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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #1  
Old 03-13-2011, 01:54 AM
bkim004 bkim004 is offline
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Smile Intermittent No Start, Transmission Failsafe Mode, Engine Shut-off

Hi everyone, I am reporting a successful resolution to the same problems, many E65 owners are posting here. Common to these postings are perplexing nature of the problems which appear very randomly and usually disappear without a trace very next time the car is turned back on. This occasional malfunction that kept reappearing after many repairs, cause me to lose confidence in daily reliability and to consider selling my 7 bimmer, which I had been loyal to since a 740 saved my life 7 years ago.

Let me describe the symptoms
1. Press the start button and hear a faint click sound but get no response from the starter. After 5 minutes of repeated pressing of start button, suddenly the starter comes to life and car starts normally. Battery charge is not the cause because once it starts, even if you kill the ignition and restart without giving the battery a chance to charge up, the starter cranks with full power for normal ignition. Changing to a $700 oem battery and registering to computer, and even changing starter motor didn't correct this occasional no-start. It is very embarassing when vallet person runs back saying your car isn't starting.
2. Driving normally without any signs of engine or transmission malfunction, the car looses power and warning lights comes on. RPM shoots up and fluctuates between 3K to 5K wildly, feeling like its stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. Display shows transmission failsafe mode error message (Available gears N,1,2,3,5....) Upon restart, the transmission error message disappears and only the service engine soon message remain lit, only to disappear in day or two. No problem with transmission found, says the dealers. Not repeatable. After this happend 3 times in 2 years, I began worrying about making long trips worrying it could happen again on the road any time.
3. From standing idle or just after car starts moving, all of sudden the car stalls as if I pressed the start button to kill the ignition. Gear shifts neutral. Like as above symptoms, when the ignition is turned back on, car runs normal as if nothing has happened. Once it happened at an intersection and with everyone looking at me to get going, and this time the car didn't start when I kept pressing the start button. A minute or two passed before the car started again, and it was back to normal as if nothing had happened. Wanted the kick the car and run it off the cliff.

To make this story short, these 3 symptoms are posted together or individually in this forum, with replies from users suggesting standard solutions such as changing the battery, the starter motor, alternator, fuel pump, DME module, transmission oil flush, oxygen sensors, and even an instruction on how to press start button properly. (Believe me I tried every possible way to get the starter to respond, but nothing seems to work until without any clear reason, the car starts very normally)

These standard suggestion to blame it on a mechanical failure does not take into account that the symptoms appear and disappear randomly. A weak battery/alternator or faulty fuel pump or failing transmission is not going to go away the very next time the car is restarted. Its the clueless dealers who says to replace parts that are begining to fail.....

After 2 years of seeking help from dealership and indy who always cameback saying the problem can't be repeated, I found the solution from ikob with link to http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...62&hg=12&fg=35

It's called Integrated Supply Module, that costs only $120 at the dealers and its a simple DYI project done in 30 minutes.

For me, the problems gradually increased in frequency until one day, it happened 3 times in a single 20 minute drive from work.

So I finally decided to try changing the Int.Sup.Module as suggested by iKob, and found out all 4 dealers I called had this part in stock, leading me to think the dealership wouldn't keep it in stock if they weren't a high demand for it. But no service rep ever mentioned this part as the possible cause. Shouldn't the experienced service rep know that a faulty Int.Sup.Module is the cause for these symptoms which is a known issue to E65?

After I replaced this module, no more problems period. I have put on 5K miles without any of symptoms coming back. Idle is steadier and the car seems to run better.

Thanks, Ikob, for giving me a peace of mind, knowing that the car is going to start every time and drive without worrying about sudden loss of power.

So for all of you who reported saying your dealership fixed your problem by changing battery, starter, or whatever else they blamed it on, after paying their big repair bills, I say all you guys have been had. They probably didn't do anything other than replace this part.
All these things being said about how only oem $650 replacement battery is the only way to prevent these type of electrical glitches caused by 7's heavy power demands and sensitivity, I say it's a scam to make bundles of money changing battery for no reason.

