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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 03-09-2011, 11:57 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
And no, you don't need to drain it before removal of DTS.
I agree.

Doing anything on your cooling system is like a walk I had yesterday along a stream bank in a deep ravine.

You start trying to keep your sneakers dry, hopping from rock to rock, and then as you climb uphill and as the banks begin to close in on you the further you go, the more you get first your toes wet, then the entire foot, then you're up to your knees in cold wet water, by which time you smile to yourself, silly you, how you took great pains in the beginning to keep your little toesies dry in the first place!

As for me, my experience, last November, when my cooling radiator failed at 95K miles, was nothing came out from the little blue drain at the bottom (oh my!) and I balked at draining from the engine (too hard to access).

So, I just started taking off things, splashing a bit when the upper hose came out, a bit more when the thermostat came off, even more with the lower hose and expansion tank (all over my carpeted garage!).

Point is, it's gonna be a bit wet, so just remove stuff, and enjoy the walk in the little brook!
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  #27  
Old 03-12-2011, 04:32 PM
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Nittenyadhav Nittenyadhav is offline
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Hi guys,

today I replaced the hose from stat to rad which had a hair line crack. My problem is, after replacing the cracked hose with new one when I refilled coolant and tried to bleed it. This is what I did open the tank cap open stat bleeder screw put heating on full and fan on slow and start adding coolant in expansion tank. I could hear coolant going but then when it comes from stat bleeder screw it comes with pressure means it's coming like fountain not like it should slowly. Am I doing something wrong? the way coolant is coming from hole I can not see if bubbles coming or not. To protect engine I closed the stat bleeder screw and open the bleeder screw next to expansion tank while I was adding coolant in tank it was coming slowly from this hole and had no bubbles so I closed this as well.

Now I am not sure if my coolant system is bleed properly or not due to that pressure fountain from stat bleed hole.

Please advice me on this. Should I re bleed it or was that ok? Was I doing something wrong in process?
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  #28  
Old 03-12-2011, 05:08 PM
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16valex 16valex is online now
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This is how I would bleed and or refill my M54 engine

Key in pos 2 but don't start the engine

put the heat to max which is 90 F and low blower speed. You should hear the aux heater pump going.
Both bleeder screws loose.
fill the expansion tank and keep on filling it to the top, this may take a few minutes, once the expansion tank is full, close the bleeder screws and cap, don't tight them too much, no need to, each has a gasket.
Start the car
Perform engine cold bleeding procedure, by this I mean to give the engine 3 to 4 3500 RPM revs and hold it there for about 5 seconds. This procedure will purge all the trapped air in your heating system, if this procedure is not done sometime you will get no heat.

Now let the car warm up or go for drive to speed up to operating temp. You know when the engine cooling temp is at operating temperature by touching both inlet and outlet radiator hoses, they should both be equally hot, be careful not to get burn.

check your cooling level at the next cold engine, add more water if needed, continue to check cooling level a few more times, remember to check cooling level only and when it's below 35C otherwise it is not accurate.

You should also unlock your OBC and monitor test 7 to see how your cooling temperature doing for the several days.
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  #29  
Old 03-13-2011, 05:39 AM
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Nittenyadhav Nittenyadhav is offline
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thanks 16valex

but I still didn't get why coolant was coming with so mach pressure from stat bleed point? I did it twice and same thing. What step I am doing wrong that it is coming like fountain?

In you advice you said just to loose both bleed screw and start filling expansion tank and let the air come out and wait until coolant come in smooth flow. then you said leave the bleed screw loose and start the engine to give rev on 3500 for 5 second. Is it safe to do so while screws are loose? What will happen if I still have air trapped in system and I am driving?

Any other help will be very appreciated guys.

One more thing today when I was trying to change DTS I found a plug ties up with another wire on back side of engine. Have a look at this photo this plug has 2 pin slots and they are green. I couldn't find any switch or sensor on back which is missing any plug . please advice on this...
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  #30  
Old 03-13-2011, 07:42 AM
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16valex 16valex is online now
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Quote:
but I still didn't get why coolant was coming with so mach pressure from stat bleed point? I did it twice and same thing. What step I am doing wrong that it is coming like fountain?
This is normal, the flow is created by the water pump.


Quote:
In you advice you said just to loose both bleed screw and start filling expansion tank and let the air come out and wait until coolant come in smooth flow. then you said leave the bleed screw loose and start the engine to give rev on 3500 for 5 second. Is it safe to do so while screws are loose? What will happen if I still have air trapped in system and I am driving?
I've never said to leave bleeder screws loose with engine on, read my post again.

Quote:
One more thing today when I was trying to change DTS I found a plug ties up with another wire on back side of engine. Have a look at this photo this plug has 2 pin slots and they are green. I couldn't find any switch or sensor on back which is missing any plug . please advice on this...
Don't worry about that connector.
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  #31  
Old 03-13-2011, 11:28 AM
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Nittenyadhav Nittenyadhav is offline
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ok thanks 16valex


I just topped up the coolant in tank. I will keep checking it for few days to see if I need to top up again. I will read through how to unlock the codes to read coolant temperature when car is cold and heated. I will report back. So far all looks good and coolant gauge is straight on 12 O'Clock all the time.
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  #32  
Old 03-13-2011, 12:05 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nittenyadhav View Post
I will read through how to unlock the codes to read coolant temperature when car is cold and heated
- How to unlock the low/high OBC on-board-computer cluster for diagnostics (1) (2)

