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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 03-06-2011, 08:51 AM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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Mechanic-Part 2

NOW a new problem!! Remember my mechanic put in new hoses and a new radiator fan and 2 weeks later my car overheated and the new fan he put in was slicing away at the new top hose causing antifreeze to pour out? Got it towed and the mechanic put in a new top hose and tied it back. Now after getting the car back after he tied the new hose back away from the fan, the temp gauge is now going past the 3/4 mark after driving it for 10 minutes. I told him I don't feel I owe him the $60 for the newest hose he put in when I called him up and told him about the heating problem and he said 'don't worry about the $60 if I owe U or U owe me, what's important is to get the car towed in, don't drive it and lets see what the problem is so I did that. Yesterday after working on it he said that he thinks it's the fan clutch, not sure, still checking it out. And we got into him thinking that I thought he did something wrong when he put the hoses and fan in. I said it just seems to me that I had the old hoses and fan in there for 10 years and no problems and as soon as I had you put in new hoses and fan, I'm experiencing problems now. When you put in the first new hose before it was sliced up the water temp. was below 1/2 on the gauge and as soon as you put in the newest top hose and tied it back the temp gauge is running hot. He said it's an old car and he thinks it's not the problem with the new hose but the fan clutch but as I mentioned b4, he's not sure yet?! Am I wrong here, in thinking the problems are coming from him putting in the new hoses and fan maybe wrong? How do I know if it is the fan clutch like he is thinks?!! Don't get me wrong I like the mechanic, he's a nice person who cares about the cars he fixes but still I'm experiencing problems now when for 10 years with the old hoses and radiator fan, I didn't!
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  #2  
Old 03-06-2011, 09:16 AM
SWISS SWISS is offline
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So how long DO you think a rubber hose and fan clutch should last? 15,20? 35,100 years?
Go read a service interval change on the parts on your car then come back after you apologize to your mechanic.

srsly WTF
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Last edited by SWISS; 03-06-2011 at 09:17 AM.
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  #3  
Old 03-06-2011, 09:55 AM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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My Point was, I was NOT having ANY problems BEFORE I had new hoses and fan put in! The old hoses and fan were NOT giving me ANY problems with my car, whatsoever! My car was running great! I just had a feeling that they should be changed- not because they were giving me problems as I mentioned! My questions in my post were why am I having problems NOW right after the new parts were installed (doesn't make sense to have new service, pay $400 and start right away to have problems the car NEVER did before!? By the way the old radiator fan and hoses did last 15 years that I know of since I owned the car since 1996, that is, all except one hose, that I had put in, that broke about 10 years ago! My philosophy up until a month ago (which appears 2 me,I should have stayed with!) was if it's not broken don't fix it. Not because it's a cute saying that is mentioned a lot, but because I have discovered in the experiences of my life that it is true and wise, anyway for me it is. Anyhow as long as we are on this side of the ground today then all IS good and I shouldn't be fretting about a car. Thanks for the reply SWISS and I'll get a service interval change manual (hopefully this great site has one) and I'll listen to your recommendation and study up on it!
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  #4  
Old 03-06-2011, 10:37 AM
7pilot 7pilot is offline
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I don't believe that a failed clutch fan is going to result in big temperature increases if the cooling system is in good shape..
Euro market E30 M3s don't have mechanical fans, plus many E36 M3 owners delete the fan and added a lower temp Tstat and fan switch.

Here are a couple of scenarios.
1,Car with good working cooling system, and auxillary fan, but bad mechanical fan clutch.
The temps will rise when the car is stationary, until the aux fan switch kicks in.
When the car is in motion, temps are normal.
2, Car as above, but with both fans AWOL.
Car will overheat when stationary. It will run ok to warmish when in motion.

I think your car may still have air in the cooling system.
It is possible that the thermostat is stuck closed or nearly closed.
Another possibility is that the headgasket is leaking.
I would try to bleed the system carefully. The top radiator hose is a likely air trap, to squeeze this hose frequently to get the coolant moving through it.
While bleeding the system do not allow the gauge to get near the red zone.

m
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  #5  
Old 03-06-2011, 11:41 AM
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fcsteve fcsteve is offline
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the old hose failure caused by him .. could have blown the headgasket or screwed up a bunch of other parts which is why it now overheats after 10 mins of running.

doesnt matter how "nice" he seems, if he doesnt know what he is doing. most mechanics "act" nice. your putting money in their pocket .. why would they act like a dick ?

old parts do go bad, fact of life. but if everything was fine before he screwed up then its not the parts that just suddenly became faulty. he screwed stuff up.