I wrote this report to suggest to all fellow bimmer owners to try replacing this part first if you are having intermitten problems or error messages that comes and goes without clear repeatable mechanical malfunctions. It's a cheap enough to try replacing it, just to find out if it is...could save lots of $$

Thanks for reading.
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Last edited by bkim004; 03-13-2011 at 01:58 AM.
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  #2  
Old 03-13-2011, 03:30 AM
745Japan 745Japan is offline
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You should have posted your problem to begin with. A faulty battery and alternator can have the exact same symptoms though. I definitely understand where your coming from, my BMW dealer had no clue my alt was going out. I personally feel they ( dealers, techs) rely on what the computers have to say too much. That's not to knock any tech guys we have here at all, Keif (sp), Techfreak, but I can see how some shop techs don't think outside the box, especially with the more complicated 7 series. I'm glad you got it working. Keif & a few other threads posted was able to help me identify my problem, alternator changed and now I'm ok. Glad you got your issues resolved though.
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  #3  
Old 03-14-2011, 01:20 AM
bkim004 bkim004 is offline
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Hi 745Japan,
I did post my problem two times before and that where I received a reply from iKob who suggested the solution for my problem.
Thanks
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  #4  
Old 03-14-2011, 09:56 PM
ikob ikob is offline
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Good job bkim004. you will not have same issues for very long time from now. Enjoy those days as spring is about to come.
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  #5  
Old 03-15-2011, 12:55 AM
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745on22s 745on22s is offline
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Hi I've had my 7 not start on me twice! Was about to purchase a starter and swap it next time it failed to start thinkn it's the solenoid!! now were exactly is this module located n the car? Does any1 kno were to get a good workshop Manuel at. I bought the cd manual online(ebay) and it's garbage...
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  #6  
Old 03-15-2011, 09:16 AM
marcusgold marcusgold is offline
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Can you please repost the link? I get a "broken link" in Chrome.
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  #7  
Old 03-15-2011, 10:03 AM
ikob ikob is offline
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http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...390&highlight=
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  #8  
Old 03-19-2011, 01:46 PM
cebummf cebummf is offline
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Wow... This probably is the best info i have ever received.. I have the same problems with my 745 for the last year or so. The very first time was when i was cruising at just below 80kph when suddenly out of no where the car suddenly stalled as if someone turned the switch off! After cruising powerless i stopped by the side and tried to restart the car. After about 5mins of trying the car started again! On another occasion when i was about to leave home for work the car didnt want to start again. This was the most common problem i experienced. There were times when the engine would crank just when i press the start button but as soon as i released the button the crank stopped too without starting the engine. I too thought that it could be that i failed to press the brake pedal firm or had enough or the starter is beginning to show signs of wear. But just thinking of these problems really didnt make sense. I was recently told by the BMW service advisor that i should get a self charging (black battery as they call it) and replace the old one. This too doesnt make sense. After spending money on repairs it seems the problem still exists. Next week i will definitely have my int power module changed. I just hope this really will give us the peace of mind we so long to have!! I wll update you guys once module has been change. A very big thanks in advance!!
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  #9  
Old 03-19-2011, 02:24 PM
PierreDavate PierreDavate is offline
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crazy

