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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #26  
Old 06-05-2012, 08:19 PM
Msshirley56 Msshirley56 is offline
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Location: Michigan
 
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Mein Auto: 2005 BMW 745li
Thanks you for the info....I drove it again tonight and the codes returned; I will try driving it again tomorrow or should I just replace the battery; even though the shop said it's fine. I did not get the voltage reading. Any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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  #27  
Old 06-06-2012, 12:39 PM
Msshirley56 Msshirley56 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2005 BMW 745li
After a shop visit and codes reset (41 of them), was told to drive it and see if they return. I drove it again and the codes returned, car powering up and down, transmission failed, dynamic drive inactive, lights in dash going on and off, service engine light and several others. Help, any suggestions????

Last edited by Msshirley56; 06-06-2012 at 12:40 PM.
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  #28  
Old 06-06-2012, 04:01 PM
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wjjklj wjjklj is online now
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Mein Auto: 2009 750i
Go into the hidden menu and see if the alternator is charging. Hold down trip meter stalk for about 15 seconds until you see the service reset and continue to hold down until the hidden menu comes up. Go to selection 19 to unlock the hidden menu and enter the number which is the sum of the last five digits of your VIN. This will unlock the hidden menu. You can then scroll through to see how many volts the alternator is putting out. It should be around 13.8-14.0 volts. Also completely charge your battey for at least 6 hours. See if that helps. If not, then I would replace the IPS for $85 and see what happens. It is possible that you got a bad battery also. Take it to autozone and have them test it with a load for free.
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  #29  
Old 06-13-2012, 07:05 PM
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wjjklj wjjklj is online now
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I replaced the integrated power supply tonight. It was very easy to do and took about 25 minutes. I have been experiencing the no start a couple of times and also got the transmission fail safe warning once after replacing my battery and registering it. For $80 I figure it is worth a shot. Since most of the modules run through this device it at least seems like cheap insurance. The only thing I noticed was that the fuses are newer type sealed fuses on the new supply module. They are open wires on the top of the fuses for the old module. Easy DIY.
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  #30  
Old 06-13-2012, 07:32 PM
Msshirley56 Msshirley56 is offline
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Thanks for the info, I may have to try that next. I did get the battery checked out by Auto Zone, it was good, but needed a charged. I had it charged up, last Friday and yesterday the Dynamic Drive Inactive light came on and today it started dragging like it was stuck in a gear and shortly after that all types of different codes started coming on... everything from transmission fail safe, to park brakes malfunctioning, power going in and out, could not put it in park; had to shut it off to park it. Later this evening started it up and drove for about 8 miles no problems.
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  #31  
Old 06-13-2012, 07:54 PM
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wjjklj wjjklj is online now
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I had similar issues and the battery checked out. I replaced it anyway. It was 8 years old. How old is your battery? The month and year it was made is printed on the top of one of the battery posts.
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  #32  
Old 07-03-2012, 01:07 PM
Msshirley56 Msshirley56 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2005 BMW 745li
Did changing the battery solve your problems? How long has it been since you changed it? I still got issues.. I changed the "ips" and had the battery charged at the dealership. Car ran good for about 75 miles and went back into the same issues. Battery did check out good, waiting for call back from dealer with the age of battery; they are thinking it's the "gateway module" I think they are guessing...
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  #33  
Old 07-03-2012, 06:00 PM
ikob ikob is offline
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replace the alternator.when lights in dash going on and off, means the alternator on your 7 is faulty.
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  #34  
Old 12-23-2012, 12:16 AM
arqcegp1 arqcegp1 is offline
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Thank you!

Mine had exactly the same issue. Changed the integrated supply module as recommended. I haven't had any problem since. Dealer I always go had the part first hand so, issue might be common in these cars. Well done!
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  #35  
Old 04-30-2013, 10:02 PM
FirstTime7Owner FirstTime7Owner is offline
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Great Post, my issue exactly bkim004

Everything you mentioned is exactly the same problems I had. After the car was at BMW for 7 days, they could not fix the problem, instead they changed a cam position sensor for $700, that dis not work, even though I insisted they change the IVM module, they said that was not the problem. So I took the car to an independent BMW certified mechanic, when I described the symptoms he immediately said it could be the IVM. Long story short, he changed the IVM, that was 2 weeks ago and i have not had a single issue. I would like to highlight the things changed until the problem was fixed

1) battery - did not fix the issue, BMW recommendation
2) bought a trickle charger since BMW CLAIMED the issue was that I was not driving the car far enough every day, that did nit fux the issue, BMW Recommendation
3) cam position sensor, did not fix the issue, BMW recommendation
4) transmission pan and mechatronic sleeve - bmw claimed a slight leak on the transmission was throwing errors, BMW Recommendation
5) oil pressure sensor - claimed it was leaking therefore creating issues, problem persisted, BMW Recommendation
6) IVM module , no further problems since this was replaced, independent mechanic recommendation

