Is 5 series so secured?

Originally Posted by bluebee

I'm curious how you posted that URL (with the dot between "u" & "b").

This is what you posted:
-

This is where it went (I added spaces to keep the link from viewing):
- http:// www . youtube . com / watch?v= kVmPfCFFkqQ&feature=youtu.be

WOW bluebee nothing gets by you! lol that's a good thing. Actually i didn't even notice, when i was on youtube i clicked the box for the "short link" and that's what it gave me.

Originally Posted by DominguesE30

How easy is it to break the windows on these babies?

I was an EMT in my college days (emergency medical technician). One of the many classes I took was called 'light extrication'.

It was fun (jaws of life to pry doors open, air tools to cut handles off of doors, we even peeled the roof off a junked car ... it peeled like a can of sardines.

Of course, we also extricated dummy heads shoved through windshields (you cut the head loose, with the glass all around as a necklace, believe it or not); and, we destroyed quite a few side and rear windows.

None, and I mean none, in any normal car, are at all difficult to break.

Here's a DIY for breaking a (tempered glass) side window:

1. Tape a star pattern with masking tape (to protect occupants inside)
2. Place screwdriver or equivalent at any CORNER of side window
3. Tap with a mallet

Every time, that simple tap tap tap, will result in shattered glass.

Try it. You'll see.

What does NOT result immediately in shattered glass is smacking the glass in the center with a mallet. It 'might' shatter the glass; but as often as not, it will just bounce off (and if it does shatter the glass, you spray it all over the occupants presumably trapped inside).

We were judged by how much glass we didn't get inside the car, by the way.

Originally Posted by Jimmys 530i

I bought my E90 with a salvage title, and it didn't come with a key. I bought a key off of eBay, and after putting it in, it took the code and the car started right up.

I'm confused.

In addition to programming the transponder code, don't you also have to 'cut the key' (the grooves and bumps in the metal blade) in order for it to start the car?

Originally Posted by Whorse

when i was on youtube i clicked the box for the "short link" and that's what it gave me.

Ah, I understand now!

Previously, I simply cut-and-pasted the browser navigation toolbar results which always embeds the youtube video.

Clicking on Share and then "Short URL" provides a link which isn't embedded.
-

That's nice!

I've just added that recommendation to the thread on how to post pictures and video to Bimmerfest:
- Everything Else > Site Feedback / Questions / Suggestions > How to post shrink modify edit annotate merge upload etc pictures for posting here

hahaha ur funny in a good way bluebee

Originally Posted by Whorse

whoaa nooo sorry, misunderstanding. I was referring to the myth that only the dealer can code/program the keys.
Was no disrespect towards you. Sorry we got off on the wrong foot

And your right i was not thinking about how many keys can be accepted by the DME. Its funny though, if you get all 10 keys programmed in the DME then the repo guys cant take your car with the key method. lol still nothing stopping them from putting skates your car and getting it on a flatbed.

BTW What scanner do you use? Are you able to code modules like the ABS or LCM? I'm on the market for a cheap yet safe scanner/computer. Whats good for a serious DIY'er and wont break the bank? Should i buy a laptop based system or hand-held?

Carsoft hardware you can run INPA and recode EWS and LCM etc for under $100!

Originally Posted by 02BMW530

You can, however, cut 100 plastic keys. These have no chips and only do one thing -

This is INCREDIBLY WRONG (sorry). The plastic wallet/spare keys as well as the other 3 available key types for your car has an EWS transponder chip inside it (remote, illuminated, & valet/service keys). Without the chip...the key has no way to start your car. The ISN (individual serial number) is required EVERY time you start your car...and the communication between the DME, EWS control module, Transmitter/Reciever (on older models), Ring Antenna, and the key must ALL communicate and identify that it has the same ISN as all the other EWS components.

Originally Posted by bluebee

That's very interesting. We should all 'hide' a plastic key under our bumper (or wherever).

Do we have a good source for those plastic keys?

Sorry Bluebee...but the info that you read above is wrong...if you could buy a 100 plastic keys...you'd be stuck with a pile of useless keys.

Originally Posted by Jimmys 530i

How about this, I will hook up my scanner to my 530i, and take a picture of the screen that shows how many keys are cut, and how many are left. It does not matter what type of coder you have, you cannot get around the DME not accepting the 11th key.

