 05-05-2011, 02:45 AM
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I am not used with inch sizes and is hard for me to appreciate the measurments... I'm a metric system guy.
25.4 mm = 1.0 inch

To convert inches to mm multiply by 25.4

To convert mm to inches divide by 25.4
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  #235  
Old 05-05-2011, 02:49 AM
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sorry, I read only the first page, (not seeing the other pages). You hadnt taken apart the engine yet and were discussing the compression. In albuquerque, decent compression is about 160-175. I didn't know if you were at seal level or....at elevation.....
...but then i saw last page text and edited my post to "nice pictures", but i thought I erased the elevation comment.
He is in California so close to sea level. The actual city is mentioned in earlier post so you can get the exact level.
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  #236  
Old 05-06-2011, 07:11 AM
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Can you please tell me the diameter of the pipes that you used for the valve tools? And the thickness of the raw material that you used for the cam tool. I am not used with inch sizes and is hard for me to appreciate the measurments... I'm a metric system guy.
Completely understand, I'm a metric guy myself

Don't know if you have access to Lowes, I believe that's where the pipe for the valve seal tool came from. There is still a tag on it that says "Steel Works Weld Stl - Tube (RND) 1/2" - 3FT". The internal diameter is 10.12mm, the outside diameter is 12.97mm.

The metal bar came from Lowes and it's a 1/4" by 1-1/2" by 3FT, or roughly 6mm X 38mm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillAngel View Post
In albuquerque, decent compression is about 160-175. I didn't know if you were at seal level or....at elevation.....
Actually, I am at about 600 FT above sea level...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
Do the timing cover installation tools just keep the cover flush with the top of the head? Also, is that just a zip tie holding down the secondary cam chain tensioner?
Yes, the new timing cover rubber gasket makes the cover stick out above the head surface, for installation one supposed to place the cover installation tool in place of the valve cover gasket and use 4 valve cover bolts to press the valve cover and the tool down to make the timing cover level with the head and then tighten the timing cover bolts.

Yes, I used zip ties to hold the tensioners from falling apart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by franka View Post
He is in California so close to sea level. The actual city is mentioned in earlier post so you can get the exact level.
Altitude actually varies depending where you are in the city, some parts of the city are at 0 feet and some are at a 1000 feet, I'm roughly at 600 feet.
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  #237  
Old 05-06-2011, 05:32 PM
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Thank You ! That helps a lot. I want to be ready when the right time comes...
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  #238  
Old 05-16-2011, 09:44 PM
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How are you going on Alex?
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  #239  
Old 05-17-2011, 09:31 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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Hey, Alex, we're Jonesin' for an update (with photos, of course). Have you had any time to spend on the car? Hope all is going according to plan.
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  #240  
Old 05-17-2011, 02:03 PM
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Hey guys, thanks for checking on me

I had a really crazy time at work, so the weekend before the last one I spent staring at the computer screen instead of working on my project. And the last weekend my parents were visiting so I didn't have the entire weekend to myself. Nevertheless, I did finish some things, my engine looks more like an engine now, both heads are assembled and installed, upper timing covers are installed, I've attempted to set the timing on the left side, it is set, but I'm not 100% satisfied with it (there is a small caveat that I didn't know about), and I'll slightly readjust it next time I'm at it. But in the process I've learned how to set the timing correctly and feel pretty confident that I should be able to set it very accurately with my tool.

This actually is a multi-project project as you know as I'm fixing multiple things at the same time. One of the other things I'm doing is replacing my 4-spoke the steering wheel with the 3-spoke M-style one, which was very difficult to find (mine is a single stage and most that are on sale are dual stage). The "new" wheel is here and I'm in the process of giving it a facelift with a wash and control button face plate painting (it is peeling and looking sad).

I'm also already getting parts for my next project - swapping my drive shaft/differential/axles for M5 counterparts. I've been thinking about it for a while and it happened to come across this guy who's local to me and who was selling his M5 setup at a good price, so I couldn't pass it up. The differential is in very good shape and has less miles than my original one. So I'm looking forward to that

I have a dilemma that I thought I had an answer to, but not so sure anymore. When I was cleaning my fuel injectors, one of the plastic tabs at the tip of the injector broke off... Don't know how important that is, theoretically it might affect the spray pattern. I've found this guy "Mr Injector" who seems to be known in this field for selling injector rebuilding kits and I got a kit from him for $28 which contains a set of 9 O-rings, 9 fuel filters, 9 spacers and 9 plastic injector caps. Seemed like a good deal and a solution to the problem, but after looking at the caps, they aren't out of the best quality mold so there are some spill overs of plastic in some places. I'll try to clean them up by cutting the excess material, but not sure how it will turn out. Do you guys have any suggestions?

