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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-02-2011, 02:08 PM
mr boomerang mr boomerang is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 e39 528i///M package
Exclamation climate control and other electronics not working after collision center "repaired"

alright, so quick rundown of the problem...my precious e39 was rear ended on the freeway by some lady, her insurance took full liability for it and got my bumper replaced at a collision center, i got my car back, and my climate controls, radio, and rear right window didnt work...i talked to the guy that was in charge of fixing my car and he said he jumped my car SIX times in a row because the battery kept dying when they were fixing my car...now, im no specialist but im prety sure that's not good...especially on a bmw where the electrical system is connected to everything...anyways, the collision center REFUSES to take responsibility for the damage unless i get my car diagnosed at a BMW dealership at MY expense...the insurance is also backing this up...basically, what i want to know is, can repeatedly jump starting an e39 cause the radio to blow, the climate control to not work, and blow the window motor? or am i going to go spend $200 to get my car diagnosed and find out i was just being ignorant and that this was all just a coincedence and im out of 2 bills?? if anyone could PLEASE help me out on this i'd GREATLY appreciate it...also if there's any clarification needed just post the question and i will get back to it IMMEDIATELY )) thank you!!!!!!

Last edited by mr boomerang; 03-02-2011 at 02:09 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2011, 02:16 PM
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doru doru is offline
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There might be some other stuff that's blown using an improper jump starting procedure on a e39.
If the car is jumped wrongly, the electrical surge CAN rend even the instrument cluster inoperative or it will work incorrect. You, my friend make sure to check ALL the electronic componenets of the car, not only the HVAC and radio. Check and see if the speedometer, fuel gauge, tach etc is working correctly. Check if your lights are working correctly (LCM module). If you have rainsensing wipers, make sure they work. Check the sunroof etc.
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2011, 02:19 PM
mr boomerang mr boomerang is offline
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everything else seems to be working fine...it's just the climate control, radio (which was a blown fuse), and my rear window motor...as far as i know everything else is working correctly...im just pissed they jumped my car multiple times instead of doing it the right way and taking the battery out and doing a trickle charge...anyway, so what's the probability that that's what caused it?? do you suggest taking it to the dealer and shelling out $200 to get an official diagnosis to give to the insurance company?? thanks for your help
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  #4  
Old 03-02-2011, 03:06 PM
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doru doru is offline
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Is the HVAC unit (below the radio) blown, as in no heat, no cold? If yes, I am not sure what knid of diagnostic the dealer can do - they will most likely tell you the unit is fried and it cost this much to replace.
As for the rear door actuator - I don't think it has anything to do with jumping the car.
Those things go bad. I would suspect the cabling, not the motor itself. This is a relative easy fix, and not very expensive (if you don't change the motor, only the mechanical part which usually goes gangbusters)
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Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
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  #5  
Old 03-02-2011, 03:13 PM
mr boomerang mr boomerang is offline
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the climate control wont even turn on!! so i cant control what type of air i get...and it's not the actuator that's not working, it's the window motor...i just replaced the regulators not too long ago and they were working fine until i got it back from the collision center...i know BMW will probably tell me it's fried but, my main concern is, will they tell me it's fried because of the multiple improper jumps (in which case the insurance company will cover it) or will they tell me it's just because?? any input is appreciated
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  #6  
Old 03-02-2011, 05:11 PM
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WagonTheDog WagonTheDog is offline
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WHY didn't you take your car to an authorized BMW repair center, ESPECIALLY when it's on the other guys dime??? Don't feel too bad, I made the same mistake once, and this is how I handled it.

First of all, you should be dealing with the insurance company on this, not the repair shop... THEY are the ones who are ultimately, financially responsible for returning your car to you in as close to "pre-accident" condition as possible...

With that it mind, I would (did) inform (nicely, but FIRMLY) the insurance company that:

"Item "X" was intact, and 100% functional PRIOR to the accident. Upon "completion" of repairs, item "X" is no longer functioning, so I can only conclude that either A) The shop missed something and repairs are incomplete, or B) Somehow, during the course of repairs, shop personnel created a new problem. Either way, my car is not right, and had your insured not hit me, I would not be having this problem.

