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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 04-05-2011, 08:11 PM
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Oh right! The rest if the stuff finally came in. Although I didn't get my Zimmerman slotted rotors ... I gotta check my invoice if it was charged or not. Maybe it got missed on the order over the phone.oh wells, I'm headed to dealership tomorrow , so I'll prolly just pick ip a set of stock rotors, and center caps...


Looking at the back part of the wheel, it doesn't seem to look like it has the hubcentric grooves...??? Are 18" style 42 supposed to be like that?


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  #27  
Old 04-05-2011, 08:22 PM
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  #28  
Old 04-05-2011, 08:39 PM
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Mack you should've gotten the Hualigan when they were still available.
No complaints here so far....actually more than happy.
I am blown away by the Igo nav system. Magellan not even close....
Suddenly I stopped shopping...I just wait in the car (for my beloved) and watch movies....Worth every penny and then some.
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  #29  
Old 04-05-2011, 08:42 PM
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I don't even know WTF that is. Similar to Dynavin?
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  #30  
Old 04-05-2011, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mack View Post
I don't even know WTF that is. Similar to Dynavin?
See this:



and this:



from this thread. Steering wheel functional.

But this is a thread hijack.
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  #31  
Old 04-05-2011, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
See this:



and this:



from this thread. Steering wheel functional.

But this is a thread hijack.
I was actually gonna go for that one at first... But I couldn't find anyone (who spoke English) who sold it.most of the sellers were from china.jeff from the e46 site sells the dynavin and so far he's been awesome with the customer services. Answered all my questions and was quick about it.plus I read about all the hacks possible on the dynavin and that won me over. Although I love your main menu screen. Much nicer. I like the BMW logo too. The good thing
About the dynavin you can mod the screens and other stuff. I put this ilas my BMW logo for my screen...



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  #32  
Old 04-06-2011, 07:12 AM
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You can "mod" the screen on the Hualigan unit as well -start-up logo, change the icons, etc. That's trivial - it's Windows CE.
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  #33  
Old 04-06-2011, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franka View Post
The wheel's ET is critical in determining the spacer thickness. They are both speced in mm.
It is ONE of several factors, to include tire size/width, and how much lowering the car has. Also, people may have a personal preference to how much additional space they wish to increase the track.
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  #34  
Old 04-06-2011, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540 M-Sport View Post
It is ONE of several factors, to include tire size/width, and how much lowering the car has. Also, people may have a personal preference to how much additional space they wish to increase the track.
Yes, that is the point that you did not mention that is as critical as the spacer thickness since the spacer thickness and the ET togther determine how far out the wheel/tire sits. And both are in mm and as absolute numbers are additive. (absolute numbers means ignoring if the offset, the ET, is positive or negative)

Also, lowering of the car does not have an affect since the wheel/tire still travels the same arch regardless of what springs or ride ht the car has.
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  #35  
Old 04-06-2011, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by franka View Post

Also, lowering of the car does not have an affect since the wheel/tire still travels the same arch regardless of what springs or ride ht the car has.
Yes it does. Because you are reducing travel when you lower the car, so there is more likelihood of contact if the tire and fender lip or fender liner are physically closer to each other from the start.
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  #36  
Old 04-06-2011, 08:48 PM
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I mounted 255/35/18 on all four today... I couldn't resist installing them, just to see how it would look.so far at stock non sport height, the fronts looks good. Almost flush and the rear I installed the 10mm spacer and it's almost flush also. It looks good the way it is now.but I will drop it regardless. Btw, should I use the lug bolts that came with the spacers or should I order longer lug bolts? Right now I'm using the ones that came with the spacers.for the size of lugs I need to just add 10mm to the stock length right?


