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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-24-2014, 02:18 AM
CaliBimme CaliBimme is offline
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Location: San Diego
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 2000 540i
Unhappy Overheating damage Help!

So, i just bought a 2000 540i about 4 days ago. i am 18 and its my first car. yesterday i had a family friend come look at it to make sure nothing was wrong with it because sometimes it jerks forward when slowly braking, but found that nothing (obvious) was wrong. while inspecting under the hood, he pushed really hard trying to open the overflow tank and burst a hose. Flaming how coolant started spraying everywhere and so he released the hose holder (the metal ring that's tightened with a flathead. idk what its called) causing coolant to flow all over the engine and the bumper and the licence plate, right after i washed the car. i was scared and enraged. he found that the fan shrout was old and falling apart, and had been lazily "repaired" with zipties, so he started ripping off the torn pieces until the whole shrout fell apart and he completely ripped it out. "you need a new fan shrout" he saidhttp://s1.bimmerfest.com/forums/images/smilies/cursin.gif. gee, ya think so. So, without a fan shrout the overflow tank had nothing to rest on and it caused the hose to slip off and at this point no fluid came out (i thought it was dry by now) so he came and the car was working fine and when he left it had a big hole and now, as far i knew it was undriveable. Bursting with rage i got in contact with the nearest BMW specialist place which was 40 minutes away. *deep breath* i didnt know much about my car and how things work so i wanted the car fixed right then. the only problem, i didnt have any other car (i know its about to get a lot worse, so keep your facepalms ready for the real bad part) I jimmy riged the overflow tank to not fall into the fan just long enough to get there, tried my hardest to put the hose back, and drove, the car was fine for about 25 minutes into the drive until my brother took us on the wrong junction, having to get off the freeway, i stopped at a stop sign. steam started coming from the hood and so i pulled over for 10 mins. i hooked the hose back and set off again, this time 5 minutes in the temperature gauge started going into red so i pulled over for another 10 mins. when we got off the freeway the car shut off right as i was pulling into the shop and when i looked at the dash it said something like car overheating so yea it overheated and shut off. we pushed it 20 feet into the shop, bought a new overflow tank, hose and fan shrout. waited 2 hours for the car to cool off under a shady tree with the hood up and they installed the parts for me. now when looking online a lot of people say that letting the car get to the point of shutting off is suicide and that i may need a new engine, or that the head gasket may be warped or cracked. I haven't even had this car for a week and i may have ruined it. i am so scared and wondering if anyone has any advice. i learned 3 things:

1. only consult experts

2. When in doubt DON'T DO ANYTHING, especially drive the car.http://s1.bimmerfest.com/forums/imag...pshakehead.gif

3. Dont trust myself
http://s1.bimmerfest.com/forums/imag...es/bawling.gif
im scared and idk what to do, it drives just the same, i cant tell if anythings wrong. i dont want to have yet another person take a look at it and pay for that too. im scared i may have done some damage to something important but dont know. i dont have the money to replace a V8 engine or a head gasket. if you have any advice or anything that could help i would be so thankful. thank you in advance_a__a2_
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  #2  
Old 07-24-2014, 08:30 AM
edjack edjack is offline
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Location: San Jose, CA
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 8,896
Mein Auto: '97 540i 6 speed
Make sure the cooling system is filled with coolant (50-50 antifreeze and water). Follow the bleed procedure below.

You may be lucky - the V8 (M62) tends to be a little more tolerant of overheating. You won't know until you get it fully bled, and then begin driving again.


Bleed cooling system via Jim Cash

First - coolant should never be to the "top" of the expansion tank.

I think there are 2 versions of the expansion tank but I suspect they both have the float and indicator stick. Assuming you have the stick indicator it the top of it should never be above the lip of the filler opening rim.

That "expansion" tank is supposed to be mostly air - leaving room for the coolant to expand and compress the air as the coolant heats up.

If you overfill it then it will come out the escape valve and suck air back in - air in the system can cause levels to vary and bring on the alarm.

Bleed the system with the following proceedure - and it is necessary to raise the front end of the 6 cyl cars to do this


------
Cooling system bleed procedure M62 engine (E39 97 version)


- with cold car
- top up coolant to proper level.
- leave rad cap loose

This stage bleeds air trapped in the heater system.
- turn on ignition switch to position 2 (no start)
- set temperature selectors on the climate control to max temp.
- manually set the fan speed to low (lower end of speed range)
- start engine (check that climate settings have not changed)
- after 5-10 seconds of running rev the engine 3-4 times to about 2500 RPM - hold
there for about 5 seconds each time.
- shut off engine (should not run for much longer than about 30 seconds - you just want
to shut if off before it starts to generate any heat and expand the coolant).
- inspect the coolant level and top up again if necessary.
- tighten the coolant fill cap.

This stage bleeds air from the engine, rad and fill tank.
- now warm up the engine (drive a bit if you wish)
- with engine running CAREFULLY / SLOWLY open the bleed screw. Hold a rag around the area to prevent any excess splashing. Keep the screwdriver in the slot of the bleed screw so you can close it quickly.
- you should have some air/steam escape - progressing to some bubbles of coolant.
- as soon as it progresses to the stage where you are seeing liquid coolant come out then close the bleed screw. Do not over tighten - it is all plastic threads and you can easily turn too far at which point the screw jumps back a thread and you have to re-tighten. Just make it snug with all coolant stopped.
- when the car is cold again re-check the coolant level and top up again if necessary.

You may have to repeat the bleed procedure 1 or 2 more times over the next week. Can "probably" skip the stage for the cold start bleeding of the heater system.

If the level continues to fall below the correct level then have the system fully pressure tested - explaining to your service manager what you have already done.

It is very important that all leaks be sealed so that the system can operate at full pressure. The engine computer is programmed to keep the coolant temp at about 108C at "most" times (there are exceptions) and the only way it can maintain that temp is if the pressure can be maintained - system fully sealed.
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Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.

Last edited by edjack; 07-24-2014 at 08:32 AM.
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  #3  
Old 07-24-2014, 10:40 AM
MuscleWagon MuscleWagon is offline
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Location: NC
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 111
Mein Auto: 99 540iT


Cool story...subscribed.
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  #4  
Old 07-25-2014, 12:43 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,504
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
Bleed cooling system via Jim Cash
We probably should have a separate thread called out for bleeding the V8 vs the I6 in the bestlinks but, we don't so I appended edjack's helpful information to the existing thread so others will find it in the future ...
- Bleeding the cooling system (1)

See also:
- Coolant, for engine, automatic transmission, power steering, and AC evaporator cooling (1) & bleeding (1) (2) (3) or refilling DIYs (1)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #5  
Old 07-25-2014, 12:57 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,504
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBimme View Post
im scared and idk what to do, it drives just the same
If I were you, the first thing I'd do is learn a bit about how the cooling system works.
- How does the E39 cooling system work (1)

I'd replace (a lot) more parts than you did:
- Complete cooling system overhaul recommended parts list (1)

Because we all recommend you do a complete cooling system overhaul in your situation:
- Pictorial look at typical E39 cooling system failure modes (1)

Meanwhile, I'd keep an eye on the temperature:
- How to run a cluster check of the cooling system temperature KTMP (1)

If I was worried about damage, I'd run a few tests:
- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test an engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) (2) & replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & the most recent real-world results from the last 50 people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 07-25-2014 at 12:58 AM.
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