I'll post some pics later.

Last edited by Flug540; 05-17-2011 at 02:30 PM.
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  #241  
Old 05-17-2011, 03:40 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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Thanks for the update, Alex. Without seeing the injector tip in question, if it only involves trimming plastic flashing around the mold lines, an X-acto knife or Dremel with a conical burr or rotary cutter on it should do the job.

So you're installing an M-5 differential? I've got to hand it to you Alex. You don't lack for ambition. Will you have to re-calibrate your speedometer or any of the electronics? If you'd like a hand hefting the new hardware into place, or dealing with exhaust pipes and drive shafts and such, I'd enjoy helping you out. Just drop me a PM.
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  #242  
Old 05-17-2011, 04:08 PM
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My suggestion on the fuel injector parts is simply to find another supplier. Dr Injector or try googling "witchunter fuel injector"....one of those places may be able to help you.
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  #243  
Old 05-18-2011, 12:57 AM
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Lol, the job list gets longer every day :-)
I quite fancy an M5 diff too! I'm not a fan of open diffs in powerful cars and was surprised that the 540 has one. A LSD makes much more sense to me and was a bit miffed that BMW didn't put one in as standard. It might be a bit of a handful in the wet though, with the electronics turned off :-) but good fun!
Is there one good injector tab in the new set? Could you use just that one on the affected injector?
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  #244  
Old 05-18-2011, 06:55 AM
franka franka is offline
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A LSD makes much more sense to me and was a bit miffed that BMW didn't put one in as standard.

The reason is cost. I would estimate that 99% of 540 buyers have no idea about limited slip diffs and are happy with their electronic system.
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  #245  
Old 05-18-2011, 06:56 AM
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  #246  
Old 05-18-2011, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540 M-Sport View Post
My suggestion on the fuel injector parts is simply to find another supplier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
...if it only involves trimming plastic flashing around the mold lines, an X-acto knife or Dremel with a conical burr or rotary cutter on it should do the job.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quackers View Post
Is there one good injector tab in the new set? Could you use just that one on the affected injector?
Thanks for the tips. I think I will indeed try to find another supplier. I could try and fix these, but it's not even close to the original quality. Looking at the caps closely, not only there is excess material along the mold lines, but there are also low spots, and high spots and it isn't even an exact copy...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
Will you have to re-calibrate your speedometer or any of the electronics? If you'd like a hand hefting the new hardware into place, or dealing with exhaust pipes and drive shafts and such, I'd enjoy helping you out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quackers View Post
Lol, the job list gets longer every day :-)
I quite fancy an M5 diff too! I'm not a fan of open diffs in powerful cars and was surprised that the 540 has one. A LSD makes much more sense to me and was a bit miffed that BMW didn't put one in as standard. It might be a bit of a handful in the wet though, with the electronics turned off :-) but good fun!
The speed sensors are on the wheels, so there's no need to recalibrate anything. Thanks for the offer of help, I may actually need it, I hear this diff alone is around 90lb And I imagine removing the entire exhaust could be tricky for one person.

LSD does make more sense to me too, looking forward to the conversion. I expect it to do several things for me: increase the gear ratio for more torque, open->lsd conversion and get the car ready for a supercharger some time in the future.
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  #247  
Old 05-18-2011, 08:44 AM
franka franka is offline
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and get the car ready for a supercharger some time in the future.
Great idea, that will also open the flood gates to many more posts. Stand back.
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  #248  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:34 AM
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The reason is cost. I would estimate that 99% of 540 buyers have no idea about limited slip diffs and are happy with their electronic system.
I'm sure you're right franka.
Unfortunately there is a huge trade-off using the electronic method - power is withdrawn from the back wheels! A big minus imho.
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  #249  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:37 AM
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I'm sure you're right franka.
Unfortunately there is a huge trade-off using the electronic method - power is withdrawn from the back wheels! A big minus imho.
I'm not exactly sure how it works by default. Does it detect the difference in speed between the two wheels and drops the RPM?
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  #250  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:47 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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I'm not exactly sure how it works by default. Does it detect the difference in speed between the two wheels and drops the RPM?
Good question. I always assumed that it applies the ABS to the wheel that's slipping.

Okay, I just looked it up. Here's a great video explanation.
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