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  #37  
Old 04-06-2011, 09:01 PM
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No effing pics???
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  #38  
Old 04-06-2011, 09:09 PM
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No effing pics???
Lol not yet man... After slapping on the wheels I had to go pick up my wife...post drop pics with wheels on will come up tomorrow

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  #39  
Old 04-06-2011, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540 M-Sport View Post
Yes it does. Because you are reducing travel when you lower the car, so there is more likelihood of contact if the tire and fender lip or fender liner are physically closer to each other from the start.
Again, that is not correct and I will explain why. Assume the same wheel/tire is used in both cases and that we are talking about the rear.

The longer springs, which are the OEM springs, and the shorter springs, the lowering springs, both have the wheel/tire travel on the same arch/curve that is defined by the mechanical swing arms of the suspension.

Both springs, in their upper most travel, which is their compressed position and their lowest most travel position, which is their droop position, pass along the same arch/curve and both will have the wheel/tire contact the fender lip and/or the liner in the same spot. Assuming there is contact. That same spot is typically the inner fender lip and/or the fender liner higher up.

They both travel along the same path from their full compression to their full droop. And that path/arc/curve is determined by the fixed length of the suspension swing arms. Its a fixed mechanical path that repeats over and over.
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  #40  
Old 04-06-2011, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franka View Post
Again, that is not correct and I will explain why. Assume the same wheel/tire is used in both cases and that we are talking about the rear.

The longer springs, which are the OEM springs, and the shorter springs, the lowering springs, both have the wheel/tire travel on the same arch/curve that is defined by the mechanical components of the suspension.

Both springs, in their upper most travel, which is their compressed position and their lowest most travel position, which is their droop position, pass along the same arch/curve and both will have the wheel/tire contact the fender lip and/or the liner in the same spot. That same spot is typically the inner fender lip and/or the fender liner higher up.

They both travel along the same path from full compression to full droop. Its a mechanical fact.
I understand what youre getting at. At stock height the wheel will travel up and down in the same path as a drop. So lowering the vehicle will just throw the wheel somewhere up higher but still in the same path because of the arms hold the wheels.I think what the other argument was that, if you lower the vehicle the wheel will get closer to the shocks/liners. Which is still correct. Because the "path" the wheel travels as the wheel go up into the fender will get closer to the shocks.like a triangle. The wheels are the 2 bottom points and the car is the top point. Traveling up will bring it closer to the top but will still follow the same path it will always travel....


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  #41  
Old 04-06-2011, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edmonem View Post
I mounted 255/35/18 on all four today... I couldn't resist installing them, just to see how it would look.so far at stock non sport height, the fronts looks good. Almost flush and the rear I installed the 10mm spacer and it's almost flush also. It looks good the way it is now.but I will drop it regardless. Btw, should I use the lug bolts that came with the spacers or should I order longer lug bolts? Right now I'm using the ones that came with the spacers.for the size of lugs I need to just add 10mm to the stock length right?
The lugs that came with the spacers should be longer by the thickness of the spacer. Do not use the OEM ones as they will be too short, even if a few threads will start.
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  #42  
Old 04-07-2011, 01:36 AM
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Okay guys, now I've got a dilemma...I took pictures if the lug bolts.

The the short middle bolt was the stock. Looks like at stock it only threads in about 10mm. I figure the darkened part was threaded into the rotor...

I out it next to my 10mm spacer.
The longer middle bolt came with the spacers.they seem to have threaded into the rotor about 12 or so mm...

The outside shirt bolt is the tuner lug and seem to be the exact size to replace the stock. Now the longer outside bolt is supposed to replace the extended bolts that came with the spacers. They are about 5 or less mm than the extended bolts. It doesn't look safe to use them right? For now I just used one for security. I park on the street.my question is, does the 10 mm of thread that go into the rotor safe? I bought the car with it like that so I'm not sure if these are stock lugs or replaced.I think it would be good to replace the short stock lugs with the longer tuner lugs...and just get longer tuner lugs for the extended bolts.any input would be great... Mack where did you get your tuner lugs from, I might want those instead and just sell these tuner ones...