Originally Posted by Whorse

And your right i was not thinking about how many keys can be accepted by the DME. Its funny though, if you get all 10 keys programmed in the DME then the repo guys cant take your car with the key method. lol still nothing stopping them from putting skates your car and getting it on a flatbed.

Jimmy & Whorse...you two are both kinda right. You both were really on different pages. Yes, he EWS control module can only accept information for 10 keys. Each key that is programmed into the EWS control module also has a unique "password" as well as the same ISN as all the other EWS components. This unique password assigned to each key allows it to be barred or unbarred if the key is lost or stolen then found. A lost or stolen key can be barred (for protection)...and if found, can be unbarred. This can be done for however many times required. But again, only 10 keys can be programmed into an EWS control module.

Now, on the other hand, there are some companies (one is in Canada and advertises heavily on some forums) and possibly some repo companies...that have aftermarket equipment that can retrieve the ISN & password info from EWS, and can copy that info into a new chip. Since the copied info is not NEW, but a copy of existing information...the key can work...fooling the EWS system into thinking that it is using one of the keys that's already been programmed into the EWS control module. So again, both of you were right, but just on different pages.

Originally Posted by E39 Paul

hmmm ...try using a length of metal bar (like a coat hanger) and carefully pry top of drivers door ajar.
use metal bar to press boot release...presto you then have your keys.

Sorry...but that trick won't work either. Our cars have the ability to remove the trunk from the central locking system (that's why we have a valet key). If the trunk lock cylinder is in the horizontal position ( -- ) ...it can only be opened with the key (manually or remotely). The trunk release button in the footwell nor the central lock system button on the center console will release the trunk. (this info is in your owners manual).

Also, if you've locked the car with the key (manually or remotely) the doors can't be opened from the inside...even when you pull twice on the interior door handles. This "double-locked" feature changes slightly with the 2000-up model years. They can be opened after pressing the center console unlock button and pulling twice on the door handles. The alarm will still go off, but the doors will open.

Note: interior trunk release button won't work if trunk has been "secured separately"

All I said was the plastic key would open the door. I never said they would start the car. I have a copy of my Jeep's key without a chip that does the same.


Sent from my iPhone using BimmerApp

Originally Posted by 02BMW530

All I said was the plastic key would open the door. I never said they would start the car. I have a copy of my Jeep's key without a chip that does the same.

Yes, you did say that the plastic key would open the door...but you also said that these (plastic keys) "have no chip" and that they "only do one thing".

The last two things are what I made a reference to that were incorrect. The plastic keys DO have a transponder chip in them...and they also do more than one thing:

1. they can start the car
2. and they can manually lock/unlock every lock in the car (glovebox, trunk, door)

Letting that statement stand without clarification could confuse some people that may find it doing a search into thinking the plastic spare/wallet key would not be viable as a backup key...especially if they were led to believe that it DID not have a transponder chip in it.

I wasn't trying to bust anyone's chops...just didn't want incorrect info to go unchallenged.

Originally Posted by QSilver7

just didn't want incorrect info to go unchallenged.

I'm glad you did. I put this link into the bestlinks for future reference:

- The truth about the BMW diamond key transponder (1) and proper initializing (1) (2) and the truth about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & opening, charging, recoding, & battery replacement (1) of the new-style diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & converting the old-style 1996-2000 "square" key to a diamond key (1) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the old style keys (1) (2) & what to do if your key is locked inside your car (1) & a description of the various types of BMW "Remote", "Illuminated", "Spare/Wallet", & "Valet/Service" keys (1) (2).

Just as a suggestion, while we're talking about keys, if you do have both master keys, I'd suggest to make it a routine to swap the keys you drive with. This is only true for the 99 & later models that have the diamond key that charges itself as you drive.

In my case, I used to only use 1 key, and kept the other master key as a backup. But, I became worried when I started thinking if I didn't use the "backup" key, it may lose it's battery's charge. So, now I swap my keys so that both stay charged up.

And, to be clear, that's charged up as in working the key remote for arming/disarming your car & opening the trunk. Having a charged/discharged key doesn't affect actually using the key to start your car, only to work the remote functions.

Originally Posted by QSilver7

Yes, you did say that the plastic key would open the door...but you also said that these (plastic keys) "have no chip" and that they "only do one thing".