The point is, BMW Service does the bare minimum to help you, they know there exists issues like this but always seem to appear clueless when troubleshooting. I will post further updates on how the fix is workin, but so far, the IVM replacement was the best thing I have done.
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  #36  
Old 05-08-2013, 09:28 AM
fara1 fara1 is offline
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Thumbs up

many many thanks i have been involved with the same fault for 6 months and i have just ordered the part to bmw ,
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkim004 View Post
hi everyone, i am reporting a successful resolution to the same problems, many e65 owners are posting here. Common to these postings are perplexing nature of the problems which appear very randomly and usually disappear without a trace very next time the car is turned back on. This occasional malfunction that kept reappearing after many repairs, cause me to lose confidence in daily reliability and to consider selling my 7 bimmer, which i had been loyal to since a 740 saved my life 7 years ago.

Let me describe the symptoms
1. Press the start button and hear a faint click sound but get no response from the starter. After 5 minutes of repeated pressing of start button, suddenly the starter comes to life and car starts normally. Battery charge is not the cause because once it starts, even if you kill the ignition and restart without giving the battery a chance to charge up, the starter cranks with full power for normal ignition. Changing to a $700 oem battery and registering to computer, and even changing starter motor didn't correct this occasional no-start. It is very embarassing when vallet person runs back saying your car isn't starting.
2. Driving normally without any signs of engine or transmission malfunction, the car looses power and warning lights comes on. Rpm shoots up and fluctuates between 3k to 5k wildly, feeling like its stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. Display shows transmission failsafe mode error message (available gears n,1,2,3,5....) upon restart, the transmission error message disappears and only the service engine soon message remain lit, only to disappear in day or two. No problem with transmission found, says the dealers. Not repeatable. After this happend 3 times in 2 years, i began worrying about making long trips worrying it could happen again on the road any time.
3. From standing idle or just after car starts moving, all of sudden the car stalls as if i pressed the start button to kill the ignition. Gear shifts neutral. Like as above symptoms, when the ignition is turned back on, car runs normal as if nothing has happened. Once it happened at an intersection and with everyone looking at me to get going, and this time the car didn't start when i kept pressing the start button. A minute or two passed before the car started again, and it was back to normal as if nothing had happened. Wanted the kick the car and run it off the cliff.

To make this story short, these 3 symptoms are posted together or individually in this forum, with replies from users suggesting standard solutions such as changing the battery, the starter motor, alternator, fuel pump, dme module, transmission oil flush, oxygen sensors, and even an instruction on how to press start button properly. (believe me i tried every possible way to get the starter to respond, but nothing seems to work until without any clear reason, the car starts very normally)

these standard suggestion to blame it on a mechanical failure does not take into account that the symptoms appear and disappear randomly. A weak battery/alternator or faulty fuel pump or failing transmission is not going to go away the very next time the car is restarted. Its the clueless dealers who says to replace parts that are begining to fail.....

After 2 years of seeking help from dealership and indy who always cameback saying the problem can't be repeated, i found the solution from ikob with link to http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...62&hg=12&fg=35

it's called integrated supply module, that costs only $120 at the dealers and its a simple dyi project done in 30 minutes.

For me, the problems gradually increased in frequency until one day, it happened 3 times in a single 20 minute drive from work.

So i finally decided to try changing the int.sup.module as suggested by ikob, and found out all 4 dealers i called had this part in stock, leading me to think the dealership wouldn't keep it in stock if they weren't a high demand for it. But no service rep ever mentioned this part as the possible cause. Shouldn't the experienced service rep know that a faulty int.sup.module is the cause for these symptoms which is a known issue to e65?

after i replaced this module, no more problems period. I have put on 5k miles without any of symptoms coming back. Idle is steadier and the car seems to run better.

Thanks, ikob, for giving me a peace of mind, knowing that the car is going to start every time and drive without worrying about sudden loss of power.

So for all of you who reported saying your dealership fixed your problem by changing battery, starter, or whatever else they blamed it on, after paying their big repair bills, i say all you guys have been had. They probably didn't do anything other than replace this part.
All these things being said about how only oem $650 replacement battery is the only way to prevent these type of electrical glitches caused by 7's heavy power demands and sensitivity, i say it's a scam to make bundles of money changing battery for no reason.

