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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #251  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:49 AM
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The electronics do, yes. No good for drifting then :-) Whereas a LSD is just the ticket :-) Quite dodgy in the wet though, an LSD :-)
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  #252  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
Here's a great video explanation.
Great video, thanks!
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  #253  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:53 AM
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The electronics do, yes. No good for drifting then :-) Whereas a LSD is just the ticket :-) Quite dodgy in the wet though, an LSD :-)
Right I always keep DSC off though, but suspect it isn't entirely off even if it says it is - I did see it blink a couple of times.
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  #254  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:58 AM
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You're in for some fun :-)
An LSD with both back wheels spinning, in the wet, comes round awful fast! LoL.
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  #255  
Old 05-18-2011, 02:43 PM
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After some searching I've found this PDF (attached). Here's one interesting paragraph from it:
When the vehicle engine is shut down some of the intake valves will naturally be left open. This allows the heat inside the cylinder to rise past the intake valve to the injector area. There may still be some residue of fuel on the pintle tip of the injector, which protrudes from the end of the injector. The heat begins to bake this residue of fuel onto the injector pintle. This leads to a buildup over time that causes poor fuel spray, lean mixtures, poor driveability and high emissions.

A pintle cap has been used by some manufacturers to try to reduce the deposits on these style injectors. These pintle caps have many different designs.
From this perspective the fins on the caps are probably there to help draw the fuel residue away from the tip of the injector and onto the fins when the engine is shut down. If that's the case, it probably isn't terribly critical to fix the single broken fin. I'll see if I can find the same used injectors on eBay cheap and swap this cap. If not, I'll probably just leave it the way it is.

Attached also is what my broken cap looks like vs. the new caps.
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Last edited by Flug540; 05-18-2011 at 03:57 PM.
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  #256  
Old 05-18-2011, 03:25 PM
franka franka is offline
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Great attachment.
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  #257  
Old 05-18-2011, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540alex View Post
There may still be some residue of fuel on the pintle tip of the injector, which protrudes from the end of the injector. The heat begins to bake this residue of fuel onto the injector pintle. This leads to a buildup over time that causes poor fuel spray, lean mixtures, poor driveability and high emissions..

Another good reason to use Techron.
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  #258  
Old 05-18-2011, 03:53 PM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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techron... every few months...

don't kid yourself tho... she don't require premium assuming you haven't done any internals
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  #259  
Old 05-18-2011, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Burning2nd View Post
techron... every few months...

don't kid yourself tho... she don't require premium assuming you haven't done any internals
I can feel the diff between mid grade and top grade, but then I have stage 2 Dinan.

I filled it up just last week, with top grade, to check the mileage. I've never checked mileage, and can't recall when the last time was that I filled it.

I usually go 1/2 tank to keep the weight down. Some may think that is strange but I can feel the difference.
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  #260  
Old 05-19-2011, 01:56 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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stage 2 Dinan.
point n case
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  #261  
Old 05-22-2011, 07:59 AM
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I got several surprises yesterday... I started off by making the chain tensioner tool (replaces tools 00 9 250 and 11 3 390). It was my first welding project, so don't judge too harsh Basically it's a wide and thick steel washer welded to an M10 nut and then welded to a steel handle and I'm using my old head bolt. The rope is there to make sure the tool does not fall inside the engine, but of course the first time I tried to fit it, it ended up doing exactly that so I had some fun fishing time. In the end the tool worked out pretty well and welding was a lot of fun. Then I proceeded to setting the final timing when one of the upper plastic chain guides disintegrated on me... Right, so now I ordered all four new guides for the next weekend.

Then I thought I'll install the exhaust manifolds next... I should have read the installation procedure waaay before I started because it specifies using all new nuts... Oh well, ordered that too. I first called a local dealer and they actually had them, but at $5.40 per nut as opposed to $1.84 online and I needed 20 of them.

In the process of lifting the engine for the manifold install I've also found that the driver side engine mount has a large crack... Ordered that too... The passenger side is in the plain view and looks fine so I assumed the other one should be fine too... Wrong. I just read this nice DIY a few days back E39 Motor and Transmission Mounts, the author also had the same scenario, passenger side OK and the driver side messed up, maybe that's how it usually is. I decided not to risk it and ordered the new transmission mounts too.

The plan for today is to finish reinsulating my knock sensors and the rest of the engine harness. The insulation is failing badly everywhere...
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Last edited by Flug540; 05-22-2011 at 08:04 AM.
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  #262  
Old 05-22-2011, 11:12 AM
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Lol, I suppose that's the nature of the beast :-)
Thanks for the update! Curious about the necessity for new nuts for the exhaust manifold though. Don't they have spring washers? Haven't looked at mine so don't know.
Not too far to go though :-)
You'll soon be hearing the burble of a big V8 I'm sure.
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  #263  
Old 05-22-2011, 12:01 PM
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Wow, Alex. I guess it's good that you discovered the issues before you got everything buttoned back up. It makes me wonder about my chain rail guides, with 156,000 miles. To install the guides, you just have to take off the valve covers and upper and lower timing chain covers, right?
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  #264  
Old 05-22-2011, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
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Curious about the necessity for new nuts for the exhaust manifold though. Don't they have spring washers?
These nuts are actually quite fancy if you look at them closer. They don't have washers in the usual sense, the "washers" are molded into the nut so that it's one piece copper nut with a large inside thread that has a steel thread (kind of a steel spiral) screwed in to create the final inside diameter. If you look closely at the screwed in steel thread, you'll see that it's not perfectly round all the way through. In a few places the thread becomes a straight line (kind of a chord in a circle if you remember geometry class ). I think these straightened parts of the inside thread prevent the nuts from coming off. I had to buy two replacement nuts and after I examined yesterday the new and the old ones it became apparent that these straightened areas are less noticeable (more rounded) in the old nuts as compared to the new ones, so the replacement recommendation makes sense. Sorry, it's hard to explain

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdmac View Post
Wow, Alex. I guess it's good that you discovered the issues before you got everything buttoned back up. It makes me wonder about my chain rail guides, with 156,000 miles. To install the guides, you just have to take off the valve covers and upper and lower timing chain covers, right?
I know, it is better to find these things at this stage rather then much later.

