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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #26  
Old 03-24-2011, 07:33 AM
Dawntreader Dawntreader is offline
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P.S. What the hell is a Tempsan t-shirt. Obviously something scarce here in oz. Tell me what it is and I will see if I can find an aussie version or 2.
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323i 2009 E90 MY09 Sedan 4dr Steptronic 6sp 2.5i - 67,000 and Red Crimson.
525i 1990 E34 M20 - 400,000 Km's and rockin'
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  #27  
Old 03-25-2011, 03:55 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawntreader View Post
P.S. What the hell is a Tempsan t-shirt. Obviously something scarce here in oz. Tell me what it is and I will see if I can find an aussie version or 2.
Sorry to hear of your motor problems. If you are indeed correct (which is sounds like you are), then I think your plan of action is spot on.

The t-shirt that Roberto is referring to is the one that the forum member TemporarySanity created and has posted here on the forum.

Seems like Roberto may not have earned it afterall

Steve
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It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #28  
Old 03-25-2011, 04:53 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawntreader View Post
Finally got the right connector for the compression test. Results are as follows:
Cylinder 1 - 165 - psi 11.38 bar
Cylinder 2 - 155 - psi 10.69 bar
Cylinder 3 - 150 - psi 10.35 bar
Cylinder 4 - 140 - psi 9.66 bar
Cylinder 5 - 180 - psi 12.42 bar
Cylinder 6 - 140 - psi 9.66 bar

They are all over the place and far too varied.
I have a large amount of oil coming out the back of the motor. Looks like a rear main seal, which would most likely mean I need a rear main bearing etc. Oil is coming down from inside the bell housing.
Cost to change rear main seal is $650
Similar cost for head gasket.
Need a new radiator. $450 new then add install cost.
Tranny to be flushed - unsure of cost
I put off removing the head until I had the compression test done.
Because of the low pressures, rear main seal and 380K on the clock I think a change in engine is best.
Will get the car transported to the mechanic, cheaper than me getting gaskets and new hoses to just to be able to drive it for them to then change it again.



So as a result, I will put in the new 2nd hand m20 motor that has done 141K

Dawntreader did not report any driveability problems before this incident. It just happened out of the blue. So, it had nothing to do with the engine. It was the atf cooling subsytem in the radiator that was busted. The car probably drove fine before that.

Dawntreader can continue driving the car after changing his radiator and flushing his tranny. He'll just need to top up oil into his crankcase from time to time to replace the oil lost due to the crank seal failure. It may not be a huge leak....he didn't notice any oil patches anywhere, it may appear huge now because he's looking at it after its been around for possibly months, but if he cleans the oil off during a degreasing undercarriage wash, and monitors it once every week after that, he may notice that its nothing severe.

Or, he just has to look at how much oil he's loosing over time. Oil is cheap.....very cheap, especially since its such an old and tired engine, its better to use dino oil which is cheap and you can refill it all the time.

So you don't have to do your HG, or swop the engine. You can watch the situation for awhile. In that case then, do not change the wp, belts, thermostat, timing belt and timing bearings, unless they are obviously screwed (inspect this during radiator removal). Just change the radiator, bleed screw, and fan clutch, flush the tranny, change the engine and radiator hoses, and drive the car thereafter.

Monitor the situation. If the leak is real bad, then consider changing crank seal or engine and at that point, do the WP, belts, timing bearings, timing belt and thermostat on the engine you're swopping in.

Your compression test numbers.....more tests need to be done to determine exactly what is wrong with the combustion chambers. The results themselves are pretty inconclusive for now. You need to obtain a vacuum pressure gauge and a cylinder leakage tester, and conduct the tests that these instruments are used for. It would also help if you purchased a mechanic's stethoscope along the way as well. These guages are easily resaleable so its not a waste of much money if you ultimately don't want them. Ebay sells great stuff if you can't find it locally.

Dawntreader, what is the cost of a top overhaul where you live? This involves reseating the valve seats, regrinding the valves, decarbonising the cylinder head, cleaning off the carbon from the piston tops and chambers and changing the hg and vcg ? If all of your piston rings are still in good shape, and the crankshaft leak is bad, then the money might be better spent on doing a top overhaul and changing the crank seal alone rather than swopping in a new engine...which will have god knows what compression, dirty heads and valves and stuff.