if you insist on staying with the same mechanic who clearly doesnt know what he is doing then you will continue to pay for it. but dont take the smile on his face and the nice act as a sign that he isnt screwing you over and that he does know what he is talking about.
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  #6  
Old 03-06-2011, 11:43 AM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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Wow 7Pilot my car had done that for years now before just recently getting the new hoses and fan. My car is now going up to 3/4 hot after 10 minutes and moving down a little when it motion. It has risen over 1/2 before the service of new hoses and fan but not anywhere to a stationary 3/4 and going for the red when stationary and going down a little when moving as it is now! I also have noticed that if I drive it for 15 minutes, the temp. gauge starts out getting to the half way point faster then it ever did before and then i shut it off and go do whatever, come back 10 minutes later, start it up the temp. gauge immediately goes up to above the 1/2 way point and starts getting hotter immediately to 3/4 hot and above. I'm going to print your advice out and take it to my mechanic! Thanks 7Pilot for your reply!! If you don't hear from me then my mechanic got angry for showing him your advise and hung me from the newest BMW Billboard ad!
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2011, 11:53 AM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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That's exactly How I feel about it fcsteve and am trying to get the mechanic to be aware of exactly that and come to terms with it! "but if everything was fine before he screwed up then its not the parts that just suddenly became faulty. he screwed stuff up." By the way I clicked on your link, your car is looking great! I'm glad you posted the photos! Your post on the tool tray let me see what few tools I'm missing also! Thanks for your reply!
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  #8  
Old 03-06-2011, 02:33 PM
7pilot 7pilot is offline
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I'm only offering remote opinion.


How old is the water pump?


m
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  #9  
Old 03-06-2011, 04:07 PM
03bmw525i 03bmw525i is offline
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+1 air in system. Also, check coolant temp sensor.
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  #10  
Old 03-06-2011, 04:29 PM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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Good question 7Pilot, I'm going to look up my service records. Got 2 be less then 10,000 miles I imagine. I didn't drive this car for 3 years, just had it sitting till November 09 then started driving it again. At that time that I started to drive it again I had to put in a whole new front end, new starter and neurtral safety switch, new brakes all around, tune-up, all done in the last 10,000 miles and of course recently the new hoses, radiator fan and new reservoir container. the Thermostat has to be about 15000 miles ago. This is all I could remember off the top of my head, the rest of the service records are in my glove compartment that has broken shut in the last month and I don't know how to open it. Will have to buy a new glove box lock handle, etc. Thanks for your reply 7Pilot!!

Last edited by Youngblood; 03-06-2011 at 04:36 PM.
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  #11  
Old 03-06-2011, 04:35 PM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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03bmw525i, Thanks for the insights on my car. I'll have the coolant temp. sensor checked out and air in the system.
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  #12  
Old 03-06-2011, 07:43 PM
SWISS SWISS is offline
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I would suggest getting with a local group and get some help with DIY. $400 for belts and hoses is crazy.
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  #13  
Old 03-06-2011, 09:37 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWISS View Post
I would suggest getting with a local group and get some help with DIY. $400 for belts and hoses is crazy.
+1. thats what i spent on my tbelt and waterpump.
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  #14  
Old 03-07-2011, 03:52 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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I'm glad I don't fix peoples cars for a living anymore, this is a prime example of what u deal with as a professional mechanic

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Old 03-07-2011, 06:05 AM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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@SWISS, great suggestion about getting w/ a local group and DIY! Do you know of any groups in Southern CA. or how I can find them myself? By the way, I spent $400 on all new hoses, front brake, new radiator fan and a new reservoir. @ Burning2nd, If a mechanic works on my car and I pay him and he didn't obviously put in the hose and radiator fan correctly and 2 weeks after he put it in I'm stranded because the new radiator fan had cut into the new hose and the car is now leaking antifreeze and is overheating and now I have to spring for a tow job and the mechanic charges you another $60 to put in a new hose AGAIN! And after putting in the new hose he now ties it back away from the fan instead of cutting the hose to fit and the water temp. is now getting hotter then it ever was in the life of the car!! What, you don't think the customer who just spent $400 on his car doesn't have a right to question the mechanics original work!? Well I'm sure as hell going to question his work!
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:10 AM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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@SWISS I did a google search to try to find a DIY local group in L.A. and couldn't find one unfortunately so IF you know of any in Southern California please let me know. In the meantime how do you find a school/mechanic shop etc. for someone who wants to learn how to work on their own BMW. Some course at night/weekends since I have a day job, does anyone know? Thanks for all the help everyone!!!
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:19 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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@SWISS I did a google search to try to find a DIY local group in L.A. and couldn't find one unfortunately so IF you know of any in Southern California please let me know. In the meantime how do you find a school/mechanic shop etc. for someone who wants to learn how to work on their own BMW. Some course at night/weekends since I have a day job, does anyone know? Thanks for all the help everyone!!!
colleges. community or regular 4 year. also try searching for lincoln, uti, and thats really bout it. but remember, when you go the school route, they are noobs who have lil to no knowledge on german vehicles. good part, they dont charge must labor wise
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:05 PM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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Unhappy Mechanic-Part 2