woow thats crazy i agree with many that these cars are sensitive
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  #10  
Old 03-19-2011, 11:55 PM
cebummf cebummf is offline
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Not only is it sensitive but its complicated to the point that even BMW service advisor do not really know the exact problems.. what they often do is to have you change parts till they get the right solution.. due to the highly sophisticated nature of this car its really hard to pinpoint exactly whats wrong with it more often than not..
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  #11  
Old 04-16-2011, 11:09 PM
bkim004 bkim004 is offline
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Just reporting back.....
I have put on over 5K miles with uncountable number of starts and I have not experienced one failed start or transmisson failsafe error. Thanks for new integrated supply module that I replace by myself. $120 for the part. Lot cheaper than replacement battery or new starter motor. Thanks again IKOB.
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  #12  
Old 04-16-2011, 11:12 PM
bkim004 bkim004 is offline
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oops I mean another 5K miles since my first solution post.
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  #13  
Old 04-17-2011, 05:53 AM
745Japan 745Japan is offline
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Glad you got the issue sorted out bro and back in business again.
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  #14  
Old 05-22-2011, 04:22 PM
jide_99 jide_99 is offline
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dude god bless you, i have tried and went thru everything that was put for this problem except this. i love these car but if i didnt get this tip from bkim004, was on my way to settle for a benz. got tired of it and it is frustrating. i am goin to try this next week and hpfully it works. where is it located?
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  #15  
Old 09-24-2011, 05:34 PM
yungfizz yungfizz is offline
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Hey bkim004 thanks man this just happend to me but let me ask u a question i got like 7 malfunction lights flash across my screen before it cut off did that happen to anyone else in this forum?
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  #16  
Old 05-15-2012, 02:36 PM
Marcobrown1619 Marcobrown1619 is offline
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I changed my batt a few months ago. And this past week i changed the ips module under the passenger cabin filter. The same problem, remains. I noticed that if its a hot day (80 +) and ive been driving around a bit, the car doesnt want to start right away. Its like an "old school" starter symptom. What do u guyz think?
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  #17  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:02 AM
midlife325ic midlife325ic is offline
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Where is the Integrated supply module located exactly? Sorry, having trouble finding the answer.
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  #18  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:12 AM
midlife325ic midlife325ic is offline
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Where is the Integrated Supply Module located? Sorry, I'm having trouble finding the answer. See lots of pictures of the part itself.
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  #19  
Old 06-03-2012, 12:02 PM
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I have the part New in the box if you need it $100.00 Shipped
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Old 06-03-2012, 01:18 PM
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wjjklj wjjklj is offline
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I just ordered this part last night for $84.80 from thebmwstore.com which includes shipping. Part number is 12527510638.
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Old 06-03-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by wjjklj View Post
I just ordered this part last night for $84.80 from thebmwstore.com which includes shipping. Part number is 12527510638.
Not bad. I guess my price is too high
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:05 PM
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Not bad. I guess my price is too high
I priced out about 50 parts this weekend and thebmwstore was the cheapest by far on 95% of the parts with free shipping.
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:12 PM
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wjjklj wjjklj is offline
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The integrated supply power module is under the passenger side micro filter. 1) remove the mico-filter and black plastic cover, 2)take a t-30 bit and remove the 6 screws in the black plastic lid underneath the micro-filter, 3) remove the last screw in the back left by removing the micro-filter clip near the fender with a 10mm socket, 4) remove black plastic lid, 5) find IPS and unplug cords, 6) replace IPS, 7)put everything back together. I also saw that the DME was in there. Hope this helps.
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  #24  
Old 06-05-2012, 06:26 PM
Msshirley56 Msshirley56 is offline
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This info has been very helpful...I have a 2005 745Li and I had not driven it for a couple months and it started fine, went for a drive and service engine light came on; drove for another 5 miles and all sorts of default message started flashing.. transmission failed safe mode, dynamic module dysfunctional, lights in dash panel went out and started flashing on and off, car stalled and restarted automatic, drove car home at a moderate speed, with power going on and off and once in garage, car would not go into park. Turned off ignition to get into park; let it set for a few days, car started fine and drove fine. Took to shop, there were 41 different codes; shop reset codes, I drove home no problems, shop check battery and alternator, states they were fine. Ask me to drive it to see if any codes return and bring it back if they do. I think I am going to try the Integrated Supply Power Module, any other suggestions?
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:15 PM
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wjjklj wjjklj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Msshirley56 View Post
This info has been very helpful...I have a 2005 745Li and I had not driven it for a couple months and it started fine, went for a drive and service engine light came on; drove for another 5 miles and all sorts of default message started flashing.. transmission failed safe mode, dynamic module dysfunctional, lights in dash panel went out and started flashing on and off, car stalled and restarted automatic, drove car home at a moderate speed, with power going on and off and once in garage, car would not go into park. Turned off ignition to get into park; let it set for a few days, car started fine and drove fine. Took to shop, there were 41 different codes; shop reset codes, I drove home no problems, shop check battery and alternator, states they were fine. Ask me to drive it to see if any codes return and bring it back if they do. I think I am going to try the Integrated Supply Power Module, any other suggestions?
If you are going to leave your car for several weeks without starting, you need to turn off the battery switch in the compartment on the right side of the trunk. You should also get a battery tinder that will do a trickle charge and not overcharge your battery. The 7 has many computers that run and will drain the battery if you do not drive it. I think this is your issue more than the IPS but drive it regularly for a few weeks and see if you get any faults.
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