And btw I've never heard of anyone charging A$10k for an engine rebuild you're being ripped off good mate. It should be in the region of around $2-$3k a the most for both parts and labour, bloody 2-3 days work max, and this involves everything mentioned in the previous paragraph as well as new piston rings (but old pistons, valves, valve seats and springs, if you want to buy new springs well it might cost up to $500 more but let the mechanic decide that for you after inspecting your old ones once the head has been taken apart). Even if it costs a couple of hundred more than a replacement engine, its worth the money because your engine would be restored to a essentially brand new condition. Take a day off work and work the phone line to get a better deal, i don't think you're able to search properly in the middle of work.

I think those are good options I believe the T shirts are still richly deserved.


rgds,
Roberto

p.s. TempSan's T shirt threads :

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...419&highlight=

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=527194

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 03-25-2011 at 05:03 AM.
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  #29  
Old 03-25-2011, 05:10 AM
Dawntreader Dawntreader is offline
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I decided I had best do a wet test as well.
The results are next to the dry test. I did a number of subsequent tests after the first wet tests and did these over a space of 1/2 hour.
Cylinder 1 - Dry 165 - psi Wet - 200 / 195 / 195
Cylinder 2 - Dry 155 - psi Wet - 175 / 175 / 170
Cylinder 3 - Dry 150 - psi Wet - 175 / 185
Cylinder 4 - Dry 140 - psi Wet - 160 / 180 / 185
Cylinder 5 - Dry 180 - psi Wet - 200 / 195
Cylinder 6 - Dry 140 - psi Wet - 200 / 200 / 200

Does this mean my rings are on the way out? Should I worry about it know or do I have a few K's up my sleeve?
I am thinking I might do the rings and bearings instead of putting in a second hand motor of low K's.
How much mileage would I get out of the engine if I did the rings etc.?

I have rung a number BMW specialists and a number of them seem to think that the rings and bearings are the way to go.

Now I am just all confused???????????????????????
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323i 2009 E90 MY09 Sedan 4dr Steptronic 6sp 2.5i - 67,000 and Red Crimson.
525i 1990 E34 M20 - 400,000 Km's and rockin'
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  #30  
Old 03-25-2011, 10:49 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawntreader View Post
I decided I had best do a wet test as well.
The results are next to the dry test. I did a number of subsequent tests after the first wet tests and did these over a space of 1/2 hour.
Cylinder 1 - Dry 165 - psi Wet - 200 / 195 / 195
Cylinder 2 - Dry 155 - psi Wet - 175 / 175 / 170
Cylinder 3 - Dry 150 - psi Wet - 175 / 185
Cylinder 4 - Dry 140 - psi Wet - 160 / 180 / 185
Cylinder 5 - Dry 180 - psi Wet - 200 / 195
Cylinder 6 - Dry 140 - psi Wet - 200 / 200 / 200

Does this mean my rings are on the way out? Should I worry about it know or do I have a few K's up my sleeve?
I am thinking I might do the rings and bearings instead of putting in a second hand motor of low K's.
How much mileage would I get out of the engine if I did the rings etc.?

I have rung a number BMW specialists and a number of them seem to think that the rings and bearings are the way to go.

Now I am just all confused???????????????????????
How do you do your compression tests? Did you remove the fuel pump fuse and and then start and run the engine till it naturally died first? Even if you have zero coolant in the engine, a cold engine will take around 3 minutes to reach operating temp and a minute or 2 after that to overheat. The engine dies naturally within 30 seconds after the fuel pump's fuse has been removed.

Please tell me the exact steps you take to do the dry compression test. Imagine i'm totally clueless, but please begin from the point the gauge has been screwed into the target cylinder right till the number of cranks that you use. I suspect you're not doing this right which is a very common problem, which is why I'm asking. Thanks.