I wrote this report to suggest to all fellow bimmer owners to try replacing this part first if you are having intermitten problems or error messages that comes and goes without clear repeatable mechanical malfunctions. It's a cheap enough to try replacing it, just to find out if it is...could save lots of $$

thanks for reading.
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  #37  
Old 05-10-2013, 05:13 AM
fara1 fara1 is offline
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Mein Auto: 740LI E66 2008
Smile supply module

hi any one could tell me if i change the supply on my bmw 749 li e66 2008 do need to in to program the car?is it diy ?
any help is appreciated
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  #38  
Old 06-02-2013, 01:05 PM
BMWBIRD304 BMWBIRD304 is offline
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Location: Bluefield WV
 
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Posts: 42
Mein Auto: 2002 745i
Intermittent No Start, Transmission Failsafe Mode, Engine Shut-off

Can someone post a video of how to DIY? I'm sure it's not hard but I am not familiar with this car.


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  #39  
Old 06-02-2013, 02:53 PM
7Rage 7Rage is offline
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Mein Auto: 2007 750Li
I had same symptoms and at first it was alternator. symptoms came back even worse before within a month.... CPO covered, dealer says Integrated Voltage Module.... Keifr had a post to DIY change this module... its under the hood tho and VERY easy and module is similarly priced...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2810754...n/photostream/
this is his DIY walkthrough...

Strangely enough about 6 months later (2 weeks ago) the car did the same things and I was pissed.... took to dealer and could not replicate and even on test drive i couldnt and I pushed that car and got all the electrics going to try....

the night it came back in full force out of nowhere (2 hours from home), the car shut down doing 70-80mph and did not automatically restart while rolling (like in previous times) and I had to pull over and turn ignition off/on.... after this the problem did not come back (very strange)... dealer tested modules and alternator and found no problems.... but I think they are full of ****.... i think they switched it out without recording in system to prevent it coming in for a "3rd" time for the same problem (i know it will), therefore invoking the CA lemon law (same repair 3 times under same warranty qualifies as a lemon). if its modules, they cant replace the engine or anything, they have to replace the whole car.... I am sure they don't want that....

so CPO is almost out and I am considering trading in, this car has had too many electrical problems.... I'd like to keep it because it can be soooooo great, and if I do the vanos and spark plugs I am sure this thing would be damn near perfect but I am thinking of a simpler car (less computers/modules)... maybe m5 or 550... but everything new has turbos :shrug:... sounds expensive as its bimmer not some greddy aftermarket thing....
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  #40  
Old 09-06-2013, 02:23 PM
ThatLAguy ThatLAguy is offline
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Mein Auto: 745LI
Thank you!!!

Hello,
I joined the group specifically to say thank you!
I had the exact same issues of car not starting randomly or stalling in the street and shifting into park and giving me a transmission failsafe warning.

The problem was so bad ( 5 times a day) that I just listed the car for sale because it was no longer drivable. 2 independent shops and the dealership couldn't find the problem.

I stumbled across your answer and ordered the part from the dealer. It was in stock and I picked it up and replaced the part in the parking lot of the dealership. I followed the posted directions and pictures. 15 minutes later my car started up and has never stalled it given the warning again. It's been about a month of perfect driving!!!

Thank you guys so so much!!!!

Now to fix that pesky popping static in the front passenger speaker.... Thanks to you guys and this forum, I already know what needs to be done.
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  #41  
Old 10-21-2013, 09:30 PM
rluciani rluciani is online now
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Mein Auto: 2004 745 Li
I have been having the same issues described above for several months now, but it just happen to have been more frequent lately with my traction control, stabilizer, ABS, parking brake, transmission fail codes all going on while I am driving and engines drops power. I pull on the side of the road and have to wait for it to reset because if I try starting the car, it will not let it. Today I decided to leave the car at home because I started it and when back inside during warm up, when I went outside and got in the car the dash warning lights were flashing me all the codes and the defrost was coming on and off at the same time with the engine hesitating every time it would shut off. Like every one else I thought there was an issue with low voltage before but after replacing the battery it continue having the same problem. I am sitting at home reading these threads to see if others have had the same issue and it appears that it is a common one. I will order this part tomorrow and will let every one know how it worked. THANK YOU bkim004 for such a elaborate description.
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  #42  
Old 10-21-2013, 10:42 PM
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SuperSnoop SuperSnoop is offline
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Mein Auto: 2007 760Li
Intermittent No Start, Transmission Failsafe Mode, Engine Shut-off

When you replaced the battery, did you get it registered to the car?


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  #43  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:04 AM
rluciani rluciani is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSnoop View Post
When you replaced the battery, did you get it registered to the car?