Thanks Downhiller, I'll be looking into it 4 sure! I towed my car to the shop on Saturday because of the overheating and as of Saturday night the mechanic thought it might be the fan clutch but wasn't sure! I haven't heard from him yet today on what's wrong with it.
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Old 03-07-2011, 07:10 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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if he still thinks its the fan clutch, then you should pick it up and take it somewhere else
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:01 AM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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Mechanic-Part 2

@downhiller, That's what he told me yesterday, that it was the fan clutch and charged me $60.00! I haven't picked it up yet but will later today. I feel like I'm being taken for a ride with this mechanic! I have to learn how to fix the car myself, no 2 ways about it! Thanks downhiller for all the help!
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  #21  
Old 03-08-2011, 11:22 AM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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WOW downhiller I just looked at your garage and your car has 313,000 miles on it and looks amazing! Mine has 190,000 miles on it and I know there's still a lot of life in it and many more miles to enjoy driving it! Seeing your car with 313,000 miles and how great it looks just confirms my wishes for my car!! Thanks for posting the photo!!
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Old 03-08-2011, 04:45 PM
Youngblood Youngblood is offline
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So I picked up my car today AGAIN from the mechanics and he said the problem of the heating was I needed a new fan clutch. I drove it home and it was slowly going up to 1/2 on the temp. gauge then hit the freeway and temp went down to 1/4 Temp. got off the freeway, traffic and traffic lights for about 6 blocks. stopped at a smoke store, picked up a carton of smokes for my friend who drove me the shop to pick up my car. Temp. at that time was at 1/2. Got the smokes, 'Here we go!' started up the car's temp. went to 1/2 immediately, drove 4 blocks and was up to 3/4 and stayed there till I got home, WTF!!! Called the mechanic he asked me to bring it back tomorrow. Thoughts now of some of the great comments here concerning my issues, 'that he shouldn't have tied the top hose back and away from the radiator. He should have cut the hose on the t-side to fit instead' (learned that from one of the comments here, Thank again! ) But since it was already clamped into place and THEN pulled back to be tied down, could the pulling back of the hose to tie it down, loosened the tightness near the clamp letting air get into the system now? Another comment I received is that I could have cooked something in the engine when the hose broke' Could me driving it after the new hose split. I drove it about 10 minutes because I was stranded. Before driving though I lifted the hood checking the reservoir, lower but not by much, but I had a gallon of water in the car so I filled it up and the Temp gauge was at 1/2 so I drove it for 10 minutes till the coolant roof light came on. I wonder if that could that have damaged any parts on the engine where I am now experiencing my cars' engine, now getting hotter? And if I did damage the engine, is then the mechanic held responsible because of his putting in a new hose too close to the new radiator fan he just installed causing it to split the hose while I was driving it? Or is all this happening because once I got off the freeway today there was a homeless man and I only gave him a quarter instead of a dollar?
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  #23  
Old 03-08-2011, 04:52 PM
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eieio4tn eieio4tn is offline
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you'going to have to move on to another mechanic dude. eat the $60, and call it a learning experience. small claims will not do much good i believe.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:36 PM
SWISS SWISS is offline
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Holy crap. You REALLY have no idea wtf is going on here. The upper bypass hose getting clipped by the fan is an issue with all e30's Every one I have ever seen had a zip tie to the engine lift hole, or was shaved by the fan. I don't know what has you thinking the hose should be trimmed and not tied back, or that the minute amount of tension of the zip tie is going to move the hose end held be a steel clamp. At any rate 2 things have been learned here.
A. You don't know jack about cars.
B. You probably pissed off the mechanic by insulting him. No one trained in a field likes some know it all off the street try to tell them they don't know what they are doing. By your posts here I have deduced you mechanical prowess. On a 1-10 you make a solid 0

The hose getting cut and your M20 going to the 3/4 mark is not going to hurt that engine. It is likely the car needed an entire cooling system overhaul, you bought a hose and a fan clutch. If the HG blew or other damage it is more due to an old tired abused engine, not getting hot one time for 5 minutes.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:57 PM
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eieio4tn eieio4tn is offline
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Amen
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