Btw, if you did the rings and bearings, as well as the valves, seats and springs, and you gave it fully synthetic oil for the rest of its life, you'll get at least another 250k miles out of it. Comfortably.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 03-25-2011 at 10:51 AM.
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  #31  
Old 03-26-2011, 04:03 AM
Dawntreader Dawntreader is offline
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pre steps
1: fuel pump disconnected
2: plugs removed
3: coolant system disconnected, have removed radiator, haven't flushed engine yet
4: inlet and exhaust manifold disconnected
5: rocker cover has been unbolted and is currently just sitting on head

Compression gauge: Looks like the one below. Except the it is an ABU II. Quite new


Dry test procedure
1: screw in compression tester in plug hole number 1. Do up until snug but not tight.
2: press relief valve on compression tester
3: hold gauge with one hand, reach inside car and turn engine for 5-6 cranks until gauge tops out. Gauge does not flicker or change direction when topped out.
4: press relief valve
5: unscrew gauge

repeat steps 1 - 5 for all cylinders

Wet test procedure
1: place 2 good squirts of synthetic oil into cylinder (used a small oil can with a trigger. Couldn't quite see it entering into cylinder but squirted in the general direction and seemed to enter successfully)
2: screw in compression tester in plug hole number 1. Do up until snug but not tight.
3: press relief valve on compression tester
4: hold gauge with one hand, reach inside car and turn engine for 5-6 cranks until gauge tops out. Gauge does not flicker or change direction when topped out.
5: press relief valve
6: unscrew gauge
7: wipe any excess oil off the base of the gauge

repeat steps 1 - 7 for all cylinders

I hope his helps.

PS I took the radiator off and gave it a good flush with the hose. (Sorry no photos, I left the camera at work)
Water seems to flow through rather well. Checked the coolant level sensor. Gave it a clean on its own. Not sure how to test it yet. Will search the forums for this information.
Flushed out the ATF filter in the radiator as best I could. It flows well and the mesh inside looks clean and shiny when looking through the 2 entry points.
I took off the 2 brass connectors that go into the side of the tank for the ATF. The rubber seals look a little perished, the tube they seal onto looked a little grimy, so i scraped of any built up residue making sure I did it as flat and as smooth as possible. I will get 2 new seals for these.
I tried to determine if there was a leak in the ATF pipe in the radiator. Simple test, blocked one end and tried blowing to see if I lost any pressure. Didn't seem to lose pressure, but then I can't pressurise a pipe on my own. Obviously I need to get this professionally tested along with the radiator in general. But I am feeling good/hopeful about the expected results. I am hoping it is just the 2 seals that gave me choc milk and that i just need to replace the seals.


PPS. the t-shirts look interesting.... may have to get one for me as well

I gotta go and have a Kangaroo Burger
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525i 1990 E34 M20 - 400,000 Km's and rockin'
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  #32  
Old 03-26-2011, 07:36 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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You are mistaken about the seals. Those seals you refer to merely protect the hot atf from the outside world i.e. when they go bad, only pure atf will leak out, water doesn't leak in.

There are passages in the radiator where atf-filled passages and coolant vanes are arrayed next to each other to permit heat transfer. There is a serious, cascading rupture in this subsystem (if it was a small problem we wouldn't have had that much stuff coming out). Fortunately, the seals went bust as well causing everything to come out....imagine if oil and coolant had been mixing together and circulating into your radiator and your transmission without you realising it!

Your radiator needs to be replaced sir. It is an act of mercy that the destruction of the radiator only lead to atf mixing with coolant and leaking out. If it lead to coolant escape itself, your engine might have overheated...sometimes without you realising it (if you don't have a habit of looking at the thermometer while driving - i don't) which could cause far worse problems then what you're facing now.

What is your opinion?

I will get back to you about your compression test numbers in the morning. I need to dig out my old figures myself.



rgds,
R
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  #33  
Old 03-26-2011, 08:07 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I'm going to add this thread to the referenced threads on what advice to give people who are faced with major head gasket (or similar) decisions due to cooling system failures ...

- Combined advice for major decisions when a cooling system overheating caused suspected blown head gaskets, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, and valve damage (0) (1) (2) (3) & advice given to people faced with similar blown engine problems (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22)
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  #34  
Old 03-27-2011, 09:16 AM
Dawntreader Dawntreader is offline
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Below are a few of the things I ave discovered whilst going thought this whole process:

Image 1: my crank angle sensor has been rubbing against a pulley be the looks, so I have tied it back with a cable tie.


Picture of the inside of the rocker cover. All looks pretty clean and tidy


This image shows some pitting on the manifold gasket. Not sure what this means for the rest of the engine. I had best check out the cooling components.