If you chose the shop, they may try to use that fact against you... Don't allow yourself to be distracted... The bottom line is, their insured hit your car and it is for them to rectify the situation. If this means satisfying you, and then pursuing the shop as a separate matter to recoup any repair costs incurred as a result of collision center negligence, so be it... That's their problem, your problem is, your car isn't right...

You then advise them they need to make whatever arrangements necessary to complete repairs to your vehicle, or you will simply turn the matter over to your lawyer. The important thing is to deliver that last bit of information with same amount of emotional investment as if you were telling them you're going into the next room to feed your fish... If they believe you're serious, they'll usually comply. Insurance companies know that in rear-end collisions, the involvement of a lawyer can escalate the matter to one of personal injury, and most likely is going to cost them more money than fixing your car no matter what...
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Last edited by WagonTheDog; 03-02-2011 at 05:15 PM. Reason: I'm anal about spelling
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  #7  
Old 03-02-2011, 06:56 PM
mr boomerang mr boomerang is offline
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i am dealing with the insurance company directly with the issue and they are the ones that are holding me accountable for the diagnosis cost unless it is revealed that it is their collision center's fault, in which case they will reimburse me...but still, i shouldnt have to pay out of pocket for something like that...and they gave me the option of going to any repair shop i wanted but if i went to a Mercury approved collision center the repair is backed by a lifetime guarantee...it just so happened that the shop i was going to go to in the first place was a shop they recommended...

either way something THEY did caused my car to be returned to me in poor condition, i just need input and suggestions as to whether or not i should pay the diagnosis fee up front and pray that it comes back to show that it was their fault so i can be reimbursed, and if anyone has had any experience with jumping cars and if it could cause what i described..

thank you VERY much for your info tho, i plan on contacting my lawyer if they dont make this right...it was a LEGITIMATE shop...not a Jose and Manuel "out-of-their-garage" collision center
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  #8  
Old 03-02-2011, 09:14 PM
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WagonTheDog WagonTheDog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr boomerang View Post
"...it just so happened that the shop i was going to go to in the first place was a shop they recommended...
Working with a shop they recommend could potentially work against you... Call me cynical (and a host of other things), but my experience with insurance companies is, they want the cheapest way out possible first, and the satisfaction of an "injured" e39-o-phile second. They will cut corners on parts and opt for used/non-OEM new replacement parts where ever they can get away with it, then when you ask for the documentation on all the replacement parts for your own warranty records, they'll tell you, "Just come back to us if you have a problem..."

Of course, all that is moot at this point... Again, at the end of the day, your problem was created by their insured, and now possibly exacerbated by a shop whose repair work they expressly stand behind... Your car is NOT "fixed" by any sane interpretation of the word, anything else is just obfuscation...
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  #9  
Old 03-03-2011, 07:36 AM
mr boomerang mr boomerang is offline
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i love the big words haha...thank you...i am taking care of this issue TODAY!!
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  #10  
Old 03-03-2011, 07:43 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr boomerang View Post
(which was a blown fuse)
Why did the fuse blow? Too much current is the answer.

Jumping the car ten thousand times, in and of itself, won't destroy things. And it won't blow a fuse (normally). The voltage spikes aren't wonderful for the electronics; but we've all jumped our cars numerous times and our climate control system is still working just fine.

My 120 amp Bosch alternator fried itself to death (all three tests came back as bad), and I didn't blow a single fuse in the car, for example.

Wanna know what I think?

Methinks either something shorted during the accident (which is highly likely) or the mechanics shorted something while working on the vehicle (hence the blown fuse) or something else was temporarily mis-wired (hence the dead batteries from severe drain, assuming the battery is known good otherwise) by the accident or by the mechanic. It's pretty easy to envision this happening (at least it is for me to envision it).

However, PROVING that scenario is a whole 'nuther story altogether.

Last edited by bluebee; 03-03-2011 at 07:45 AM.
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  #11  
Old 03-03-2011, 07:47 AM
mr boomerang mr boomerang is offline
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i just dont know anything else that they could have done that would cause all of this to happen besides the battery jumping :/ everything was working JUST fine before it got to their shop
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