Throwout bearing just went out. How difficult is it to replace?

Well my throwout bearing has been whining for a little less then a week and it just went out completely. Won't go into gear while started, can put it in gear push clutch in and start it but after a few seconds the clutch grabs and stalls. How difficult of a job is this? What all should I replace?

You will have to drop transmission. Change everyting the clutch pressure plant throw out bearing and have flywheel refaced

If you have a hydraulic clutch refurbish the master and slave cylinders too.

My car has 220k miles on it give or take..what absolutely needs replacing? I see Pelican Parts has a clutch kit with

Three piece Sachs clutch kit
New bolts for flywheel* and clutch pressure plate
New exhaust gaskets
New crankshaft rear seal (aka flywheel seal)*
New transmission Input Shaft seal
New pilot bearing
New release bearing spring clip
New clutch pivot pin
New selector rod seal
New slave cylinder

Is any of this overkill? The $430 price tag makes me cringe though considering I just dropped $95 to tow it home. Think I read that I'll also need a clutch alignment tool and a pilot bearing puller is that all?

EDIT: Is this the correct parts? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...733&cc=1434736 looks like its the clutch, pressure plate, line up tool and TOB.

people are saying to change the clutch and pressure plate and resurfacing the flywheel because of where you are. its a time consuming procedure to drop the transmission, so it makes sence to replace the clutch and pressure plate while you are in there.

Theoretically, the throwout bearing should have been replaced the last time it had a clutch change, so it failing could be a sign that it is on its way out. or prehaps the last person to service it didnt change the bearing.

Well I think the TOB went out due to my wife not removing her foot off the clutch and I'm not all sure what the original owner had serviced. What all should I replace? I know the clutch, pressure plate, TOB, and the pilot bearing are top on that list.

Originally Posted by CJ74753

My car has 220k miles on it give or take..what absolutely needs replacing? I see Pelican Parts has a clutch kit with

Three piece Sachs clutch kit
New bolts for flywheel* and clutch pressure plate
New exhaust gaskets
New crankshaft rear seal (aka flywheel seal)*
New transmission Input Shaft seal
New pilot bearing
New release bearing spring clip
New clutch pivot pin
New selector rod seal
New slave cylinder

Is any of this overkill? The $430 price tag makes me cringe though considering I just dropped $95 to tow it home. Think I read that I'll also need a clutch alignment tool and a pilot bearing puller is that all?

EDIT: Is this the correct parts? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...733&cc=1434736 looks like its the clutch, pressure plate, line up tool and TOB.

the truth be told yes everything on the list should be changed if you want to do the job right but if funds are tight then just replace what shows wear or are high wear items. new flwheel and clutch bolts put at the bottom of list as the pivot pin just check for wear. seals the same thing if they are not leaking you can chance it same as the slave cylinder. you will have to make a judgement call.

post pics of the parts and i am sure you will get feedback on them

Originally Posted by cutter67

the truth be told yes everything on the list should be changed if you want to do the job right but if funds are tight then just replace what shows wear or are high wear items. new flwheel and clutch bolts put at the bottom of list as the pivot pin just check for wear. seals the same thing if they are not leaking you can chance it same as the slave cylinder. you will have to make a judgement call.

post pics of the parts and i am sure you will get feedback on them

Okay well hopefully I'll get off work early today and can start tearing it apart and will try to post pictures. What all should I snap pics of? Thanks again

take pictures of everything the whole ordeal i always like looking at pics

1) Take pictures of everything so you can see where it goes back. 2) Trade wife for a model with more car sympathy.

Originally Posted by BMWFatherFigure

1) Take pictures of everything so you can see where it goes back. 2) Trade wife for a model with more car sympathy. 3) Take pictures of new model wife

fixed.

Is this piece by the driveshaft
supposed to look like this? About to try to remove the exhaust, and just noticed this.

no the cracks are bad didnt see them till i enlarged picture time to replace dampner..... i have my popcorn ready this is going to get interesting

Out of curiosity how much does the e34s transmission weigh? Just curious since I don't have a transmission jack

you will need a friend then for sure. you do have a hyd floorjack right..

Originally Posted by cutter67

you will need a friend then for sure. you do have a hyd floorjack right..

Nope...a guy at work said he could probably get me a tranny jack..so this entire exhaust has to be pulled right?

one lesson i have learned over the years of doing work like this is remove things that are in your way completely some will say that you can wire tie things up out of your way but they have a way of getting in the way. when you are trying to put the transmission back you will like having plenty of room.

also i guess you are doing this on your back with floor stands get the car as high as you can and level

transmission is really heavy. You need to be careful with it. I would never try to "catch" it. Had a buddy who crushed some fingers with a diff. Scares the ever loving sh!t out of me....

Originally Posted by cutter67

also i guess you are doing this on your back with floor stands get the car as high as you can and level

That's right...Well guess that means I'm in for another set of jack stands. I dislike these exhaust bolts I got all of them broke loose except 2 of them holding the 2 pieces of exhaust together ...gonna get a grinder and get those 2.

You will most likely really hate the bellhousing bolts

Well I got the exhaust off and decided to call it a night..found a few things looks like something has rubbed on the drive shaft at some point, I'm guessing from the looks of it the drive shaft got pushed up or something . Tranny bushings look beyond shot, and my rear end seems to be leaking. Also found out why my CEL kept coming on about the O2 sensor, insulator on the wire is off in spots where the exhaust got rammed into the tree stump, it bent the exhaust and pulled the wire out of where it was secured. This just keeps on getting more and more costly What is the difference in the 2 different flywheel seal? One has a tension spring and the other has a piece of plastic in it or so it appears..which is better? Any idea whats causing the rear end to leak? Another project for me

the driveshaft is most likely rubbing because of weak transmission mounts. you might get away with repairing the wires on the O2 sensor. the rear diff seal is one of the judgement calls. you climb under most 20 year old cars and the diff is leaking. if funds are tight just check the fluid level and call it a day. it seems like you are taking your time and really looking at items. the big thing to remember is what this car means to you because that will dictate how much you will spend on it. if you really like the car and want to keep it for many more years fix everything you can while your under there but is its just another car just fix what needs fixed.

fine job so far keep it up

Some of the parts under the car have a yellowish pain that resemble something like where you would get a part out of a salvage yard. I know on the front driver side when I have purchased the car it appeared dead the tire had come off while going down the road because the front left control arm look like it and hit asphalt and dragged a good ways. All in all it's been a really good car but with that oxygen sensor like it is I believe I've lost about 5 miles to a gallon. I see now that my shocks need to be replaced I can see where the fluid in them has been leaking out on the front 2. Is there any kind of maintenance that I need to do while I have the transmission out? I don't really want to have to yank a transmission out again just to do any kind of maintenance at a later date then I have to. Well I'm off to work for a little bit and then I'll pick this project back up later when I get back home.

it matters how deep you want to go for like $50.00 you can rebuild the shifter complete in parts starting at lingage seal and ending up at the shifter ball cup bushings. change the front and rear seals and the fluid with a high grade oil. royal purple or something like that.