The next 2 photos show the thermostat housing and the thermostat housing cover. Quite corroded. Unsure how long it has been like this.



This is the connector from the back of the ead near the firewall. I wasn't going to change it but I thought I had best. Glad I did. After taking it off I gave it a clean, removing some grime I happened across a hole.
Yikes! how long was that there?


This show the bit that attaches to the intake manifold. This also shows a hole which was hidden by the dodgy hose that was covering it.



These photos show how the system shouldn't be. I have had the car for 3 years so far. It has been pretty well kept in regards to coolant. I have had a few ongoing issues with cooling and I think I have just found some of the problems that have caused me issues. I just hope there is less damage in the engine. I have had a look and all seems Ok.
Once I get the radiator replaced, have the ATF flushed and put some new cooling components back on, including some hoses all shall be right. I will leave the Water Pump as it is less than a year old.
Have made a list of parts and am off shopping tomorrow.
Will post a list of costs as I go.
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525i 1990 E34 M20 - 400,000 Km's and rockin'
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  #35  
Old 03-27-2011, 09:36 AM
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luckydog luckydog is offline
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The effects of electrolysis and mineralized water on aluminum parts, make a a good case for using BMW coolants anti corrosion properties. Your getting some great pics of the damages. It is good news that your cylinder compression readings are stable . Those water parts need replacing.
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Last edited by luckydog; 03-27-2011 at 09:47 AM.
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  #36  
Old 03-27-2011, 09:38 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Thanks for the great pics and write up and update. Props to you man. You are attacking this with the zeal of a true Bimmer fanatic

BTW, would you please share with us how you got the captions and blow up inset pictures on the pics you posted? What image program are you using? That is fantastic for pointing the viewer right to the area of interest. I would like to be able to do this in future DIY write ups or if I have a problem that I need help with.

TIA,
Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #37  
Old 03-27-2011, 12:08 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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1. I just spoke to my engineer. He is of the opinion that you've neglected your car due to a poor attitude to your vehicle and not due to a lack of funds. Considering that you've had it for 3 years already and yet had such a bad set of hoses, I must agree.

2. Pricing levels for cars and for workshop labour are essentially very similar down under as they are in the states. As such, all the pricing numbers you've been giving out for second hand engines, rebuild costs, etc, are quite nonsensical.

3. The scale of the increase in figures for (most of) the wet test results over the dry one (20%) is consistent with normalcy.

4. Your dry /wet test figures indicate clear evidence of worn rings on at least 2 chambers (the 140 psi ones obviously). The rest are probably reaching the same point. Some chambers are overly caked with piston-top carbon, which could indicate a bad air/fuel intake channel for that chamber or bad valves etc. Basically, the whole head has to be taken out and reinspected. You should also replace all the rings on the pistons.

5. Get a v8 engine instead. Upgrade the torque convertor in your transmission along the way or else change the gbox entirely.



rgds,
R

EDIT : From v6 to v8...typoed that sir ! :_

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 03-27-2011 at 07:38 PM.
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  #38  
Old 03-27-2011, 01:03 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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^ v6
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #39  
Old 03-27-2011, 07:37 PM
Dawntreader Dawntreader is offline
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Yes, I suppose it is my fault, :-(. I have had issues with cooling over some time. Put in coolant, as required, leak top up, not always have coolant on hand... put in coolant etc... put in new water pump... put in coolant, leak top up with what ever on hand etc... a catch 22 cycle... to my demise unfortunately. robbertobaggio20, you can be sure my attitude to my bimmer has improved, you can tell your engineer this, we are going to purchase a smaller Toyota for everyday city running around, of which there is a lot, and keep the bimmer as our touring car for holidays, weekends and wonderful nights out on the town. This way when the car has to go off the road there is no transportation impact on the household.. The bimmer travels between 700-1000kms per week in really stop start traffic, rarely gets a decent run.
As regards to prices of parts and labour, I stand by my posts. Nothing here is as cheap as anywhere else. Example is my Relay Module (2nd hand, and works fine) which I purchased from the US for a paltry $54, this includes postage. Where as the same thing here (2nd hand, ranged from 150 - 195). There aren't that many places in Perth where one can get seconds for this car. So they have a monopoly and take advantage of it.
I don't now what labour costs are over there but here, my available bimmer specialists start at $100 per hour (and these are the car wrecker guys), with most around $125 up to $150 per hour.
Quote for replacing a new radiator ranges from 650-800 (new radiator cost at $450)
Quote for rear main seal replacement is again 650 - 850.
If the car is off the road, I then have to fork out car hire at $65 per day, only hiring a Toyota corolla. This includes insurance. I could hire a piece of rubbish for $30 a day but I wont have that
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525i 1990 E34 M20 - 400,000 Km's and rockin'
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Last edited by Dawntreader; 03-27-2011 at 07:41 PM.
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  #40  
Old 03-27-2011, 07:46 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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I suggest you purchase the radiator from the states. Purchase price is under $200, shipping can't be more than $100 to your country. Secondly, replace the radiator yourself. Its time consuming but easy - no especial expertise is required. Thirdly, let me know what you intend to do with the engine. Do you want to keep it as it is and merely top up oil to replace that which is lost through the crankshaft seal? This may be realistic considering that its not going to be your dd. You obviously did not have any driveability problems before this whole incident so your current engine's performance may be alright for your purposes.