You don't have to remove the timing covers, unless you want to service them as well ("while you are there" ). You do have to remove the chain tensioners and all sprockets and reset the timing after you are done. And yours also has VANOS, I believe, which could also be in the way and realigned later, that I'm not sure about.

Last edited by Flug540; 05-22-2011 at 12:28 PM.
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  #265  
Old 05-22-2011, 10:23 PM
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Thanks Alex, it sounds like the threads deform as they are tightened, locking themselves in there. I'll have a closer look at mine :-)
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  #266  
Old 05-31-2011, 07:31 AM
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Thanks Alex, it sounds like the threads deform as they are tightened, locking themselves in there. I'll have a closer look at mine :-)
Yes, they are self locking. Here are a couple of photos:
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  #267  
Old 05-31-2011, 08:36 AM
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I looove long weekends, finally got some nice progress going. Parts ready to go in:



Over the weekend finished rebuilding and installed my knock sensors. The original insulation was just beginning to conduct slightly, but I'm sure if you bend the cable and get "lucky" you'd get a real short. The old inner insulation is held in place only by the outer shell and completely disintegrates when the shell is pulled:



New insulation is on; JB Weld curing:



And here's what they look like now:





Installed and connected to the front exhaust the exhaust manifolds. This turned out not as bad as I thought it would be. I followed the procedure in TIS and had no issues at all apart from me goofing up at one point. I first installed the left side, which is the hardest because of fitment issues due to the steering box in the way. You first install and torque the back manifold then the front one. I then tried to test fit the front exhaust pipe to the manifolds and found it a bit challenging I also noticed that before the manifolds are torqued, they have some play in them so I decided on the right side I won't torque the manifolds all the way allowing for some play in them, then fit the exhaust pipe and then torque everything together... Turns out one of the front manifold nuts gets blocked from direct wrench access by the back manifold so there is no direct way to use a torque wrench on it. I decided to proceed ahead and figure out a way to tighten the last nut later. There are a couple of options there. A regular hex wrench does fit the nut fine so I could tighten it by hand or I could figure out a side extension for the torque wrench somehow. I'll stop by Harbor Freight today and see what they have.

I have to say that I'm very impressed with the way the exhaust manifolds are designed. On either side they won't go straight in, there are too many objects on the way, especially on the drivers side, but instead they are literally screwed in like a giant bolt in a spiral fashion. This way they go in with no force at all but with just a few millimeters of clearance in some places!







I also replaced my motor mounts, the right one is still OK, but the left one had a large crack almost all the way around and was leaking fluid:





Then I took apart transmission mount bracket to find that my original mounts are still fine so I left them alone.

Then I fitted new upper chain guides and reset the timing, installed the new chain tensioner. I thought my original was OK, but after comparing the two you can clearly see that the new one is a lot stronger.

I also fitted the coolant pipes, the water manifold with its rubber pipes, oil rails for the cams, oil deepstick, oil pan with its new gasket and cam position sensor. It's looking even more like an engine now:





Next I want to finish the cooling system and pressure test it. I can't stop thinking about a possible coolant/oil leak in the head, I really hope it all sealed well. But thinking back I don't know what I could have done differently so hopefully there will be no issues .
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  #268  
Old 05-31-2011, 11:30 AM
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Looking really good dude! Beautiful :-)
Roll on testing day!
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  #269  
Old 05-31-2011, 11:40 AM
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Looking really good dude! Beautiful :-)
Roll on testing day!
Thanks!

On Sunday I went to a local BMW dealer to see what they have in stock. There was this beautiful dark blue 2011 550i 6-speed. I read the sticker and it says it has a twin-turbo 4.4L V8 and I thought to myself - that's just like mine minus the turbo, sooooo... if I supercharge it, it won't be too far apart from this new one and although I do like the new styling (didn't really care for the previous Bangled generation), I'm still in love with the timeless E39, so my car is a keeper, and holding that thought went back home turning wrenches
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  #270  
Old 05-31-2011, 11:46 AM
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OMG, and that was in a main dealer's showroom?
I wonder who did the conversion. What a job that must have been. I wonder if they did other engine mods at the same time (like dropping the compression ratio). If they didn't it'll fly! But maybe not for too long!
Better off with yours :-)
wrench, wrench, wrench. Keep going.
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  #271  
Old 05-31-2011, 12:10 PM
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I wonder who did the conversion.
What do you mean? That's how they are now from the factory, no conversion.
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  #272  
Old 05-31-2011, 12:13 PM
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Really? I've not heard of anything like that here (UK)!
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  #273  
Old 05-31-2011, 12:16 PM
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Really? I've not heard of anything like that here (UK)!
Here: 550i Sedan

Looking at the numbers, it's "only" 400hp, a supercharger gives you a bit more than that.

Last edited by Flug540; 05-31-2011 at 12:18 PM.
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  #274  
Old 05-31-2011, 12:23 PM
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Interesting thanks. It's interesting that they used the 4.4L motor and not the 4.9
It's not hugely powerful nowadays for such a motor (the M5 (V10) should walk all over it), but I wouldn't object to having one :-)
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  #275  
Old 06-01-2011, 07:25 AM
franka franka is offline
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Your headers look new. No rust or heat discoloration.
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