The last two things are what I made a reference to that were incorrect. The plastic keys DO have a transponder chip in them...and they also do more than one thing:

1. they can start the car
2. and they can manually lock/unlock every lock in the car (glovebox, trunk, door)

Letting that statement stand without clarification could confuse some people that may find it doing a search into thinking the plastic spare/wallet key would not be viable as a backup key...especially if they were led to believe that it DID not have a transponder chip in it.

I wasn't trying to bust anyone's chops...just didn't want incorrect info to go unchallenged.

Whoa. My mind is blown then. I did not know they had chips in them.




Sent from my iPhone using BimmerApp

Originally Posted by 02BMW530

I did not know they had chips in them

I don't know if we have a pic of the plastic-key chip, but here's a pic from QSilver7 himself from over in this thread of the diamond shaped key:
- Is there a "transponder" underneath the copper wire in the diamond key

Apparently the transponder in the old (square) key is a 'loose chip':
- DIY - easy way to make a brand new diamond key work in your older car (96-00)

Originally Posted by vetaldj

Hi,

Yesterday I locked my key in the trunk and I don't have spare... I called AAA and guy was not able to do anything, he called for help, another one spent additional 30 min and could not open the door either. They towed my car to dealer and surprise - they can't do it as well... I ended with order for new master key and using our public transportation for next 4 days (thanks God Honolulu has great bus system)... They all told me that 5 series is very secure so nobody can get in... Is that true or dealer decided to get some money from me?

When they pressed that button to unlock door nothing happen. Can it be some security sustem failure or it should be like that?

Thanks!

I also locked my keys in boot (trunk) when I was on a business trip. It happened in a small coastal town in South Africa & I was not able to access my spare (at home) so I called the AA (AAA) and didn't hold out much hope but had no other option.

When I called with my problem I was asked vehicle details (BMW 528i e39....etc.) and when the representative arrived he promptly pulled out a small bag that he then inserted into the gap of the boot (trunk) lid and body - when I queried this he explained that they had attended specific courses in how to gain entrance to various vehicles and over-ride their security features.

The e39 apparently has a wiring harness that runs down the driver side and is easily accesible at the trunk all he did was insert the deflated bag pump it up until a small gap had been opened (5-10mm), then he inserted a flat plastic hook and 'fished' out the wiring harness , he asked me to turn my back and cut one of the wires which he then connected to a power source and 'Hey Presto" the entire vehicle lock and alarm system disengaged!!

I was both relieved and horrified at how quick and easy this was done.

For the record, another mechanical key lock opening problem was reported today:

Originally Posted by OnceWingless

Gentleman, I hope someone can help me out.

I have a 1999 540i Touring (or sports wagon as you call it), with only a driver side lock. So no lock on the trunk, unfortunately...

Battery is dead, couldn't open the door. Searched the internet and stumbled upon this thread on how to open my car.

Initial findings: 90 deg clockwise (lock) I can turn the key. Counterclockwise 45 deg, and no way past that. Even after lubricating the lock very well with WD40 with a straw... (Yeah we got that stuff over here as well).

After further research I found this thread on this board: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=498390

And that's probably my problem as well. Last winter the interior door handle broke off. I replaced it myself (found a DIY on YouTube). And most probably the cable connecting to the interior door handle is misplaced. According to the above posting, that's why I can't turn the key 90 deg counterclockwise and unlock.

The big question: how do I get into my car without smashing a window??? Does the 540 have a connection under the car just like the 6-cyl??? Can't find it anywhere online...Car is parked curbside at the driverside, so getting under the car to have a look on that side is kinda hard...

Yup bmws security system can be a pain in the butt. Couldn't you unscrew the back seat and go into the trunk that way. It sounds like you still had access to the car

Or were u locked out with the key locked in it

Originally Posted by 3star

... Couldn't you unscrew the back seat and go into the trunk that way. ...

Unless you have the fold down rear seats (or a Touring)...no, you can't just remove the seat cushions to access the trunk. Behind the cushions is a welded piece of metal (#4) that goes from side to side & includes the rear parcel shelf and the section behind the upper cushion of the rear seeat...with only the cut-out for the ski boot:

Originally Posted by QSilver7

Behind the cushions is a welded piece of metal

Lots more on that backplate over here ...
- Rear center cushion armrest customizations (1) (2) (3) (4) & the E39 rear ski-bag arm rest pass-through retrofit DIY (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9).