And yes, start and stop traffic is more suited to a toyota. No surprise that the e34 decided to commit hara kiri after 3 years of this. A girl can only take so much.

I will give you further advice about your car after you answer the questions above. Please don't initiate any repairs to your car as yet. Global planning is critical at this stage.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 03-27-2011 at 07:48 PM.
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  #41  
Old 03-28-2011, 12:22 AM
Dawntreader Dawntreader is offline
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I will get the radiator from here, I have managed to get a new one with expansion tank for $410, I can get one for $350 but that is without an expansion tank. And I can get either of these tomorrow.
Yes they are easy to change, so I will install myself.
We are considering getting another engine, rebuild it on the side and when it is ready swap it over.
To get the block and head machined etc is $450, New pistons, rings and bearings are $700. I will have to check about whether that includes valves and springs etc. I am guessing not.
I can put it back together myself over time. That is my biggest issue. Time. I want to keep the car, love the car, she is in good nik both in and out..
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525i 1990 E34 M20 - 400,000 Km's and rockin'
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  #42  
Old 03-28-2011, 07:40 AM
injunmort injunmort is offline
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you are purely speculating about the cause in compression drop until you remove the head and inspect. it could be a number of things from head gasket, valve seats, rings etc. you wont know until the head is off. if you kept clean oil in the car and didnt abuse it, i doubt your rings are gone. start with the head.
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  #43  
Old 03-28-2011, 09:11 AM
Dawntreader Dawntreader is offline
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Well, I placed an order for some parts today... did only what was necessary.
How about this for a price difference.
I tried a number of places to get this little bit

All my usual sources stated that I could only order them from BMW (that is our Auto Classic Company)
Online I could get it from Pelican or autohausAZ for $6.50 plus I would have to add postage.
Price for me here in Perth order from the eastern states because no-one has them here? $69.00. yup, thats $69.00. I could go second hand, but I want new stuff. I have bent under the weight of needing the car on the road and ordered it. And that is not the only thing I have had to order through this lot.
But I will be sourcing all my parts from either of these other two companies I think.
Just thought I would let you know what we are dealing with down here.
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  #44  
Old 03-28-2011, 12:57 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by injunmort View Post
you are purely speculating about the cause in compression drop until you remove the head and inspect. it could be a number of things from head gasket, valve seats, rings etc. you wont know until the head is off. if you kept clean oil in the car and didnt abuse it, i doubt your rings are gone. start with the head.
2 of his compression test numbers were lower than bentley's rating for the car. That is especially significant considering that they must be caked with carbon and so should exhibit a higher compression than specs. Most importantly, the level of improvement during the wet test, well that really shows that those two chambers had bad sealing. In my experience, if 2 chambers are sealing badly, the others are not far behind. All the compression figures for every chamber is haywire. The m20's bosch motronic was not sophisticated enough for individual combustion chamber management.

But i agree with injunmort that you should remove the head and check everything out first....bad piston rings don't necessarily mean that everything else is good either.