And, if you prefer F to C:
- How to change OBC MID IHKA KTMP temperature from degrees Celcius to Fahrenheit (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)

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  #33  
Old 03-18-2011, 08:12 AM
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Nittenyadhav Nittenyadhav is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
- How to unlock the low/high OBC on-board-computer cluster for diagnostics (1) (2)

And, if you prefer F to C:
- How to change OBC MID IHKA KTMP temperature from degrees Celcius to Fahrenheit (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)



hi Bluebee,

Could you please look at this and help me out? I have a low OBC unit and I was trying to see if I have test 20 right. I couldnt make any sense of it. In this guide which you have posted it says:

20.0 = Press the button to reset display to 1000 (Which I did)
20.1 = Press the button when the correct "ones" positios is attained (no idea what this mean so I press when it was on 1000)
20.2 = Press the button when the correct "tents" positios is attained (no idea what this mean so I press when it was on 1000)
20.3 = Press the button when the correct "hundrads" positios is attained (no idea what this mean so I press when it was on 1000)


Could you please let me know what this ones, tenths and hundreds mean? and on when and what I have to press to get this right?


Regards
Nitten
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  #34  
Old 03-18-2011, 09:40 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nittenyadhav View Post
I have a low OBC unit and I was trying to see if I have test 20 right. I couldnt make any sense of it.
It's better if someone with the low OBC pitches in to help you as a team mate as I have the high cluster so I wouldn't be able to test anything or write up any better instructions. I'd be just guessing.

Someone with the low OBC out there ... would you help Nittenyadhav?
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  #35  
Old 03-18-2011, 09:47 AM
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Nittenyadhav Nittenyadhav is offline
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Thanks bluebee
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  #36  
Old 01-31-2013, 10:28 AM
engel engel is offline
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Mein Auto: E39 530i 2001
Cool easy way to replace the DTS

hi

Today I've replaced the DTS. The reason was that my car had a strange issue since I own it. Nobody was able tell the source of the problem - neither I. The problem wasn't big just frustrating. When I wanted to drive slowly (in traffic jams) the take off with the car was not that smooth as it should be. I've leart to drive the car without any "jerks" but in "my heart" I always knew that something is wrong. Beacause of this problem in the last year I changed all the sensors in the car - except the MAF. None of the sensor replacements gave the solution (by the way the O2 sensors gave a big boost to power at lower RPMs).
So I overlooked this cheap and very important sensor (the DTS).

Today I've done the job and WOW... the car runs smooth now. I'm very happy

So I've done the job in 15 minutes with an O2 wrench. I decided to write a simple DIY:

1. You remove the driver side cabin air intake tube and filter. (1st pic)
2. You can see the sensor - it's under the last intake tube of the 6th cylinder. It's very near to the edge of the engine - more than I expected.
3. You can easily unplug the connector with a flat screwdriver - push it "upwards" (arrow on the 3rd picture)
4. Unfasten the sensor with a 22mm (or 7/8) O2 wrench (wrech + extension - you can see this type of tool on picture number five)
5. Replace the sensor and fasten the new one - not to hard (on picture 4 you can see the waterloss ... it was very minimal just drops... the car hasn't run since about 24h)
6. plug back the connector - it should be easy if you find the correct angel.
+7. bleed the air from the water system - I've done it but I found that no air was in the system...

I encourage everybody to do this job who has more than 200.000km (or 120.000 miles) in the car. - or maybe everybody should do this I mean beacause of the E39's age...

p.s.: I recommend to use only a BMW DTS sensor - since it's cheap too...
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Last edited by engel; 01-31-2013 at 10:55 AM.
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  #37  
Old 01-31-2013, 11:19 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engel View Post
I've replaced the DTS.
The pictures will be very useful for this thread:
- In situ pictures of common parts of the M54 engine (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by engel View Post
I decided to write a simple DIY
Nice!

People will easily find your DIY because this thread is the canonical one!
- How to replace the M54 dual temperature sensor (DTS, aka double temperature switch) in the M54 (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to make your own short DTS removal tool out of a 22mm or 7/8" box wrench (1)

Thanks for posting your information (which will help others)!
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #38  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:36 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Very nice of engel to post this DIY.

I accidentally found this sensor on my car but only when I was crawling around underneath for other reasons. The sensor is very inexpensive, I may just replace mine to see if it matters.
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  #39  
Old 02-24-2013, 02:45 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, this thread today has related information:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Problems with coolant temperature

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I recognize the photo in the original post as being my cluster (see How to replace Double Temperature Switch BMW E39 525i) so I know the OP has seen at least some of what I write below.
But, just in case others need the information, two good threads spring to mind to better understand the cooling system measurement:

Typing /thermostat F3 in the bestlink thread finds this one on how the gauge tracks temperature:
- What is the temperature of the coolant & when the thermostat opens under normal conditions (1)

And, typing /dts F3 finds how to 'trick' the cluster into reading each of the dual temperature sensor values:
- How to replace the M54 dual temperature sensor (DTS, aka double temperature switch) in the M54 (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to make your own short DTS removal tool out of a 22mm or 7/8" box wrench (1)
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #40  
Old 09-04-2013, 03:05 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Just for the record, recently I saw for the first time (for me) an ATMP:
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #41  
Old 11-01-2014, 11:47 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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There is related information about testing a DTS today, over here:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > double temp sensor on e39 530i
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