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No because this is the first I have heard of how to do this, I have printed the instructions posted above and will attempt to get it done today and see how it reacts. Thanks.
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  #44  
Old 10-22-2013, 07:17 AM
rluciani rluciani is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rluciani View Post
No because this is the first I have heard of how to do this, I have printed the instructions posted above and will attempt to get it done today and see how it reacts. Thanks.
I just realized that the instructions only cover how to access the hidden menu to see the current voltage, is this how the battery is also register and if not how can I get it done?
Thanks again,
Raul
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  #45  
Old 10-22-2013, 01:59 PM
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SuperSnoop SuperSnoop is offline
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Mein Auto: 2007 760Li
Intermittent No Start, Transmission Failsafe Mode, Engine Shut-off

You need software and a cable to register the battery. You should be able to take it to and independent BMW shop and have them do it for a small charge.


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  #46  
Old 10-22-2013, 04:05 PM
rluciani rluciani is online now
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Location: Montana
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSnoop View Post
You need software and a cable to register the battery. You should be able to take it to and independent BMW shop and have them do it for a small charge.


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Thanks for the response and that's what I was afraid of, no BMW dealers in Montana. I'll look for other options, maybe the import car mechanic in town may have the software. If not can I get this software and where?

Thanks again for the valuable info.
Raul

Last edited by rluciani; 10-22-2013 at 04:05 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #47  
Old 11-21-2013, 07:32 PM
rluciani rluciani is online now
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I am reporting my findings after doing random voltage check at different times. After having check the voltage output on my car in the afternoon it showed 14.2 v, the next morning I started the car and did another check after I notice I could not hear the winding of a load on the alternator and the voltage was 11.2 v. I let the car idle or would rev occasionally to see if it would engage but to no avail. When I hooked the charger on it and took it off, the alternator started charging. this happened a few times to which I decided to replace the alternator before anything else, and I can say after replacing the alternator all my problems went away (various error codes trans, stability, etc.). I took a reading of the new alternator and it was putting out 15.2 because my battery was low. Now I can hear and the effects of charge in the car to which I never noticed before such as the ac fan speeding up when I rev the engine when I have the seat heater going, back window defroster, front windshield heater. This alerts me that my alternator is charging. What baffles me is that I never received an alternator not charging code, however on two occasions very far apart I received a replace alternator message but then it went away and it did not come back until a year later and disappeared again. My problems began getting progressively worse lately for my decision to change the alternator. There are two things I don't like about my car, the radio reception sucks and there are no gauges for oil pressure or voltage. Everything else is awesome, I guess I can accept its small flaws. Thanks everyone for the help!
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  #48  
Old 11-29-2013, 06:11 PM
Iceman44 Iceman44 is offline
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Mein Auto: '03 BMW 745i, '09 MB S63
This IPS Was exactly what I needed for my car...was driving me crazy with all of the previously mentioned errors and fault codes....there were times it took over 20-30 minutes to start my car of late. I was thinking about selling this car after finding out that my alternator and starter were not bad but yet I was unable to get a diagnosis. I read this thread last week and call my local stealer and he had two of these modules in stock. The DIY was only about 20-minutes to replace and the car not only starts consistently but runs better as well! I just replaced my secondary air pump, fixed a major oil leak and replaced my coolant reservoir which was leaking so I love my car again....hopefully no more problems to report any time soon...
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  #49  
Old 01-24-2014, 04:54 PM
Brian Pfeiffer Brian Pfeiffer is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 745LI
BMW Lover/Hater

Thank You so much for this post! I have been going crazy for a year taking my car to dealership after dealership, $800.00 on transmission, $1,200.00 on battery and alternator, on and on..... they also wanted to replace the computer at a cost of about $4,000.00 after they try replacing the ignition switch first. So much for professionals. A bunch of professional rip off idiots! When you described your problem it was mine exactly!!! I can not thank you enough. I love my car but I hated not knowing when it was going to shut off or act up.
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  #50  
Old 02-28-2014, 07:29 AM
beamer21 beamer21 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 745li BMW
2004 745 li Transmission Failsafe

Hello everyone. I have been reading a lot trying to figure out what is going on with my car. All lights on the dash are on. All of a sudden the car would go into fail safe mode and the car wouldnt shift gears. I would turn the car on and off and it would go back to normal. So I figured it was a transmission problem, I drove it for a while and over time turning the car off wouldnt solve the problem and now it wont go into reverse. I had the transmission rebulit and had the computer reset and it was driving great. I thought problem solved. Then after 2 weeks it went back into failsafe mode again. I had the computer reset and it lasted like 1 day. I have a feeling it is a computer related problem. I have had people say it could be the Valve body mechatronics??? That is a 2700 dollar part I was wondering if any one else has heard or have had this problem. I saw the post about the Integrated Supply Module and was wondering if this might be causing my problem. I have not had an issue with starting the car so I am thinking it may not be that. Please any advice would be appreciated. The car is in the shop and they want to put a new tranny in it but I really dont think that is needed and would like to save 4000 dollars if possible. Thanks
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