I think you should put your car aside for now and instead purchase that cheap toyota that you mentioned. Once you've got that in your driveway, start buying parts from stateside and saving yourself a bundle. You'll thus be able to afford more new parts, or more workshop time on your car, etc. Any money saved will go straight into the car.

You have not mentioned anything about what you'd do if the crankshaft's oil leak was not significant. Why don't you keep driving this car without doing anything to the head, since costs seem so high where you live? Or tender out the work, run an add on craiglist perth and in the newspapers, solicit mechanics and workshops to tender for the job at hand and watch the prices come down.


rgds,
R
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  #45  
Old 03-28-2011, 04:38 PM
Dawntreader Dawntreader is offline
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Location: Perth, Australia
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 39
Mein Auto: BMW 323i E90 MY09
I will keep the car as is at the moment. The crank leak is bearable at the moment. I have to change the sump gasket anyway and this may alleviate some of the oil. I have had three attempts to get the sump off. The last attempt thwarted by a torx bolt holding the support on the sump housing. Was able to get all other bolts off bar 1. Ran out of time and had to retighten it all back up. Have to purchase a new full set of torx sockets as can not buy them individually here. If I park on a slope I just park with the nose pointing down hill, otherwise I get a bigger oil leak.
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323i 2009 E90 MY09 Sedan 4dr Steptronic 6sp 2.5i - 67,000 and Red Crimson.
525i 1990 E34 M20 - 400,000 Km's and rockin'
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  #46  
Old 03-28-2011, 08:15 PM
luckydog's Avatar
luckydog luckydog is offline
Lucky to drive a BMW
Location: Ca
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,356
Mein Auto: 2006 M5///
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawntreader View Post
Well, I placed an order for some parts today... did only what was necessary.
How about this for a price difference.
I tried a number of places to get this little bit

All my usual sources stated that I could only order them from BMW (that is our Auto Classic Company)
Online I could get it from Pelican or autohausAZ for $6.50 plus I would have to add postage.
Price for me here in Perth order from the eastern states because no-one has them here? $69.00. yup, thats $69.00. I could go second hand, but I want new stuff. I have bent under the weight of needing the car on the road and ordered it. And that is not the only thing I have had to order through this lot.
But I will be sourcing all my parts from either of these other two companies I think.
Just thought I would let you know what we are dealing with down here.
Wow those are some incredible prices,definitely sound like dealer prices. And Ebay stores can often be cheaper than the two parts suppliers you mentioned.
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  #47  
Old 03-29-2011, 02:49 AM
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CarDriver CarDriver is offline
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Location: Saint Albans, New York
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,409
Mein Auto: 1992 525it /2004 ML350
Some radiators from ebay. I hope you did not order one yet. 200 and under w/exp tank (New) Yes, Ebay stores have some of the best pricing...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-90...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-e...Q5fAccessories
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Last edited by CarDriver; 03-29-2011 at 02:50 AM.
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  #48  
Old 11-07-2011, 02:01 PM
yummy yummy is offline
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Location: Msk
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: e34 m20b25 mt
Hi, I have the same problem or very similar, but the manual transmission and compression of norm. mileage 300k +
oil mixed with coolant was everywhere. replaced with a new cylinder head, gasket and bolts. now oil without coolant in the engine throttle,stalls below 1000 rpm + the next time the engine warms up - oil spilled on the floor.
I did have a lot to do with my hands,insanely tired. I can not understand what the problem.
photo make with old cylinder head,now no oil in radiator,and clean oil only in engine throttle and clean oil on the floor = )


Last edited by yummy; 11-07-2011 at 02:05 PM.
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  #49  
Old 11-07-2011, 06:50 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Location: earth
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,403
Mein Auto: car
1. Go to sleep.
2. Wake up tomorrow.
3. Look at your engine very carefully, from all angles. Use a good flashlight.
4. Find the oil leak.
5. Make sure there are no other oil leaks.
6. See if you understand how to fix the leak.
7. If you don't, snap off a picture and post it here.
8. Make sure all of your wiring connections have been reconnected properly. Sometimes weird engine behaviour happens because you reconnect stuff into the wrong places.
9. Clean your throttle position sensor (tps). Use electrical contact cleaner. This can sometimes solve the idling problem.
10. Don't worry about this too much. Be zen about it. Its going to get fixed.
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