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  #43  
Old 04-07-2011, 03:44 AM
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The rule of thumb for any bolt/lug is that the length of thread engagement should be no less than 1.5 x the diameter of the bolt/lug. Any less engagement on any one lug, is not advised because as the wheel rotates, say thru a hard turn, the load on each individual lug also varies in sequence. So the shorter engagement lugs will see the same load as the longer engaged lugs. The subject gets more complex than this simple explanation but this will do.

The 1.5 rule on all lugs, and the specified torque, is all that is required.
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  #44  
Old 04-07-2011, 04:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edmonem View Post
I understand what youre getting at. At stock height the wheel will travel up and down in the same path as a drop. So lowering the vehicle will just throw the wheel somewhere up higher but still in the same path because of the arms hold the wheels.I think what the other argument was that, if you lower the vehicle the wheel will get closer to the shocks/liners. Which is still correct. Because the "path" the wheel travels as the wheel go up into the fender will get closer to the shocks.like a triangle. The wheels are the 2 bottom points and the car is the top point. Traveling up will bring it closer to the top but will still follow the same path it will always travel....
You started out well and then about 1/2 way, when you brought the shocks into the picture, it muddy-upped the point. In real life the wheel/tires swing both lower and higher than at ride ht.

Also, when you say triangle, I assume you are drawing a crude model using one point as the pivot point of the swing arms and the side opposite of that point, as the wheel/travel path. And the remaining 2 sides (as shown by this symbol >) are the corresponding 'radius' of the swing arms. If that is what you meant then yes you have a basic model of the fixed geometry.
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  #45  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franka View Post
You started out well and then about 1/2 way, when you brought the shocks into the picture, it muddy-upped the point. In real life the wheel/tires swing both lower and higher than at ride ht.

Also, when you say triangle, I assume you are drawing a crude model using one point as the pivot point of the swing arms and the side opposite of that point, as the wheel/travel path. And the remaining 2 sides (as shown by this symbol >) are the corresponding 'radius' of the swing arms. If that is what you meant then yes you have a basic model of the fixed geometry.
Frank,
I understand where you are coming from (and appreciate your detailed response each time), that clearances do not change with the height of the car, BUT they do influence whether they will contact or not, with a given tire/wheel combination. You are assuming a car can or will use that entire arc. In most driving situations you will not....so having the car physically higher, will reduce the incidence of contact if there is a potential contact point within the arc...simply because you have increased the distance from the two contact points.

As an example, on my lowered car, after I added 15mm spacers, I could get a very minor amount of scraping from the outside shoulder of my rear tires touching the inside lip of my rear fenders, but only on deep compression, like going from flat to up a grade very quickly. I could have raised my car slightly with my coilovers, but instead chose to have my inner fender lips rolled. Either would have corrected the problem.
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  #46  
Old 04-07-2011, 12:26 PM
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No effing pics???
As promised...
Before


After


The rear seems to be almost flush with the 10mm spacers



The front without spacers


Lol my wife was walking towards the parking at the mall and was like, where did you park? I smiled and point at the car and she said oh wow, it looks really different...

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  #47  
Old 04-07-2011, 12:56 PM
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[QUOTE=540 M-Sport;5979138]You are assuming a car can or will use that entire arc. QUOTE]

Not at all my friend. Never said that or implied that. Merely pointed out the begining and ending points of the constant curve.
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  #48  
Old 04-07-2011, 01:55 PM
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OMFG that is a 2000% improvement! Nice bro. VERY nice. Lovin' it!
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  #49  
Old 04-07-2011, 02:24 PM
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Thanks mack...now I just gotta drop it... I'm being really lazy and pushing it back...


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Old 04-07-2011, 02:41 PM
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Looks much better.
I also believe you hurried with the spacers.
You should have waited until you install the sport setup, then measure the gap between the inner fender and the outer most pont of your wheel (rubber). That measurement would be the spacer you want. I would be curious what the distance is now - using the setup you have posted in the pic.

Cheers
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